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Adam001 last won the day on August 19 2014

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  1. Yeah that's what I was thinking but I imagine they must have changed the brackets for a reason, not cheap these belts so want to at least try and get the right ones. Can always return I guess. I will probably default that way if at a loss. Anyone else done it at all?
  2. Hi all, I'm fitting puma seats to the 2nd row of my defender 110. I've sourced all the bits I need but I'm a little stuck on seatbelts as I don't have any. My defender is a 1988 and I have 300tdi interior trims which would suggest I need BTR5779 on both sides. Question is, will these connect with the receivers on the seats or do I need EVL000080PMA/EVL000090PMA from the td5 or later still the EVL501580PMA from the puma, but I'm not sure if these later ones will mount on the C post. Anyone done it and know for sure? Adam
  3. Hi all, Got a lockdown task for those of you with nice 110s. I'm realigning my body and don't have ideal doors. Could some of you kind folks get some measurements for me. Something like what I've done below so I can compare?! I have the standard panel gapping docs but I find they don't cover everything like total opening sizes Thanks, Adam
  4. Thanks retroanaconda! Do you have the full manual for that? I may look to swap all the bushes and take the opportunity to remove the axle and give it a proper look over!
  5. Yeah I'm thinking that's the obvious next step although as I'm writing this I'm wondering if my bushes could have alot to do with it. Does anyone have a link to specifications for the axle in regards to backlash etc?
  6. Measuring the backlash from the pinion I take it? Sounds good though, I know ours has been cared for as it's been with us since around 34000 miles. I've noticed in the last 2 years things such as speed bumps can caused kangarooing. Which leads me to the rear axle or transfer box as the other items I have worked on recently so know are unlikely culprits
  7. Hi all, So while in isolation I'm pondering the never ending list of jobs for the defender. Next being the rear salisbury on my 110. It's got 297000 miles on it now. It's got a ton of slack in the diff (not the flanges, those are new) so I'm wondering whether rebuilding it is a feasible task and would remove the slack (I like to repair things and not scrap them!) Or if I'm being silly and should swap to a lower mileage unit or swap to the later rover style rear axle. What do you think? Anyone tackled a unit with this many miles on? Truck is not a heavy off roader, road use and greenlaning for me..I do have a 450ish Nm engine though Adam
  8. No idea actually, don't know if the lt85 had a different tunnel or if it just used one or the another
  9. So the LT77 tunnel is definately different to the R380. The gearstick hole sits approximately 20mm further back than the r380 version. Which makes sense as I believe the r380 sits around 20mm further forward. In this instance I cant swap to the r380 casing as it will clash with the differential lock lever. Doh, custom fabrication for me then!!
  10. That's Brill thank you! Will get mine measured up and will post back for others
  11. That would be ace if you could! Yeah figured I would need to swap the seatbox/bulkhead flanges too, I need to do a whole body realignment soon, so this will be the easy bit hopefully 😅
  12. Howdo. So my defender has had a R380 in for a little while (m52 now m57 engine). Mine was a 19J originally so I have the LT230 on the bolt on mounts. Currently I have the lt77 tunnel fitted but I'm not happy with the fit on the LHS as I have a cooler fitted and I need more clearance. Question is, if i swap to the r380 tunnel will the shifter hole line up? Adam
  13. Not heard of that one. It's technically a more efficient engine than the TD5 so I wouldn't have thought it would be a problem in normal driving. Is it when charging up a hill for example?
  14. Ah ok. Was confused on the chassis part of it. In that case this might be quite easy. Just cut off the chassis mounts and weld on some posts/nuts to secure it down and bend some simple brackets for the tops. I would use the V8 rad but there's no space to get the intercooler pipes through unless you start cutting at the wings which I don't fancy!
  15. Cheers for that, blimey some of those brackets are worth more than the rads! If you don't need the bonnet stay, how many of the bits are actually needed do you know?
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