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Everything posted by western

  1. Yes still working fine, Oil temp sender screws into forward edge of the oil filter housing, between the arms of the injection pump to engine block bracket as shown in photo, there is a big screw blanking cap [item 5] on the diagram just below the hand drawn oil temp sender PRC4372, it comes out & the oil temp sender screws in. the female spade connector slides on to the sender circular terminal, if you use a fully insulated terminal you will have to cut part of the sleeve away to allow it to fit the sender.
  2. Other members will respond when they are able, any other posts have been deleted, there is no need to put it in other forums which are not related to the vehicle model, only the post above is visible to all other members.
  3. Yes FWB will be able to supply suitable bolts But they will not recognise Land Rover part numbers. if you get all the numbers from the parts book, then go on LRSeries website & enter each number in turn the results usually give the size & thread type in the info below the item photo.
  4. Oil pressure for the engine, No idea if there is a oil temp sender for that auto box,
  5. Incorrectly reconnected when they refitted the lights is my guess.
  6. Yes to the bearing shell notch on same side then that will mean the cap is fitted in the correct direction. there maybe a a number denoting which cylinder/rod set stamped into each cap & rod [there is on my 200Tdi's conrods]
  7. I think some of my caps [1989 110CSW] are genuine & some are Allmakes, or all 4 might be Allmakes, no given any problems, I usually warm them in hot water, quickly dry, put a blob of grease or axle oil inside & shove them in place. the grip better as they cool down.
  8. Conrods & caps are normally marked as pairs & must be fitted the correct orientation, What engine have you got ?
  9. Think my current tank is a Allmakes [now Britpart] it got painted with a few coats Galvafriod primer & then vehicle chassis black gloss on top, I found a galvanised stone guard on ebay, painted it, it chassis black, put a layer of sealant between tank & guard to keep moisture out, been OK sofar 7 years on.
  10. Elring composite gasket like the existing one, I tried a MLS one a while ago & ended up changing back to a Elring as the MLS allowed oil/coolant to mix.
  11. suspect head gasket leaking from coolant way to cylinder. upper right of that photo looks a bit dodgy. or it could be residual coolant from the head when you lifted it off.
  12. Hi Andy, Welcome, I used this kit on my 110, a good kit & definitely stopped the glass rattling https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/collections/garrison-outfitters/products/garrison-sw-rear-window-kit
  13. Mounts are bolted to the Borg Warner NV225 transfer box.
  14. 2nd time I saved to my laptop then uploaded it, 1st was a copied link from the Facebook page, so don't know why you couldn't see it.
  15. A phone call to the guys at Helston Diesel would be worth the time, they rebuilt my Tdi injection pump a few years ago & helped when I had a leak & supplied the new seal. http://www.helstondiesel.co.uk/contact.htm no mention of a washer behind the timing gear.
  16. so how can it be legal ? unless it was a ex military 6 wheel RR TACR2 to start with, definitely not worth near 30K.
  17. I would be going to check it myself, the initial damage doesn't look to have moved the front chassis leg, the impact would of been disappated by the wing, bumper bending rearwards & the other vehicle.
  18. What vehicle ? which engine? if engine number doesn't match the heritage certificate does it match the V5 Reg Document thats the one that matters, it could be a replacement engine & 1st owner hasn't bothered to change V5.
  19. I can see it fine in my post above. but just in case
  20. This appeared on one of my Facebook groups I follow [not the ERF] but it's load, comment about the picture says it was taken at Sandbach a few years ago.
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