Maverik

ok, just forked out for a shiney, spanking new PAS box from Adwest for my 90, now I don't know how fooked my PAS pump is (no history), so from stopping me taking my new PAS box out prematurely I was wondering about putting a small inline oil filter into the system, anyone any thoughts? I was looking at maybe using a small engine oil filter and housing from a. n. other car... Cheers Mav

Thats me wallet relived of the said sum - if it arrives with as little hassle as it was to order it, then I'll on my way to being happy! - it better be shiney when I get it...

Got a 4 bolt one quoted at 295 inc VAT and P&P from Adwest direct - thats actually not bad for a spanking unit I guess.

Funny you should say that as thats what I've just done... including re-building the whole front axel, CV's, seals bushes, rod ends, brakes... hence the despare... will be living on soup and gruel for the rest of the month. All because I said "I might have it back driving by the weekend". Not sure wheather to curse the car or the infidel owner before me....

I remeber seeing this before too... I wonder how well it drives on the motorway..... I'd have thought a 2.5ltr would have been a little underpowered for such a beast? mav

blblblblblb I was just checking paddocks, they have some re con ones for 200, it that the way to go or should I be looking at the LRseries New OEM ones for 280... oucha, I hate my car.

Ok, slightly Mildly miffed so need a rant first, I have a "4" bolt adwest lightweight steering box that decided to spill its hydraulic contents onto my driveway... ironicly its not driven anywhere for the past 7 months, why it has done this is a mystery... I think it doesn't want to get fixed up. Anyways, is it an easy enough job to dismantle the steering box and re build the seals or should I just go for a re-con unit? Cheers Mav

As far as I know the rubber type is identical, just the pad area of the bushes. - how bad is bad vibration?

Read somewhere that these where hard to come by...??? so thought I'd post it up. 1965, 2 door RRC Mav

Try google? there's hundreds of Land rover people down your way, you shouldn't find it too hard to pick up some bits.

Have you checked/changed oil in your swivels recently? checked your wheel bearings for play etc? Grab hold of the wheel and see if there is any unusual movement. Mav

I just fitted a TD5 master cylinder to my rig (non TD5), whats the clutch sensor for? - some fangled input for the ECU?

Handbrake assembly:

One of these bits have probably come adrift... Mav

NTC2706, NTC2707, ANR3037 - The main A-frame components, all available from LRseries.

It got down to about -16 a couple times up here, my block froze twice... it wasn't after I managed to get a 100% Artic circle come "hell freeze over" anti freeze in it did it stay slushi. I would have put whisky in it but that was used to keep me from freezing...

I belive ANR6333 is a adhesive backed one, the TD5 Bulkhead I got had a pathetic rubbery self adehsive type seal, hadn't worked. When I replaced the clutch and brake box seals I used a traditional paper type gasket for the clutch (mainly used it as a filler, combined with copious ammounts of silicone sealant) - and I didn't use a gasket for the brake box, again I used just gasket sealant but a non Silicone based one (will wait and see how this fairs)

Buy a ford focus...

I had this on my disco 200tdi, turned out to be water in the fuel filter that was the problem. Follow the fuel from tank to cylinder, really scrutinise it make sure its not pulling in air from anywhere. Search the Forum there are heaps of threads with regard to this problem. Mav

Or you have an actual brake in a wire that you disturbed (for the better) when you replaced the ignition switch, but after a bit of time its settled again and started the intermitent problem. I'd try testing the continuity of the supply to your stop solanoid, I have a bleep tester on my multimeter just allows you to check closed circuits, do that while wiggling your wires to see if you still have a constant circuit. I'd remeber to disconnect your battery before hand too.... I learn't this the hard way. Mav

If you where submerged for any legth of time it would have seaped through the bellhousing/flywheel housing flange joint as this is not a water tight seal.

I stand corrected.

Hmm, I think its a nice idea, but more bits to go wrong. Its ok, if you have your own mechanic

You might at a push get a Griffen in the back of a 110 what a cool idea...

I've been painting all sorts of things just recently from new electroplated doors to rusty swivel housings. I point I have noted with using hammerite is, it doesn't particularly cover other non hammerite finishes very well, unless you really "dawb" it on, then it still doesn't guarantee its going to stick for very long. The only finish it does cover is a very rough brushed rust kinda of finish - I guess thats the market its aimed at. I have found a range of "tractor" paints that are directed at the agricultural vehicles, which are roller applied, but still give a relatively good finish, a lot more suited for your standard basecoat primers.