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shauniedawn

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Everything posted by shauniedawn

  1. Hi - it's 6 years or so since I did this so can't remember much of it now! However, I've checked the PDF Land Rover manual I have and it describes the method. If you PM me you email address then I'll happily forward it on. Shaun
  2. I remember that old thread - I bought one after rreading it. Here's mine in my 200 TDI engined Defender: Shaun
  3. Hiya. In addition to what you've found, I'd put my money on the splines on the end of the mainshaft and the transfer box input gear splines both being worn out. Shaun
  4. No - I'm not confused. I know exactly what I was describing. And the symptoms were identical - but occurred at a different speed.
  5. I had this happen to me on a Disco. You used to think the dash was going to fall out the vibration was so violent - happened at about 50 to 55mph. The long story shortened is that the new pro-comp steering damper that I'd fitted was the problem. It had the smallest amount of 'slack' before it started to offer resistance. This was the cause. I had trouble convincing the supplier that this was the cause, but they believed me in the end when I returned it and they did in turn to the manufacturer who confirmed it was defective. I repalced it with a standard one and the death wobble was cured. I'd changed lots of things at the same time as the damper, so it took a good while to diagnose. Shaun
  6. Hiya - see this thread for a solution, My link I just bought them from a local bearing supplier. I'm sure they'll be available from someone llike these if you have a look: Simply bearings Shaun
  7. Hiya. Put my 90 back on the road today after the gearbox overhaul and lots of little jobs over the winter (only got the car in August last year). Anyway, preparing for my journey for it's MOT last night I thought I'd best check the tyre pressures. Couldn't find any reference to my tyre sizes in any of the books I have though. So thought you may be able to help. It's fitted with 235/80/16 tyres. I've gone with 27lbs front, and 34lbs rear. Anyone have an alternative suggestion? It's an '89 90, with a 200TDI fitted - if you feel that has any bearing on it? Cheers, Shaun.
  8. Got mine Thursday - thanks for the post. Shaun
  9. Don't forget the tech archive.... This is just what you need to have a look at: LT77 rebuild Shaun
  10. Hi, I've tried searching, but can't find any reference to this. It may be as simple as 'prise the knob off the shaft', but mine doesn't seem to want to move. I didn't want to break it, so thought I'd ask first. Cheers, Shaun.
  11. Talk about can't see the wood for the trees! That is so bl**dy obvious! And would've saved me plenty of time. I think I was so focussed on removing the flange as I think (memory failure!) that is the only way to do it on a Disco pump. Good call mate. Shaun.
  12. Tested mine today before fitting. Worked a treat on the switch settings the same as you rawsondsr. Here are a couple of photo's. Shaun
  13. Hiya. Firstly, sorry. I have no expereince in dismantling a 300 TDI, so I can't comment on your hole. However, a bit of plastic metal would easily fill it and stop any water ingress if that's your worry. Thinking about it, a dolop of silicone sealant would probably do the job too. That would be a bit more of a bodge though. If you have access to either MIG or AC TIG, please ignore both of the above! Shaun.
  14. I've a 1958(?) 6 1/2" Colchester Student round head. It's a gap bed and 24" between centres. Firstly - I'm not an officiado on lathes! But will try. More questions first. 1. How much space do you have? 2. What do you think you're going to use it for? 3. Do you have 3 phase? 4. What's your budget? PM me if you prefer. Shaun.
  15. I couldn't agree more. I couldn't survive without mine. I've had this one for coming up 18 years, and it's been one of the best investments. It's the fourth one I've had. My fist was a Myford. But for what I want to do I quickly found it on its limit for most of the time. If I had the space, I'd still have one as well though. For the price of a set of wheels and tyres you can get a decent enough one and you'll wonder what you ever did without it ! It'll be interesting to see if that's it. Shaun.
  16. Thank you Sounds like the pressure valve is stuck. I didn't remove it on this pump as all was well. If you look at the photo where I'm putting silicone on the new large o-ring you'll see a slotted bolt/screw thingy. You need to be taking this out and exploring in there. I'm a Civil Servant not hydraulics expert so can't give you a theory based 'correct' answer. If I remember correctly, the Disco version has some oil seals in there. As I didn't venture (leaving well alone) in there on this one I can't say. All I can say is it moved freely on this one. There's nothing special in there that I'm aware of, so don't be worried about taking it apart.
  17. Whilst I’ve had the engine out of my car I’ve been trying to do all of those little jobs that you never seem to get around to doing. Time for the steering pump. It’s had a small weep from around the casing, and as I’ve done a couple of Disco pumps in the past I thought I’d treat it to new seals and bearings: Knock off outer casing Magnet in the casing Remove o-ring Undo front pulley I like to centre pop everything so I can line stuff back up when re-assembling Measure position of pulley flange so you refit back at the right depth Flange is interference fir – you need to pull it off rubbish! That never happened before. The flanges on the Disco pumps I’ve done weren’t cast. If I’d have realised, I’d have warmed it up a bit first. Oh well, you live and learn. Grind a cross in it taking great care not to go through completely and mark the shaft. Support the shaft and one sharp smack with a hammer and chisel and the flange will split From memory, the pump is a little different to the Disco version inside. I can’t remember the Disco pump having that thin oilite support bearing at the end of the shaft. In the next photo you can see the main front bearing with the oil scroll. These are the replacement bearings that I’ve used before to replace the front bearing. I couldn’t get one at the time that was the same length, so fitted two in line. Nor do these have the scroll. Both other pumps never failed (one did about 100K on them) using these type replacements, so my experience tells me that the scroll isn’t essential. Anyhow. I couldn’t measure any wear on either of the bearings, so I didn’t replace them. These in the pump casing simply push out, and new ones in quite easily. I decided to replace the front seal as a matter of course though – although there was no leak. I had a spare drive flange from a Disco, unfortunately it had been butchered and wasn’t any good. So had to set about to make one out of the piece of steel on the right. I decided not to make the flange as ‘long’ as the Defender one. This was on the basis that the Disco one never slipped on the shaft, so why would it need all that extra surface area. Disco flange, new flange and Defender version. Re-assembly – make new outer o-ring. Bought the seal on line from here: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?osCsid=9f3e1d8d0d37cad81e49bc8f60403469. Had the choice of two. Nitrile one for under £2, and a better Viton rubber version for about £7 ish. Forgot to take photo of fitting it. I went for the ‘expensive’ one! I use some silicone sealant on the rear housing o-ring. Remember to line the cover back up with your reference marks and using a bit of wood to spread the load, give it a clout to push it back on. I enter the banjo bolt to ensure all lines up – you can just see it behind the wood. Now to fitting the front drive flange. I decided to turn up a bit of bar so that I could press it on to the correct depth in one fell swoop. Heat the flange. It’s a couple of thou interference. Put counterbored bar on flange and tap it on. You do only have to tap it, not a great whack! Tightening up the pulley bolts – using an old v belt to hold the pulley. I marked up the flange in relation to the shaft to see if it does move. If it does, it looks like I’ll have to make another! There you go, hopefully that’ll save you a couple of hundred quid for a new pump! Shaun
  18. Yep. That's the answer. You need a Jack Russell. 'Frank' likes to be here: Or here:
  19. I moved one of my TR7s last night using my Dolly. You are quite right about the castor effect. The car steered much worse than when I tow a 'complete' car. Check out the difference in front suspension heights... Shaun
  20. Having seen this thread, I liked the tacho that much I wnet on Ebay and found an identical one for £34 inc P&P striaght away . It's not arrived as yet, but described as new with some minor scratches to the bezel. Thanks for the heads up
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