madcanuck

I normally try not to wade into these discussions, and just be entertained by the threads! I also understand that there are so many different tastes for Defender owners, just look at the different mags and forums... However...The Defender X-tech and the "Yachting Defender" by Startech as reported in the Feb. 2011 LRW...I'm just wondering, Are designers taking the tiddle in 2011 or what?? Maybe there could be Country Garden, Horse Stable, Gourmet Kitchen! Personally, I'd be in for a "Bike Enthusiast" or "Ski Enthusiast" version...LOL Pretty sure I could figure it out on m own tho' without all the bling and plenty of practicality!! So, it all comes down to personal taste...if you like it...buy and none of us have a right to judge anyone by their choices

Happy New Year, As 2011, rolls in I'd like to thank everyone on this forum, for all the useful information a newbie Land Rover Owner like myself gets from here, not to mention entertainment! A donation will go a long way to keeping this fantastic forum going (plus I'm not done my restoration, so keep asking and answering questions ) Have a great year 1-1-11 seems to me like a pretty great combination to start the year! Cheers,

Hi Ralph, Fell off the face of the earth with work...put my project on hold, moving along really well now, pretty excite, xbrake arrived, have the headers ceramic coated,wiring looms re-worked, just waiting for the remainder of the gaskets for the engine and it goes in, bulkhead goes for sandblasting and paint on Sun. Seats should be here mid jan...barring anymore snow in europe...LOL I see you're busy as ever with you're postings on here! I imagine everyone is volunteering their time doing recovery!!! Thanks gents...I'm thinking of a system like we use in canada, and my understanding is that it is headlights only,come on with power applied, vehicle in gear, ebrake/park brake on, headlights are off...unless the light switch has all lights on...does that make any sense at all? Cheers, Tracy

Good Day All, Does anyone have an idea how to wire the headlights to daytime running lights? A wiring diagram would be great if possible. Cheers, Tracy

Thanks,

Mudstuff has done a great rear door card, I hope they can eventually do some other cards as well, although I suspect they wont be covering the older models!

Thanks Ralph, For some reason (inexperience) I didn't think those cards would work, they looked quite different from mine, only the pull handles are different. Will re-visit them as an option once I'm back in Abu Dhabi! On a totally different note, are there any of the big shows/swap meets on in late July/early Aug? I'm thinking of stopping in on my way back to Canada! Cheers, Tracy

I have a 85 Dbl cab, with old style round lock buttons and lever door handles. It appears impossible to find the door cards for this version, it seems there are some good after market ones for the flat style lock button, is it possible to convert the door lock mech. over or do I have to replace the doors? Cheers, Tracy

Does anybody know if the new style Puma front seats will fit onto a 1985 110 seat box, or is there a fitment issue. Cheers, Tracy

Real Newbie question here, I have a the wiring harness out of my V8, and I'm wondering if it's worth, going the route of electronic ignition vs the points type. Is the overall cost worth the ease of maintenance. As the vehicle will sit for 6 weeks at a time while I'm away at work, will the points type require more attention? Cheers, Tracy

Thanks Ralph, It's a 1985 110, It has the long red upper spring!

Good Evening, I'm re-assembling my rear drum brakes, and I've run into some real problems, as follows, hopefully someone can make some recommendations, I've replaced the cylinders (new) and pads. The adjusters were cleaned and re-assembled as they were removed (according to pics I had taken). The new pads appear to be the same as the old ones, shape, spring points, etc. My problem is this, the upper red spring will not fit from the inside, it sits over the adjusters, so, interference. When I put the spring (upper red) on from the outboard side the shoes are not very rigid. For what it's worth, the adjusters were seized, and not contacting the shoes before I had disassembled everything. Is there supposed to be a stud of some sort for the adjusters to contact the shoe? I tried following the sevice manual, however, it appears to be a much easier task than I've crerated. Any ideas what might be the problem would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Tracy

Ralph, Thanks for the info, in the info I have, NRC4772 is A type 80 276mm, is that the stroke length of the shaft. This clearly shows my inexperience with rebuilds/Land Rovers. The STC 442 link shows std stock for NAS veh, would that not include V8, as well then? Cheers, Tracy

Could someone please help with some information, I recently bought a brake servo unit from a local parts supplier here in the UAE, my parts listing shows STC 442 and NRC 4772 (Bearmach), what I came home with is STC 1816. The unit itself is smaller than the original. I have no cross reference anywhere for this part #. My question is can I use it? 85 110 VIN BA221715, Rear Drum, non ABS Thanks Tracy

Update, I found a coupy of the 90/110 service manual that I downloaded and it had the complete installation for the dual tank in it, makes a more sense, shows switch, filter, solenoid and fuel line routing much clearer. It also has all the torque's for the suspension mounts that I was looking for...very valuable information. I understand that there is a recommend change in the overhaul of the front swivels, so will have to find the thread for that again...Thanks again for all the help from everyone, when the rebuild is done I'll post some pics! Cheers, Tracy

Diff, Jim, Thanks for all the information (part #'s, pics, advice) my truck originally started life as a 1985 110 CSW V8 LHD, it was modified to a Dbl cab approx 8yrs ago by the original owner in Saudi Arabia. I will try and figure out the color codes for the harness, see if the wiring is in there, I just cleaned it all up and re-wrapped it all, lots of fun. My wiring diagrams didn't have anything for this type of system, fortunately I can probably make something up from all the help gleaned from you very helpful folks! Cheers,

I've had a read through some of the previous threads regarding a dual tank< I'm considering this type of installation for my 110 Dbl cab. The attached pic came from my IPC, I've been able to source all the parts, does anybody have any experience with this type of set-up? 110_Dual_Fuel_Tank.pdf Does this system have a electrical sw somewhere for the solenoid selection or does it run off the main tank float sw, or, are there relays required to control the solenoid and indication? If LR doesn't have an electrical circuit, worst case scenario, I can always design the circuit myself. (Unless of course Matt hasn't come up with one already:)) Is the fuel Qty indication based on totalizing the 2 tanks or is there a sel. sw for total and tank sel? Is there a separate fuel filler required? I know this sounds a bit amaturish, my total rebuild is progressing and I would consider installing this before the cab goes back on. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Tracy

So, instead of having both axles and front swivels done by a shop, I thought I'd give it a go myself since everything else is in bits... I have all the seals, gaskets, one shot (x2), grease, upper and lower bearings, etc. Played with the shims, think I have it! Is it worth putting the rubber gaiters over the balls Do the mating flanges require a blue hylomar jointing compound when assembling the axles? Any tips before I do tighten everything down would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tracy

Jim, Lars, Thanks for the excellent info, I'll definitely be using relays I don't like the idea of that much currnt going through the switch. If I can't get the proper relays over here I'll give you a shout! I take a look at my wiring diagrams, again and then draw something up! Cheers, Tracy

Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket kit available for daytime running lights. I was thinking of coming up with a circuit, however, this route would be much easier. I have an 85 110 3.5. Cheers, Tracy

In addition to the above process (using aluminum sacrficial washers) you can put something similar to LPS3 on the fasenter threads, and if nycote is unavailable (excellent product) coat with 2 part epoxy adhesive (5 min/2 ton) or sikaflex (marine grade) sealant. I'm re-assembling my 110 right now and that is how I've done all my grounding/bonding points, aluminum washer between chassis and terminal, another aluminum washer fastener. I used LPS 3 on the fastener threads. Ground/Bond points were then covered with PRC, another aviation grade sealant. HTH Cheers, Tracy

I'll wade in here with my experience with truck bed coatings, I'm from Canada, I've had 2 pick-ups with it done (both used in the oil field), All of the trucks at the previous company had the boxes done from new. I also did my Jeep Wrangler's interior with it, was the best upgrade to the vehicle next to suspension. I did the jeep myself and it was way too much labour to prep (removing seats roll cage, etc). For what it's worth I'll never apply it myself again, too much clean up and you need proper ventilation (polyurethane). Leave it to the pros. Best part was using a hose to clean it out! Just pull plugs in the floor and spray. They are durable (once cured) and you just hose it out. Also, if chemicals or paint are spilt on it you can use paint thinner, varsol, lacquer thinner, MEK, etc for cleaning it. One thing that is very important is that you treat any corrosion correctly, and sealing any joints with something like sikaflex or prc, before having it applied . I have a 110 dbl cab conversion, the box is finished in chequer plate, which I will be shipping back to Canada this year. I'm planning to get it coated, while I was back home, the local shop that does it, explained a few things for me regarding chequer plate, it will most likely need the shiny surface removed (acid etching) to create a suitable surface, and, lastly they will add some pumice to the mix as it becomes "VERY" slippery on chequer plate when it's wet. It's a bit slippery anyway, when wet but I would highly reccomend it. Cheers, Tracy

Thanks DJ, Jim. They both have 2 red marks on them so I should be ok, I'm mating them with OME shocks. Cheers, T On another note, did 85 110's come with the front anti-sway bar? Were they axle or model year specific? T

Thanks Gromit, The new springs are black with red marks on them, tried to figure what rating they are using the land rover chart, that didn't work so I suspect they are after market. T

I'm about to start re-assembling my vehicle (85 110 dbl cab), when i was stripping it I found out that the levelling unit was not installed to the rear a-frame on the axle (not sure if that's the right name). The springs were replaced all around by the previous owner. Do I need it on the vehicle? Is it possible to remove it with uprated springs? If it's not installed how does it affect the vehicle, load carrying, handling, etc? Any advice or info would be great, Thanks, Tracy