gti-90

I have the tyres. Just the rims I need. Either steels or alloys. Not Realy for offroad, but doesn't matter if there offroad "type" But not beadlocks due to road use and insurance etc. Thankyou.

Hi Monkie. Either good secondhand or new. I was thinking original landrover would be 7 width. I need 8 or possibly 10.

Hello. Looking for suggestions of wheel rim types to fit 300 defender axles. 8x16 can be steel or alloy. Can only seem to find modulars and "challenger" rims on Googl.e, I'm looking for something a little more or different. Budget upto 150 a corner. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Tetsu0san, i think looking into the future for ease of parts/reliability etc off the shelf standard 300tdi is the way to go. I think ile go with option 3 and or 4. Disco engine box and lt230 in standard posistion with later defender 90 props. Gear selector kit, Then all hoses upfront etc should fit. Mounts etc are easy enough as i can "weld"ish! Things to do while its out.. i will have a go at the timing belt (never done 1 but im sure its in the tech archive), degrease and paint. New p gasket, core plugs how easy are these? And somewhere it was mentioned about a rear oil seal?... Thanks for the replies jack Edit just seen your new reply. I have the standard 2.5n/a seatbox and tunnel slightly modified to fit the zf4hp22 a little bit stretched its tight but fits. I do however have a td5 bulkhead and tunnel so fitting that box will be ok. Ile just need to modify the seat box face a bit rounder. The 90s just undergone a realy smart spray job so its got to be tidy.

Hi doug, i will probably be wrong, but reading elswhere on the web it would seem there is no difference in bellhousing or input shaft betweeen the two? The part numbers for the bellhousings are the same FTC3921?.. I no that r380s on to 200tdi need the stumpy bell housing. Vulcan bomber, the slave cylinder shouldnt cause a issue should it? Just route the pipes to suit?

Hi Lewis, I was under the idea that defender and disco gearboxes were the same? Just the shifter mech different. The idea I had to use 300tdi props was to put the lt230 in 300tdi position than the engine would be in the factory 300tdi defender posistion? This would not be the case if there different. thanks

Hi all, i know engine conversions have been covered many times before, so apologies. But theres alot of conflicting ideas and theories it would seem to whats longer and shorter etc. I want to put a 300tdi and r380 from a disco into my 86 90. Was 2.5n/a converted to 3.9 but a change is needed. If i use standard defender 300tdi props connected to my early lt230, it should be in standard posistion? correct? Then the engine should be in "standard" 300tdi posistion?. And all standard off the shelf parts should fit? Ashcrofts do a Selector rail kit that allows use of a defender gear stick. Will i need to modify seat box and tunnel? Also what is worth doing on 300 before fitting? Water pump gasket? Timing belt? What else? thanks

Well its that time of year again. Ile be going, was going to try selling but cba. Sunday 6th sept skipton auction mart.

Anybody going this Sunday? Skipton auction Mart? I've been to the last three and they've got bigger better, and it's 5 mins away.

Thanks western. I should have put its the location of said wires onto the sender itself thats got me stumped... Cheers

Hi all Put a new side mounted tank in, a year or so passed between wiring up, can't workout which way round sender wires go on tank, Wires are black green and white, Can someone looksee under seat please. Thanks.

Thanks for the replys. I will be going for vdo it seems they have a good following. I'm assuming that oil pressure is worth having? If so 5 bar or 10? I might change the fuel as that's iffy too. Anybody know the temp sender required for a non serp 3.9? Thanks

hi, I have a 3.9 in a defender 90 and want to do away with the original 90 temp guage. what have you people used? I have two spaces for oil pressure and water temp. and finally where did you buy them from? thanks jack.

hi, i cant seem to find a company who sells rear tub side panel skins. im looking for a l/h side around the wheelarch panel. ive found a company that has the genuine ones at £229 which is out of price. do bearmach or similiar make them and how much are they and where from? thanks.

ahh great stuf, thanks again.

hello, two steps forward and three back... got the revving up sorted. next problem. on startup and leaving it run for maybe a minute, water... about half a cup maybe more from the exhaust end and as black as soot. no oil though or any sign of oil/water mix. the landrover has not seen the outside world for years so no chance of rain in exhaust etc. the level in header tank has dropped slightly and when running the water in tank not "bubbling" but moving.. ? head gasket? as said before its sat for a while. would it be best to whip the heads off and have a look? anything in particular to look out for? ive done a 300tdi before but not a 8. thanks.

Bowie69, i said flap, should have said throttle. i was testing the throttle potentionmeter. cynical-al, will have a look at the throttle cable.

me again... dont worry theres new news.. it starts.. . vroooom vroooom. i checked every wire etc etc. i had the wiring wrong on the ignition switch that wasnt helping. but i stil cant figure out why on the rave test sheet. test 3 amplifier switching im getting 12 volts at coil with ignition off when i should get 0. i have found another post on another forum with the same problems and it was a broken earth wire within the loom. the continuity tests i have done show no breaks.. going back to the starting.. its starts but as soon as it does its revving and revving up quite alot. no rev counter but its not idle. its not pulsing revs just brrrrrrrr. any ideas folks? thanks for the replies so far realy helped me. jack.

hi, coming back to this. ive had a hour on it today so far. going through the tests that cynic-al posted up. which i had looked at before a while ago and completly forgot. the ((3.9 hotwire system diagnostic tests)) tests 1-7 all fine test 8 i get 12 volts which is ok. but get 6.2 instead of 6.8kohms? problem? test 9 and 10 im reading 0.00 on both banks. not the 4-5ohms suggested. but cant find a break in wires etc. all connectors in ok... test 11 fuel temp thermistor not sure what it should be but getting 3.80 ohms.... test 12 coolant temp thermistor 4.62ohms.... test 13 and 14 when i switch the ignition of, this bypass valve makes a strange vibrating kind of noise? reading of 0.05 on both tests. faulty valve? test 15 reading 4.25 should be 5000. test 16 flap closed i get 0v open i get 0.03v, hmm.. test 17 air flow sensor i read 0.01 should be 0.3 to 0.6 i havnt got any further as dont have a pressure gauge etc. but can any body point me in any directions to the above? thanks.

smallfry. just installed in this vehicle. but has been stood for a while. ive not had it running. Alsace_rangie. its a brand new bearmach pump, with the pipe and bracket extended to reach bottom of 90 tank. it does seem good pressure, squirts out all over me. yes i have tried the old spark trick. got a very weak spark even in the darkened workshop. thanks

hi. yes its a hotwire 88 onwards. nige, this is with a brand new one on now no change, last week i got a blue boxed one for free also new but no different . and no diferent from the original 2 pin. i have 12volts at coil when i shouldnt from battery positive thro multimeter with ignition off. ignition on i have no volts.. and cranking im get 8 to 9 volts on either side of the coil. i cant fiigure it out. thanks cynic-al i have had a look thro in the past. aslong as a many things google and the such searching can provide. the plugs look whiteish to me. no fuel getting thro for sure but the fuel is going round via pump. so the injectors can t be getting a pulse? stumped... thanks again.

hello. first time for me posting in the range rover forum. i have a 3.9v8 out of a range rover in my ex 2.5n/a 90. it was in a 90 before i got my mitts on it.. problem i have is it wont start. new genuine rotor cap, new gen dizzy cap, new bosch coil new gen ignition amp (the side of the coil type.) good battery 12v good starter. when i go through the haynes RR manual Electronic ignition system - fault finding i have 12v at either side of the coil with ignition on from + and - from battery. but with the ignition off i should be reading zero volts at the - ignition coil side with the battery + on the other side of the voltmeter but i get 12..... can any body suggest why this is? ive double and triple checked the wiring and cant seem to find where im going wrong. i have a good earth from back of passenger side of block to chassis and front pssngr side to chassis. it will turn over and over. fuel pump is pressurised and fuel passing through and returning. something simple? hope so. thanks for any replies jack.

hi paul. they look to be the ones. thankyou.

to conclude this a year later. as i just got round to sorting it over the holiday period. turned out to be the thermal reset switch. at a cost of £4.00 from flebay. thanks for all the help given. regards.

hi all. im struggling to find the suitable hoses (the correct hoses if they exists) to fit a 3.9 in a 90 to the heater box. ive got the two short hoses that come from the block and the metal pipes that sit ontop of the rocker cover but i cannot find a hose to get me from there to the heater. ive got inlet btr216 and outlet btr217 from a range rover but there not right. any body done a conversion and what did you use? thanks,