ash

It's a disco 200 in Def, does that make a difference

Turn your steering half way and get under with a pry bar and work at bushes

Most likely as I did try to start it as soon as it cut out. It didn't start but obviously I have turned it over there. when I opened expansion tank it let the pressure out and then gurgled air bubbles which to me suggests it's getting gas into the coolant.. Valves?? i plan to take the head off and start with the rockers and push rods and work my way down until I find the culprit ...... Unless I find a mot failed disco in the meantime

Round 2 of my bad luck. so green laning and went through a little water which suddenly dropped deep. wading was not planned etc so please leave those comments. anyway, sucked water up through filter and also into turbo and engine cut out. Pulled it out and with help of my friends - took out wet air filter -drained inter cooler and pipes -removed glow plugs and cranked it over firing all the water out of Pistons - put it all back together (minus wet filter ) prayed and fired her up. started and is missing and blowing white/grey smoke. Left it running then went for a drive to try clear it as it needs to get me 170 miles home. very lumpy and stutters at low revs and blows smoke. At hard revs and speed it's ok. we think it has bent a conrod due to missing on the fact that it has sucked water into cylinders. plan to compression test when I get home. What would you check prior to Conrod as its obviously a biggish job? check pushrods aren't bent? dont think its bent a valve. ideas and suggestions on the engine please not the stupidity of no snorkel etc as it wasn't planned or intended

Ok to round this thread up. 250 miles of driving including the strada at Wales and it happily sat at 92-88 degrees and only went to about 103 once on a steep climb in low 1st. I flicked the fan on and that brought it back down. it would appear all is well on the overheating issue. or all was well. I'll start a new thread for my next issue as its a different problem...... Water ingress

That's good then as even when I drive it like I have stolen it I can't get it to top 100 degrees.

That's reassuring at least, thanks guys i do think the temp is to consistent to be an issue. If there was something wrong I am sure with 20 miles of hard driving it would boil, but it gets to the temp and just sits there

Just pure water, when my fan ties arrive I will drain it and put in a 50/50 mix, attach the electric fan to a manual switch and try again. ill report back. Swaying more to just going for it and praying that it's ok. the main thing that concerns me is the hose pressure, they are hard, when I squeeze hard I can't fully compress the hose, only about half compress

I have tried 3 stats - wax stat - bear mach - genuine LR all 3 can't be dud

It still seems pretty consistent. I fully washed all before fitting rad including removing block drain plug and washing block. I will wash all again before I add coolant again which I will do tomorrow. there are no cold spots on rad

Temp sensor for gauge is in the therm casing, for the fan it is in the top hose so all before the rad

Kenlowe electric. It wasn't coming on though but it was sensor wired and I think the sensor wasn't working as I took it out of the top hose and put it in boiling water and it still didn't come on. Plan to wire it onto a manual switch in next day or two. Sonas it stands... No fan

Used 2 different rads and 3 stars all with similar results. with no stat it sits at half way without issue.

Latest update:20 mile run from cold2.5 mile - 70 degrees3.5 mile - 804.5 mile - 90Rest of journey 90-98 but mainly around 95 degrees I would say.Pressure in bottom and top hoses where if I squeeze as hard as I can I can half squish it if that makes sense.Heater runs hot and would say when I put it on engine temp went up a degree or 2.After returning 20 mins to cool turned off, still pressure in pipes. Opened expansion tank and pressure and out but water did not erupt and pipes are soft. No oil in water that I can see and no water in oil.

Anyone who can help on this, I only have a week until I'm meant to be away in it and it just doesn't seem right. wondering if problems are still with head gasket and the head. It was straight and no visible cracks, but could it be cracked internally? i don't know the history on the head it was an eBay purchase

I had an issue with my converted 200tdi. basically aux belt snapped but I stupidly drove it home. head cracked between 3-4 and 5-6 valves. So fitted another head. after fitting the head I fitted the following: -airtex water pump fitted-genuine LR stat -new radiator-TIM electric temp gauge-full system drain including block. Back washed with hose until clear-just water in the system no coolant.17 mile run which was 10 miles country roads, 3 miles urban roads, 4 miles bypass at 70mphat idle for 45 mins sat at 70 degreesOn a run pretty quick to 90 degrees then for rest of journey it sat at 95-98 degrees. Tim gauge goes from 80-100 and it never reach 100 it was just under it.Popped bonnet and rocker is very hot, top hoses are hot but a can hold just. Top of rad is hot, bottom is cool, bottom hose is like warm / cool.Slowly opened expansion tank and water erupted so closed quickly. Hoses are hard, really hard actually.So what do we think??Is it all good

Hmmm don't think I'll bother then as will be a lot of hassle stripping it. I will prob keep my eyes open for just an engine as mainly I want an engine as a spare and to practice a rebuild on as I have never done full engine only head.

Bugger I thought the gearbox was the same being the lt77. Think mine has disco transfer box already. Just thought maybe worth getting for spares

I have a LR 110 with 200tdi conversion (disco) I have the opportunity to get a running 200tdi disco with 150k on clock for £500. Is this a decent buy? If so what parts should I keep for defender? -engine and aux - gearbox and transfer box - axles Anything else? I will then sell and weigh in rest

hard to note exactly where the knocjking is coming from from vid, but can see it stops when you press throttle but does it when stationary. are all mounts intact as engines more more pn tick over??

I have 2000 td4 auto, very smooth box and lovely to drive. no problems with it as yet and i do tow a 1450kg caravan. heard that manuals will burn clutches fast especially when towing weight. i would say since freelander is not a vehicle you buy to drive for speed etc i would go auto, cant beat steadily pottering along in the countryside without having to change gear only down side on the newer plate ones is higher tax band, and also the higher MPG but its only about 5 miles

thanks fridge , i would off road the freelander but its my wife's and dont think she would be too happy about it and dont fancy my chances of getting far in my saab . I have driven a series before my uncle had one and now has a 90 which i have also driven and must say i loved both, i must just be a sucker for punishment i guess. i am however getting slightly drawn to a disco as seemt o be able to get a more 'complete' vehicle for your money and i would really like to attempt building a G4 replica as i love the colour . will continue to save up anyway

hiya guys, ita all ok i have been involved in enough forums to know that you have to take 2 pages of abuse before you get the actual answers anyways unfortuantely my central heating has packed up so had to pull out of the sale as need an entire new system unfortunately . maybe a good thing i guess as said i have worked on cars but mainly been mini's etc never been down the land rover path which is why i come to you lot first as you will spot things i am yet to find out about. and from what you have listed it may cost a little more in time and ££ than i have to give at this moment, and if the axels have been changed, along with the engine etc I am running the risk of not hitting the required 8 points for tax exempt i guess.# so for the time been I still have my freelander and i can now try starting to save up again and maybe get one early next year or something thanks for pointing out the bits guys, I hadnt spotted them and sure this beast would have ended up costing far more money than i have to give at this moment in time. i will still be lingering around the freelander forum anyway

ok guys i have a freelander and have been on that forum, but i am new to the series world. i have bought a 1972 109 series witha 200tdi engine on standard box and a terrible 5" lift which i will be getting rid of. never have involvement on landy's so i am a newbie to it. I gave £1100 for the vehicle, do you think that price is ok given engine has 115k and it needs a few niggly bits doing? just want to be sure i am not being ripped off. (not collected vehicle yet). (it has cab conversion with it too, so thinking of fitting that to make it a pick up) thanks

hey guys, new to the forum and just want to say hey. I am currently looking to join the world of land rover and am looking out for a TD4 5dr es. my budget is quite low so prob aiming for an X or Y reg due to slightly lower tax too. anyways, I tow a 1500kg max weight caravan and just general driving other than that, I am currently undecided whether to go for a manual or auto. any advice would be much appreciated thanks and look forward to being involved in the forum ash