Maverik

ok, I've held this in, but not now. I have held my breath with Britpart hopeing it was all smoke but I not haven't had any parts from them that actually fitted first time! before I knew the reputation I had bought a stack of door seals, heater control cables, and verious other bits and pieces. The quality of the seals, rubber, profile etc look great... BUT they just don't fit! any pre drilled holes for rivets etc are all out, the pitch can be out by 5mm, so frickin annoying as you can't correct this easily. Heater cables too short? 25mm!!!!! whats that about? money saving? bad quality control? even those plastic lokuts things, the plastic is too hard and they are too brittle... I just got sent a timeing belt tensioner pulley ended up being Britpart, no way is that going near my engine. The starter motor is britpart, unfortuantly I had to fit it, but when I did, the solanoid negative actually, ACTUALLY touched the red posetive battery feed when installed, had to modifie it to make it safe!! Its rediculous and extremly annoying the very small STUPID problems with the parts! half shaft caps... split after a week of putting them on... the list goes on, and that only the small no critically safe parts... its disgusting and such a waste of time that company, I know Land rover has certainly changed hands many times since the good old days, but I cannot see that there quality standards have been lowered so much as to accept Britpart parts if it did then I certianly wouldn't be touching any new landy anytime soon. Rant over, sorry.

The only bit that I could tell that wasn't plated was the door check mounting, other than that the door had a bright finish. Even after I degreesed it, I didn't get any flash rusting so I recon it was all plated.

Welcome! Congratulation and commiserations, your new purchase will cause you muchas happiness with an equal ammount of blood sweat and tears! but good choice to join the forum, if it can't be solved on here then its not worth solving! Mav

They are fully electro plated. - somewhat more refined that hot dipped galvanising.

Hmmm not all horses actually, I have some of the jigzaw matt down in my wee workshop, it was the stuff that was salvaged from the back of my flatmates horse truck after her welshy decided to do some re-modeling of her conpartment. I did remove a similar adehesive matting from the insode of the roof, as it was put on my a 3 year old and water used to get trapped behind it, not a nice smell.

Does anyone have to hand primarily the diameter of those annoying plastic hinge bushes on the defender bonnet hinge. My bonnet seem sto chew them up so I'm going to try and make some brass ones. Or conversely does anyone know of any brass ones around? Cheers Mav

Bonnet, wings - definatly, presently using PVC wings, would definatly go for a lighter bonnet, but again has to be loadable, spare wheel/walking on.

I got a "seconds" door from craddocks at 125 squid, it had a few dints, but it was a Genuine New 06 full steel door, I sprayed it fitted it out and put it on the vehicle a couple of weeks ago, fit perfectly, very nice door that I'm hopeing will last the duration! the bottom frame in the door is very much more open than alu doors, so water easily runs out of it, if it gets in. I'm actually thinking about buying a full price one for the passanger side too. the trickyest bit of taking all the bits from one to another was fitting the window, but after some wiggling that was pretty straight forward. Something to note. the actual felt that the window runs in is held in place buy small counter sunck screw hidden in the actual fold of the felt runner, you have to dig around a bit to find them before the window slider and packer will come out. The new 06 steel doors are of a TD5 era bulkhead. so the actual hinge 'door' holes are about 4mm further into the door, i.e you need to overlise the screw clip holes in your bulkhead if its not a TD5 era - I'm not sure what year they changed this, but its a real pain, don't ask me how I found this out... The steel doors also have the TD5 style inner door plate for holding the window regulator. I could not find one of these panles for under 250 squid so I made some little steel convert pieces and was able to utilies the older inner door panel. I'd say it was well worth doing, but be aware its a bit of a wee minefield, just make sure you've got all the right bits. What is should look like:- And the mods I did to get a standard inner door panel to fit:-

HAHAHA toucha!!! Lara, shouldn't you be building some fancy engine in that surgical area you call a workshop?!!!

Juts put Van sides on my 90 and it thrumbs rather loudly, now I've been involved with doing some sound attenuation on ship's engine rooms etc. and what they use is a "viscoelastic" material (glue) and then stick a thin steel plate to it, the added mass changes the resonant frequency of the panel - usually bumps the frequency up, as lower frequency noise is the stuff that carries a long way. Now I was wondering has anyone done anything similar before on Land rovers?? There seems to be a plathora of car sound proofing material, but does any of it actually work? Cheers Mav

Yeah, GRP reenforced definatly, Alu with some resin on the back will make it nigh on idistructable. I got my wings from Paddocks, as they where 55 squid each, cheapest I could find - and i belive ther where bit part, the holes across the top of the wing needed re drilling as they where in the wrong place, other than that, a nice item.

I've fitted up PVC wings, and reasonably impressed... I guess they'd be very similar to GRP, although GRP can be a little brittle sometimes.

waxoyl EVERYTHING... well within reason. The galvanising is a protective layer, but at the end of the day its metal too and corrodes under certain conditions. Combined with galvanic corrosion process's too, as soon as my rig has past its MOT after its re-build its getting a bath of the stuff, and yup its got a Galv chassis too. the more protection the better.

hmmm picture isn't there... ok it is now. On my 90, thats just a bolt that goes straight through into the chassis.

I presume you mean the compression type bolt on the inside of the windscreen, that backs onto the hinges? - I always thought that was just for hinged windscreens - it can be used of course to adjust the gap a tad yup.

Aye, agree with the above, unless you are very sure about work that needs doing for MOT (and I mean VERY VERY sure), definatly get one with an MOT or expect it to cost billions to get it back on the road (one way or another) - Yorkshire way there are heeps of bargins to be had, I'd be very hesitant to buy off fleebay - unless you go have a look at it first, well all vehicles you should go look at first...

Good stuff. Especially with new calipers they can trap air when first bled out, glad you got it sorted.

Holy monkeys, now all the computer boffins wiggle out the woodwork... each to there own, but if car design goes on like it is, we'll all need to be swift on the old laptop to diagnose our ayling 4x4 machines. Good tool thought.

hmmmm something like the shackless lock, but those do look a bit clunky, although better than to tin hasp that was on my rear door before...

Hello and welcome. The "Haynes" specified brake bleed procedure is starting at the nearest wheel out and working outwards. try re bleeding going from front left to, front right, rear left, rear right. They can be very awkward sometimes and need bleeding a few times, its also most effective with a helper pressing the peddel for you. Has the brake peddel had a lot of travel for a while, or is it since you changed the calipers? I had a similar problem (although i have an older vehicle) and I found that after repeated goes at bleeding it never improved, it turned out that my master cylinder was leaking and bi-passing fluid. a new one cured master cured the problem. Mav

nice looking bumper...

Welcome, I see you're new around here. Has the vibration always been there? has it appeared since putting the new damper on? Do you get vibration any other time? at speed etc? Do you have to do anything to stop the vibration? brake for example? Mav

Another update, I actually properly fitted passanger side wing the other night, wasn't happy to find the bolt holes along the top of the wing where 10mm out of alignment with the inner/top pannel, so had to elongate them - not really a problem as the blastic is quite easy to drill, but again very frustrating, Britpart stuff just doesn't seem to fit very well at all. I just fitted up 2 door sill seals too, all the holes again where drilled in the wrong places, so be aware. the panel itself looks good though.

I seem to remember I replaced one of my bolts, the axle end I think with 1/2" x 3" UNC bolts its a narrow rad arm axle. I don't have a parts book with me to check, ask Western (Ralph) he should be able to help you with the correct one. Just found a 110 parts book and it says that both bolts are M14's My link My panhard rod is modified one so probably not standard.

yeah I mean the duck egg blue. I suppose it makes sense on most engines, but on a Landrover engine... must not stay blue for very long... I was purusing some ex mod vehicles on the Witham's website, they'd got a 200tdi civi 110 look strange as the whole thing was painted green. Thanks guys.