Jump to content

Confused

Getting Comfortable
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Harrogate
  1. Cheers for your input chaps, I got the grinder out today, made the 2" slot into a 5" slot, drove over some speed bumps and no hitting. Hopefully its the same off - road!
  2. haha, it was 2nd hand DrRob, still got some of the galv on too! Though there's a QT jobby planned for the rear after xmas. Cheers for the sensible advice Nigel, I'll get the grinder out next time I have a day off and go slow over the speed bumps in the mean time. The Bronco Grizzly Claw 235/85/16s I bought for off road have battered my inner arches, they showed me where all the rust is - there are holes there now instead. I might slice a bit off to make them +1" bump stops instead because I think that should do me.
  3. For what its worth, on my 300tdi I have a radiator with most of the fins missing and run all year round with viscous fan removed. I have never seen the temperature gauge rise above the middle though I do keep the fan and the fan spanner in the back, just in case.
  4. I just fitted an axle and diff guard which bolts in place using the radius arm bolts and sits under the axle with a removable part under the diff for oil changes. I noticed a 'ting' noise the first time I drove the vehicle so, presuming it was the axle guard interfering with something, I crawled underneath and looked for impact marks. The only ones I could find were on the very front of the axle guard so I strapped a camera under there to confirm and I see that the panhard rod hits the edge of the front lip of the axle guard when I go over speed bumps. There is a small cut out which looks like it is meant to accommodate for this but it is about a third of the required length. Does anyone have any suggestions to fix this other than getting the angle grinder out? I have a 2" suspension lift planned but presume that, even after this, the panhard rod will still impact the axle guard under articulation - though possibly not if I fit +2" bump stops. Your thoughts and opinions are gratefully received.
  5. If anyone is interested, I tested this set up at Parkwood at Tong on Sunday and it works well, just remember to pull the hose out when you're done wading - I found a small qantity of oil in mine, I can only presume the crank/camshaft/(both?) oil seal(s) are leaking, lucky I have the timing belt planned for next month and can get it done at the same time.
  6. Thanks for that, I gave them a call and they do do mail order, its £10+vat and they wanted £94+vat for the kit which works out around £125 delivered. I used their website to find a local distributer though and realised the place I buy most of my parts is a Bearmach distributer. They (MPB Keighley) have got the same kit on ebay (solid crank pulley and dayco belt) for £87 delivered which is a bit easier on the pocket. Thanks for the pointer, it got me where I wanted in the end!
  7. I'm not familiar with the disco 3 but have they given any reason for not being able to remove the bolt from the housing? Whatever this housing is, if it comes off the vehicle, even the worst machinist should be able to remove the sheared bolt and at worst helicoil the hole. Good luck whichever way you choose to go.
  8. I've been giving the breathers a thought since I bought a snorkel and I haven't found anything broken on the car for a while. They all seem fairly straight forward except the timing case breather because, if you have air-con (or an on board air system powered by an air-con pump like me), then the inspection cover where most kits place the timing case breather is replaced by the tensioner arm for the air-con belt. So I got to thinking, which generally ends up with something breaking, but in the end I just bolted a push fit elbow into the timing case wading plug hole and have an extension to the axle/transfer box/gear box breather system which I push in or pull out instead of bolting in the wading plug. Can anyone think of a reason why this would cause any issues? When the pipe is pulled out there is no obstruction and the timing case can drain freely if there is an oil leak and when I shove the pipe in its vented to atmosphere above the water line so hopefully wont draw water in through any gaskets. Your thoughts and opinions are gratefully received.
  9. Can anyone suggest where the best place to buy the bearmach equipment via mail order might be?
  10. If anyone is interested, I changed both front calipers for new units and its still pulling under braking. I'm presuming rear brakes wouldnt do this, would they? I take it I need to look at bushes next, can anyone tell me which ones?
  11. I'd love for it to be that simple. it pulls left and the stuck caliper is on the right so I don't think its that. Rear might be stuck too though, haven't looked at them for a while, probably ought to check the pads.
  12. yep, front anti roll bar, I like both these ideas, thanks. I'll have to fix the sodding stuck caliper I discovered whilst changing the pads today before I think about sorting this though. Cheers for the ideas!
  13. Hi all, I took the disco in for wheel alignment the other day as its been pulling left a while and I thought it'd be best to sort it out so I dont ruin my tyres. Anyway, it came back from the garage doing the same thing, I thought the mechanic hadn't done his job properly but having a poke about underneath I notice the ARB mount on the right is bent forward, would this make the car steer left? My idea is that if its pushing the right side of the axle forward it would make the car steer left, or am I being thick? Oh and how do I fix this? My thought is a big hammer but just a bit worried the mount might snap off, I suppose I could always take the ARB off completely. Any opinions will be gratefully received.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy