I'd put some boards/planks under the forward wheels & centre cutting head & move the strap further forward then when pulling it should lift the rear end up & the cutting head should clear the edge & not dig itself into the bank.
What a waste of time, it won't make any diference as Global Warming cannot be stopped, the world/solar system goes through warm/cool down periods all the time.
I prefer non light motorways at night.
Cheers Jamie, one the back of mine [in picture] it's only got A to left of the upper row of pins & B on the lower row, I can't see any numbers/idents for the small spade terminals, I'm thinking of using the small red female srades as used on car stereo speakers to make the connections at the speedo end & the correct plug for the transducer when I can get that bit.
I've found it in my RAVE disk & it's as clear as mud.
Mo &/or Diesel Jim ---
on the speedo electrical plug connections which pins do I need to use ----
1. to connect the transducer signal & power/earth to ? [see photo of connections below]
2. for the speedo lighting ? [or is it easier to just use the existing bulb holders in the new speedo's bulb tunnels]
just keep it within these limits if using a Towing vehicle up to 3500kg GVW
Maximum Trailer Dimensions
Length (excluding the coupling and drawbar) 7.0 m
Width Maximum 2.3 m
going above these will mean towing with a vehicle over 3500kg GVW [i.e. & 7.5 tonne truck]
Not quite as good as the Ottons guy, I have EPC on my laptop which I get the numbers from & it's just a hobby to help me with my 110 & all you guys/girls with your vehicles.
Sorry Mike, Yes the adaptor have you got one was for you, I see it's all sorted now.
I used some copper crush washers between each part when they were fitted.
some picures of mine fitted here these may help
Probably a sticky plunger or weak spring or at the very worst take the shut off solenoid out & see if there's any very thin slithers of swarf in the recess, if there is, you'll need to get the pump rebuilt, it's how the cam plate & roller pick up on each other & wear.
Good to hear it's working as it should, if you decide to replace the temp gauge & sender with a better part,This idea for fitting a VDO sender & matching VDO water temp gauge is A1 here
Well that's just wierd that it turns out to be a metric thread.
Yes, I remember the adaptor, have you found one yet?
can't remember if you have a capillary or electric driven gauge, my oil pressure gauge is the genuine LR elctric one & I used the adaptor in my modified drawing attached, was wondering if it would do for your gauge connection.
oil_pressure_gauge__trnamitter_fittings.pdf
maybe it's not metric but unf & the later engines just use older parts, I know for certain the 200Tdi & older 2.5TD oil pressure switch & oil filter head are the same parts.
I'd call it the
Defender CRTD (common rail turbo diesel) or Defender TCRD (turbo common rail diesel)
IIRC LR wouldn't use the engine size 2.4 as it would be seen as a less powerful engine in joe publics eyes
My EPC lists the oil pressure switch PRC6387 as a common part for the 2.25 petrol & all 2.5 engines petrol & diesel including both versions of the Tdi, also confirmed in my 110 1987 on paper parts book [LR genuine copy]