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western

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Posts posted by western

  1. This info from Norbar may help here

    and this torque calculator http://www.norbar.com/torquetensioncalculator.php

    Apply a smooth even pull when applying torque pressure, by holding the torque wrench at the centre of the handle and smoothly apply the required force at right angles to the wrench. If chattering or a jerking motion occurs during final torque
    lifted from good engineering practices Happy nut torquing :D
  2. can someone confirm for me that the following part numbers are the ones i need

    ESR2912 and esr2913

    typical i have some at home but that is 140 miles away so will have to order and pay for some shock horror

    thanks in advance western :)

    paul

    esr2912 elbow intercooler [ turbo end of steel pipe]

    esr2913 intercooler hose [forward end [attaches steel pipe to intercooler stub pipe]

    :D

  3. in that case the glowplug section is a seperate part under LR number PRC 6083 & STC 934 you may need both parts.

    The wiring is practically the same as the wiring for the other diesels. The original battery lead can be reused. Because Land Rover Actually did the 200 Tdi as a proper Retrofit you can buy alot of parts off the shelf. I joined the vehicle engine connector to the engine connector as it's the same, the colour coding of the looms was identical. When buying your engine, make sure you get the glow plug timer relay located on the bulkhead if you lucky you could take the wiring right back to the dash. You can buy the loom for this off Land Rover or make your own, I bought it because wiring isn't my strong point and so that you lovely people can copy it! the Cable is 7ft long the brown and yellow/black wires are 5mm and the others are 2mm. The cable PRC 6083 has a plug which connects to the glowplug timer and a yellow/black cable which goes to the screw on glow plug number 4. the thick brown cable goes to the battery +. Cable STC 934 plugs into PRC 6083 and the black/white wire screws to the bulkhead. At the other end of it the white/red cable goes to the white/red on the back of the igniton and the connector with both the whites goes to the white on the the ignition, they both have piggyback connectors. The yellow/black wire goes to the spade on the bottom of the orange looking square light on the warning panel and the other white goes to the top spade.

    borrowed from here

  4. OME are just rebadged Monroes, not that they are bad. OME shocks don't seem to last as long as they should. If you want to buy Oztralian stuff, IMHO Ironman stuff is better.

    Well, thats something I didn't know, my OME N45's N44's have lasted just over 10 years on my fairly heavy 110, just replaced all 4 recently.

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