Jump to content

Adam001

Settled In
  • Content count

    744
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Adam001 last won the day on August 19 2014

Adam001 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

11 Good

About Adam001

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nantwich

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Adam001

    Bulkhead exterior soundproofing

    My experience and a chunk of research shows that this works well... Layer 1 - Damper sheets (dynamat or whatever). Strong note here, it is completely pointless covering everything with this, you literally need a small amount on unstiffened panels only to remove the resonant vibration. Layer 2 - foil backed closed cell foam. glued down, seal each piece together with aluminium foil tape and cover the area. Does many things, adds noise and heat insulation, acts as a vapour barrier to stop warm interior air holding moisture hitting the cold exterior panel and it stops the passage of air which carries loads of sound. Layer 3 - As mentioned Mass Loaded Vinyl. This works by moving, you must not glue it down. Idea is it is so heavy it can absorb lots of energy, as sound waves hit it it moves slightly and eliminates it through dampening. Because you can't glue it it's a pain to handle on anything that isn't horizontal, you can bolt or pin it etc. Some have a felt like backing to help stop it sliding, but it's so heavy you normally don't have a problem anyway. Adam
  2. Adam001

    headlight bulb upgrade options

    If some people are concerned or thinking that osram nightbreakers do not last as long, then you are correct. Osram display this clearly on the packaging, rated for around half the life of a normal bulb. They are brighter as they burn hotter on the same wattage so just don't last as long and are more vulnerable to vibration. There are alternatives though, I have Phillips X-treme vision bulbs in mine, not quite as bright but superior in life span, still don't expect them to last as long as their base version though. Sure there are other options too, Nightbreakers are just more well known about, doesn't mean they are necessarily the better option. Last time I heard about nightbreakers someone said... "Night breakers, yeah, because they break....at night...when you need them" 😂
  3. Adam001

    Recovery mods

    Yes, I know. Hence why i said they can be hit. Why are people still talking about the same thing?
  4. Adam001

    Recovery mods

    Hi Woody, If you want to go the steering guard route, go for it. The comments people are saying about them here have nothing to do with their ability to be used as a recovery point. My view is it will be stronger than a Jate ring equivalent as it uses additional points and also benefits from clamp loading on the chassis so has the potential to be far stronger. Yes steering guards are not the best steering protection as the bars can still be hit, I personally bought one as a chunk of tree managed to get up and bend my steering damper, it also serves as a perfectly adequate recovery point for me as the side bars on my winch bumper are standard thickness and not suitable which I would have otherwise used. Access being the guards only real downside. Cheers, Adam
  5. Adam001

    Recovery mods

    Hi, For strops you basically have lots of choice, a 10T+ rated one is usually best. If you need one for mud plugging recovery type stuff a spliced type recovery rope are pretty good as they allow some stretch which can really help to reduce strain on the recovery points. As for recovery points, I'm not a fan of jate rings as they fix onto chassis holes that generally do not have crush tubes and they need to allow some movement so put a huge amount of strain in the wrong direction on the chassis. Basically the chassis holes can become to elongate. For the rear personally a rear tow setup works brilliantly, a NATO hitch or ball and pin setup in place of the tradiation ball works well. For the front either tow loops that piggy back on the front bumper bolting points (better still is a HD bumper which has them integrated) or you can use a steering guard with recovery eyes, as they bolt to the chassis in lots of places. Downside is they are quite low so can be a pain to access in a ditch! There will be plenty of opinions naturally! Adam
  6. Adam001

    Santana PS10 doors onto 110

    Hi, So I currently have a 1988 110, when I restored it I couldn't stretch for new/not rotted to death front and middle doors so I opted for a clean set of series 109 doors. These have been great, but the draft, water ingress and small window openings I find a pain and I want to eventually solve this by moving back to defender doors. So I've been offered a set of 2005 Santana PS10 Doors in swap for mine, they are in pretty good nick, steel skins need some repair etc and really appear to be quite comparable to defender doors. I know sourcing parts for them will be a right pain and I accept I'll need to fabricate bits if something internal goes wrong. But what I'm after is does anyone know if the fitment is the same, i.e defender hinges go straight on and the striker plates will line up somewhere sensible on the B and C posts? I'm pretty sure it's all fine, wondering if anyone else has done it? Cheers, Adam
  7. Be mindful of the fact that having different sized tires on the same axle can be construed as a construction and use offense and can land you with a fine and points under a myriad of different charge codes. But it is a massive can or worms. If you do go for the "space saver" approach make sure you do the reading up (don't take my word for it) and label it up so it is clear if you do get pulled over for it, I believe it essentially has to be clear that it is for emergency use only and a get me home item. Same applies for using inner tubes these days
  8. Adam001

    Bonnet stay . prop what one

    These are mine... http://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/gas-strut-medium--heavy-duty-270-p.asp Post 101 is how I fitted them... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76920&p=722159 With both fitted, when opening the bonnet the balance point for it to hold the spare wheel up is around 6-10 inches above the radiator. While I don't remember if I tested it or not if one did fail, the other would probably still hold it.
  9. Adam001

    Bonnet stay . prop what one

    You are not wrong. But I must admit I much prefer having the gas struts do the lifting on mine when there's a full 265/75 on the bonnet...
  10. Oh, google acoustic foam (The egg box looking stuff), we use it for all sorts of automotive applications, it's brill.
  11. Kingspan type panelling is not bad, or sheeting of foam wrapped around the box it's in. The best thing you can do is to isolate it, put some nice big blocks of rubber under the feet. Getting it out of the garage altogether is better though, seen people put little lean-tos on the side of the garage for this kind of thing. Didn't read...
  12. Adam001

    Where have you put your second battery

    Aye no different to agriculture equipment or lorries, all external I went for over rear wheel as I also have a large capacity battery in the battery box along with some other bits
  13. Adam001

    Can some one explain

    Yes doesn't matter with a new part. The reason you do it with a old one is any surface corrosion will match back up when you put it back on again. I don't personally but then I always clean the components and emery them if needs be.
  14. Adam001

    Quad Cam Twin Turbo RV8

    Can't say it's not a beautiful build, but can't help thinking that's a awful lot of effort on a rover V8
  15. Hi, sorry missed this, got your PM. Not familiar with the 2.0 MPI but you would need either A) P38 input shaft in a Defender R380 gearbox with a P38 2.5DSE bellhousing or... B) Defender R380 gearbox with the specific M52B28 defender bellhousing Option A is much easier to get hold of but the engine will be inclined by approximately 11 degrees from nominal. Option B is the same as factory fit but that bellhousing is extremely hard to get hold of. Both options take the P38 dual mass flywheel and clutch arrangement. I fitted mine using option A with the gearbox on 200tdi mounts and custom engine brackets onto the factory 200tdi chassis mounts, I did not weld the chassis in any way. If you have a 300tdi/TD5 base chassis then the engine sits slightly further back but I believe is just as straightforward, but the incline with option A may then become a problem. South african cars were based off the 300tdi/TD5 chassis. In general though a good read of my build thread and Andrews will give you most of the knowledge straight away. Good luck.
×

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy