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Everything posted by Maverik

  1. Get a Webasto from a Rover 75 plumed in. I use this on my 200tdi most mornings (via a remote) the engine block is already up to 60-70degC before I even start her up, starts and runs much better when pre-warmed.
  2. Cool truck and very good post, now make sure you get some decent security features fitted, you don't want to lose her prematurely.
  3. 200tdi (lots and lots of miles on it) 10w40 oil - Running at Oil temp 106degC - 3000rpm (65mph) Oil pressure 32psi - idle oil pressure @ said temp 12-15psi. I find it fascinating watching the pressure value change with oil Temp.
  4. Pop CwazyWabbit a PM (few posts above) he should be able to sort you out.
  5. Regarding egt there is little actually published regarding figures but research I've done found that the general upper temp for working is about 750 degrees centigrade, it's good up to that but you generally don't want to run it that hot for any duration. To increase the "boost" pressure you need to shorten the actuator linkage, this effectively allows less exhaust gas to "flow" through the exhaust turbine relief valve thus more gas flows through the turbine instead - which drives the compressor faster = more air in. The way land rover set the engine up in the first place allows you to only need to adjust the fuel side to get an initial improvement in "performance". If you then want to further that then you want to look at other aspects like the inlet side I.e adjustment of the boost etc. Start googling more, there are heaps of topics throughout verious LR forums giving experiences of people doing this. Mav
  6. That's been fairly pillaged, you'd pretty much need a very similar donar vehicle to move it forward anyway. Would be possibly a decent start to a full shell rebuild, then you could find another 3dr with a totally rotten body and swap it all...
  7. I fitted a Madman EMS2 a few years ago and got to say I rather like it, gives all sorts of in drive entertainment, I find I'm driving by it more often than not. Really quite interesting seeing how the engine is responding to any certain driving condition.
  8. I'd say you need to verify the actual temp somehow. If the gauge is in the red then the hoses should all be pretty hard to the grasp. I've usually never been able to get a diesel up to temperature just by idling an engine, generally always had to take them for a short drive to get them up. Temp senders do age and stopped working correctly, they're not expensive,I'd reccomend you swap it out for new or a known good one.
  9. I think Mantec supplied them at one point, 1997-1998 Camel trophy Defenders had them but on the other side.
  10. You won't regret the engine mount upgrade, I converted the gearbox mounts to the later square softer mounts and just that made a huge difference on my 200, I've got a plan to look at the engine side at some point.
  11. Hi Folks, hope you're all enjoying your Government inflicted land rover fettling time... Just about to strip and attempt to rebuild a Weber 32/34 Carb... can anyone point me in the direction of any decent literature to help me along, I've been doing a lot of googling, but not really found anything that useful. - just exploded diagrams which give information but not always that clear. Any help would be appreciated. Mav
  12. Hmmm that's a rather optimistic time prediction if you ask me...
  13. As western has said, I've seen a fair few older numbers and they also have the circular (3 way yinyang) type British Layland logo at each end.
  14. Have you just tried starting it and then cracking open lines? - or get someone to turn the engine over while you crack open lines?
  15. Very interesting bit of software, I'll be giving this a wee go. - thanks for the other suggestions too, heaps for me to have a look at. Mav
  16. I just want to record some circuits I've put together, presently they're sat as rather rough sketches in a notes book. I've actually used Crocodile clips years ago, i thought it was de-funcked software, but I'll have a look again. Yes - its now called Yenka - as its a simulation software, I was more looking for a drawing package I think rather than simulation.
  17. Hi Folks, Does anyone have any recommendations for some basic software for creating circuit diagrams at all? Had a quick google and it pulled up a few but they where all fee based. Which isn't a problem but I don't want to pay for something then find its a pile of carp. Cheers Mav
  18. Yup - as Stephen says I've done it a few time too. but be aware, its a pretty heavy lump.. Also worth getting new bolts to put it back on with - they're high tensile ones.
  19. Another tip for getting the old nuts off... tap a socket on or even a smaller socket if they're really corroded, then go straight for the tighten... they're only m6 so will shear pretty easily.
  20. If you're using a standard turret tube, bit of tip. Before you put the inner wing covers back on fill the whole top "cup" part of the turret (the bit where the nut is sitting) with some kind of grease. As it will fill with water thus the nut will be submerged which leads to the obvious. I installed galvanised turrets before Christmas and when I came to change the shocks a month ago, I already saw corrosion on the top shock stud, and had standing water up there too.
  21. Chances are as said above you'll just shear off the mount studs, so make sure you get some new ones on order. After I replaced the stud ring last time I stack the studs with nuts as to cover up all the thread then slap grease over them, stop you from having the rusty thread problem.
  22. My few attempts at playing with tig on Alu was that using a big backing heat sink can be the difference between blowing the piece away and getting a decent joint the thinner the alu the more important. Maybe for an expert Tig welder they can control the weld pool better but for novice, heat sinks all the way for me.
  23. I found some genuine ones on Ebay. I see them come up a fair bit. Mav
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