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Everything posted by western

  1. I didn't ring, just bought the seal kit & brake cone from Overdrive repairs in Sheffield & got on with the job.
  2. AL-KO formerly Bradley doublelock own Dixon-bate now, the current page for the NATO pintle. https://www.al-ko.com/shop/uk_vt/products/towing-trailer-accessories/towing-equipment/3-5t-light-towing-pintle.html might be worth a call Customer Service 01926 818500
  3. The cone with the friction material on. I know it was new as Neil & you told me. Done a fluid level top up, it needed about 30ml so it just runs out the fill/level hole.
  4. Can't be 100 % sure but I didn't fancy taking it off again if I had left it fitted, there's just enough space for OD to be removed/fitted & for its size it's a heavy unit,
  5. You should be able to buy without setting up an account, Hobson are well known for refurbishing ex military land rover vehicles & export sales. https://hobsonindustries.co.uk/
  6. OD fluid pump parts, old seals above their respective locations & new seals fitted. housing fitted ready for the concentric offset drive from main shaft. bottom part of pump assembly in place, the fluid way must match the rear case drilling pump relief valve seat in place, a ball bearing sits in the centre, it's spring in the end cap. ball bearing valve in place fluid pump end cap & spring, this was fitted & screwed down tight. all 3 caps tight in place, ready for the swap over to become the operational overdrive.
  7. This afternoon & evening has mainly be taken up by fitting the new seals to the relief valve, fluid pump & replaced the seals on my newer spare solenoid & the new circular filter in to my original overdrives rear casing, the flat filter in sump & the magnetic strip cleaned, I also bought a new brake cone as well I know the existing cone was new but I didn't want to be taking the OD off again to replace the cone, some photo's below so & after fitting this lot to the 110 & doing a 18 mile test drive on local town roads, a run down to Hayle & back home along the A30, all seems to be OK, I'll check the fluid level in the morning, hopefully the OD should work fine now. Relief valve with new seals fitted & old seals above their respective locations relief valve sleeve in rear case of overdrive, the cut out & fluid drilling must be inline relief valve pin located in the rear case. the 2 springs located on the relief valve pin. relief valve outer sleeve located over the 2 springs & pin. then the end cap is screwed down tight. circular filter location. new circular main fliter,gasket & end cap with new seal fitted. new filter & gasket in place, then end cap is screwed down tight.
  8. I just cleaned my radius arms, trailing arms, A frame arms & original gearbox mounts with a rotary wire brush & painted with Galvafroid primer & chassis black paint, on saying that, pretty sure the gearbox mounts got bead blasted as well before paint & later replaced with galvanised items a few months later. the paint is holding up well after 5 years.
  9. Looked at Brit-car website, they say obsolete, But might be able to source one, got to be worth a phone call or email,
  10. not much progress so far, but I have made sure all the fluid galleries in my original rear case are clear of dirt & any other items that could cause a restriction, so I'll be building it up tomorrow ready to swap over & hopefully all this work/expense will make this OD work properly. I will take some photo's as it progresses to 'ready to fit' state I have found that the seal kit shown above contains the seals for the relief valve, fluid pump & solenoid seals.
  11. Doh sorry missed it. glad they worked OK & it starts better.
  12. Might help if we knew which engine these are for ?
  13. LR series.com is good for finding out the bolt size, put the part number in search, click the info appears below the photo of the respective item
  14. Only the spring under the end cap, sounds good then, the 12v is on the 2 fingers if no power the wire might be broken in the stalk or switching end.
  15. Pop the stalk end cap off & examine the fingers & spring, they could be corroded stopping the current flow
  16. the parts pack from overdrive repairs arrived today, so I now have a nice new clean filter for the rear section & seals for the pistons, solenoid & other items the 3 smallest O ring seals are for the solenoid internal rod & next 2 bigger seal are for the solenoid outer rod. Piston seals x 2 below pen nib Solenoid seals x 2 below pen nib nice shiney new clean filter & gasket
  17. in the parts pack from overdrive repairs is hopefully seals for the pump & relief valve. so that would be good to rule duff seals out.
  18. new piston seals arrived, waiting the other parts & filter from https://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/buy-spares.php?cat=J Type Spare Parts List
  19. Only a little just enough to keep the main gearbox engaged, but I don't believe that is the problem as the OD is meant to be engaged & disengaged under power without using the vehicles clutch. I will check the original rear case before fitting it with new piston seals & new filter to see if the oil ways are clear.
  20. At work now, even with the solenoid empower disabled OD slipped 5 times on the way to work, worst occurrence as pulling away from a give way line on a roundabout, took a reduction of revs to almost idle to get OD to grip & give some drive. So solly can be discounted as the cause.
  21. I'll remove the 12v feed fuse & see what happens tomorrow on the way to work, that way I know no loose wiring will be flapping about underneath, it'll give the same affect as disconnecting the 12v feed on solenoid. the wiring in my 110 is fine it worked fine with the original OD fitted. borrowed from this website https://www.landypedia.de/index.php/Überholung_eines_GKN_Overdrives it has 2 concentric coil springs this valve in both my OD rear cases is spotless clean & no apparent damage From left to right: Valve body, control piston, shims, springs, spring cup, front hole cover. Above is the cylinder of the dashpot Fuse removed & solenoid does NOT operate when ign is on & gear knob switch is switched to on.
  22. The springs sit directly on the cone clutch bearing carrier & act against the rear housing, see reb's strip down photos earlier, there are no separate spring seats. The solenoid is directly switched from the gearknob switch, this is the 12v feed to energise it, the earth goes from solenoid terminal to one of the OD attachment bolts.
  23. Either are Ok, I have TRW units fitted in my 110. https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=defender+clutch+master+cylinder&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10
  24. Don't know where devon4x4 have the springs made, but they look exactly like my original OD springs in diameter/length/wire diameter, the cone clutch bearing in each unit is in ATF all the time the vehicle is running so it can't run dry & they feel good when rotated by hand with no unwanted play.
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