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Maverik

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Everything posted by Maverik

  1. hmm on reading I need to look at the horn issue too, as there should be something coming from that.
  2. Legend! - I've been working off the 95 manual which I think is still referring to the single button keyfob type.
  3. So my new wee project car - 1997 Discovery 1 basic spec. I'm tying to piece together the original alarm/immobiliser system. Apparently from previous owner. It didn't have a fob so it was always used on the door key - the back up battery siren started smoking so it was removed by an "auto electrician", the stop solenoid immobiliser was removed and a cable was used to jump from the ignition to the solenoid directly. So, when I got it, every time you opened a door etc. all you would get was a clicking from the passenger footwell. What I have done. Sourced a 2nd hand 10as unit with 1 fob still programmed to it, I pulled the battery off, and swapped the new (with fob) D1 10as unit in, there was also 2 relays missing from the passenger side footwell, which I replaced. I also sourced a new injection pump solenoid immobiliser unit which I've installed. So I've not got central locking working off the fob, and I get 3 flashes from the lights to say the alarm is armed. - the volumetric sensors inside are also working as is all the door switches. so if you set the alarm off you get all the indicators start to flash. I do not however have the small LED located in the dashboard lighting up or even flashing at all. - the stop solenoid immobiliser unit also doesn't ever cut off 12v unless the ignition is off. I also have a battery back up siren - as soon as I plug the siren in, it just sounds off continuously... and I thought the alarm was hooked up to the horns too? but I've not had any sound from them either. I've tried all sorts of tests plugging in and unplugging various items and I've no joy. Even if you're sat in the car and lock it, you turn the ignition on and you get a red flashing key sign, you still get 12v at the stop solenoid immobiliser and you can still start the engine. I've had a good look about to see if anything else has been tampered with but I'm gripping at straws. I've got a borrowed nanocom on its way to see if I can talk to the 10as unit. Anyone have any idea's?
  4. Yup just looked at this myself. You can buy a replacement flange for about 40 squid on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134091393545 Our you can get a whole chest cover from britpart which are made in Turkey, just installed one and quite happy with the quality of it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121392874956
  5. That looks like it will fit with some small manipulation.
  6. I believe there are two types of tensioner units, one early type - which is derived from the 200tdi and a later type. Early type used the long bolt and the stepped washer with the oval cut out - this was very similar to the Discovery 200tdi set-up - picture of tensioner here (this is also whats shown in a lot of the parts manuals) - Tensioner Part number ERR1972 (from some google searches this part number also appears to bring up the later slotted type too which is not helpful.) 300tdi timing belt tensioner - Bing images - notice there is just a hole in the middle of the wheel. LR then changed to the more commonly seen tensioner - where they effectively moved the clamping mechanism to be integral and to the rear of the tensioner unit. - this just needs a the short hex cap head bolt to work. - Tensioner Part number LHP100860 300tdi timing belt tensioner - Bing images 300tdi timing belt tensioner - Bing images Both tensioners are interchangeable with any 300tdi.
  7. By the sound of it the Jaguar part is being torn apart too. Iconic British Land Rover brand to be dropped after 75 years as Jaguar goes all electric (bmmagazine.co.uk)
  8. When I set up my rev Tacho I bought a cheap later rev measure from ebay, used it a number of times now and its a great bot of kit. Handheld Digital Laser Rev Counter DT2234C Meter Non Contact Optical Tachometer | eBay
  9. I love how you can knock up a "quick" winch mount of that quality
  10. quick update - I installed the lamps the other day, initially a little bit tricky to align as they are of the flat beam type, but i seem to have got them in the realms of sensibility - I will take to a garage to get there feedback at some point too. I used them for the first time in the dark last night and I've been pleasantly surprised with the general performance, great low beam and really nice high beam spread. The only real comparison point was that I was struggling to see the originally installed lamp pattern when passing other traffic, I found my lights where being totally overwhelmed to the point you had an instant as cars passed where you couldn't clearly see the road verge/edge. So with the new LED lamps I found they where much clearer when passing other cars and the previous blotting wasn't happening. The beam pattern cut off is pretty clean and all in all I think they perform pretty well - I also wasn't flashed by oncoming traffic in any instance (which would suggest oncoming traffic didn't feel blinded). One slight annoyance is that after 2 minutes of having them on, there's already condensation on the inside of the lamp.
  11. Have a look for the diesel leak being the tank breather roll over 1 way valve... although never done one on a 90, I've done x3 on 110's.
  12. ok point taken - but speculation of no real sound base (but I know it could be likely) having said that Truck-lite looks similar. - again lets not go down a rabbit warren of the legalities of these headlights.
  13. Not an easy space to work, a tidy repair which will certainly extend the life of the chassis.
  14. Try whitbread 4x4, they can make anything, very impressive fabrications.
  15. This is great advice, but this has absolutely no content related to the topic of LED headlights... 😁 😉 please lets not go down any road traffic acts rabbit holes 👍
  16. Some good feedback, keep it coming. I made a purchase, its a set of the Lynx type - although not the Britpart ones - I found an alternative supplier on ebay, that look like they're identical bar the "Britpart" marking at the 6 o clock position on the lens - £150 inc postage. - LYNX LED DRL Headlights x2 for Land Rover Defender 7 Inch DOT E9 MARKED 7802C | eBay I find this highly ironic that I could be buying a knock off of a Britpart component. If they're pish they're pish. I'm lucky enough to have my 4 roof rack auxiliary Halogens as a back-up - in the snow, even they build up snow but the heat just about keeps them clear.
  17. Another vote for CTEK 5.0 - I've charged all sorts of batteries with it, all land rover type and its done the odd horse box type truck and tractor battery. They seem really good for deeply defunked batteries that other chargers just wont register.
  18. Hi folks, So I'm going to buy some LED headlamps, I've got a short list. I've been through a reasonable number of topics on here and other forums, going into to various rabbit holes etc so I appreciate this topic has been done to death shortly behind tyre choice etc but... I think there is scope for one more topic on the subject as follows. There must be a good number of LED headlight users on here now so I'd like to draw on your direct experience. If you've got 7 inch bowl type sealed LED headlights on your Land Rover, I'd ask you to share some basic info: What are they (name/brand/picture if they're generic Chinese ones - as there are many different lens configurations) Price paid Time you've had them installed User Pro's/Con's/general user comments Thanks you all and looking forward to some responses. Mav
  19. If you just want a few doing there are small machine shops all over that could mill to shape I reckon, if you're handy with a grinder you could also try that, but if it was me, I'd go find somone with a milling machine.
  20. You need to trace where you're getting voltage from, if your +ve switch is ok then you're highly likely getting a weird "back" voltage feeding the light via an earth. with the engine on with the fault showing, I'd start pulling fuses and relays individually - this might give you an indication as to what circuit you've got a fault in - i.e. the fault might have nothing to do with your light or light wiring, its just showing up there. I'd also be looking around the same area that light is earthed for any other circuits that are earthed in the same area of the car.
  21. I've got my Torsen ATB 24 spline with Ashcrodt HD halfshaft in the back of my 90 and now have 10 spine trutrac in the front. Quite simply its awesome. - I read a comment "I don't like the idea of not knowing when an ATB is locking" - this made me smile, as weirdly you just know when the ATB is working, we had a lot of ice here before Christmas and I drove up the lane and I was gobsmacked at how she went up, and you feel the axles locking up when each wheel lost traction. You also hear when they're working - its difficult to describe but when doing slow crawling work, you hear them working. I've had the rear ATB in 3 years and the front just 6 months, wouldn't go back to a truck without ATB's quite simply. Much improved on-road handling and super off-road too. Nige built both diffs, the Trutrac was to my spec. I rattle around the roads and do a greenlane type activities in the truck these days, if it gets to strenuous I reel out the Husky.
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