tonycan

Thank you all for the tips and the links. Today I worked on my Turn indicator lights. I connected the purple supply terminal to the left and right indicator terminals and as described the left or right indicator lights stayed on without flashing. I tried to connect purple terminal to white with green trace flasher terminal and nothing happened. Am I supposed to attach purple terminal to left or right terminals at the same time as the purple to flasher terminal? Can I rule out hazard switch as being defective? Thanks everyone.

Hello. My TD5 which drowned last year was up and running after I finally replaced my ECU a second time. I have been using it for about 9 months now. Last month the turn lights and the the hazard lights went out. After a couple of days the hazard light came on for a few seconds then died out again. It's been a month since. I read somewhere that the hazard lights are connected to a relay. If so, it might be the relay but I can't seem to find it's location. Of course it could also be the hazard switch. But because of my car's flooding it could be grounded wires. Can anyone offer a suggestion which repair I should try first? Thanks, Tony

This was a very interesting read. So glad that you got your td5 running. I was struggling with my td5 last year also ever since it went under up to the roof for 12 hours in the big flood in Manila. I tried everything until I finally found out that the used ECU I ordered on ebay was defective and all it needed was a brand new ECU I bought from Singapore. I also sought help from Porny but he wasn't online around that time. Cheers!

Thanks for the replies and the link guys. Yes, I have a 2004 Defender TD5. Will try to get in touch with Porny.

Hello. My TD5 which drowned in the flood last September is running smoothly after I installed a brand new ECU. However, when I try to accelerate pass 120 kph the engine will refuse to go faster beyond this speed. I was wondering if there are some ECUs that have speed limiters on them. The engine will run smoothly until 119 kph and will sort of stall at 120 kph. If it is the case that there is a speed limiter can this be reprogrammed to disable the speed limiter. Also, the computer reported some faults. It says that there is partial grounding in Injectors 1,2,4,5. The engine will start with one-click and will run smoothly. I have no reason to believe that the injectors are malfunctioning aside from the fact that the engine will stall consistently at 120 kph. Also, as far as I know my radiator fan is belt driven but there is a section in the Vehicle Explorer 1.26 that says that TD5 radiator fan is enabled. Could it be that the ECU I got is meant for a Disco? Another issue I have is that my engine temp gauge will read at less than 1/2 upon starting the engine in the morning and as the engine heats-up the gauge will go all the way to the left reading cold. I don't believe the terminals could have inverted themselves. I haven't changed my temp gauge and so it could be defective from the flood. Thank you once again for any input.

Thank you to everyone for all the help and advise during my defenders' darkest hours. TD5 up and running and yesterday the shop informed me that my PUMA fired up after they cleaned all contacts. Water really dulls the electrical connections. It took 4 months but now its time to bring the Defenders up to speed. :lol:

Thanks for the "words of encouragement" guys Time to roll-up the sleeves.

Hi. It;s not the fuse. I just checked now and the gauges were working again. Is there any reason both gauges will not work at the same time?

Hello, my TD5 was flooded last September. After replacing ECU and 10AS module the engine would start intermittently. After checking and cleaning ECU connector I was finally able to get the engine to run continuously, however, I noticed today that both my fuel gauge and speedometer have stopped working. They were fine yesterday and today they're dead. I'm sure they are faulty after being flooded but I was wondering why both at the same time and if they are connected to the ECU also and if its possible that one of the connectors may be loose failing to send a signal to gauges.Or if there is another area I should check for a loose connection. Thanks.

Hi Matt, Thanks for the tip about the connector leads. Although I haven't gotten my puma to start I was able to get my TD5 to start. I went to my TD5's ECU connector and folded a small piece of fine sandpaper and inserted it into each connector. Although I couldn't really sand thoroughly I was able to get the insides sanded a bit. I then crimped ever so slightly each connector and made sure they were all fully extended before inserting the connector. Did this to both the red and black ECU connectors. Started the engine and it fire! Test drove it around and it didn't falter. Will continue to drive it today. Keeping my fingers crossed. Hopefully I won't need the new ECU I ordered. I'll have a spare one then,

Thanks for the advise Matt, I have the same problem on my TD5. There is a loose connection that prevents the fuel pump and glow plug from getting current sometimes and that may be the problem. I ordered a new ECU but I'm also afraid that the pins in the connector might be the problem. I haven't figured out how to expose the pins but I'll give it a try today.

Just spoke to service guy. There is white smoke when cranking the engine but the problem is the current reaching the injectors is intermittent. They applied a tester to the connector leading to the injectors and found that the current is not constant leading them to believe that there there must be corrosion deep in the wire harness of a loose wire. They still have to check the wires one by one.

Hi Matt, I was just quoting the service guy. I was wondering about that too. He also did mention there was white smoke. I'll have to have a talk with him this morning. I'll update you later. Thanks for the help. Tony

Hi, sorry to say but still no luck firing-up my puma. According to service they checked all engine sensors and all are fine except for a faulty crank position sensor. They swapped a crank position sensor from their demo unit but still could not get a pulse from the injectors. They would've brought down dash to check all wires one by one and all relays and fuses. Will update.

Hi, just an update. They took out ECU, instrument pack and security module of demo unit to swap onto my puma, engine still did not start. As a thought (in order to check they're ECU programming of my ECU) they decided to swap my set onto the demo unit and the demo unit started. (good news) I guess this means that my ECU even after being submerged for 12 hours most likely did not get damaged. They say the problem may be in the crank sensor. According to them they have coordinated with LR tech support in the UK but it seems the UK is confused as to how to diagnose the problem. DO you guys think that I should try swapping all 4 injectors?

Hello, I just spoke to my service adviser from the local LR dealer and mentioned your suggestions. They swapped my injector with another injector and the pressure with both injectors was the same basically ruling out the injector as a problem. When they crank the engine there is white smoke coming out of the exhaust which means that fuel is reaching the cylinders. They hare arranging for an instrument pack, security module and ECU swap today. Hope it starts. Will let you guys know. Thanks.

Thank you both. I also doubt that the ecu would have made it but I can't understand there's no fault code given. Thank you for the suggestions. I will let the dealership know come monday. Thanks.

Hi, this is a continuation to my flooded Puma engine. I replaced security module and instrument pack but did not replace ECU because according to dealership the ECU was sealed. Service cranked the engine and the engine would TURN THREE TIMES but would not fire-up. They thought that maybe engine was immobilized so they set the engine to NAS specs. The engine would then crank CONTINUOUSLY but still would not fire-up. They can't figure out why the engine will not fire-up. They've connected the engine ECU to their diagnostic computer but according to them NO FAULT is found. I'm thinking the ECU might have been affected after being submerged for 12 hours even if it seems sealed. I've asked them to borrow a 10as security module, an instrument pack and an engine ECU from another unit and install in my Puma to see if the problem is ECU related. I'd like to ask if anyone can offer any advise regarding my Puma's refusal to start. Thank you.

Thanks Simon. I will check out the lugs tomorrow. Might be worth checking on all the lugs inside the ECU bay.

Thanks. Checked all the bolts and screws and they are all tight. Will try out a new ECU when it gets in.

Hi, I still haven't got my TD5 problem solved. For a while my TD5 would start intermittently but for the past week it will turn but not start. The engine light and the glow plug heater light no longer light-up when I switch-on the engine. Before the lights would light up when I jiggled wires in the ECU compartment but it no longer works now. Before I go off and buy a new ECU I'd like to find out if anyone could tell me if the engine light and the glow plug heater lights are controlled by the ECU? The fuel pump also does not tun when I switch the engine on. Many thanks.

Nope, sorry. My troubles have not been fixed. Today my TD5 started and died and then refused to start again. The engine will turn but will not fire. I opened up ECU compartment and it seemed that jiggling multiple parts around the area would make the engine light light-up and other times no response. I can't get a consistent loose or ok connection. I'm stumped and out of patience. I just placed an order for a new ECU from Singapore. I hope it is the problem. Serves me right for ordering a second hand ECU on eBay. I used the TD5 the whole day yesterday and it worked fine. This morning it was back to the same problem. I know there's a loose connection somewhere but it eludes me completely. I figure the engine was under water for 10 hours and that killed the original ECU. Replaced with a re-conditioned ECU and now the engine will start intermittently. I'm sure its a loose connection somewhere.

Just wanted to give an update. My troubles appear to have been fixed and the problem was a faulty connector to the ECU. It seems that the rubber gasket that seals the male and female connectors of the TD5 ECU was misaligned and was not allowing the connector to be fully inserted, hence the intermittent starting. All fixed now. Now I need to replace my speedometer, fuel and clock gauges.

Hi, can anyone give me contact details of a reasonably priced parts supplier in the UK? I need to order a TD5 ecu and some gauges and have it shipped over to the philippines. Thanks for any info.

After a week and a half of trying to find something loose I've given up. Am now about to order a new ECU for my TD5. Can I purchase a new ECU and pair it with my old 10AS security module? My central door locks work so I guess that means that the 10AS is receiving the signal from FOB.