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western

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Everything posted by western

  1. I used that wire on mine to supply 12v ignition switched power to a relay, if you don't need it just ensure it is safely taped to the loom.
  2. PDWA unit below the steering column, it was deleted for the 1991 model year, the system got a low fluid level float cap/switch unit instead.
  3. Then there is 2 black and white with male and female connectors, I’m thinking they go to the brake fluid to brake PDWA unit or low brake fluid float cap. 1 white and orange with a female connector. air condition feed 12v ignition switched
  4. not easy at all, without a bearing press, much quicker to buy/fit a new or recon alternator & could be used as an excuse to upgrade the rated output i'e' - 65amp for a 100 or 120amp plus increase the wiring diameter from alt to starter/battery.
  5. 'dancing' rear lights is a poor or missing earth connection to the body, just remove the big grey bullet connector, fit new end terminals & new 4 or 6 way common connector & clean up the body earth point in the left rear corner. you don't need to worry about amp rating
  6. But they still have no idea what it looks like without the camo applied. All guess work.
  7. Any of the LR independent parts places can sell you some,
  8. Glad the info was useful, on the standard set up, the dash light provides a earth path for the side that is not selected, the B. O. B part will sort it.
  9. Temp sender on the left of rocker cover is for the egr system not the coolant temp that sender is at the thermostat
  10. Boost only works when driven, checks just revving it while stationary won't tell you if it's working under load.
  11. Better to run the upper additional indicators via a relay for each one. Also swap the indicator dash light for one of bolt on bits modded items that stops the one side feeding the other side, common on older single dash ind light systems, some late 300tdi have separate dash ind light as does td5 models & newer vehicles
  12. Indicator stalk should still be down for Left indicators & up for Right indicators, regardless if left or right hand drive.
  13. IIRC they only come pre attached to the cables, not listed a seperate parts. But some here http://cat.lrparts.ru/?category=107195 Click on the item number for more info. or these guys maybe able to help https://www.thegrommetcompany.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuLr_m_Lk4wIVA7DtCh3JpATXEAAYASAAEgLk9PD_BwE
  14. Just drain & refill with a new oil filter, no other work needed.
  15. The first 3 digits denote the engine type & original vehicle range it was fitted to, the rest is the engine serial number, they do not give any other info.
  16. I would love to have that & bring iyt back to Cornwall, St Dennis isn't to far away either from me, but space & funds prevent my bidding on it.
  17. more info here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Master
  18. if the existing unit has brass side tanks get a new core fitted.
  19. Have a look in a 1991 defender parts book for hand throttle parts, only items in my 1987 on parts bok are for the older diesel engines, totally different parts.
  20. Very well, 19,339 miles & 665.2 running hours today, no problems with running, no oil usage or coolant loss. In all its all in good order.
  21. 1982 - 1993 Morris Marina mark 1, 1800 4 door Marina 1300 estate, this got the full 1.8 drive train when that car was scrapped Ital 1.7slx estate, became a 2.0slx when I found a 2.0 'O' series engine which I rebuilt, sold this car to a guy in southampton in late '93 mid '93 to date my 110CSW.
  22. Yes, in my 110 the blue frc3310 gear.
  23. I wouldn't rely on those speed signs being 100% accurate. check your speedo readings against a GPS unit. I run 255/85 with a standard 110 transfer box of 1.410:1 & its very accurate when compared to my gps speed
  24. The LR bottle jack will lift the tyre clear IF you put the jack under the axle so the spring cannot extend while lifting the vehicle
  25. My 200 has in excess of 500,000 miles, didn't replace the con rod bolts at my rebuild, engine is running fine
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