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Everything posted by Maverik

  1. First off, what a pile of carp, sorry to see that, that's super bad luck. Can't say I've ever seen a valve spring retainer just split in half like that before, not a comman failure on a 300tdi, it is common to find the valve stem caps missing, apparently there was a bad batch from land rover and I've seen and read of a fair few 300's where they break up and fall into the sump. Fingers crossed the broken valve has stayed roughly where it should have and it hasn't done too much damage...
  2. I have a 2.5" exhaust its 2.5" from the turbo outlet all the way through - in my 200tdi (with "performance" boxes) - it helps keep the exhaust temps down.
  3. What was the main worry with the trees? Potential for roots damage to your structure? Got a mate also holding off on a barn construction due to price of steel, crazy crazy.
  4. No small feat, I'd be interested to know the cost of this venture once completed.
  5. Did you put lubricant behind the bearing shell? surely putting the lub between the shell and crank shaft should only help to push the shell into place. The manual I posted up on here about bearings the other week has a really interesting section talking about the mechanism of how the bearings are designed to seat, and its the end to end compression that squeezes the bearing into the saddle of the conrod - its like your shell didn't seat properly like it was slight undersized in its effective "length" perhaps. I guess we can speculate until he cows come home, still a really interesting topic with some valuable learning points. Ultimately you need to remember you're working with precision parts and you need to adjust your working behavior to match. I have everything crossed for you for the next phase.
  6. I got sick of fuel tank gauge twitching and badly reading on my standard set-up - I cleaned the wee resistance slider on the sender and that helped improve the situation but in the end I installed a new float and sender and switched to my TD5 dash set-up, no more fuel level grips.
  7. I would have, but I got a 4motion California earlier this year and it pretty awesome for my needs, for the first time in my life I have bought something at the right time! I've also got a camel 110 waiting in the wings to be rebuilt - I've still got energy for it so its my focus - hell the present market I could sell that and buy 2 Grenadiers...! I'm pretty impressed with what we've been show of the overall build of the thing, I think they've gone about it in a really interesting way. Can't wait to see @jeremy996's one
  8. I was going to say - having T-washed all sorts of stuff in the past, the best results I got was when I degreased and then gave a "quick" rub down with something appropriately abrasive then t wash.. good luck - tedious job ergh.
  9. Also echo the comments above, Td5's and Puma's in my opinion are just as noisy as a 300tdi in a lot of ways, I'd also argue you'd inherit a much poorer build quality in the Puma too. I run my 200tdi 90 as my daily drive. I've worked hard on the vibration/sound insulation topic and I've been rewarded with a pretty sustainable driving experience, I love driving my 90 don't ask me why as I have no idea. There are some really good products out there that aren't necessarily cheap and some will demand a little more effort than other, but they will improve your driving experience no end. And it will certainly work out cheaper than another Defender. I'd also point out, that the quest for a quieter truck will not be solved magically with one product, you need to work at it from lots of different angles. But I think its well worth pursuing.
  10. I'd love to give this a go... but I'm worried it would pull up so many transmission issues it would melt my wallet and drive me insane trying to solve the problems
  11. Good spot - it could also be a defective shell too... I'd definitely be looking at the conrod quite carefully.
  12. Got to say I quite like these (below long) I've got some of the TD5 type cut to shape in my 90. Under that on the steel itself I put some generic butyl vibration matting (non foil type). Land Rover Defender Tdci 2.2 bulkhead foot well sound proof rubber mat LR066463 | eBay TETROSYL Sound Deadening Pads - SDP200 5010372833002 | eBay - love this stuff - its cheap and very very sticky. - not used in the engine bay fyi.
  13. I'd say its a more look and see. Pretty obvious. - and it makes sense really - its why all "new" lift pumps come with the spacer so they are back compatible with the older engine type.
  14. Which bearing is which from your picture? just looking at them the one on the right it hasn't worn the free ends of the bearing, could something like this have happened?
  15. To add to an old topic - but seems the best place to put it. Early engines I believe had this type of mounting which is what came from the series engines which the TDI's where ultimately derived, I was reading part of the service manual yesterday and in that it states the 200tdi was designed to use a lot of parts from previous engines. This is a picture of the early fuel pump mounting plate, as you can see compared to the cast aluminum type as Ralph has posted there is no stand off. - if you put a later type fuel pump on this type of mount then you can suffer lift pump arm damage.
  16. Just read this which is something to check. 2nd paragraph. The oil seal its talking about is ERR532 which is part of the oil pump/skew gear assembly.
  17. For the super interested - An paper on Vibration measurement and analysis - there's a bit in it regarding the use of acoustic measurements - the conclusion seems to support acoustic as a good way to do it, but evidently is not been massively researched. A review of vibration and acoustic measurement methods for the detection of defects in rolling element bearings A review of vibration and acoustic measurement methods for the detection of defects in rolling element bearings - ScienceDirect
  18. Hi @hurb that kind of belt damage I would suggest is from a worn tensioner or idler pulley. I had this recently on my Defender 200tdi, there was noticeable slack in the tensioner bearing. In my opinion I would get the head skimmed, I'd also take the opportunity to give the head a bit of an overhaul.
  19. I have to say I really feel for you on this one - but don't give in! channel your frustration to get the job fixed. I've had a few similar instance 1) a few years ago now I helped a mate do his clutch on his D1, we got it all back together and found that the clutch wouldn't disengage, so in the same day we re-pulled the engine out and found the clutch plate had jammed on the gearbox input shaft, it was a long day and night! 2) rather more recently my wee paper rag sucked into the engine after a relatively straight forward timing belt change...
  20. So I found this when clearing an old library at work, I thought it hads some nice interesting stuff in it, so I digitized it and here it is. Looks at typical crank shaft type bearing wear etc and common issues and what that looks like. Cheers Mav Engine Bearing Manual1.pdf
  21. Google the part number - gave me some hits you might be interested in. - might work - webbing straps will probably also do the job! Land Rover Front Seat Base Diaphram MTC9931 (johnrichardssurplus.co.uk)
  22. here have a look at this. Land Rover fuel pump spacer and fittings 2.5 200 300 TDi Defender Discovery | eBay
  23. 1) - follow the earth cable from your battery through the battery box hole... it should be attached to a stud/bolt on the back end/side of the transfer box. - Something like the below picture (taken from google) (this is a later set-up) - you can see the later type passenger side rubber mount for the box.
  24. Yeah as been said a few times already - I'd be removing earth straps at all ends and cleaning all contact areas - also look at the +ve connections too they can be a bit rough. Then I'd be looking towards the starter.
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