Maverik

See if you can find a part number for the other side that will allow you to narrow in what you're looking for.

So I'm not aware of any website that has published part numbers for the newer land rovers i.e. the ones that don't fall into the "classic" category. But I've found a quirky way into the Jaguar Land Rover Classic parts website. From what I've seen you cant access any new LR vehicles through the normal classic parts website, but if you have any part number for the vehicle you're looking for, you just pop the number into google and one of the first hits will be from the Land Rover Classic parts website - but for a non classic vehicle If you do a search to find a generic part number for the vehicle you're looking for e.g. 2020 Discovery sport I looked for a bumper on ebay and got this part number LR128932 you then get this Link Towing System - Towing Valance, 5 Seat or 5+2 Seat without Spare Wheel AWD, 20MY onwards | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts Now depending on which vehicle you're looking at you either scroll to the bottom and click the vehicle type OR If you scroll to the top of the page and click the "Back" you can get back to the top of the parts index for the vehicle. Search Genuine Land Rover Discovery Sport 2015 > (l550) Parts | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts another example is L461 Range Rover sport 2023 Search Genuine Land Rover New Range Rover Sport 2023 > (l461) Parts | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

Try here: Search Genuine Land Rover Discovery Sport 2015 > (l550) Parts | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

Just a recommendation for central ish Scotland, I'm not related or connected with the supplier, just had a good experience. https://www.stainless-creations.co.uk/ Really nice customer contact, booked the vehicle in (2 week wait) and had a full exhaust made and installed within a day. These guys don't just make new, they will repair or just change sections of a damaged exhaust, amongst other machanic-ing.

Good advice.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315275808201 I quite like the look of this...

Hi folks, D2 Td5 - I've got a pin hole in one of the steel pipes that sits below the fan/radiator, I've ordered a new part but I want to do a repair as I'll change the pipe out when I do the chassis later in the year, initial thoughts were to to use an appoxy with some kind of patch material, Dad recommended some kind of tin skin patch outer held by jubilee clips, especially as araldite type material get soft ~80 degrees. Anyone got any recommendations/advice, needs to be good to hold some pressure.

In around 2002 LR changed the door locks from i think it is 8 pin locks to 14 pin locks, i.e. they made the door lock barrels longer to accommodate the same key that was used in the ignition lock, which made the door barrels a little more resistant to breaking and entering... so obviously the alloy handles are built for the later spec locks. I've had a good look about and cant find any individual part numbers for the bits you need, Exmore obviously assume you're already upgrading a later style door lock so you can just swap these parts over, I think you might have to bite the bullet and order some standard (late type) door handles, to use the parts from them, you could also pop a "wanted" add in the forum to see if anyone had any old ones going.

hmmm they salt the roads like they salt the fish and chips up here. As interesting as my wee 3 year break living in Englanshire was, my 90 thanked me more, they don't salt half as much.

Has this truck been in the sea? Or is it a common issue?

The price of older disco's seems to be creeping up, that is the first 200tdi first series. When I bought my Romulus facelift 300tdi finding one with a decent MOT and on the road wasn't so easy, there seems to be few on the road these days, most 300tdi's I could fine where modified in some way or another with prices from 1500 - 3000+ dependent on the kit they had on. I finally found a GS (basic) spec unmolested for 2k, with a dubious 11 months MOT. Off the road trucks seem to bottom out at 500 which equated to getting an engine and gearbox, but I only got that price from asking about and visiting a few garages with old trucks sat outside them. so "in my opinion" any truck with an MOT its going to be 1000+ dependent on how rough it is. MOT less... down to 500 dependant on what needs done to get it back on the road, if it needs a stack of welding then its as good as the engine and gearbox, but if it doesn't need welded then that makes it more valuable as its much easier to get it back on the road.

I ran my 200tdi on OAT for quite a few years, but wasn't all that convinced with it, especially after doing the head gasket a few times in relative succession I was gobsmacked to see how the blank water holes had corroded, so I swapped back to Glycol although I've not had the head off to see if its any better, I feel I've had super rock solid coolant temps even when I seriously maxed out when towing some heavy stuff up some big hills. 200tdi would have been spec'd with Glycol from the begging, and td5's would have been OAT - I'd say stick to the closest you can for what the engine was initially designed for.

Why make new when you can save a heap of cash just copying what someone had done already.

Lovely bit of work, the gate will look amazing.👍

I had it in my head that there was a difference between the swivel ball from raliko to roller bearing type... it could be totally dreamed up mind, I dont have a later one to hand to compare.

So I've puzzled over this myself a few times, from factory "generally" 10 spline = Raliko bush type... and 24 spline = roller bearing type, except late RRC's 😝 I have a suspicion that you will be able to fit 10 spline half shaft, CV, Stub axle and Hub to a later roller bearing type assembly, but I've not tried it.

Discovery 2

This is what Land Rover recommend (for the rear)

Well as I agree with the above, I have just snapped a half shaft... when I did the first re-build on my 90 in 2009 the half shafts are the only thing I didn't change in the transmission, I know for a fact they where abused before I had the truck, but they looked good so I re-used. 15+ years isn't too bad, I did install my ATB just over a year ago in the front and I did wonder if this accelerated the issue, but I'll never know. Something I have invested in recently is a Dye penetration crack testing kit, I tested the other front shaft that didnt break, which looked worn but not twisted and it didnt show any cracks, but I changed it out anyways. I've now got 10 spline Britpart shaft and CV's in the front axle now and to be fair they looked not to rough. I've got Ashcroft HD shafts in the back with the ATB so not too worried about those.

@Paul C I'd be interested to get some feedback on your driving experience of the 1.3 once you're up and running.

Yeah but the results are really cool....

Page 20 of my build thread https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/49267-diamond-in-the-rough/#comments

For example

Anything but standard 200tdi mounts... 300tdi seem to be a good compromise between size over hardness, I converted the standard 200tdi gearbox mounts to the later square type and even that made a hell of a difference. I'd defo consider td5 first.

You've also got the option of 1.3... ashcroft do the this as a gearing option, I had half intended to do it on my manual 200tdi, as I think it would compliment it more than a 1.4 for all around "use". But Auto's are a little different but worth considering.