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Posts posted by western
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never believe eveything you read, I'm sure we know much more than 'Which' ever will
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try the 'full edit' choice under the drop down 'edit' button at the bottom of your reply, you should be able to upload the information in .jpg or .pdf form straight from your home pc.
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Yes, the transducer will fit the existing speedo drive gear end at the transfer box, I need to get one as well then I can fit my new speedo, just remove the existing drive cable & fit the transducer YBE100530, bolt FS106201M, washer WA106041L & 'O' ring seal 571665.
I've left a reply in the other thread too
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& the FG gauge for the dash
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My 1989 110csw has a standard rear bar & also had the boge strut [now removed as it was dead] it runs on OME springs & shox with the rear bar in place & does very well off road, never given me any cause to doubt it's ability.
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Well done Imperadiero your information will help me a great deal.
this thread just gets better Welcome to LR4x4.com
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Are you sure about roofs Ralph? I thought the defender had a taller screen and so you would have to change roof & screen to be both series or both defender. Also, although the 90/110 is longer wheelbase I believe all the bodywork is the same length overall as 109 CSW sides (sill,B&C pillar) are superseded to the 110 CSW part number and all the doors swap over.
DOH good spot, I was thinking about to many things at the same time.
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Stephen, just enlarge the handle hole till it's a snug fit onto your Jackall's handle, but I agree they should have mentioned it.
for some "Bennification" -
>Have the Transfer Case Hi-Lo Selection Gearshift linkage replaced with the 2003+MY in order to restore the functionality of my CDL (the actual CDL is present, just the linkage is not fitted)
not sure how much the total cost/shipping will be but Ashcroft Transmissons here in the UK, do a kit to enable the CDL on your DiscoveryII
Welcome to LR4x4x too
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Doors will but use the 90 hinges & Series latch striker on the pillar, truck cab roof & back panel should be OK, hardtop not as 90 has a longer body/wheelbase.
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We need some pictures
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but if its anything like the trucks we are getting they will be all german
Not strictly true as MAN also own ERF so most of the new trucks will be UK built & MAN have their UK HQ in Swindon near Junction 16 of the M4
we have some MAN 4 wheel 3,000 gallon refuellers at work, very nice trucks too, the 6 wheelers should be arriving soon.
more on the new trucks
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a few more details & photo's
pic 1 both oil pressure (right) & oil temp (left) gauges as fitted in my 110
pic 2 multiplug connections at bulkhead (engine side)
rh blue sleeve is oil temp from transmitter
lh blue sleeve is oil pressure from transmitter
both of the upper end go into vehicle behind main instrument pack, you'll have to search for them in there. colours as in previous reply
pic 3 rear of oil pressure gauge connections
dark green from behind main instrument pack to gauge signal in from transmitter
white ignition controlled feed for gauge
black earth for gauge & illumination
red/white trace feed from existing gauge illumination
pic4 rear of oil temperature gauge connections
light green (location as above) is temp transmitter signal in to gauge
all other connections as above list (yellow is my power in to gauges)
hope that helps
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Thanks. Hey Ralph, what about if I went for the elec oil gauge like you've got? Where could I get one and is it hard to wire up?
Thanks,
Ged
I used the genuine LR gauges to do mine, [gauge diameter is standard 52mm]
oil pressure gauge prc7319
oil temperature prc7318
the transmitter & adaptor numbers are on this modified parts page [found these under the old 2.5TD engines listing]
wiring needs to be created from the transmiiters to the multiplug adjacent to the brake servo/fuel filter.
light grren/white trace from oil pressure transmitter to gauge
light green/green trace from oil temperature transmitter to gauge
any ignition contolled white to both gauge power in connection
earth to gauge retainer U clamp bolt
gauge illumination to existing instruments illumination connections.
can do photo of rear of my gauges & multiplug connections if required
hth
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Thanks. As an alternative, any ideas for a source for a new capillary-fed oil gauge, ie one of the standard LR diameter to fit the instrument pod?
gauges from Europa Spares in the left list find 'instruments' then click the makers name you want to look at.
just looking at the vdo oil pressure gauge sender unit it says 1/8nptf thread type IIRC this means 1/8 inch national pipe thread fine
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Yep, it's a bit heavy
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Which engine ??
mike
200Tdi
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Looks like it uses the Australian designed wider chassis, doubt LR would redsign it when one already exist in the overseas network.
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SA108210L screw drum retaining
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aH, got it now, what's known in the UK as a anti-sway or stabiliser, UK ones look like a single leaf spring anchored at the vehilce end & sits on a slipper pad at the trailer drawbar end.
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haven't got a clue, I did it the easy way & fitted electrically driven oil prssure & temp gauges
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sounds like the rear wash/wipe switch connections to me,
does yours have rear wash/wipe on the back door, if not it's a worthwhile addition.
Purple is a 12 volt feed [unswitced & always live]
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I'd leave it fitted, my '89 110CSW doesn't have a front anti-roll bar fitted but it does on the back, sometimes I'd like a front one as well, earlier 90's either had none fitted or just a rear one, later 90's as ypurs have both, the on road handling may be different if the front is removed, LR fitted it for good reasons.
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The engine number is sound
you should be able to ditch the EDC bit [electrical thingy] from the pump & run it as a mechanically operated one as per the normal 110 300Tdi.
Buying decent hand tools - where?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
the bits in a decent impact driver set should be able to shift the screws with the aid of LR tool number 1 ['kin big hammer]