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Dave W

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About Dave W

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    North Yorkshire

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  1. I have a 2007 Range Rover (V8 Diesel, auto) and have had a strange issue recently and wondering if anybody with a similar age vehicle could help, say 2005-2008 date range ? The main set of keys for the RR got put in the washing machine and went through a full wash cycle, strangely this stopped them working ! The second key would unlock the vehicle and start it with the key but the remote wouldn't work. The "washed" key would open the doors but wouldn't unlock the ignition 9eventually that did start working again). We tried charging the second key while using it to drive around but no matter what we tried the remote wouldn't sync to the vehicle so we figured the battery must be dead after sitting in a drawer for a few years. We ordered a new key from LR using the VIN and our local independent added the key code to the RR using his test book BUT, the new remote wouldn't sync to the vehicle either. We tried driving for an hour with the new key in case it was supplied with a flat battery but, nothing doing. Much scratching of heads and calls to various experts and nobody could come up with a solution or figure out why a brand new key would refuse to sync. We had, by this time 3 keys that would operate the vehicle: #1 Originally worked fine but since going through the washing machine the remote stopped working although would now unlock the ignition after a couple of weeks to dry out. #2 The original second key, suspected flat battery after being unused for so long, wouldn't charge (or at least sync to the vehicle) #3 Brand new from LR wouldn't sync with the vehicle As there is no operation LED on the remote, I built a 433MHz receiver to test the fobs to see if they were transmitting, of the 3 only the brand new one was sending anything. I bought new batteries (and new cases) for the other 2 keys to see if I could resurrect them. Having replaced the battery in #2 key I put it on the test rig and.. nothing. This was odd as it used to work and hadn't been "washed" so should have worked with a new battery (old one only measured 2v and it's a 3v battery). Then I noticed a blip on my oscilloscope every time I pressed a button... as if there was some noise or cross talk from another channel. Which got me thinking and I double checked the markings on the original key fob cases and a photo I'd taken of the receiver in the vehicle and, lo and behold, 315MHz printed on them all except the new one from LR. Took the vehicle for a spin to charge up the battery in #2 and it sync'd first time but now I need a second, working, key ideally. LR insist my vehicle is 433MHz despite the fact that the date stamp on the receiver is 2007 (so presumably original) and both the original key fobs are genuine LR cases. #1 key is still not working even with a new battery so it's trip through the washing machine may prove to be fatal. So, could anyone with a similar age UK spec vehicle have a look at their key fobs (the writing behind the key blade when it pops out) and tell me what frequency it says and what year ? I'm trying to find out if older UK vehicles used 315 and mine was a "changeover" vehicle or if mine was built for export but then sold in the UK. It was definitely sold in the UK in 2007 so wasn't a Japanese import or anything as I have FSH and original sales documentation for it. The VIN must be correct because the key blade LR supplied works in all the locks.
  2. What happened to the Devon 4x4 forum?

    I don't think anyone is acting as admin on that group, I've been waiting to be accepted for a few months.
  3. What happened to the Devon 4x4 forum?

    They had a web site redesign and couldn't fix the problems with the forum login with the new site because the web developers were incompetent. At some point they then decided they couldn't be arsed to fix it and closed down the forum as an easy option. It's a shame but I suspect it was always a bit of a double edged sword, on the plus side they had an active community of off road competitors regularly visiting their site that they could sell to, on the down side they would get a bit of stick on there regarding some of their products and prices. I still buy stuff from them but only very occasionally now as, their site is no longer one I visit regularly so when I need parts I just go for the cheapest, which is rarely D44 ! i think I've placed one small order with them in the last couple of years.
  4. In before it gets deleted Mines not all that interested in working on cars but he's good at holding the ladder for me. He also likes to navigate for me at club trials...
  5. I have one available if you want to make me an offer... no idea if it's an original Warn item or it's been extended, if it's been extended they've done a good job on it ! It was already on my winch when I bought it and I replaced it with a freespool. Picture of the drum next to a standard one...
  6. Roll cage fitted by Land Rover?

    There have been a few models over the years that came with a "roll cage" although most/all of them wouldn't meet motorsport requirements. The earliest one I can think of was the NAS, others include the Defender Black, Tomb Raider and I think the 50th Anniversary version had one too. Then there's the military vehicles that had roll over hoops. Technically, I believe you could claim that anything produced by Land Rover Special Vehicles is factory fit so perhaps even camel trophy Defenders could be included in the list.
  7. Headlight MOT fail same again or LEDs?

    They do but some of them have a heater element in the cover to keep them clear of ice and snow.
  8. Road Tax

    It's daft to look at a small part of the tax burden on motorists. VED is a fixed charge that you pay annually regardless of mileage. In addition to VED motorists pay tax on lots of other things too, huge taxes on fuel, tax on insurance, tax on services and parts, tax on people going over the speed limit, tax for using some roads and so on. VED is often a very small part of the overall tax burden and it's always odd to hear someone suggesting we should "get rid of VED and put the tax on fuel" given that we already pay nearly 60p per litre in tax PLUS we get charged 20% on top of that and the "untaxed" portion too. So in round figures, if you pay £1.20 for a litre of fuel (including VAT), 80p of that is going to the government as tax. Yet, still people suggest we should get rid of VED and add more onto fuel... like paying 66% tax on fuel isn't enough already.
  9. New Defender mule

    If it were true, which I doubt, it would show just how little Land Rover understand about the "Defender" market although I guess a bobtailed RRS is about as innovative as the current JLR design team can get these days when VELAR (V Eight LAnd Rover) can be applied to a sub model without anyone at JLR thinking "hold on, aren't we devaluing our own history". The new Defender is actually going to be a trim level for a Discovery 5, the new "Discovery 5 Defender" with round tail lights as a tribute to their past and rubberised carpets throughout.
  10. MS3X - Thor Fuel Pressure

    I think you're giving too much credit to the Thor system, it simply has a regulator in the tank as part of the pump assembly, there's nothing special about it and can be used as is although, presumably as a result of the regulator, replacement pumps are outlandishly expensive. My guess is that they did it that way to save a few quid on pipework but then I'm a cynic... Regarding your design, the two reservations I would have are: 1) Purging air from your design will require the air being passed through the injectors, possibly leading to a lot of cranking being required to purge the air. 2) Heat soak might be an issue given that you have a dead end rather than a flowing circuit. That being said, the Thor system has a similar setup to your second option and it seems to work OK so should be fine, the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail allows you to bleed off some air if needed (fuel pressure measuring point) although I've never needed to do it.
  11. Just caught fire. !!

    More likely a bad or disconnected earth cable. The handbrake cable is an "alternative" earth path between the body and engine and, being a relatively small cable (compared to a battery cable) it can get very hot with the current running through it. Normally it causes sluggish starter motor turning and will get very hot as you start the vehicle but it really depends on which earth(s) are missing.
  12. D2 'alloy' wheelnuts question

    Locking wheel nuts...you normally only have 4 per wheel of the normal ones and one locking one which you buy as a set of 4 or 5.
  13. Due to circumstances outside our control, this event has now been postponed by 2 weeks and will now run on the 29th October and not the 15th. Apologies for the last minute change, any booked competitors who can't make the new date will be refunded in full. If an admin can alter the date on the original post, that'd be handy
  14. Twice a year we run a challenge event that aims to bring challenge back towards where it started - road legal vehicles, possibly equipped with a winch and a crew doing their best to navigate, cope with whatever terrain they come across and complete special tasks along the way. The event will consist of over 20 orienteering punches that will be graded into three categories according to their difficulty. Similarly, entries will be divided into three classes based on the vehicle's capabilities and competitors will only be allowed to attempt punches at or below their vehicle class. The status of this event means that all drivers will need to hold an MSA license (None Race Clubmans) . For those who do not already have a license, please bring a completed form to signing on. We will have some forms available although it's easier and saves time if you can bring them with you. Navigators need only a club membership card unless the crew intend to swap drivers. The three vehicle classes will be as follows: Class 1 is for vehicles not fitted with a winch, essentially our normal trials vehicles class. Class 2 are vehicles fitted with a single winch. Class 3 are vehicles with more than one winch and will also require basic rollover protection. More details and online booking are available on our web site... http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 We can also be contacted via Facebook... https://www.facebook.com/groups/225303763669/ Or post here
  15. If you're looking for a nice looking switch to control all this, I can recommend the CBE step switch, designed to be used to raise and lower the access steps on a motorhome it takes a single 12v input and switches the output to the motor internally so you just need two wires in (12v) and two wires out to the motor and the switch does the rest. the wiring diagram that comes with it also has an allowance for end stop switches although I've never bothered using those in my case. The CBE stuff gives a nice finish to the interior with lots of different options regarding modules you can use with them and surround colours.