Troll Hunter

Peaklander, you're absolutely brilliant. Thank you very much for this link, and yes, it certainly does look like the correct item and the LR Parts Catalogue is wrong. I'll add this to my order for the parkbrake warning bulb and mounting bracket. Mike

Having resolved my handbrake warning light issue I have another issue with the warning panel bulb holders. The 1987 Parts Catalogue, p. 726 shows Item 12 to be a bulb holder, Part No. AEU2722, number required: 13. These appear to be for the majority of warning bulbs and make contact with the thin copper sheet surfaces on the plastic of the panel. No problem so far. What I want is the bulb holder that goes in the end holes in the panel which should have a pair of contact extending from the end. I am assuming that this is Item 13, Part No. AEU2723, shown as NLA use Part No. RTC3878, number required: 1. Having bought this part, genuine LR, I find that it is virtually the same as AEU2722. It does not have the extended contacts, see photo below with the recently purchased RTC3878 on the left and the item I want on the right. Please, can anybody point me in the direction of the part I need, and a Part No. if possible? Many thanks in advance, and in anticipation of somebody having this info☺️. Mike

Thank you, all, for your responses and links. It looks as if my vehicle was never fitted with the switch although the dash warning panel has the symbol. It looks easy enough to fit so I'll go ahead and order the switch and bracket. One more question resolved and another job to do! Mike

1991 110 CSW, originally with a V8 for Middle East market. I am seeking clarification on the handbrake switch and warning light. My vehicle shows no evidence of ever having had a handbrake switch although it does have the handbrake symbol on the dash warning bulb panel. The 1987 Parts Catalogue does not show a handbrake switch except for Australian models, Part No. ADU2888L, Item 3, p. 514. My handbrake cable appears to be Item 2, p. 515. However, the Ninety, One Ten Workshop Manual, volume 2, shows both the handbrake switch and the related dash panel warning light, Section 86 p. 70 Items 56 and 40. So, my questions are: should there be a handbrake switch, and if so, how and where does it fit and what's its part number? Any info will be much appreciated, and many thanks in advance to anyone who can throw some light on this. Mike

For all the Royal links to Land Rovers, I was appalled while watching the procession from Balmoral to Edinburgh that the Queen's hearse was a Mercedes. Surely a Rolls Royce or a Jaguar Land Rover could have been used. I'm not sure about later hearses but I thought that I recognised a Toyota badge on one hearse. Perhaps someone in UK can clarify. Surely a faux pas by someone. Mike

I experienced this problem of winding all the way in so I took the plug out and welded a steel washer onto it, fitted it with a leather washer, and screwed it back in tight, but not 4ft. scaffolding pipe tight! No leaks since. Mike

OK, thank you, Peaklander. I'll just have to try it when I get my vehicle back on the road. I may come back for some clarification at that time. I'm going to order one anyway. Mike

Thank you, Peaklander, that's also my understanding of how the wastegate opens. I've read somewhere that on the 300Tdi it starts to open at about 9 psi and is fully open at 14 +psi. Perhaps somebody can confirm or correct those pressures. Is there any way that the start of opening pressure can be raised? Mike

Thank you. I understand both the purpose and how the wastegate works. What I am seeking views on is my previous question. I have also read and understand how the maximum boost pressure can be adjusted, but I am not wanting to increase this. I accept that my previous wording "explosive pressure increase" was inappropriate. What I was aiming to communicate was the rapid pressure change in the turbo system if the wastegate were to fully open very rapidly on reaching the maximum boost pressure. Mike

Do I understand that the air flow to the wastegate actuator is totally blocked off until the set pressure is reached and it then opens? This could be an explosive pressure increase! This is obviously not the case, so please explain further for those of us who are not up-to-speed. Mike

If Britpart are only a wholesaler and since they are a supplier to the UK armed forces, as appears to be the case from various comments on here, they must have access to a whole range of quality certified components. Perhaps we should keep on returning failed products so that they buy from suppliers with a credible quality assurance program. Mike

Many thanks for your thoughts, Mo. I believe that the wastegate on a 300Tdi starts to open at about 9psi boost and is fully open at 14+psi boost. I would like to delay the start of opening of the wastegate, perhaps to 11 psi boost, so that maximum torque/power is maintained for longer. One method I had considered was to shorten the spring in the wastegate actuator by adding a spacer at one end, but the fabrication of the actuator body ended that line of thought! I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to do this. Mike

I've read the thread and the write-up on the Mumby site. I don't want to increase my total boost pressure but I do want to delay the time that the wastegate starts to open. Does this bit of kit provide this facility?

His products are of such a quality that his videos could well supplement those of Britannica Restorations. The latter concentrate on specific maintenance and restoration jobs whereas Stephen's tend to concentrate on remaking specific bodywork sections to an amazing quality. Two totally different foci. Mike

I use an acetone and ATF mixture in an old polythene bottle fitted with a trigger mechanism. The label has long since gone so I don't know what it once held, but probably washing-up liquid or bathroom cleaner. No sign of any washers or gaskets failing. It gives a good jet squirt, not a spray, so I have to be pretty good with my aim! Mike

A friend just forwarded this LR article to me. The woodworking is amazing and he's not too shabby in the design department either. I hope you have the time to appreciate and enjoy it. https://www.adventure-journal.com/2022/06/its-like-a-wooden-boat-building-film-but-for-a-land-rover-camper/?mc_cid=7256ba23f0&mc_eid=3975ea81b3 Mike.

It seems that I'm lucky in that my local nut n' bolt supplier sells ordinary industrial items by weight, so a handful of 4mm bits, the smallest they stock, may cost the same as a single m12 bolt. No MOQ. Stainless, or special orders, are another thing. Mike

My 1991 CSW (LHS) had two vacuum operated doors in the heater/AC system, one in the air intake inside the right wing and the other operated a door within the ducting behind (in front of) the dash panel. There was a third vacuum motor that operated an on/off valve in the heater water system. All these are covered in the LR 1987 110 Parts Catalogue. If you need any replacements be prepared to sell at least a kidney! Mike

Thanks, western. That makes sense, and I've now modified my re-wire design accordingly. Mike

Why would the rear fog be extinguished if headlamps are on high beam? I can understand it for front fog lights but not for the rear fog lights. Mike

A variable pitch is too restrictive so they've progressed from there. They now do elasticated rules so it can show whatever dimension is required. Mike

Is it the old gremlin of a bad earth on your headlights and the current is finding a path to earth through the case of your water temperature gauge? The clue is that the gauge body cooled when the headlights were switched off. Try removing a headlamp bulb and measuring the resistance from the bulb socket earth to the battery negative post. It should be very low. Mike

This page is an extract from BS-AU7a 1983 Colour Code for Vehicle Wiring, from the British Standards Institution. I've found it very useful. https://www.mgexp.com/article/lucas-wiring-colour-guide.50 Mike

Yes, it isn't difficult to build a bath big enough for a chassis from plywood and to line it with a polyurethane sheet from your local builder's agent. Next time I need to renew my chassis I'll remember this. PS: I'm 79 now, so I don't think I''ll be doing the next rebuild! Mike

Hi, Mossberg, many thanks for such a comprehensive reply. I was expecting a couple of sentences at the most. You've got some very good results there. I should have tried electrolysis on my chassis instead of grit blasting it before galvanising. Too late now. Mike