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zardos last won the day on November 17 2015

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  1. or a more local link https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/bulbs/auction-1439286853.htm
  2. Tacho issues

    Option 7 Get a tacho known to work with the IDM signal ? Option 8 Build a raspberry Pi dash to show Turner Studio gauges ? (I seem to remember somebody has done this here already)
  3. Oil and temperature safe hose

    That's a good shout but not managed to find any yet. Again hoseworld do this http://www.hoseworld.com/acatalog/GALVANISED_STEEL_EXHAUST_HOSE.html
  4. Oil and temperature safe hose

    I found http://www.hoseworld.com/ very helpful when I wanted some more specialist hose, give them a call.
  5. Electrical help

    I like this better https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adjustable-Converter-Regulator-Step-down-Regulating/dp/B00SKP2IJ8/ as it has a nice case/heatsink
  6. Electrical help

    And I learn more about electronics by watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwJYIorz_Aw
  7. Electrical help

    Very useful find and if you want it quicker than delivery from Hong Kong, next day from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Converter-1-25-30V-Charging-Voltage-Regulator/dp/B00IR883G0/ at a slightly higher price Edited: Again as original was only a boost
  8. Plagiarising parts of others The LR is leaning back because we are laid back (relaxed) here where as forward leaning represents speed
  9. Electrical help

    Thanks for clarification of Unit, so yes Amps. I had another idea, that has lower cost and is much smaller in size but has a limited life (that life could be around 1200 engine starts, which at twice a day is over 1.5 years) This would use an A23 non rechargeable 12V battery to power the gauge during crank (they are about 50mAh in capacity so could in theory run the gauge for about 1 hour of cranking before it would need to be replaced) It would need a second diode to stop it being charged by the car battery/alternator (yes the diode is not perfect so will be a very very small charging affect on this non rechargeable battery of around 0.001mA, but I don't expect this level to damage the non rechargeable A23 battery) Since you can get 2 x A23 batteries for £1.62 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energizer-Alkaline-Batteries-LRV08-GP23A/dp/B002YOWPHG/ and a battery holder https://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-TM-Battery-Holder-Black/dp/B00DFQQWC6/ for £1.26 This keeps the cost and size down at the cost of needing the battery to be replaced at some point (I was not able to find a rechargeable version of the A23 battery) Other alternatives:- If you ignition switch has an accessory output (as somebody mentioned before) that is not powered during crank and the gauges ignition switched input is from this then during crank the gauge would actually be switched off and thus a much smaller capacitor could be used .e.g the 100uF I referenced should be enough. Open up the gauge and add a diode and capacitor in the right part of the circuit for just the memory (very very difficult to do and could damage the gauge)
  10. Electrical help

    Yes confirmation of the unit of the 0.05 number you gave would be good but as Will said the multimeter was connected in series the it is likely to be Amp's or milliamps. If it's 0.05 Amps then this gauge would be similar to my example gauge I linked previously (that was 10v minimum and 0.046Amps) The diode specs looks fine (if a little over spec'd) https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ds30135.pdf It is a 5A Schottky Diode rated to 100v, at 0.05A the voltage drop is going to be about 0.25v according to the datasheet (much better than 40% loss the useful voltage range of a 1N4148 and around the figure rtbarton suggested) So plugging 11.75v to above 10v with a 240 Ohm load (for 0.05A) for a 3 second crank to the formula HoSS quoted or entering the numbers in to a QUCS simulation suggests you would need about a 0.08 F capacitor The nearest suitable from a quick search was http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/5437003/ which is not small or cheap Lets hope the unit was milliamps not Amps as 0.05 milliamps would need a 100uF capacitor e.g http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/5194059/ at 21p Alternatives if 0.05Amps? As I first suggested http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lead-acid-rechargeable-batteries/6867253/ and diode might be better, it's around the same size as the capacitor but half the price at it has a much shallower voltage drop profile and a much higher charge storage capacity. But this still sucks You say that the boost gauge next to it shares the same feed and earth (is that gauge a similar model/manufacturer?) and it does not show the same problems? Have you swapped the feed and earth wires, may be there is a bad joint from where they must split at some point? Another solution might be to put an extra switch on the ignition feed, so the gauges are not powered when cranking and then can be manually switched on after cranking has stopped. This might solve the problem or make is so that the capacitor need to retain the memory would be cheap and small, as you have seen that it is below your measurement range. Again this sucks a bit Buy a new gauge that only has one colour of green?
  11. Air compressor basics

    From the length of the coupling it is probably 1/4" Euro adaptor (very similar to a standard PCL but shorter) As for what is best, that is a difficult question, really the connector with the largest bore would be best (like the PCL 100 series https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/couplings-adaptors/genuine-pcl-couplings/100-series-adaptors/ ) for best performance. But probably the right answer is probably the adaptor type that is mostly likely to come with the tools you buy (e.g 1/4" Euro Lidl and Aldi tend to use the 1/4" Euro adaptor - Aldi have a special on for air tools https://www.aldi.co.uk/c/specialbuys/dates/2017-09-24?q=%3Apopular&page=1 and Lidl have just had some air tools on offer ) I personally use standard PCL as that came with the compressor I have. For air lines I believe on this forum that people have used standard 15mm heating copper pipe for hard lines but I have a retractable reel (as Aldi are currently selling) that covers the whole garage and more. Oil separators/filters are to remove oil from the air as the moving parts in a compressor are usually lubricated and for applications like paint spraying or medical use it's desirable not to have oil in the air. Though I have done DIY spraying without an oil separator and it comes out OK. May be you are thinking of auto oiler and water separators more commonly used, again for low volume use you can probably get away with direct oiling in to the tools. I cannot really comment on if you need a water separator as the compressor design I use is quite different to the one you bought, but I find the amount of water in the air is very little. Which brings me on to top tips:- Drain the tank regularly to remove the water that accumulates at the bottom of the tank, this keeps the amount of water in the air low and reduces the tank rusting and reduces problems of it freezing when stored in a cold garage. Wear Ear protection or build a sound insulated box if you are going to be using it lots (or get a Hydrovane compressor like I have) because piston compressors are noisy. Also my favourite air tool is a finger sander ( like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neilsen-CT1075-Belt-Sander-Finger/dp/B002A4GWEW ), while you can get electric ones of these they tend to be much bulkier than the air version and this is great for sanding in tight spots.
  12. Electrical help

    Do you have admin / moderator powers? As us normal users can only edit a post for a short period after posting and the original post was way past that time limit when you first posted. And it's not just my posts you have failed to read properly. And yes I do edit posts to correct typo's and re-word things but usually that is straight after I've posted them as I know there is a time limit on editing.
  13. Electrical help

    Clearly you might know something about electronics, but it is also clear you have a problem reading as this is a second time you have missed reading previous posts.
  14. Electrical help

    It is true that I'm no electronics designer, but again HoSS is making guesses about the gauges design that the permanent live only powers the memory part of the gauge, it could be that it powers all of the gauge and the accessory power just acts as a switch. I go back to my initial question - what is the power consumption by measuring it, a simple multi-meter can do this, instead of guessing.
  15. Electrical help

    While Hoss might know capacitor equations he fails to take in to account that diodes are not perfect. Looking at the 1N4148 diode spec sheet (instead of using the equations) it looks like the voltage drop across this diode will be about 0.8v for the load and expected temperature when using my example of the SPA EGT gauge. If you are interested in diodes then https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/semiconductors/chpt-3/introduction-to-diodes-and-rectifiers/ gives some background plugging the numbers in of 11.2V start voltage (12v - 0.8v) 250hms (48mA @ 12v - this is a bit of an estimate as we don't know the current consumption at 11.2V) 5 second crank time and a 10.5v target voltage Gives a capacitor of around 300 mF need (about 20 times bigger than HoSS example) But then again your particular gauge might have different parameters. You could also think about the initial charge current of the capacitor being higher than the diode can handle, you could calculate this or you could work around it by initially charging the capacitor without the diode in place. (this would be a one off concern as once connected the charge in the capacitor would not go low enough to cause a high current spike after initial charge) or add a current limiting resistor. You could also do a parameter sweep DC simulation in QUCS (Quite universal Circuit Simulation http://qucs.sourceforge.net/), this is something I have just started playing with but that is probably overkill.