StuRox

Thanks for that - have only just been given this link, which has confirmed what you have just said:- E-bay relay Yeah, good advice about the damp - had a quick scan through the others, and they seemed fine, but am going to have a good look at them all at the weekend in the day light to give them a good check over.

Well, here is the culprit that was causing me all the problems with the disco auto starting:- You can see that the connectors and block are pretty corroded to say the least. Also when I tested the relay, there is still a circuit across the to pins when it should be completely closed, so hence the disco trying to start all the time. After a search on the internet I found that there were more relays behind the kickplate of the drivers foot well. So pulled it off last night, and located the worst looking relay, pulled it out, and the glow plug light stayed on for its warm up, and no trying to start instantly – result. Found a relay in my garage – a 30/40A one which I put in its place, and it would only start with a bit of wiggling, so I snipped off the connector block, and put new spade connectors on the wires, connected back up, and starts perfectly. So my next question is, is there anyway of finding out what amp relay the knackered one is, to make sure the one I have put in will last?

Cheers fozsug, Any pics or its actual location of the relay, so I can have a look at it tonight?

That's what I am thinking, given it failed to start, and now it won't stop starting - points to a component failure more than a wiring problem. The only relay I have found in the bonnet is attached the fuse box on the drivers side near the battery. I have disconnected that one, and it still starts, although when disconnected, the glow plug light does not come on at all, even if I move the gear lever into drive, which makes me wonder if this might be the one at fault, as its a major relay with a microchip in it, and about 7 seven wires going into it. Does anyone know where the 12v positive feed wire goes to that is on the starter motor, as then I can start to trace back through the starting process to see where the fault lies?

Well, now my Disco 300 TDi is now starting itself! Quite a change from the threads of ‘not starting’ recently! As soon as I get to stage 2 of the ignition it starts to turn over, and even when the engine is running its still turning over the starter motor. I have pulled the spade off the started solenoid, to stop it starting, and then have ran a 12v live to the spade, and this turns over the starter motor fine, so can rule that out. After searching the forum, I found someone else had a similar problem, and that was down to the ignition barrel – well mine was getting a bit stiff with the key, so thought I would replace that, and still no cure. In the cold spell, it wouldn’t actually turn over, so I did think there was a problem with the Starter Motor, but as I have mentioned, that turned over fine with the 12v live direct from the battery, so I made up a push button start to get it going in the cold, now I am again using this to start given I have had to remove the original feed from the ignition. Any idea’s on what to try next? It must be something simple, as I can leave the gear lever in ‘Park’ and it won’t turn over and the glowplug light stays on to warm, but leave it in park, and turn to stage 2 of the ignition and the glow plug light goes out straight away and will try and start the car without the need of turning the key. I am thinking maybe a duff Starter Relay??? but I have tried to find this with no luck – have even pulled out all the 8 or so relays one at a time in the passenger footwell to see if that stops it turning over, but no. Its driving me mad – please help.......

Yes, thats the one I followed. Basically you cut out the light box, line up the light, and then keep cutting until it fits.... The wings you have to square off at the top, and that's what took the time, to get them to line up nicely.

The only problem is, the price of the lights can vary a lot, esp on fleabay....

mmm, doing it with my own lights and money, not so bad if I mess up - put it down to experience, but working on someone elses.......not too sure about that.......

Thanks, had the lights since Christmas debating whether to put them on or just sell them, given the amount of work I needed to do, and if I messed up, would have been knackered, but after seeing the end result, really pleased that I did it

Right then, some more pics - first few were taken in the day light, and the rest in the dark, although the camera never takes true life pics of lights in the dark - but you get the idea.....

If you are ok using an angle grinder, and are confident to hack away at the body work, then fine lol A lot of metal has to be removed, and I also had to fabricate a bracket for one of the top bolts of the lights....so not a direct replacement shall we say - but it is possible....just a lot of work.....as I take the view take off a little, and then you can take off some more - so probably took me a bit longer doing it that way, but a better finish.... I did the lights one at a time and probably spent an evening on each light, but that was in the comfort of the garage, and not open to the elements, since it started to rain half way through!

Well, lots of people will ask why I bothered, but as I picked up a set of D2 facelift headlights for cheap off ebay, as they had knackered reflectors (Full of mud) , I thought why not... So stripped down the headlights, cleaned them all up, even installed some LED Daylight Running lights, and put in some SMD LED clusters for the Side Light and Indicator Light, and then got them onto my 300. I know it will not be a D2 by changing the lights, but I like the look of them better than the 300's and she past her MOT with flying colours so thought I would do something that wasn't a necessity for a change

I have BF Goodrich fitted to my 300 in the same size as you state, and I dont have a lift (yet).... Just needed to do the camel cut, and also adjust the steering stops to stop the inner tyre rubbing on the chasis and alls good

only problem with that setup, is that it is with the use of a snorkel, and thats not really the way I wanted to go, given the costs of them......

Hey all, I have my second battery now ready to fit, and have searched through the previous posts of fitting one, but all they say is some 'bits and bobs' need relocating. My problem is how - as you can see from the pic, I have my air intake right bang in the way, together with the cruise control bits (but I think the battery will fit with the cruise control bits still in the same place - so how do I relocate the air intake without major works, or fitting a snorkel which is not the sort of thing I am after due to the costs - or is a case of major works required :confused: Any ideas appreciated on how I can get the standard size battery into this space....

Well, had a look at the wires from the headlight switch, and the dipped beam on my Disco was a solid blue wire....so I have now have a feed going to my relay for new circuit - jobs a good one

Hi Sean, Yes, will post pics once its all completed. As for brightness, I am used to driving with Xenon, so really hard going back to halogen, and especially the cadle power output from the 300tdi lights......(bought the 300 for off roading, but since its there on the drive, might was play with it!) The new ones will be a lot better, esp with the projector lenses with HID. Just waiting for them to land from foreign parts, and then its project lights with the angle grinder....

not wanting to go from that feed, as it switches off the dipped when main beam engaged, so trying to trace the wire from the actual switch on the stalk before it goes to the light module box......

I am just in the process of upgrading my lights on my 300tdi to the facelift TD5 versions.....but with a few more mods... I have taken the lights completely apart, and fitted LED clusters for the side lights and indicators....also fitted a 40cm LED strip for a Day light Running light, and then I am just waiting for the projector Bi-xenon adaptors to be delivered to be fitted in the dipped reflectors, as unfortunately you never get the right beam pattern fitting HID's in reflector housing, even if you use the smaller HID bulbs with the black surround on them, like the H7R bulbs, although they do help a lot..... Yes, I like lights - lol......I do a lot of conversions for other cars too, like the BMW e60 to the new facelifted lights, and have done xenon conversions on all my other cars - can't beat xenon..... Hopefully will get them fitted in a couple of weeks.....as can't stand the candles I have now.......

Howdy all, I am trying to locate the wire that switches on the dipped beam from the steering stalk - does anyone have any idea on the easiest place to locate it, or what colour it is? Its on a 300TDi 1996 model in case they are different. Cheers

Well, I recently changed my battery, and never researched enough, and got one with enough CCA's to turn her over, but only just – (about 600 I think).....so instead of spending more on another battery…..as money is a bit tight at present , I have a spare in the garage that I could fit as a 2nd, and then split charge etc - will this then give more CCA's these cold mornings to help turn over the veg oil? I have read lots of threads about this, and some people just run the battery in parallel, but after a while won’t this discharge both? But my main question is that I wasn’t sure with the split charge if they would both work when cranking over, or just the main battery, and then once running the 2nd Battery comes to life? Also thought I could then run all aux spots etc from 2nd battery too Any help appreciated as looking to get one of these Split Charge jobbies - Split Charge Relay Cheers