ped

i fitted a tim gauge and sender to my 110 v8 and swapped out the std gauge in my other 110 that i've put a 300 in for a generic gauge in degrees from evilbay i did do a quick test in hot water to see how it t read and all seemed about right to a digital thermometer

i run a 50a for my fishing power barrow (wheel barrow with motor axle from a disability scooter) so i'd expect you'd need at least 100a

i was talking with my old man and we have a pump and switch in the work shop as he's fitting it to his tvr as like the drag cars his set up has very little manifold vacuum i don't think a seperate reservoir tank would be needed as from more reading many just splice into the brake switch output,this i'm not sure i'd do rather having the inline vacuum switch at the end of the day it's not race car thogh but a slow plodding work horse

easy to work out just measure them and check the weight/meter

it's easy to happen and i find on the piller drill its often as you bring the drill back up the spring on our quill mill has gone and finding a spare is prooving to be hard work so extra caution is required at present

whilst checking for leaks on the 300tdi i'm fitting to my work 110 i've discovered the vac pump has a dribble running down from it and over 3 days a 50p stain on the floor(i was hoping to not have any oil leaks for at least a few months) now everywhere says they're a carp design and i've seen posts on fitting a electric vac pump from a volvo or jag which seems staight forward if wired into the brake lights but is it better to fit a vac switch and if so does anyone have a link to one that will work in the right range (on at 19 off at 22 from what i have read)

glad it wasn't more than a flesh wound ,i learnt the same lesson when i left school to work as a steel fabricator although mine needed stitches and was close to slicing a vein in my wrist i always try to hold a piece so if it does grab it doesn't get me and anything small i clamp

i'd go auto personally and if it wasn't for fitting the hydraulic winch i'd have fitted an auto to my work 110

i've looked at a few as i use a chainsaw or a log splitter all day and like to listen to planet rock for the log splitter they were viable but for use with my chainsaw helmet it mean spending big money which i couldn't justify what i used before was the std ear pieces but my phone was always full of saw chip and i kept damaging cords so i got bluetooth ear buds and they seem to work well-they do fall out now and again but are contained in the ear defender

he does have a few funny ideas tbh a roller skate weigh more than it

The one in my old mans tvr has twin skyliner turbos on I think he binned the nitrous idea

i usd to take the passenger seat out as well to get into the battery box when i drilled the new runner holes i fitted the original captive plates so it was a couple of mins work to undo them

it's been on my list to do but tbh for normal driving it is fine but if i put my trailer on it's dire up hill unless i hold it in gear and rev it's proverbials off

i run 31 10.5 15's on both my 110's if i 205's on it would be the same as the range rover i took the auto box out of but a 110 looks wierd on the 205's

just redone all the heater connections and what a difference it makes

my v8 auto has 1.2 borg warner t case it's too tall a gearing if i could find another mpi t box i'd swap it to that

the relay had a brown permament live a blue trigger and a blue output with a brownish sleeve on i found the blues didn't link to anything using a continuity tester but i did have to repair the blue feed from the light switch to th indicator switch with a new wite and also the blue feed to the fog light fuse with a new wire so i concluded that the lack of continuity was down to the original brocken blue wire in the loom and me running the new wires had if not isolated the relay trigger i've now re purposed it for my windscreen relay if i get time today i'll be doing a bit more continuity checks on the plug behind the dash but i think it'll get taped up out of the way with the other un needed wires

i had recaros from our old roveer 800 vitesse in i took the leather seats out of our old scooby when it was scrapped but not sure they'll fit due to the truck cab -a hard top would be fine my v8 has ford ka racing type seats in

Cheers I'll try without the extra holes then Once ive fitted it I'll test run it without the gearbox on i think

i've just ordered a new rear seal for my 300 with the two extra holes in the bottom as used on the TGV can the holes be drilled and tapped in situe to make use of these holes-i've not as yet pulled the gearbox and flywheel but it would be good to know before hand as i really don't want to pull the engine as at present the gearbox is the easier option

i'll try to get the full colours and pin numbers for the relay

I may look for a 200 wiring diagram to see if it shows up on that

Bladed It was the last of the td's before the 200tdi came out

The turbo diesel wiring diagram doesnt show the relays (i have 4 plus the empty red)apart from the one on the start circuit to the pdwa Blue wires are light feeds from the main light switch and go to the indicator switch and feed to fuse box for rear fogs As it's never had a relay in I'll take the wires out and heatshrink the old connectors and use it for the timer As I'm fitting a mud dash I'll repurpose any of the lives in the multi plug for feeds to the aux switches that feed the power relays for the front and rear work lights It was more being curious as to what they were for really

in the past i always used the top hose for the fan temp switch using the lower temp setting of the two output terminals,used in conjunction with a gauge that reads degrees with a manual overide i would put on if i was in low box or towing up hills for the 300 i have fitted it in the bottom hose (more for conveniance as the 300 top hose is a bit short to get the sender housing into