Landy4ducks

Would you consider BERU or DELPHI to be the quality Glow plugs - I have been looking around since this post and there is a wide price range for ETC8847. (I have a Disco 200tdi in my 90)

I have been looking at this web site for better quality night cameras with Infra-red. The CMOS cameras could be a little weak for night viewing. see this page. http://www.parkingcameras.com/store/pages.php?pageid=11 I am looking at this kit from this company, its not cheap at £120, but the night images look very good: http://www.parkingcameras.com/store/product.php?productid=51&cat=12&page=1 Has anyone used this company before

thanks CwazyWabbit . Thanks Western

Been checking over my 1986 LR90 for squeaking and clunking noises and found the rear UJ needs replacing. Whilst inspecting that was also told about a Sacrificial Drive Flange on the wheels - checked the front and you can see some play when rotating the prop (axle is jacked up). Question? Is this the same as the Driving Member or Drive Flange? Been checking through Microcat and cant find any reference to Sacrificial flange. (screen picture attached)

Thanks for all your help

I have a 1985 LR90 - In the handbook there is a diagram of the Panel switches - Diagram number ST019. I need to replace the Hazard Warning Switch - MOT coming up. Does anyone know the part number? I have been searching around and found ASU1009 on the LRSERIES website - but no picture to check. Also, the Panel Interior Light switch plays up sometime - Does anyone have part number for that? I did check the Microcat spares site but these are 1987 onwards.

No side indicators on my 1985 90 either - can't be sure but the bulkhead may be off a later defender as it has a single central windscreen washer. I replaced the bulkead on mine from a 2002 landy - this also had the single central washer rather than the 2 on the original

Thanks guys for the replies - I have done some more research in the web - it could be the Voltage regulator? As the Alternator was only purchase at Christmas - part STC234, I have gone back to the supplier to get a new regulator under warranty. Just checked my Invoice - guess what?? yes, its a Britpart - that's a case of you get what you pay for!

Does anyone know if there is range of voltages that are correct for charging the battery. I was told that anything over 14,7V means that there is a problem. I checked my battery today after not use my 90 for a week and it was 12.8V on my meter. That's about right as far as I was told. After starting engine and a good rev, I check the voltage again - this time is was 15.65V put on head lights - dropped to 15.42 put on main beam + 2 linked spot lights - dropped to 13.90V Is this about right?

Thanks Bogmonster will do some checking

I have got a similar problem on the Disco Alloys on my 90 - the nuts are corroding making it difficult to get them off. - Any one know the part number for alloy wheel nuts without the chrome caps?

Thanks to all - and now that I have the thread sizes, I think I will go for the TIM gauges as they com complete with senders and a variety of adaptors. I have got the Raptor 4 gauge pod and will fit oil pressure, oil temp, Rev counter. Any good ideas for the 4th gauge?. I have read posts about a turbo boost but not sure how this works. Does it just measure the turbo pressure or does it boost it?

I do not have any oil pressure or temp gauges fitted on the Disco 200TDI fitted to my 1985 LR90. I have seen the earlier posts with a great diagram to fit an adapter, banjo and sender. My question is - can you fit any type of electrical gauge that will read from PRC4372 temp sender and PRC4043 pressure sender. The LR brand gauges are very expensive. I have looked at VDO and TIM gauges, both a lot cheaper than LR but am not sure if they would work with the LR senders. Any help or guidance would be welcomed by any one who has already fitted them. PS. - thinking of mounting them in a Raptor pod that fits in the ashtray recess.

Help need to diagnose the problem with excessive vibrations of the Alternator when engine is idling. The Link adjuster bracket has already sheared and been replaced by a similar bracket I got from the scrap yard. The original bottom mounting bolt has also sheared as has the new replacement bolt. I think the bearings may have gone, so my thoughts was to replace the Alternator with a new one - Western advised part number STC234, I can get a new replacement for £47.99 ex vat. Do you think I need to get new pulley and fan at the same time? and is my thinking correct as to the cause? I have been checking the parts drawing number page 258 for new fixing bolts - but the length of the bolts do not match - any ideas picture added of bottom fixing Alternator engine mount fixing.pdf

Thanks Western - I'll use the LRSeries site for purchase

The alternator on the Discovery 200Tdi engine in my 1985 LR90 is vibrating like crazy when the idling - the Adjuster bracket has already sheared and been replaced and now the replacement bottom mounting bolt has sheared - I think the pulley bearings have had it? How do I know what Alternator is fitted? - I can only make out Lucas on the housing. Been checking around and Lucas Alternators A127 came in a few amp ratings. 55amp / 65amp /70amp also left hand and right hand I have searched the web and found that the 70amp have stud terminals and both the 55 & 65amp have spade terminals. So that narrows it down to either 55 or 65amp My engine number 12L28233A and the alternator is fitted on the right hand side of the engine looking from the front. The adjuster link bolt in then on the left - see picture attached. Any ideas on a part number?

Thanks guys - the mechanic at the garage did say i could have a good look, just wanted to know if there could have been an indication before the clutch pedal went soft.

yes, they called to say that there looked to be something else wrong other than the slave cylinder

They have disconnected the gear box - I live near W-S-M

Had a problem this weekend with clutch pedal becoming soft and not being able to change gear - got the landy (1985 swb90 with Disco 200tdi) to my local garage on the Sunday night, (I work away from home all week) Thinking it was the slave cylinder, I asked the garage to replace it and do the Master cylinder at same time. Once they started to do work, I got a call to say that release bearing must have caused problems as the flywheel has suffered a lot a heat and is distorted, they recommend that it should be replaced and I need a new clutch as well. Alternative option was to see if they could regrind the flywheel, but no guarantees on that option Question to you tech guys - does this make sense and would there have been any signs that the flywheel was over heating?

I am trying to replace the Earth strap from the Engine to chassis. Searches have not been very succesfull - the nearest part number I have found is RRC8681 body to chassis or PRC4138 battery earth. I did find another part number PRC5538 but the description on Craddocks web site is rather vague. A search on LRSERIES came up blank. My engine is a 200TDi from a Discovery (12L number). Help please

Paddy - you could try the Vehicle check link at Tanya Batteries - select your model & year and it will give you a list of batteries suitable for your landy. You don't have to buy from them, but at least will know whats suitable: Click on this link http://www.tayna.co.uk/fitments/18/Car-Fitment-Guide-UPDATED.html

Thanks - Overalls on and getting down to it now as tonite is another cold one.

This fast parts catalogue may help - page 38 shows the steering parts break down - you could trace your part in the diagram. Defender_fastparts.pdf

just to break in Cypermethrin, where and what is the "earthing stamp" that you fitted, I have starting probs from time to time and check battery etc. but not sure what you have done, can you post up something for us newbies