pitmole

The Red winch adapter has a full circle of bolt holes, so you can virtually mount it at any angle you want.

Well yes, I was trying to suggest something in line with the OP's original budget choice! But yes, LS would certainly do it.

Sell the lexus v8, then go out and buy a rotten mercedes ml v8 4.3 or 5 ltr with a 6 speed auto, fit red winch's ml to lt230 adaptor and off you go!

Hi Simon and all, I have had an r-tech 200 acdc tig for about 6 years now and it has been brilliant, welding 0.8 aluminium tube and 10mm aluminium plates. It works fine on a 13amp plug on the lower settings and I feed it 32 amps for the big stuff. mine is the older, manual set inverter, but I love it. When its resting it lives under a cover to keep the grinding dust out of it, that is the thing that kills circuit boards in welders. Have bought the 250 mig and plasma 30 and 50 since then and never a problem with anything, I know all about people saying "ah its all from china really" but wise up, how many components these days in anything aren't sourced from there, its the support/aftersales that matters. Nick

If your motor is a crank driven oil pump serpentine type, which looking at those fittings I suspect it is, then just blank the ports off with either m18 or m20 plugs. The "special fitting" is a way of diverting the flow when the cooler is fitted, groove at the end normally is fitted with o ring which seals inner port in case.

If your motor is a crank driven oil pump serpentine type, which looking at those fittings I suspect it is, then just blank the ports off with either m18 or m20 plugs. The "special fitting" is a way of diverting the flow when the cooler is fitted, groove at the end normally is fitted with o ring which seals inner port in case.

Hi, you just need the mount plate with the lobster backed pipe out one side and a straight pipe with small bore branch the other?

You might be able to get a hydraulic hose banjo end in the space a little easier, if this was on the end of a short hose tucked up out of the way and a blank cap screwed on the end then you have a built in no spill drain tube too!

vapormatic or sparex agri supplies or the like, will have some pto tubes,yokes etc in lots of different sizes, 1000rpm version should be fine for limited time winching http://www.vapormatic.com/catalogue/catalogue.ashx?prmPageDetail=50&prmSource=013140&prmOem=PT&prmSearchType=0&prmAreaId=410&prmMachineId=5437&prmMajorId=6103&prmTitle=PTO%20Italian%20Type,%20Outer%20yoke&prmUser=&prmVapLang=ENGLISH&prmCutDown=True

Will second Longlandy's rec for r-tech, have had one of their ac/dc 201 sets for 2 years and it has been excellent, was welding a set of 2stroke cases last night and wondered how I had got along without having the ability to tig ali!

Hi Bish, Tracytools.com worth a quick look, more in stock than on their website too. I use them a fair bit.

Richard, we use 10,000's of them at work, on all sorts of pipes and pressures up to 50 bar. I will be in Minchinhampton sunday and can bring you a load up if you can wait till then.

Daan is bang on there,given that you want to run in the plop and keep a nice expensive motor alive, then spend the time and money on fitting a nice big rad with lots of overcapacity, give it good ducted airflow and lots of fan so it has the airflow to stay cool, maybe, fit an oil to water heat exchanger and oil stat so the oil warms nicely as well as stays cool, and then, as long as your rad has overcapacity, you can fit a stat to run it at any temp you want. Nicked this, but it simply shows where your fuel energy is going, and that the radiator has to be in it's way, as powerful as your engine! Energy Losses (Heat Balance) Only a part of the energy supplied to the engine is transformed into useful work whereas the rest is either wasted or utilized for heating purposes. The main part of the unutilized heat goes to exhaust gases and to the cooling system. In order to draw a heat balance chart for an engine, tests should be conducted to give the following information. (i) Energy supplied to an engine which is known from the heating value of the fuel consumed. (ii) Heat converted to useful work. {Hi) Heat carried away by cooling water. (iv) Heat carried away by exhaust gases. (v) Heat unaccounted for (radiation etc.) It is expected that the heat balance results of CI engine must differ from that of petrol engine due to much higher compression and expansion ratios in the former. The higher compression ratio results in lower exhaust gas temperature and also lower flame temperature that in turn causes lower heat loss to the cylinder walls in CI engines. The utilization of the fuel’s heat energy is also higher in CI engines because of its higher compression ratio. Although the actual value of heat utilization is dependent upon a number of factors like compression ratio, engine load, fuel injection quantity, timing etc. some average figures for heat Spark Ignition Engine Heat converted to useful work (i.p.) 25 to 32% Heat carried away by cooling water 33 to 30% Heat carried away by exhaust gases 35 to 28% Heat/noise unaccounted for 7 to 10% Total (= Energy supplied) 100%

Oh dear, there is some conflicting information here, TSD and G&T are both right in what they have said. in a correctly spec and functioning cooling system, the radiator is sized to remove all the heat the engine can produce, in it's harshest working environment, ie towing 3.5 tons at a snails pace thru the desert. The rest of the cooling system, fans, ducts, pumps, fan temp switches all help to produce the correct water/ airflow but it's down to the rad ultimately, but only if the rad is big enough for the worst amount of heat at the lowest airflow You then put in a thermostat, so that when the situation changes to -10, 70mph along the motorway, the engine is not over cooled. the value of the stat will be the running temp, thats what stats do! might be slightly different than the value written on it, but it will hold that temp. Marine engines have unlimited cooling, run one with no stat in it's heat exchanger and it will never warm up, fit a 88 stat and it will hold that exactly for days. If you have a system with a 82 stat and it runs at 85 normally but 95 when you cane it, then it is not cooling properly ie think of blocked radiators, worn pumps etc. Warm up times etc are not what the stat value is designed to do, thats down to internal waterflow and pre stat opening bleeds.

Think of things in a very simple way. Engine is a heat source producing x number of kw at max rpm Rad is a heat sink that will lose a y number of kw for a given airflow Thermostat is a balance control in the middle As long as rads y kw are bigger than engines x kw then the system will always run cool, thermostat will then control how cool. If rads y kw rating is smaller than engines x kw, ie blocked, wrong sort, other cooling prob, then it WILL overheat, whatever thermostat you have. Thermostat will stay closed until engine has reached it's temp and then allow cooling flow to start Lots of other issues as others have said, cav,flow restriction,airlocks etc, but I did say simple way!