damanic

Best you can do for factory look LED headlights are the noldens. They were fitted to last run of special edition deefers, and the v8 works!

If the brown wire to VSR is plugged into the loom somewhere behind the dash, I cant find it. The only brown wire connector I can find that has continuity to the VSR is the split charge plug on the bulkhead. So I guess its easier to just hook that up to the starter solenoid seeing as its hovering just above it. If I do that I should get a good reading at the VSR, with barely any voltage drop. I have a 120amp alternator with upgraded wiring. My on dash volt meter reads steady at around 14v even when the 40amp electric fans start up. So the VSR should be good for my intended use. Apart from its usual rear demister duties the VSR will be switching an auxiliary circuit onto the starter battery when the alternator is running, and back onto the aux battery when the engine is off. The aux battery is charged via DCDC+Solar which has a limited amount of charging amps, so to maximise charge speed all loads are switched onto the starter battery / alternator when engine running, so that the aux battery can use all the given amps for charging. There are pros and cons to this I know. But for my set up and use patterns its ideal. Thanks all Mike: you might have voltage drop due to poor ground or bad wiring. Have you checked the volts output at the alternator?

That's what I thought western, so the brown wire 12v feed to the VSR comes from somewhere else and not via the three pin plug on bulkhead? Any idea where I can look for the loose connection?

Good to hear its working for you Mike. I am doing something similar, switching an auxiliary circuit between batteries depending on alternator output. Tim: I'm pretty sure I don't need the heated rear window switched on. The VSR is used as a negative trigger for the rear demister relay, apart from that it simply detects battery voltage and opens a path to ground when volts are over ~13.5. Regardless of alternator on or off, I have zero volts arriving at the VSR. This is a brown wire feed, which should be unfused direct to battery. So I am missing a connection somewhere. I guess I will wire the brown pin on the three port plug (pictured above) to the starter solonoid and that will be that. At least that's what the circuit diagram is pointing me towards. I'm still curious to know how that three pin plug (pictured above) was hooked up at the factory. The way I am reading it, there must have had a 12v feed plugged into it for the rear demister to work.

OK so I found a better diagram. It looks like the feed for the VSR comes in off the three pin plug in the engine bay. I thought this plug was just a take off for the factory split charge set up, but it looks like it needs to be hooked up for the VSR and rear demister to work. My Landy came from factory with a rear demister, so it looks like I am missing some wiring. So for those with a rear demister set up but no split charge system, how is the three pin plug hooked up? I'm trying to determine the factory method. Did they push a single bullet plug onto the brown 12v+ pin and run the wire to starter solenoid? Any one have a photo by any chance? I have added a pic of the wiring diagram, and my connector in the wind.

I want to use the yellow voltage sensitive relay (VSR) as a trigger for an auxiliary relay, bit I have zero volts coming in on the brown battery wire to the VSR . I have tested the VSR on the workbench, it works, but the relay plug behind the dash is not feeding it any voltage to detect. Looking at the wiring diagram the brown battery wire to VSR should be connected to the starter solenoid via a plug. But where is the plug? I have followed the brown wire as far as I can, it appears to roll into a large loom that goes through the bulkhead. But its hard to tell. Does anyone know where I can find this plug? I figure it must have been disconnected. I have found the three prong plug in the engine bay that is used for split charge (black-slate: vsr trigger / brown: bat+ / green*: ign+). It is not connected to anything , I suspect this is normal. I do not have 12volts on the brown wire here either. The brown/black-slate wires have continuity to the VSR. Below is a diagram of the circuit highlighting the plug I cannot find. Any ideas on how to restore power to the VSR appreciated.

Why Puma and not TD5, TDI, TD etc? Rename this forum section: 90, 110, 130, Defender Forum Me, pedantic?

well I have got power back going to the rear wiper fuse, so switch for rear wipe/wash is working. I could not find a four plug behind the center console or the instrument panel, instead I found a couple of white wires with bullet connectors, one male, one female. So stuck em together and presto. Bit concerned it is not correct though. This was the homeless bullet behind intrument cluster. Goes to the fuse for rear wiper. I could only find a mate in this single connector (left side). Concern is that this 12v ignition feed only has one wire, giving it approx. half the guage of the connection to fusebox which has two. The double connector on the right is dead, no current. White with brown trace. Not sure what it is supposed to connect to but there does appear to be some continuity between it and the fuse box connection for the screen demister. It is also wrapped in the same loom. Then there is this big fat ignition power feed. Putting out 12v on ign but I cannot find any free spade connections for it. Gonna leave the rear demister alone for now... off to the testers tomo. Hopefully they will be so impressed with the rear wiper/squirter action they will forget about testing the rear demister

thanks western, that'll help. I'll continue to hunt around behind the dash. A bullet connection must have popped out somewhere. Im actually doing the Australian 'MOT'. Over here all fitted wipers, squirters and demisters must work. If I loose patience I may just remove the wiper and squirter, I doubt they will bother to volt check the rear screen heater. cheers

Good resource this thread, #1 on google search for defender rear wiper wiring. Has helped me rule out a few things but I'm still stuck with my wiper not working. It used to work. Wiring question: If there is no power at the small extra fusebox with 2 fuses in (ign on), where might I find the missing connection? I cant tell from the wiring diagram where the 12v feed to the small fuse box comes from. I have to get an MOT, so need to get it working again, but so far I have a dashboard with its guts out and a puzzled face.

sounds like you just burnt out your headlight switch... that can happen when there is no relay! Happens a fair bit. You may not need a loom after all.

new tank, drill off the spot welds that joins the bottom bash plate to the tank, throw the plate in the bin, give an extra tough coat of paint to the tank, fit it with a flip down tank guard (gwynlewis). oh and if you havent got front mud flaps, get some.

For going back to standard.. 235/85... if you want bigger tires keep the lift.

Look to see if the+2 lift comes from spacers or longer springs. Check the radius and trailing arms to see if they are standard, they might have been castor corrected. Check the shock mounts are standard. After removing the lift check the shocks do not bottom out on full compression. Bumpstops might be longer than standard.

Dynamat xtreme is only good for stopping vibrations in panels and reflecting heat. It does next to nothing when it comes to stoping airborn low/mid feq noise! If the panel of you bonnet is wobbling and creating a noise then dynamat will help, but if you want to block engine noise passing through then you need a thick hoodliner. It would be cheaper and more effective to rip hood sound proofing out of a scrap cars to use under your bonnet. I have dynamat xtreme and dynamt hoodliner under my bonnet - result is very very minor noise attenuation... In a defener most of the uncomfortable noise comes from wind, vibration and a cold bare interior that amplifies it all. Hunt out and seal all gaps and holes, dampen all large surface interior panels with dynamat type stuff (you do not have to cover everything - just enough to stop the wobble), stick down a layer of closed cell foam wherever you can, this will help reduce the amount of sound that bounces around inside. Just getting the doors to seal properly makes a huge difference to noise levels on the moterway!