Maverik

got my 86reg 90's front axle in its diagramatic exploded form... Replacing oil seals, stub axlee, bearings etc. Half shafts are 10-23 type don't look to bad at the 10 end. Question, My CV joints have some pitting, by no means bad, but the balls are starting to show it. While they're out (the CV complete) would you change them out for a "quality" replacment one? From what I can feel there is very little play in the joint itself. Just the marking on the balls and race etc. Cheers Mav

I 2nd Tonka, local marine diesel outfitter up here did if for pretty much the same 35 squid a pop. Mav

Looks like BH108061M from the parts catalogue, but can't seem to find it other than below. http://www.classiclandrovers.no/?page=shop/flypage&product_id=24150&category_id=340&std_qty=4&PHPSESSID=a924e0305195908916ba8a0f5e53d22c LR series have verious M8 bolts but I think these might be 10.9 grade high tensile, so you might have to check that out. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6797/FS108307L-SCREW-M8-X-30-FLANGED-HEAD.html?search=M8 x 30&page=1 Mav

Fleebay... nice n cheap... just replacing my nuts as some ejit used a chisel on them last time... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-HUB-NUT-BOX-SPANNER-/190385610471?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c53dddee7

According to that then the difference is the number of splines on the half shaft side. My searches turned up the same as Les's, so cheers errol for solving my little mystery. Mav

Can anyone tell me the difference between these 2 CV joint parts. AEU2522 and RTC6862. The parts catalogue says its down to certain axle numbers, ok. but does anyone know what the actual differnce was to change the part number? Cheers Mav

Thanks for the feedback. I've got my eye an a coil over self centering damper, failing that I'll pop a standard one back on. The wander of the vehicle could be accounted too another few issues I've found, (like bent radius arms!!!) but I do remeber a distinct pulling to one side and having taken the swivals from the axel and feelig how little resistance is in them, I've got a feel the damper was to blame, it has a heck of a push, with effort I can retract the damper, so I figure it was manageing itself to push the steering to one side.

Hmm, thats what I did wonder, but I just wondered if it was preloaded slghtly to balance out the linkage resistance from being on one side. Come to think of it, it did want to wander one way when I last drove it... (9 months and counting). As a replacment, has anyone used a "return to zero" damper?

I have just removed a de carbon orange steering damper of my LR90 and it decided on extending to its full stroke by itself. Are steering dampers pre loaded like this, or is mine on its way out? Cheers Mav

I've been searching around to find out how close a Disco front axle is to a defender one, am I right in thinking that they are identical? also RRC uses the same bits but in a slightly different configuration, springs mounts etc? Cheers Mav

Oucha, someone stood on your toes?

Yes its sits on the same mounting points. make sure you take across what lrfarmer has outlined, or you will have to do a bit of drilling and tapping of the disco flywheel housing etc. The only difference between the engines are as western has oulined. also due to the relative power outputs of the engine being different (disco 111bhp - def 107bhp) the injection pump is set slightly differently. There is heaps and heaps of info on this conversion in the tech archive and on google. Mav

The defender handbrake acts the oposite way to a conventional side mounted one. so if you mounted it horizontal you'd have to push it down to put the brake on. - not so great.

Defo put the pedal boxes in after the steering wheel. Also don't go tightening up all the mounting bolts straight away, to get proper alignment of the doors you need to put them on with the wings and then tweek the spacer plates under the bulkhead and use the oval holes on the chassis/inner wing connections to give stability to the bulkhead, they play an important role keeping it where you put it.

Whatever floats your boat

I think it looks like a defender...

exactly my own thoughts... a milk float looks amazing companed to this thing, its a bit like a sooped up shopping trolly. - is that somthing to do with top gear...

Cheers western, hadn't spotted that link.

Do the switche plugs have corresponding part numbers too? I read that there was that dingcroft chap doing them, but would like to get em from lrseries as seen as I'm doing a bulk order. Thanks for the foot work.

Anyone got the number for the center part too by any chance?

Outstanding work - just what I was looking for, muchas appreciate gents.

Hello, Does anyone have the part numbers for the switches on the console - anyone know what otehr functions fill the blank holes? I just want on/off buttons to wire up to different light isolation switches. Cheers Mav

No, not ideal, to save on wireing I was debating on extending the earth to a direct chassis connection. Then just making sure I had good negative check straps at the other end.

Just perusing as usual, for some reason this sounds wierd... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1992-LAND-ROVER-90-DEFENDER-TURBO-DIES-WHITE-/300445217237?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item45f3ee31d5 Mav

If both lights are flickering together then 1) it could be a common earth problem but as the lights are eartherd locally, the only common earth will be one of the woven check straps comming off the gearbox to the battery. I'd say if that was problamatic you'd see other faults too... could be wrong. or 2) its a supply problem, what age vehicle is it? if its old like mine (85) then no relays so all the power goes through your switch gear - could be a problem with a switch. If later model with relays, are all your relays dry? I'm just repairing/re-building my harness, putting in relays etc. If you need any pic's just holla. Mav