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Maverik

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Everything posted by Maverik

  1. ok, do you have hydraulic fluid leaking out your bell housing? sounds like you could have got fluid on your flywheel/clutch from the leaking cylinder. Make sure you get a heavy duty plate fitted, also advisable to get a new clutch release bearing/carrier and heavy duty (re-enforced)clutch fork, by doing that you're covering all the bases for having to go in there again, if donw properly using good parts, it should last you a afair while.
  2. What engine/gearbox? any history of when the clutch was last changed? do you use the truck for towing regularly?
  3. Was was the condition of the drive teeth on your old starter? did you have a look at the teeth on the flywheel when you had thr starter out? (peer through the hole). Can you define "clatter" a bit? there really isn't a lot to go wrong with a starter system, especially if you've put a new starter motor on it. As stated above, check all the main earths, namly gearbox to -ve and actual -ve terminal on your battery contact.
  4. Good question! well price is a bit veriable, depends on the truck I guess, but I don't have too many thousands. Ideally looking for a full re-build, looking for something thats relativly complete structurally, but something that needs a lot of time and attention to make good again. This would have been right up my street, but unfortunatly is wasn't a 110.
  5. ok, sorted. Thanks for the suggestions. Crank arm retaining clip (inside the wiper motor drive assemblie) had broken and allowed the mechanism to go all slack and sloppy, transplanted some bits from an older wiper unit and it went back together ok. Things to note: 1986 era motor wiper park point is different, also swept angle is 114 degrees, TD5 era unit swept angle is 140 degrees - this was stamped on the crank wheel inside the motor assemblie. Laborious job to remove all the dash to get to it, but easy enough.
  6. I've got a TD5 bulkhead in my LR90 with original wind screen wiper setup. Today I had the wipers on 1st speed, went over a small bump and they started to not fully sweep the screen. Now there is a good 15-20 degrees slack (just under half a sweep) its effected both wipers and they both still act together, but now when you put the wipers on they either over sweep the window (catch the rubber frame) or under sweep the window and hit the rubber on the bottom of the windscreen. I think i can eliminate that the cogs on the drivers are worn, or evn the drive wire, it feels like an end stop had moved/dropped off. Is there any common problems that happens to the wiper motor mechanism? It has been clicking for a few weeks and its had a hard life with the snow. Anyone any ideas, has anyone got any drawings etc of whats inside the wiper mechanism? Cheers Mav
  7. Tiger seal by upol is very good sealant. with the benefit you you are able to paint over it. I've sealed my roof and bulkhead an all sorts of other stuff with it, comes in white and black as far as I know.
  8. There is a quick connector for you reversing lamp just close to the actual switch, best accessed through your center seat box hatch, I don't have a handbrake indicator, but I'm guessing there is a similar connector in roughly the same location but closer to the handbrake.
  9. I belive, whan I was pulling my 90 apart, that there is also a leg of the circuit that goes down the drives side wing part of the loom, I'm guessing its juts an alternative hook up point maybe for a LHD vehicle? anyways you could put an extension wire from that redundant point? save you a bit of hassle?
  10. I know there are a few Camel trophy owners loitering on here so maybe they might have a lead? I've been looking for a Camel trophy vehicle for some time now but primarily I'm looking for a Camel trophy 110/Defender mainly to restore, I've seen one or 2 nice examples on the Trophy website and else where, but one can buy 3 decent defenders for the price that some people are asking for them, I'm guessing there can't be that many around that haven't had work on them so an even harder challange to find. If anyone has any pointers that would be great. Cheers Mav
  11. I actually got the door really cheap as a factory soiled item, had a small dint in the panel. (fleebay) Swapping the bits over was relativly easy. the window "felt" slides are screwed into the frame using countersunk screw, it was a bit fiddly getting them out but not hard. the lock mechanism and handle just slip out when you un screw them. (if the door has had prior work - worth getting new screws for the latches) You have to be systematic at putting it back together as some of the linkages between the door lock/opener can be fiddly but again quite doable. I binned the old window slides as they where gone, ordered replacemnt ones from LR series. The door is a vast improvment on the Alu ones, the channel in the bottow is a lot more open so you can waxoil it, also got nice big drain holes to stop standing water. As soon as summer comes around I'll be doing the drivers side door too, and sell the Alu door on. Hopefully this will be worry free now.
  12. Welcome to the forum, hopefully you'll get your problem sorted. Now from my limited experience I would hazard a guess at something like a posetive back feed, like you're getting +ve up your earth, I've got an 86 LR90 non mod the electrics are pretty straight forward, but I'm also guessing you have a 24v system? What makes me say its a posetive back feed is, the light circuit (on mine) is run from an ignition feed so shouldn't light unless ignition is on... and the reason why it stop doing it when you take the fog light fuse out because (on mine) there is "interlock" as it where that turns the rear fogs lights off when the lights flip to high beam, so your faulty earth path is somehow going through your fog circuit...? that could be total rubbish but if I was you I would get a small multimeter and start prodding things, maybe check your main +ve wire off the battery follow it to make sure its happy...
  13. How could you forget, they are the coolest wheels about and possible the most expensive! one day I may be lucky enough to own some!
  14. I have a 200tdi on a R380 shorty gearbox, lovely setup now, but with foresight I would have gone with a 300tdi they are now as common as 200's where 5 years ago, lots of cheap spares and engines available.
  15. What I've done with my drivers door is buy a new Post 06 door "shell" i.e. frame and skin, then "transplanted the inernals from my old door to this one. The main door plate fits but you need to make some brackets like this, I put new window slides in too as the old door they had deteriorated.
  16. Black smoke, blue smoke, white smoke... if your lift pump is failing it can cause intermittend fuel flow that can draw air into the system and it messes up the whole combustion process, but yes, black smoke is usually associated with overfuelling of one sort or another (faulty injectors/injector pump), blue smoke is burnt oil and white is steam implying water in the system. If you have a lift pump problem you will find the engine will not run smoothly (even rev's) as the lift pump is purely mechanical its speed is adjusted with the engine speed, if its not syncronised as the diaphgram in the pump has ruptured then it wont supply enough fuel when you try and rev it so you engine rev go all over the place as the flow of fuel is not constant. IMHO! Fuel problems are always quite difficult as some of the symptoms above can also happen if your fuel filter is ready for a change i.e.(full of water and gunk) or if you have a split fuel pipe thats sucking in air... The ultimate problem is its usally undrivability! Excessive smoke, but still drivable sounds more like injector problems, piston ring oil leakage... timing out... the list goes on... there are loads and loads of topics on people problems with fueling etc. Best thing to do is try and list the symptoms as best you can and what you have checked already.
  17. You definatly know when your lift pump is on its way out - amongst many symptoms some are, doesn't rev, lots of black smoke, uneven iddleing, engine "hunting"... I belive its as crwoody described.
  18. Regarding brakes. to be honest its probably not hurting the brake end of the system more the jolt to the transmission would be a concern but to even then I wouldn't worry too much. The only solution I can think of, bar stripping yourt brakes down and thawing/drying them out. If you can you need to get them nice and hot that will get the water out of them... now unfortunatly the present weather conditions aren't exactly good fro driving around with your brakes slightly on! Until you get nice dry roads to warm the brakes up on, I think you'll just have to put up with it. I stand to be corrected though.
  19. I think you just answered your own question - YES it is!!! I don't know what the outside temperature was but my internal one said 0.1 degrees, that was after a 2 hour drive with luckwarm air fending of the frost on the inside of my windscreen. I couldn't feel my toes and literally couldn't fit any more clothes on... If one wants to operate his landrover well, one has to be alive and unfrozen.
  20. If it makes you feel any better you're not the only one that's ever bought a lemon... Don't despaire too much, but unfortunatly like reto says its part of ownership of an older Landy. This forum was the best thing I joined when I bought my Landy it would not be running today without the knowledge and encouragment I found here.
  21. Aye, well from the looks of it, there are 3 indipendant heater elements, which will help me control the current draw, initially I was only planning on wireing up 1 of the 3 elements see how my alternator holds up to it, but again I wasn't thinking of using it for prolonged use, more a booster to get the air warmer than it presently is! going to build in an "interlock" too, stop me from leaving it on without the blower, don't want the truck to melt!
  22. Ok this is what I put together yesterday, not had chance to test it yet as want to sort the wireing out properly. But I don't think there's a problem with the actual "blow" of the heater just the heat that comes out of it! I have been thinking about putting a "boost" heater in parellel with the present water matrix, I was thinking of something along the lines of a hair dryer heater element type thing... well as posted earlier, after a conversation with another forum member he suggested a Peugot heater matrix, well I picked one up form ebay and fitted it to a spare heater box I had off a TD5, well the installed matrix looks like this... again not properly function tested but I can't see why it shouldn't work, its got pretty heavy duty wireing going to it so it must pull quite a few amps so working on a relay wireing setup for it. It was relativly easy to fit, just needed to dismantle the heater box to get to all the bits so you could cut the slot for it.
  23. Good call mate, I had a bottle of water in my cubby box next to the extinguisher! chances are its a bit cold too.
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