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Adam001 last won the day on August 19 2014

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  1. Right brill. James is bob on with the rail, mine has no captive nuts so is placed on the outside of my body being a 1988 with the TD5 style crossmember. Learnt something new, photos on google were really confusing me then! Will have to amass some parts and give this a good go, doesn't seem too bad but my car has lots of repair sections (Including the full tub floor, upstand etc) so who knows!!
  2. "Once lined up a check from the vertical door seal edge of the rear tub to the bulkhead A post rear face should confirm position , then shims and washers as required " Didn't quite understand this bit? Hmm sealing doors would be nice!
  3. Curious! My chassis (marsland) has a adjustable rear tub support strip. How thoughts how I tackle that going back to front?
  4. That's great cheers. Guess I just use my existing doors to gauge the existing spacing. Anyone have any guidance on how to tackle this completely. I'm guessing the start point is to set the bulkhead perfectly perpendicular and square on the chassis and then adjust everything else off that?
  5. Yeah fair point. I masked up my garage with polythene in a dexters lab fashion with a big extractor fan but yes a booth would be so much better!
  6. Hi all! So I rebuilt my 110 (1988) about 7 years ago and I did not consider door alignment, really, at all! I was concentrating so much on galvanic corrosion and adding gaskets I didn't realise how much I affected the door gaps, which are now awful, which combined with series doors is a recipe for wind and water! So I could do with some advice on how best to re-align the whole body. I also plan to change the B-C-Sill section for a YRM galv one as mine is getting tired. Had a good hunt through the forums but couldn't find much, most are to do with the challenge of repairing the rust in these areas! What have others done in regards to aligning the gaps down the body, is there a good step by step process to follow, front to back etc? I would like to avoid removing the seat box as my electrics are heavily dependent on it. Cheers, Adam
  7. Just to complete this thread. I completed my respray to this method and the results are good... Clean down the whole car DA sand the whole body with 180 and 240grit, 80 grit for corroded ally to take it down to metal and feather out the edges back to good paint - This process literally took weeks of evenings and weekends to complete, the roof was very bad! Wash, White spirit, Panel wipe, tack rag 2 light coats of rattle can etch primer separated by 20mins on all bare aluminium or HDG steel areas - Halfords etch turned out to be very good. Let cure for 24 hours with a heater Sand back down to 240 grit Wash, White spirit, Panel wipe, tack rag Apply primer to the whole car, around 2 coats split by 30mins using a HVLP siphon gun with 2.2 needle, mixed with 20% thinner operating at around 40psi (Using this stuff... https://www.paints4trade.com/military-vehicle-qd-anti-corrosive-hi-build-primer-2150-p.asp) Let cure for 24 hours with a heater Wet sand primer to 400g Wash, White spirit, panel wipe, tack rag 4 light coats of enamel, applied same as the primer but at 20psi (This stuff... https://www.paints4trade.com/military-vehicle-paint-2151-p.asp) Grab a beer.. I actually did a two tone with roof and bonnet a different colour so I waited 5 days before masking the body up to do the roof. It's not showroom but not bad at all. Time will tell. Might be of use to someone.
  8. I would remove and inspect the column link and UJs and if they all look ok I would replace/repair the steering box and not drive the car. Just not worth the risk. Worth checking all the balljoints too for play.
  9. I wondered this for my BMW ECU. I fitted mine behind my Mudstuff center console. But I've now moved it into the engine bay itself. I placed it in a sealed ABS box along with all the engine management related relays and fuses. It's located in front on the the heater box where it's well protected. Working well so far and de-clutters the cabin nicely.
  10. Hey, Thanks for the info. Really helpful, will save myself the time on the prep, unfortunately the anti corrosive primer is the only one they offered, figured it didn't really matter though. I'll have a look what cap I have for my gun too. Also the Sikaflex, reading the tech sheet it is sandable and paintable, just have to be willing to wait for it to fully sure before doing so Thanks, Adam
  11. Hi All, Looking for some advice / confirmation on my approach to giving my landy a lick of new paint. There really isn't as much advice on the internet for the combination of Aluminium, etch, primer and enamel as you might think. Could those that have done it before confirm if my approach is solid?... Clean down the whole car DA sand the whole body with 180 and 240grit (Not removing all the paint, down to 80grit for dodgy areas etc) Apply body filler and sikaflex 291 to sort dents and seal up roof seams/gutters DA sand down to 320grit Wash, Panel wipe, tack rag Use rattle can etch primer on any bare aluminium or HDG steel areas Let cure for 1-2 hours, no sanding Apply primer to the whole car, around 2 coats split by 10mins using a HVLP gun, mixed with 10% thinner operating at around 25-30psi (Using this stuff... https://www.paints4trade.com/military-vehicle-qd-anti-corrosive-hi-build-primer-2150-p.asp) Wet sand primer after around 6 hours to 400g Wash, panel wipe, tack rag 2-3 coats of enamel, applied same as the primer (This stuff... https://www.paints4trade.com/military-vehicle-paint-2151-p.asp) Grab a beer... Thoughts, anything you would do differently? Cheer, Adam
  12. Those are waeco heated seat elements. I know as I installed a set in mine and I clearly recognise the connector, they are good in my opinion. Wiring is simple, think it takes 12V across one circuit for low heat and dual 12v for high. if you want I can photo my wiring kit and you can replicate? Send me a pm if so as I may miss this.
  13. (Defender 110 pre-TD5, flat bonnet) Hi All, Has anyone got a clever way of mounting a alloy spare wheel onto their bonnet (Pre-TD5). I currently have a steel wheel carrier on mine, like this... https://www.paddockspares.com/pm1131-defender-bonnet-spare-wheel-carrier-steel-wheels-only.html I have all the strengthening ribs on my bonnet and I have my own Heavy Duty gas rams so I want to keep the spare there, problem is, it doesn't work with alloys, anyone got a alloy on their bonnet? Cheers, Adam
  14. My experience and a chunk of research shows that this works well... Layer 1 - Damper sheets (dynamat or whatever). Strong note here, it is completely pointless covering everything with this, you literally need a small amount on unstiffened panels only to remove the resonant vibration. Layer 2 - foil backed closed cell foam. glued down, seal each piece together with aluminium foil tape and cover the area. Does many things, adds noise and heat insulation, acts as a vapour barrier to stop warm interior air holding moisture hitting the cold exterior panel and it stops the passage of air which carries loads of sound. Layer 3 - As mentioned Mass Loaded Vinyl. This works by moving, you must not glue it down. Idea is it is so heavy it can absorb lots of energy, as sound waves hit it it moves slightly and eliminates it through dampening. Because you can't glue it it's a pain to handle on anything that isn't horizontal, you can bolt or pin it etc. Some have a felt like backing to help stop it sliding, but it's so heavy you normally don't have a problem anyway. Adam
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