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Dave W

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About Dave W

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    http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
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    North Yorkshire

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  1. An tips - seemingly impossible refit of fuel tank

    Next time ? Do yourself and any future owner a massive favour and fit an inspection panel above the pump assembly, that way the chances are you'll never have to remove the tank again. I removed the tank on ours once... after spending several hours persuading it to go back in again, the next time I wanted access to the pump I cut an inspection plate in the floor instead ! You can make a large enough cutout, without cutting any reinforcing ribs, to have easy access to the pump, it's pipes and electrical connector, as well as being able to remove and refit it. Faced with the job again I would never try and remove a 90 tank unless the tank itself was damaged in some way. Anyway, if you've not got it refitted yet, ISTR that using a second jack to lift the body up can help clear the axle but the tank is pretty much compressed against the underneath of the tub reinforcing bars to get the carrier/guard into position. As a result you kind of need 3 pairs of hands and a couple of trolley jacks. You may find that releasing the rear of the tub (the bolts across the rear cross member) will allow you to lift the blackbody a few mm, which is all it normally takes.
  2. Td5 conversion

    Bosch 044 is perfect although the Sytec equivalent is quieter, depends where you mount it and how noisy you like it ! I have an 044 behind the bulkhead, behind the seats, on my competition motor and you can certainly tell when it's running ! On our overland vehicle I tried the 044 but then swapped it for the Sytec as the 044 was just too noisy mounted on top of the chassis underneath the seat box.
  3. Td5 conversion

    Seems a bit of an odd conclusion to come to that using a very expensive and relatively unreliable pump designed to fit a plastic tank and cobbling it onto an aluminium tank is somehow the 'easy and reliable" way to go. The factory TD5 fuelling system is massively over complicated for what it does and by trying to shoehorn the factory overcomplicated design into another solution you're just going to give yourself an unnecessary headache, especially for a competition vehicle. With the exception of needing a fuel cooler, a TD5 needs nothing more complex than a petrol EFi. A pickup at the tank, a pre-filter, a pump, a primary filter and a return from the regulator via a cooler. Just like an EFi, you can also add a swirl pot although I've never found it necessary myself providing the fuel tank is baffled and has a built in swirl pot/sump design that the return pipe extends into. It runs at 60-70 Psi on the pressure side so nothing more than an EFi petrol system. It needs a cooler in the return because, unlike an EFi, the fuel being returned has spent a bit of time inside the cylinder head so can be quite hot.
  4. Bent steering rod

    When I had Dan Bars fitted I snapped a TRE, the TRE threaded part snapped immediately at the end of the Dan Bar. I put that down to the Dan bar design focussing the force and stress at that point. It could have been a bad TRE I suppose but there was no sign of any obvious manufacturing problems in the break, no air bubbles or signs of a stress fracture, just a clean break. It happened when I landed the bar on a tree stump. With the HD bars I've not had that issue although I've bent a few of them and a f***wit "marshal" on a challenge event managed to bend the tracking arm through an almost perfect S bend without damaging either the TRE or anything other than the bar. It was the first and last challenge event I'd done with that particular outfit. One thing with the HD bars, carry a spare if you can because IF you do manage to bend one you will NOT be able to bend them back without specialist hydraulic equipment ! The standard ones can normally be bent back using the weight of the vehicle but the HD ones... not a chance. The HD bars aren't unbendable and don't seem to be any stronger than the TREs but you won't bend them just by using the steering, unlike the OEM ones.
  5. Bent steering rod

    Britpart HD steering arms are excellent, you just need to replace the TREs at some point. Sumo are good too but more expensive than Britpart and no better. Dan Bars are/were the devil's spawn, they do the job BUT if you bend one even slightly then the two bars are permanently locked together. The only benefit they gave was that, at the time the ARC didn't allow aftermarket (Sumo) bars so Dan Bars were a way of getting around the regulations.
  6. Which V8 efi pump for a 90 TD5 tank

    The only issue I had with fitting a P38 sender into a 90 tank (Gems V8 rather than Thor) was that the fuel level sender seemed to be a different resistance range to the 90 gauge which mean that the fuel level gauge was all over the place. It's a while ago now but I vaguely recollect having to put a variable resistor in line with it to get it to read somewhere near. I had to modify the P38 unit to shorten it slightly but I think the Disco II is already short enough, the Disco I sender I have now needed no modification at all to fit the 90 Defender tank although, again, I'm not sure about the Disco fuel level sender - I built my own controller that monitors and displays the levels in both tanks simultaneously and drives the dash fuel gauge according to whichever tank is being used. The controller is calibrated in 5 litre sets for tank so I don't think I ever tried it direct to the gauge.
  7. Which V8 efi pump for a 90 TD5 tank

    Yes, as far as I know all the Thor pump/sender units have the regulators built in. Fitting an aftermarket regulator isn't an issue though and you can also hook the regulator up to the inlet so it can boost the fuel pressure at high engine loads. The Disco II unit will fit, you might want to make an access panel though so you don't have to drop the fuel tank to get to it if it fails.
  8. Which V8 efi pump for a 90 TD5 tank

    No need to use an in tank pump or a lift pump, just use an external EFi pump, they'll lift the short distance needed for the task without any problem (unless you're thinking of fitting the pump in the roof !) I use the same pump for my LS1 and my TD5 (well, the same part number anyway) without any issues, both external, both mounted above the chassis and both with pre and post filters. After market pumps will normal state the lift capability and as long as you stay within that you'll be fine. An external pump is easier to maintain and having a pre filter pretty much means it should last forever. I tend to use Sytec pumps, the Bosch 044 is the business but VERY noisy while the Sytec equivalent is cheaper and quieter. fuelpumpsonline are a good source of info and do some really nice inline canister filters... https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk Once you've decided on a pump model number just check the price elsewhere, sometimes they are competitive on price, sometimes not so much !
  9. Fuel Nozzle ISO Standard

    I'll probably concentrate on the "normal" nozzles and design around those but give some extra space just in case. As we're almost exclusively in the UK/Europe at the moment it's less of an issue anyway. It was more an issue when we were in Australia as they often have "truck" style pumps on the forecourt and many times it was really handy to be able to use them for the rear tank. Sadly it's unlikely we'll get back to Australia with the 90 so it's more of a "would be nice to have" than a requirement.
  10. Please talk me out of buying this L322

    L322s have dropped in price a lot over the last couple of years, you get a lot of vehicle for that money ! The only downside to them really, even when compared to the P38, is that they are horrendously complex - brilliant when they work but an absolute PITA and spendy when something goes wrong. They do go well though and are a world apart from previous Range Rovers, I thought my P38 was a nice car until I got an L322 and realised what I'd been missing. Go for it !
  11. Fuel Nozzle ISO Standard

    Good find ! That will probably be enough as I think the only difference between them is the diameter of the nozzle which I already have as 23.8mm for normal forecourt diesel and 28mm for commercial diesel. I'll compare that to the model I downloaded and see if they match...
  12. Fuel Nozzle ISO Standard

    I have tried something similar but it didn't work out too well last time, hence the issues with filling as a result ! According to my paper model the nozzle should be able to fully locate into the neck... but it doesn't. If I'm going to go for a redesign I'd rather get it right and, preferably, suitable for all nozzles. The ISO standard should lay out the exact parameters used which the nozzle manufacturers stick to. If the dimensions of the CAD model I've printed out doesn't match the nozzles at the petrol station then that would suggest either the model was incorrect (always possible) or there is some wiggle room in the standard. In which case I might well take some graph paper with me as plan C !
  13. Fuel Nozzle ISO Standard

    This is plan B, although I'd still love to get hold of the official specs ! I printed this based on a CAD model, the model looks to be based on one of the large diesel nozzles (high speed truck filler) as it's a bigger diameter than the usual none commercial diesel filler on the forecourt. Given that we regularly filled up the rear tank from truck pumps in the past I figure it'd be worth trying to get it to fit the auxiliary filler too. If it looks right against a pump tomorrow I'll print out a normal diesel version (23.8 mm) too.
  14. Fuel Nozzle ISO Standard

    Already been down that route, hence my frustration that the standard spec for something used throughout the world is held to ransom by a single body. Not even the Chinese and Russian sites seem to have a free copy and they're not usually averse to a bit of copyright infingement ! Mind, the time I've spent searching the internet I could have just paid for the spec and earnt more ! It's the principle though I think I may have a solution though... I found a few free to download CAD models, am printing one out now and will take it to the petrol station tomorrow to see if it matches.
  15. Fuel Nozzle ISO Standard

    It's not ventilation that's causing it in this case, it's the way the nozzle presents into the filler neck. The filler neck is either too short or at the wrong angle which means that the fuel is splashing back from the wall of the filler tube into the sensor pipe. As well as causing the pump to cut out it also means fuel spills out of the filler. If I can get the angle and curve of the neck right then the nozzle, when fully home, will be pointing directly down to the tank so should fill cleanly... in theory !
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