ped

i'll take some pics tomorrow

i have a stack of caravan windows in the yard free to a good home

you can get a weather proof box for them that allows for fitting under vehicles, i'm sure my old man did that on his camper we have a couple of 2kw ones sent from the makers to test and one will be going into my work 110 at present i'm thinking it will go in the original battery box with the hydraulic ceetop valve but until i get the chassis and all the major parts fitted i'm not 100% yet

can you not alter the seat box so you can use the disco gear stick,this was what i was going to do until i got the adapter to fit my defnder one

i used a defender lt77 top assembly with the syncro adapter and the disco r380 give them a ring and ask them if it'll work with the disco lt77 box

i used the syncro gearbox version https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/selector-shaft-adapter-quadrant/ ashcrofts one https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/selector-rail-adapter-yolk/

10mm is a bit excessive lol i often forget not all have access to 3phase welders mag drills that will cut 2.5" holes in heavy plate plasma cutters oxy torches i spent my first 10 yrs of work as a welder /fabricator making anything from railings to portal frame buildings then at a company making tankers trailers and vehicle bodies i could be accused of going belt and braces on some stuff

My I can see that in many landies i see going down the road And in the same way you can strengthen thin plate thicker materials can be lightened or smaller sections of thicker plate can be used My winch bumper on my work truck is a factory 6mm for a h14 same as supplied to utility landy except for the bumperettes they're are box section and as strong as the original but lighter If i were to fab it from scratch i could inc to the main mountings for the winch to 8mm but then skeletonize much if it reducing weight but still keeping the strength

They're not supposed to run on there side though Provided you walked away in one piece (which i hope you did) then that's the main thing

fair enough each to their own but why spend all the effort making something not strong enough in the first place stronger when you can start with something that is already strong and will do the job without all the extra faffing about,unless you just like faffing for the sake of it

if its smacked heavily at a corner it will bend the chassis tbh either way crumple zones are designed to save pedestrians not vehicle integrity

to make 3mm as strong as 8mm you'll still bend the chassis so you may as well go the 8mm route imo and not risk the mount bending when on max pull if you weld stiffeners down the chassis leg you can distribute the forces better

i'd use 8mm min for the winch to chassis and 5mm for the bumper ends no point making it flimsy and yes it'll weigh a bit more but 3mm is tissue paper

i have a colchester student boxfords are ok 3 phase machines can be picked up cheap and run from an inverter

i use the steel box roofing sheets for my log store roofs i get it from forgales who i found were the best suppliers of new panels

i used thompsons water seal on my hi cap hood which did the trick

unc i think

i think i used the rangerover twin down pipes on mine but it was a long time ago i did it i remember i had to use the rangerover solid front prop to get clearance

Lever welded on Cast steel never welds great but should do the job

I have to fit a new diff nose oil seal to my rear axle on my 110 and last time i did it i made a rough flange spanner I had a good look around the workshop and no sign of it so I've started on a new one I had an old propshaft flange that was a bit damaged so i set to and chopped it up a bit then machined it more presentable and I'll weld a lump of bar on for the handle

A co2 bottle used to be the inflating source for life rafts and i think my life jacket takes a 32g cylinder I used to use a 13ci paintball tank to blow up a dinghy when fishing if i couldn't use the landy compressor

rtv it i find genuine gaskets leak 9 times out of 10 generally use an instant gasket sealer leving the bolt a little under tight whist the rtv sets up so the last tightening compreeses it without just squishing it out everywhere

i tried a 1.2 transfer box on my 110 and it was very gutless pulling away so i founr a discovery mpi transfer box that had the qt gears but was a 1.4 ratio and much better the 200 i'm rep;lacing was getting gutless on hills and with the trailer on but that is down to compression i think

in that case i'll leave as is for the time being

can you not cut the wrong ends off a set and have the one that fits swaged back on by your local hydrulic company of make up braided stainless ones i had a leaking one on my 200tdi and when i had the mobile fitter at the yard making a hydraulic line up for my splitter i got him to nip the crimp up-worked a charm