zardos

Have you check the swivel pin preload? This would normally get looser with wear but the test is can also highlight CV joint wear which could cause the CV to bind slightly (I had warn CV's causing heavy steering, the box and pump were fine). Land Rover says it should be about 12 - 14 lbs pull to turn the joint with the steering linkage removed. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-i-39/how-adjust-your-swivel-pin-preload-36607/ on how to test

Would it not be easier to buy a small magnet and stick it in? (might not be the right size but for example 10 of https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neodymium-Disc-Magnets-5mm-Dia-x-3mm-Thick-Grade-N50-Small-Strong-Round-Magnet/371176559801 is £2.99 )

But the simplest would be some U channel down the side that a panel would slide out of (no hinge at all), the panel would then separate to be stored elsewhere. Space required to open would be panel thickness plus a few mm Edit: You might be able do something with a telescopic gas strut like http://www.eckold.co.uk/product.php?id=76&cat=1&sub_cat=25 To life a slide mechanism as you would not get the required lift from a single stage.

You could get bi-fold kitchen cabinet doors, with one on each size the space in from would be a quarter of the width e.g. 2 of https://www.locksonline.com/H-228-fele-SF16-D-System-complete-fittings-sets-with-tracks-for-folding-doors-13885.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlY-91uOd4QIVGYXVCh0gfA8oEAQYBCABEgLMe_D_BwE or an example of vertical parallelogram door https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/blum-aventos-bi-fold-hf-mechanism-cabinet-door-lift-medium-duty-power-factor-(lf)-5350-10150-528565?vat=1&shopping=true&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlY-91uOd4QIVGYXVCh0gfA8oEAQYASABEgLWAPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

5mm is very little for any hardware at the top so any mounting would have to be on the sides (if enough space). A parallelogram type side pivot would give you the required lift but will push the door out by a minimum of half the door height before bringing it back in (so you would need a minimum of around 545mm clear in front of the door to open)

The only thing I can think of that might would is a vertical side front like https://www.richelieu.com/us/en/category/sliding-door-systems-and-rolling-ladders/replacement-parts-accessories-and-products/complete-sets-for-sliding-door/complete-set-for-mover-system/1206958/sku-891200600?fromQR=1

I tried a lot of analog CCTV systems like this one and found that they were all not worth bothering with. While you could get "better" cameras the analog transmission of the video signal and then the need to digitise it let the whole thing down. e.g. An expensive 8 camera system had enough grunt to handle 1 camera at the max resolution but as soon as you added more cameras to resolution of each camera went down. If you want CCTV of any use get an ip CCTV camera and have external IR Led's (so you don't get spiders taking up home infront of the lens)

How about a roller door, you can get them for metal filling cabinets or kitchens or garages. e.g. https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/products/sliding-folding-door-gear/tambour-door-fittings/2324e9476424f26b467d664f7362705a/

Also https://www.qeedon.com/how-to-identify-headlights-e-mark-approved/ suggests they are fake E number Matches exactly the style on the EBay pictures

https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Automotive-lighting/Headlights-219/ Suggests that they should have a lot more ECE numbers And E9 is approved in Spain

I would have thought a plasma cutter would be no use unless you intend to repaint the whole panel as you would need to grind off too much paint to get electrical contact. I would have thought a grinder with a thin cutting disc would be best, air hacksaw tend to not produce straight lines.

I have a copy of my magnecor spec I used for my 3.9 Disco 1 engine but with the coils in a non standard location (because Nige's bracket would not fit with a second alternator, so mine are mounted above the driver's side rocket cover)

Also how accurate is the gauge and sender? From https://www.vdo-gauges.com/media/instructions/TU00-0770-5104620 Temperature Sensors_short_version.pdf At 85C some of their senders have a +/- accuracy of 8.91 % And as they actually measure resistance then the wiring resistance which can be affected by various things like temperature of the wiring and other factors While expensive fluke IR temperature guns tend to have an accuracy of +/- 1C But cheaper ones are known to be +/- 2C And they also they are measuring from an area (cone) which might include colder components depending on distance measure. And to add to their inaccuracies the temperature on the inside of the thermostat housing will be higher than the outside. So overall I think you quest for this level of precision is flawed unless you do measurements in a more accurate setting outside of the car with calibrated instruments and measuring the opening and closing movement of the thermostat vs temperature.

Yeah I bought mine Saxton from Amazon, they are cheaper than direct from Saxton 🤣 Reading the reviews the titanium seem to get better reviews than the carbide for metal but I'm sure that people are probably going to fast with the multitool as Saxton site says " Please be aware that these blades will fail quicker if they overheat. Try using the Multitool on a lower speed and use the whole width of the blade without using excess pressure. Use a suitable cutting oil. This will add to the longevity of the blades. " This gets me thinking my multitool goes from 6000 to 23000 spm whereas a Reciprocating saw tend to go from 0 to 2700 spm so I would say for metal that a Reciprocating saw is less likely to overheat the blade on metal but has similar access issue to a hand hacksaw.

Fein/Multitool was the best tool I bought, used for lots of things but only had to cut nails with it, not bolts. But the right blade is essential as the standard blades are only bi-metal (for aluminium and copper) I found that https://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/fein-multimaster-bosch-makita-compatible-blades was a good place to get blades and other accessories

Given that @soutie picked his set up before they should be available on 3rd Feb, this is probably a set of old stock from a different special offer day.

So my mistake the £50 one is the NON flexible version.

Halford have the "Advanced" version of the ratchet spanners in stock with £5 off at £50 with "Life time Warranty" but not the "Pro" version at £30 near me.

I was talking Lidl for the through socket set, I think that for the price/quality/warranty combination is better than other cheap tools and good enough for a lot of DIY use.

They don't have any stock because the they are not due to come in until Sunday 3rd of Feb 😉 in the UK for Ireland https://www.lidl.ie/en/special-offers.htm?articleId=15826 Not due in until Monday 28th of Jan

And if people want a set of through sockets then Lidl is doing one on Sunday for £12.99 with 3 year warranty https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/MiddleofLidl.htm?articleId=19998

If the quality level that is acceptable to you is a £30 socket set then make it an impulse purchase and buy a under £30 12pc flexible ratchet ring to see how you get on with them instead of buying an over priced "Quality Set" 😉 I've had my two cheap sets (long and stubby) for about 5 years of light DIY use with no problem.

Sort of half way been a socket set and a ratchet ring, I prefer a ratchet ring as the pass through diameter is as big as the nut size and you can get them with flexible heads which make getting in to tight spaces easier.

I have a Lidl mains powered one, which has stood up to my light use fine. For my level of use, a cheap one with 3 year warranty is great. Note that they have a battery powered one in the middle isle at the moment, but don't know how good it is.

So may be appeal to a forum member who lives near Lincoln to go a pick one up personally or it seems that he visits events around the country and again get some forum member to get you one and then post it on to you (with tracking).