western

Yep 3 per shaft, the adaptor must be dead square to the nipple to work correctly

& for moving off with a heavy trailer/load attached.

I use low in traffic jams, low 2nd is great for trickling along in slow traffic, practice low to hi range change, it's worth knowing how to do it

No handbag, I'll just chuck the complete toolbox at him

This info from Norbar may help here and this torque calculator http://www.norbar.com/torquetensioncalculator.php lifted from good engineering practices Happy nut torquing

anyway, why aren't you under the 110 fixing the vibration problem

Yep I'm fine my printer wouldn't print the 2nd sheet correctly, after a good talking to it decided to work.

torque wrenches MUST be held at the handgrip to obtain a correct reading otherwise the leverage will exert a diffferent torque to the one you have set.

These will help -----

Loads of Vehicle Paint info in vehicle painting pointers

Excellent Now fit that X-brake

Happy to help

I know, owned it for 20 odd years it's still accurate when checked on the torque analyser at work.

I got mine from the AA as a member it was free.

esr2912 elbow intercooler [ turbo end of steel pipe] esr2913 intercooler hose [forward end [attaches steel pipe to intercooler stub pipe]

Don't know of any galvanised tanks for a 90, my new one [110] is I believe either galvanised or plated.

I always use my Norbar click stop torque wrench evertime, never had a timing belt go on my 200Tdi.

your VIN number isn't recognised by EPC, so I can't confirm which bit you need. but I suspect your lower seal is on the door as per the later 300Tdi engined 90/110 range, my 1989 110 has the lower seal on the sill with the rolled metal edge on the sill.

in that case the glowplug section is a seperate part under LR number PRC 6083 & STC 934 you may need both parts. The wiring is practically the same as the wiring for the other diesels. The original battery lead can be reused. Because Land Rover Actually did the 200 Tdi as a proper Retrofit you can buy alot of parts off the shelf. I joined the vehicle engine connector to the engine connector as it's the same, the colour coding of the looms was identical. When buying your engine, make sure you get the glow plug timer relay located on the bulkhead if you lucky you could take the wiring right back to the dash. You can buy the loom for this off Land Rover or make your own, I bought it because wiring isn't my strong point and so that you lovely people can copy it! the Cable is 7ft long the brown and yellow/black wires are 5mm and the others are 2mm. The cable PRC 6083 has a plug which connects to the glowplug timer and a yellow/black cable which goes to the screw on glow plug number 4. the thick brown cable goes to the battery +. Cable STC 934 plugs into PRC 6083 and the black/white wire screws to the bulkhead. At the other end of it the white/red cable goes to the white/red on the back of the igniton and the connector with both the whites goes to the white on the the ignition, they both have piggyback connectors. The yellow/black wire goes to the spade on the bottom of the orange looking square light on the warning panel and the other white goes to the top spade. borrowed from here

Well, thats something I didn't know, my OME N45's N44's have lasted just over 10 years on my fairly heavy 110, just replaced all 4 recently.

ebay would probably be the easiest place to find the bits you need.

see the tech archive for my thread on x-brake fit on my 110 & good to hear you've nearly isolated the culprit bearings.

300Tdi vac pump isn't a DIY servicable part, But some have repaired theirs. if it is the pump a new one is fairly expensive.

got EPC here & now got it working on Vista home premium, PM me for more info.

not fitted yet, so maybe after, still need the transducer for my gearbox.