Adam001
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Posts posted by Adam001
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If you have £300 the best thing you can buy is a Tracker (assuming the car means something to you and you want to get the car back, regardless of what damage they might do)
Then just get a simple £100 clifford or similar and DIY install it as a deterrent
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Hi,
After a few ideas, I have very recently rebuilt my car as a few of you know. Shortly after (100miles), the engine cut out, power dropped then died, bit of cranking and it started, spluttered a bit then cleared. So figured a air lock from being dry had just found it's way to the pump.
Until 30mins ago, when it cut out, in typical fashion on a A road roundabout (Good job it's a defender and I could drive straight ontop of it!)
It now has ~300miles on it since the rebuild. The fuel system is standard configuration with the 200 discovery engine (8mm fuel pipe to lift pump, then to filter then to injection pump then back in open loop to the tank).
This time when it died it was very difficult to start, when it did I could barely drive it (plumes of white smoke, so underfuelling), got it to a side road then after a bit got it to idle properly and drove it home without any issues.
So any thoughts? All connections are secure. I didn't replace the lift pump as part of the rebuild so I am thinking that is at fault.
Oh and as we all like pictures...a picture of the fail...
Thanks,
Adam
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What's wrong with the standard position? Sure they're pointing at the floor but I'm not sure something in the front face of the seatbox would be any better!
Headlining is a popular one, for some reason. I guess they're closer to your ears so one needs less power to be heard, but personally I've never had any issue with the normal under-dash location. Make the car quieter, not the radio louder
All mine are in the headlining, I did it purely from a packaging point of view, the standard position wouldn't fit a uprated speaker without spacers which I wanted to avoid for leg room. Also helps that they won't get wet
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The stuff from paints4trade is pretty good, can't speak for the chassis paint but I just resprayed the whole of mine with their enamel paint and it was superb
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haven't had any problems with the Vee belt on mine, been using it for over 10 years, I only fit Dayco belts to alt & PAS.
No issues on mine either now I'm also on a dayco belt...still, didn't stop me putting a 13mm belt on the second alternator mind!
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Done the same, mine had a printout power curve of 130amps (all the 100amp alternators are a bit different)...It doesn't like belts, although the belt on there now is genuine and holding fine.
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Rip off the anti roll bars! Free!
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You can always go Bonnet Mounted. (Or both!)
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Blimey. I've been checking Gwyns site for about two years looking for one of those!!! I didn't know he had more options on ebay!
Does that guard plate at the front cover up the hole for checking the timing? Not a big deal I suppose...
It does cover up the timing hole, no dramas really, very easy to tension it up
It looks simple and effective.Any part # of that Renault alternator you are using?
Part no in photo...
I opted to use a 13mm pulley to work with the ac pulley, far superior to the 10mm belts
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As requested...
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I'll grab the number for you tomorrow. I have just re-sprayed my car so can't lift the bonnet!
My bracket only works with the air compressor, that's why I went for my own solution.
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The White Red Wire tells the relay when you are trying to start the car and turns off the plugs while you are cranking. It will work with or without the feed, it will just act as a normal timer.
I have PRC6913 and it is wired up exactly the same as yours. I don't understand why the relay wouldn't work with that wire connected unless the wiring or relay was at fault
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If that fails earlier in my build thread it shows the fairly simple bracket and pivot
So long as you have reasonable welding skills it's not too hard to fab something up. -
Peugeot 306 seats, very simple to fit. Purchase 5 door front seat versions (I have the half leather ones) remove the lower components / trim etc and bolt the rails back on spaced off the seat frame with 1" box section, the rails will now be narrower so you need to cut the adjusting bar to make the rails narrower.Then just bolt them to some 3mm angle iron and bolt those to the standard defender mounting points.
That's just what I've done, there are plenty of other options. I don't have the centre seat, imagine it would be a struggle to put that in, possible though.
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You can get repair sections for the C pillar from YRM. I bought them for my repair (detailed in my project thread), worked perfectly. I also modified mine to allow the C section to be unbolted from the sill and B section.
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Generally, good DIY practice is to switch anything higher than 10amps with a relay. I personally would definitely use a relay with a 15amp work light.
In theory everything you mention is within range (16amp cable for 15amp, 15amp socket and 15amp light on a 30amp feed etc) but really you are right on the limits and I would suggest running a new feed for the light (30amp cable) on a relay and keeping the socket on the existing 30amp feed with a 20amp fuse.
As for the switch. the light takes power from the output of the switch, so when you turn it on the light gets a feed and goes to the earth to illuminate.
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10mm (9.5)
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Its the princips of a bypass, to pick up a dip of oil, clean it and then bring it back into the reguarly cycle... so the main oil, still runs through the regular filter (which has no real deep cleaning function anyhow).
Another aspect I think is the guarantee.... if you do any changes on the mashine, the car company might say: No more guarantee... so with the bypass system you dont change anything of the original mashine, instead you complete it with an extra filter service. Its some tricky legal aspects behind. :-)
Erm...it would invalidate the warranty
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oh.... part of my sentence has disappeared I should better re-read in the pre-view before clicking post... so tks tipping on these disturbing numbers.
The correct sentence should have be:
The extra bypass filters are 99% efficient with filtering down to 0.1 micron while the normal filters only have a cleaning effect down to 40-50 microns,
0.1 Microns??? So then, if you are selling them, can you tell me what the flow rate is and at what pressure? Quite Frankly 0.1microns is totally unreasonable given the size of the filter in these photos, if the medium was water then yeah, I might be able to believe it.
Ah you say it only takes a part of the oil, how is it plumbed in?
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Great news!
thanks everyone We wont find out until forensics have finished with it how much damage has been done, or things missing... hopefully they wont have had time to do much, the police were really on the ball. Hope our winch etc is still there!I didn't realised we'd have to pay to get it back from the police, seems a little unjust that we have our 90 robbed, then we have to pay for recovery - I also didn't know as we have informed the insurance company, we automatically lose our 7 years no claims, even if we don't actually claim from them... Maybe i'm a little naive to the ways of insurace nowadays but seems a little harsh.
Pretty sure that is lies....when I last had a car accident, I had the option to pay all fees and not affect the insurance. Check your terms and conditions or get in contact with a advise bureau
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Have you missed the calliper Brackets or is English failing me?
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That's just the thing, there are many combinations of parts that can be used to give you a bolt on solution (like mine) or a fabricated solution.
I've done it, and even I'm now confused! To remember what parts I have used I would need to strip it all down! lol
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I wouldn't propose it's the fusebox. Do you have a Haynes Manual or wiring diagram? You will need one to trace the fault.
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Sounds like you found a gem.
That really is seriously low mileage, mine started as a 1988 and I now have 285'000 miles on mine! Has it been stored up at some point in it's life?
200tdi Cutting Out
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Good call, didn't think of that, I'll have a look. Where can you get pump parts? Or is a rebuilt item the only way?
Starting wise it starts instantly every time apart from 1 day where it took a fraction longer, enough for me to think at the time "hmm that was different, meh it's probably nothing"