Adam001
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Posts posted by Adam001
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Hey,
I have a 110 with a discovery 200tdi engine. I would like to install a second alternator to provide some redundancy while on trips, and for some additional current without requiring a heavy duty alternator (which I would only kill anyway, and would rather only need to swap cheap 65amp alts lol)
I have read the most convienient place is where the current air con unit goes. So I intend to fabricate a bracket to fit it there. I am not sure how the belt would work. I have a spare groove on the crank pulley for the air con, I take it there is a tensioner for that belt to route it? Also would the alternator rev correctly?
Sorry for all the questions. I know lots have done this conversion before, but I am struggling to find pictures and information of there installations. Any help would be brilliant
(p.s. just drove 80 miles without the alternator charging
)Cheers
Adam
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There are lots of guides on the net that cover the conversion. But to be honest none of them are complete as there are differences from each conversion. This is assuming you are doing a 200 disco engine conversion
I just did it and found a few things different to the guides.
The engine drops straight in. using the TD engine mounts bolted to the 200 block, one side is straightforward the other you have a choice of two positions (check the guide I cant remember which). Use new ones for the sake of £3 each
The clutches are the same, but I would recommend getting a new clutch (AP Driveline, borg and beck replacement)
The engine flywheel housing will fit the TD bellhousing, however you will need to tap a few holes for some additional studs to make a good job out of it. Or swap the flywheel housings, but that is alot more effort unless you plan to change the crank seal
You need to use the TD oil cooler pipes, but depending on the 200 unit, you may need to swap the oil filter housing to use the pipes as some connections are different. You may also have to swap the connections on the radiator.
Fuel pipes are a odd one, and I am still having issues with them. Find the simplest solution (possibly the TD filter) and stick with it.
For the power steering, the disco high pressure line fits fine, although it will sit away from the chassis crossmember, so you will need to find a secure way of holding it. I welded on a section of box. The low pressure line I used a combination of TD and 200 parts.
The best way to do the intercooler pipes is to buy a kit, and the intake piping you can make a good job using 200 and TD parts with a joiner piece and the existing air cleaner, but you will need to cut a leg off the air filter assembly to make room for the intercooler pipe. It is tight but a better solution than some I have seen.
Don't bother making your own exhaust manifold, it is far easier to buy a kit, the one on ebay is not fantastic but it does the job, you need to hack up the old exhaust a bit, but it's no drama. The more expensive steve parker one would be better by the looks of it.
The radiator mounts need cutting down slightly then you can fit the 200 rad/intercooler combo straight in and bolt onto the existing top mounts. it will lean slightly. The coolant pipes a good solution can be made through joining 200 and TD parts very nicely with a few metal joiners.
Wiring, I kept the 200 wiring loom as it was much better than the TD loom, with a better charging line for the alternator etc. I then soldered the wires onto the exisiting loom. It is all straight forward and the haynes wiring diagrams are all correct. Otherwise just use the TD wires and just plug them in, they all reach and fit no problems. There is alot of random talk about coolant sensors, however if you put the TD sensor into the 200 block it works fine, mine sits just under vertical on the gauge at running temperature.
Good luck with it
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Yes, although it is easier to use breathers on the timing case and bellhousing, just remember to drain them every so often
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At the bottom of the bell housing and timing case (both at the lowest point) there is a threaded hole, normally there is a threaded plug that goes in when wading and then it needs to be taken off once you have finished your trip A) to let the water out which can still get in B) the hole is there to let oil out from destroying the clutch and timing belt.
Thats why having push fit connectors isnt the best of ideas, however all you need to do is pull the tube off every so often and check there is no oil.
HTH
Dave.
Ah ok, I understand you know. I have breathers on both said points. I leave them disconnected for normal road use though
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extending is what caused the problems, as the connection on the lift pump is the flared pipe type using the plastic pipe. so had to cut it and put fuel hose over it to extend it.
Which standard pipe will do the trick? 200 disco or defender? where can I get it from?
Cheers, Adam
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Oh ok, is that a disco or defender pipe? will it reach ok then?
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yeah the standard tank to lift pump pipe is fine, the problem one is the lift pump to filter line. the 200 line is too short to reach the bulkhead
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Hey,
I recently finished a 200 disco engine conversion in my 110 (2.5TD 19J), it went well apart from the fuel pipes. I thought the 200 fuel fitler would be better so set about using that but neither the 200 or TD pipes seemed to do the job. I now have a horrid combination of fuel pipes, and I have been riddled with leaks
What has everyone else done on the fuel pipe front while using the 200 disco fuel filter?
Happy new year!
Regards
Adam
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Incorrect. They may use the wading plug thread, or not, but they do not replace the dual functions a wading plug serves...
I only bought the kit as it was the first thing I bought for the landy along with the snorkel, I needed to make sure I had good wading kit before I went to Wales during that severe weather we had a few months back. I always go for the most economic option normally
Could you explain what you mean by the wading plugs? I have breathers permenantly coming off the two current holes, is this wrong?
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That's terrible!
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I just fitted a breather kit from ebay, cost around £25, but for the hassle of getting the bits it's easier in the long run.
The kits should come with replacement breathers for the front and rear axles, replacement breathers for the gearbox and transfer case and new breathers to fit the bell housing and timing case which remove the need for wading plugs
I fitted mine and ran the lines up to the snorkel, fit and forget
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Dual/Twin Alternator set-up 200tdi
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
When I went to buy a new alternator, I found myself getting a 100amp unit on the basis that it would last!
Although I would still like a second alternator, so any help would be great