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zardos

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zardos last won the day on April 14 2019

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About zardos

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    Watford

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  1. I have an older model erbauer multitool and it was one of the best tools I bought, I've used it for cutting a fair amount, but used the detail sander head a lot (so much the hook and loop started to give up around the edges, but you can buy new sanding heads). And it is still going strong.
  2. Or self lay cold tarmac to infill, which is available from DIY and builders merchants.
  3. A better design if two separate fans or powers both Kenlowe fan inputs are needed (using more standard electrical symbols) This needs a double pole triple throw switch like the Durite 0-789-62
  4. I would not use the "Two Fans, Low and High Temperature" as Fan override is only 1 fan (or slow speed in your case) as it is dangerous Move the override wire to the High Fan wire on the Kenlowe (I seem to remember it was OK to just supply +12v to double fan speed input to get double speed on the Kenlowe) I would also use a durite 0-789-62 or 0-789-10 0-789-12 0-789-13 or Carling VED2160B-00000-000 Which would give you an extra "center on" output to have the green wires circuit given +12V so "Both Fans OFF" means have a 12v buzzer to remind you fans are off like https://ww
  5. Yes I think so as well, have a simple change over switch of "auto fan" or "fan off(buzzer on)" Other wise you really need a quad throw switch (or a triple throw double pole or 2 switches) IF you did really want an override then for the safety of your engine this should ONLY be a "double speed" override. Otherwise you could override to speed 1 and the engine temp hits 98C and needs the higher speed but you have manually limited it to the lower speed and the engine will overheat (This could be done with a triple throw switch)
  6. I also seem to remember that the dual coolant sensor switches were a three position switch with the following outputs Off output 1 on output 1 and 2 on
  7. You probably want the "fan off" position to be a 12v "buzzer on" position so that you have an annoying sound to remind you that you have turned the fans off, otherwise it is likely that turn the fans off for wading and then forget to turn them back on and then your engine overheats.
  8. Given the current weather ice filled pipe can help support the pipe as well as sand.
  9. Yes hinges on left side (if the gate bottom is nearest in the picture 😉 ) but as the diagram in my first post. Also really need a router to build to cut out the half lap joints in the middle of pieces.
  10. Picture of the gate frame as an example of the design (this is similar design to my lidget garage doors
  11. So I have some classic barn style doors on my garage as this gave the maximum height (thought mine do have a top and bottom frame pieces it is possible to have a design not with there). I strengthen them up by adding a thick ply back sheet and changed the hinges to bolt through instead of screwed on. But basically these are constructed in the same fashion as a gate I built. The barn door style does have the drawback that it needs a large space in front to open. The basic design idea is Basically for the gate I made an rectangle frame using 2 x 4 treated timber with
  12. My 1950's house must be an exception then as I found out recently that I have 3 phase to the house but only currently using 1 phase. I hope that new houses now should be also cabled for 3 phase, as the drive for electric cars significantly increase the electrical demand and having 3 phase allows you to go for 11Kw or 22Kw chargers (even the base 7.5Kw takes about 32A from the usual single phase max of 80/100 Amp)
  13. This is because they need a 16A supply, while a ring main is usually 32A, taking half of that for 1 device is going to lead to you tripping the fuse quite often as all you need to do boil a kettle and run a few over devices on the same circuit and you will reach max load. Much better to have it on a separate circuit much like other high load devices (electric cooker point, immersion heater, electric shower, etc)
  14. My understanding of ODB2 Readers is that OBD2 is primarily focus on the engine management but can talk across the CAN bus to other modules, while there are standard codes for the engine, car manufacturers like to use non standard codes for a lot of stuff and they charge for access to what these non standard codes mean. Also for some of the more advanced stuff like talking the the ABS or other ECU's the reader needs to understand and send specific CAN bus messages which are again manufacturer specific and again manufacturers charge for access to this stuff. So a lot of the really cheap
  15. Also should have said there is also an interaction with length of cable which affects the voltage drop, etc As cable resistance is measured per meter. And these jumpstart packs tend to have very short leads (some not much more than the distance between battery terminals). Standard jump leads are usually many times longer to reach from one vehicle battery to another and thus have to be bigger.
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