zardos

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zardos last won the day on November 17 2015

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About zardos

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  1. challenge truck alternator.....

    I agree fit a second alternator is probably the best and cheapest route and adds redundancy. Very high output alternators are very expensive and not easily replaceable/fixable when they go wrong. I used a Gwyn Lewis second alternator kit on v8, they also do a kit for a 200tdi disco engine https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/200tdi-discovery-range-rover-classic-engine-twin-alternator-mount/ You can then fit a 100A alternator with this (for the v8 it was a standard landrover part, for the 200tdi it looks to also be a standard Land rover part)
  2. They still can leak even if you don't use them, both my sunroofs had good rubber seals but still leaked, the problem can often be the seal of the unit to the body not the seal between the glass and body. I removed both units fully and re-siliconed them to the body. I did also fill various clip holes with silicone sealant as well (less permanent than araldite ) for the same reason.
  3. Grab handle ideas needed

    or May be
  4. Flexi rubber wheel arches?

    A lot of people have used old conveyor belt for wheel arches, or strips of Kaylan (https://www.kaylan.co.uk but not cheap)
  5. Speeduino - Arduino based EFI

    Alternative with built in Bluetooth https://www.adafruit.com/product/3406 ARM Cortex M4F (with HW floating point acceleration) running at 64MHz and 32 bit And very small
  6. A long time ago I had a rs-232 jumper box, very handy. But long since lost it :-(
  7. GEMMER 6 Bolt PAS box

    Looking at parts book I see nothing about "light duty" only "lightweight" and the 6 bolt unit does weigh more or it could mean the weight feel of the steering, but it does seem that Landrover did stop using 6 bolts for some reason (may be because they were not as good?)
  8. GEMMER 6 Bolt PAS box

    The general consensus seems to suggest that the 4 bolt is more robust than the 6 bolt. But if you do want to try and repair it then the post Might help
  9. GEMMER 6 Bolt PAS box

    Solution replace the 6 bolt box with a new or reconditioned 4 bolt Box (that is what I did as 6 bolts are obsolete and no longer made which makes reconditioning more difficult where as the 4 bolts are still manufactured by Adwest) (you need to change the steering arm as well for this conversion)
  10. Just got emailed this http://www.furneauxriddall.com/acatalog/Contour-Heavy-Duty-Battery-Switch-600A-BEP_720.html#SID=1010 with 600A Continuous (or there is a 500A remote version as well)
  11. Probably the key spec for the isolator is :- Typical fault currents which can be ruptured (5ms time constant) Without Blowouts 1500A at 48V D.C. With Blowouts 2500A at 48V D.C. With Blowouts 1500A at 80V D.C. Given that Warn quote up to 500A as the max current from one of their XP motors, then with a twin motor winch that could mean having to break 1000A (Yes unlikely to ever be that high given alternator(s) supply and battery supply (though batteries usually have a high enough CCA to get there for short periods)). Also the current required is proportional to effort the winch is having to apply so the average is going to be lower. Also I have had an isolator fail because it was in a warm and dry battery box where the winch solenoids were OK, because the solenoids were in free air/swamp :-) which is better cooled than a closed battery box. This is because a lot of the current rating comes from the products ability to dissipate the heat generate by carrying large currents.
  12. Thanks, it's been a while since I looked and previously there only seem to be 100A version of that available.
  13. So most people will replace their manual backup isolators which are usually rated at 250A with solenoid versions rated at 100A and are thus more likely to get welded shut and thus stop functioning as isolators (a great safety improvement there - not)
  14. Yes the new wording in 2017 specifically excludes that setup and forces people to use less safe setups (which is bad). But up to that change in 2017 I say people compiled (If a committee makes a decision but then does not act to change the regulations then I don't expect people to have to comply with that decision until the regulations were updated). The fact that the original and current regs still use poor vague terms is still bad.
  15. I'm sorry to say that statement is not true, for many years my winches and car were all isolated by one FIA master switch and I guess most peoples setups were. The clarity on using solenoids helped this argument. As long as you powered your winch solenoids off the FIA master switch then all electric winches were isolated via one switch, as the nature of all switches are as electrical isolators. The regulations never stated the distance the isolator had to be from the battery positive terminals or the type. Adding an additional set of albright contactors as a solution is just moving the isolation point slightly closer to the battery and on most twin motor setups is lowering safety, as most people tend to only run 1 power cable to the winch contactors (usually 2) this means you are doubling the max possible load of this additional isolator (which can already be over it's rated current carrying capacity) to up to over 10 times it's rated capacity. Thus leading to possible failure of the isolator switch (usually in the non isolated position). Given problems of using under rated components I also ran backup manual isolators which had high current ratings.