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Dave W

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About Dave W

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  1. Due to circumstances outside our control, this event has now been postponed by 2 weeks and will now run on the 29th October and not the 15th. Apologies for the last minute change, any booked competitors who can't make the new date will be refunded in full. If an admin can alter the date on the original post, that'd be handy
  2. Twice a year we run a challenge event that aims to bring challenge back towards where it started - road legal vehicles, possibly equipped with a winch and a crew doing their best to navigate, cope with whatever terrain they come across and complete special tasks along the way. The event will consist of over 20 orienteering punches that will be graded into three categories according to their difficulty. Similarly, entries will be divided into three classes based on the vehicle's capabilities and competitors will only be allowed to attempt punches at or below their vehicle class. The status of this event means that all drivers will need to hold an MSA license (None Race Clubmans) . For those who do not already have a license, please bring a completed form to signing on. We will have some forms available although it's easier and saves time if you can bring them with you. Navigators need only a club membership card unless the crew intend to swap drivers. The three vehicle classes will be as follows: Class 1 is for vehicles not fitted with a winch, essentially our normal trials vehicles class. Class 2 are vehicles fitted with a single winch. Class 3 are vehicles with more than one winch and will also require basic rollover protection. More details and online booking are available on our web site... http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 We can also be contacted via Facebook... https://www.facebook.com/groups/225303763669/ Or post here
  3. If you're looking for a nice looking switch to control all this, I can recommend the CBE step switch, designed to be used to raise and lower the access steps on a motorhome it takes a single 12v input and switches the output to the motor internally so you just need two wires in (12v) and two wires out to the motor and the switch does the rest. the wiring diagram that comes with it also has an allowance for end stop switches although I've never bothered using those in my case. The CBE stuff gives a nice finish to the interior with lots of different options regarding modules you can use with them and surround colours.
  4. I think it would be, yes, you don't need much of an angle, just enough to ensure that the actuator and lever aren't directly in line. Even a small initial deflection will be enough to ensure the actuator is able to move the lever. On my bed it's only offset by around 1/2 an inch.
  5. One other thought regarding the linear actuator, you could, potentially use a ram as well to assist in the first part of the lift if you can't get the angle. The actuators have Essentially that's all a linear actuator is, uses a worm gear to turn the motors rotation into a linear movement. Hence the cheaper ones are quite slow but have a lot of torque (1500 Newtons with mine, which will lift 150Kg ish). At 5mm per second over a 400mm movement you just need to be patient !
  6. The scissors arrangement should work as you have it, on the proviso that the scissors never fully close. If the part anchored at B is allowed to be inline with the actuator when closed, it won't be able to open it. You could also look at make A-B as a single strut, mount B in a roller guide setup and attach the actuator to B. That would reverse the operation so the actuator would pull to open and push to close. Again though, ideally you want a slight angle when closed so it never fully aligns with the actuator. If you want to see a manufacturer's version of the design, see if you can find a VW California T5 or T6, they have an electrically operated pop top that is controlled by a linear actuator. From experience, when you buy linear actuators, remember to check their operating speed. I bought one to replace the ram on our rock'n'roll bed as it was exactly the same lengths so was a straight swap... only after fitting did I realise that it would take 50 seconds to go from one extreme to the other. It does the job but, in hind sight I'd have paid slightly more for one that was double the speed !
  7. MOT advisory, WATCH OUT !

    Same here, although I use wire with a length of shock cord to provide some tension in the wire.
  8. I bought one of the Sealey vacuum things for my VW van for testing/exercising the turbo vanes. I've since used it for bleeding the brakes on my MKIII Sankey and will definitely be trying it out as an alternative to my Eezibleed next time one of the Land Rovers need their brakes bleeding.
  9. No, it still uses hardwired switch inputs, the wifi/bluetooth just gives you different options too.
  10. There are two aspects to the immobiliser. The immobiliser itself will prevent the starter motor relay from energising if it is armed so, assuming you are using the full harness/relays than if the starter is turning then the immobiliser is not armed. The immobiliser sends a unique code to the engine ECU periodically and that code has to match the one stored in the ECU before the ECU will run the engine. If the AS10 and ECU came from the same vehicle than they should already be coded together, if not you will need to update the code in the ECU using Nanocom or similar. If you are seeing puffs of grey smoke from the exhaust then it is probably trying to run but a TD5 needs a lot of cranking to purge the air from it, assuming it's had no fuel in it at some point. There is a purge sequence for the primary parts of the fuel system (the fuel rail, filter and pipes) but the injectors themselves can only be purged by trying to start the engine. The fuel rail is purged by following the priming routine of pumping the throttle pedal 5 times after ignition on. It actually runs the fuel pump cycle as many times as you pump the throttle but 5 is normally enough for the fuel rail. Once the fuel rail is primed you just need to keep it cranking over with the throttle pedal to the floor. As each injector primes you'll find more puffs of grey smoke appearing until, eventually, it will start to fire on one or more cylinders. The injectors have their own fuel compartment inside them and it's only when the engine is being cranked and the injector is firing that the air can be removed from that compartment. Hence if a TD5 runs out of fuel it can take a while to start again.
  11. It's a solution for someone wiring a vehicle from scratch or someone who wants to rewire and get rid of the majority of the relays/fuses to tidy things up a bit. Essentially it's a small computer that has a series of inputs, from switches for example, and a series of outputs that can be turned on/off according to the inputs. So, instead of having a switch on the dashboard that controls a relay or switches a light directly, the switch on the dashboard sends a signal to this unit and it switches on/off the programmed outputs accordingly. Some of them have current sensors on each circuit and will automatically turn it off if too much current is drawn (like a fuse). Some have an app that allows you to remotely turn on/off the power to different circuits.
  12. With a bit of work you could build an Arduino one yourself for not a lot of money. I built a controller for my camper van with a tft touch screen display and I think total cost worked out around £80 in modules, connectors and wiring. Using MOSFETs to control the lights so they were dimmable and relays to control switched functions such as battery charge control and towing electrics. The only complexity with using MOSFETs on a car is that they work better on their own when switching the earth side rather than the supply. You can get around that though with a simple driver and a more expensive MOSFET but for my uses I'm happy to switch the earth on those circuits. My controller switches 6 lighting circuits via MOSFETs and 4 relays, has WiFi connectivity for use with a phone app, touchscreen TFT display mounted in the van as an alternative to the phone app, has GPS and an SMS text interface so I can send texts to, for example, turn the heater on when I'm walking back from the pub. It also doubles as an additional security device, allowing it to send me a text if the van moves while I'm out. Like all these things though you pay more for an off the shelf unit where it just works and you accept the limitations that the designer has built in or you build something yourself and go through the pain of development but at the end of it have something that meets your specific requirements. The main reason I built my own was that the off the shelf ones were very expensive and didn't do everything I wanted it to do.
  13. Calling all 109 owners!

    All the 109s I've seen have the turning circle of an oil tanker when compared to a 110. Whilst being narrower can be a benefit the huge turning circle and the lack of power steering make them really numb things to drive on road or off. It's not something I really noticed too much on my 88 but on the 109 it's a major issue for day to day use. Series vehicles certainly have a character of their own but having driven both extensively I know which one I would go for and it has power steering and coil sprung suspension !
  14. Rebuild Insurance

    I looked into this a few years back and couldn't get any joy, I gave up in the end and did what I could to ensure it's security during the build until it was back on the road. As you have found, unless it resembles a vehicle, car insurance companies don't seem to be interested. One of the main stumbling blocks seems to be the value, a pile of bits is difficult to put a value on when compared to a complete vehicle and if that pile of bits gets stolen, who will know what was there ? Maybe some of the classic car specialists could help, I only tried a few of the LR specialists when I was enquiring about it.
  15. Britpart Doors?

    Bearing in mind that this is now 13 years ago so my memory may be a bit vague ! I remember having to make the hole for the passenger door but not the driver's so that would make sense - fitting them to an ex-military Defender meant I have lock barrels on both doors and I ordered the Series door bottoms as, at around £60 each, it was a no brainer over repairing what I had. I also think I had to enlarge the holes in the top for the door top bolts to go into. Next set I'll see if I can get a LHD and RHD spec drivers door