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Adam001 last won the day on August 19 2014

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About Adam001

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  1. Duralac i am told is very good stuff too. Personally I have galv'd basically everything, have stainless almost everywhere (ooooo shiny) and have either EDPM or PVC gaskets or shims between all areas.
  2. For reference, the earlier BTR5779 belts clip into the puma seats no problem.
  3. Figured I would update this for others. Rebuilt this carrier now and more than happy with it (for now). Cleaned the shaft up, bearing did not need to be pressed on but is not visibly loose so went for loctite 660 small bead around the shaft just behind the threads, then pushed and spun the bearing around to make sure it had a even coverage New nut etc and torqued up correctly In future I don't think I would hesitate to do this again, these loctite products get great reviews Adam
  4. I'm guessing you are using the bolt on gearbox brackets onto the chassis? If so it won't match up anyway with the gear lever hole. Are your sills and seatbox bolted in the correct places?
  5. Got the bits from Ashcroft, forgot to order diff thrust washers so once I've got those ill rebuild this bit and pop some photos up should others get the same issue!
  6. I figure the failure mode would be pretty slow to represent, probably start with slightly higher oil temperature from the friction then as it wears more cause a misalignment in the gear mesh and wear the bearing out. Failure of the bearing/shaft could happy at some point but guessing it would take quite some time!! Considering the one on my 300k mile box had spun i'm doubtful anything would really go bang! I'm not that worried, just don't like doing things badly and knowing it's like it means sods law is not far behind! Ignorance is bliss!
  7. So I think my summary on this is it's a poor design! Mine is not too bad, more of a clearance fit with a worn bearing (I'll put up photos later). I'm going to use it, it's likely a new bearing will remove some clearance and then I plan to use a bearing retainer, just need to decide between loctite 620 or 660 for the application. 660 makes sense but 620 i think is stronger.
  8. Yeah I'm hanging in that conflict now, between rebuilding my not too bad, but worn, shaft (58mm), buying a new replacement for around £400 or just going for the ATB (Which to be honest I don't need). I'm surprised it's not a topic discussed more often as it seems really common! Curious! Is it the earlier 53mm selector spline or later 58mm spline?
  9. Scrap that, found the later differential, LR055682, even more expensive!! I really doubt reconditioners replace them at that massive price and make a profit
  10. Yeah I've done exactly that. Bought a disco II box with no diff lock hoping for a unabused box. Lovely clean oil but still the problem with the bearing. Seems a complete gamble! There's another thread on here from back in 2010 which also didn't get a conclusion on this bearing issue. So thinking ill probably need to get a new diff centre I've hit another problem...they don't seem to exist. There are 2 types, one with the small splines, FRC7926 which seems to be superceded to FTC5207 but the larger spline one I can't find anywhere! Unless all the sites have it wrong and FTC5207 is not a su
  11. Yeah that's where I'm at, makes me wonder about reconditioned transfer boxes to be honest (from less reputable people that is) so far on the 3 boxes I've stripped many components are out of "spec", such as yokes, and dog clutches, intermediate shafts etc. I struggle to think I've got 3 that are out of the ordinary. So how do they make money when they should be replacing so many components! Hmm Daves pretty good, sure he'll come back to me monday/Tuesday or something.
  12. Hi, Questioning myself here. I bought a LT230 transfer box the other day to rebuild. When I got down to the differential shaft/housing it has 2 bearings, one on each end. The end that goes up against the diff (diff bolted end) was tight and came off with a puller. The other end which has the large 2 flats staked nut and has all the output gears etc just came off, no puller/press needed. I figured this meant the bearing had spun and the housing needed replacing, these are super expensive so decided to just get another box...was the same!! So I took apart the one on my truck, same again!
  13. Hi, I currently have a EA chassis ignition lock and a later model rear door with the FUB500060 mech. Trying to just have 1 key for the ignition barrel and the rear door but don't know which set I need. Anyone able to help? Happy to swap the full steering lock/switch if needed. Not worried about the doors, removing all the barrels and just using central locking. Cheers, Adam
  14. Yeah that's what I was thinking but I imagine they must have changed the brackets for a reason, not cheap these belts so want to at least try and get the right ones. Can always return I guess. I will probably default that way if at a loss. Anyone else done it at all?
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