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Dave W

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Dave W last won the day on November 30 2018

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About Dave W

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  1. The ECU can easily be changed from Discovery to Defender by anyone with a Testbook or equivalent (did mine with an Autologic one). Only takes a few minutes, just remember to take a note of the injector codes before you start although, that said, it would be worth checking those against the engine anyway. I'd assume that anyone that didn't bother changing the vehicle type on the ECU probably didn't bother coding in the injectors either...
  2. It's definitely worth trying a different set of wheels/tyres if you can. I spent months trying to find a similar issue on a Range Rover classic that would start to oscillate really badly after hitting any kind of bump at speed. In my case it was the tyres that were at fault although there was no visible sign of a problem. Wheel spacers can also hide problems so removing them from the equation is definitely a good idea.
  3. The place I spoke to a couple of months ago said they were happy to take it "as is" and said the only problems they'd had was with some water based paints which their cleaning bath doesn't strip. They use some form of acid/stripping bath to clean the chassis prior to the galvanising bath and seemed to think it would be fine. I was surprised they'd take a used chassis TBH as I'd spoken to a few places that wouldn't touch them due to the issues of contamination. As soon as I said what it was I wanted galvanising they seemed to know what to expect and said that their cleaning/stripping process wo
  4. In my case I was working on a bare chassis and spent many hours prepping it, following the instructions to the letter. It may be that in lab conditions POR-15 works fine and it may also be that on a chassis which didn't spend half it's life immersed in mud, banging over tree roots and rocks, it would work fine. The reality though is that it's sold for DIY use and it's sold as a way of protecting a chassis and, in that respect it fails on both counts IME. It's annoying because I was sold on the idea that this coating would protect the outside of the chassis for many years, saving me my current
  5. Regarding POR-15, I painted my chassis with it 17 years ago. I used the recommended preparation acid stuff etc... My biggest issue with it is that it forms a "skin", sticking to itself really well, that means that if it's damaged or hasn't keyed properly it traps moisture between itself and the chassis with the inevitable results. As I'm currently repairing the bare chassis it's easy to see the parts where it bonded well... and the parts where it didn't. I've touched the paint up a number of times over the years and it's the original bits that looked fine from the outside that are the worst
  6. I've shipped vehicles to Australia 3 times now. Twice I shipped my competition vehicle out for the OBC and more recently shipped our 90 out for a 6 month drive around Australia. For the OBC we shipped 3 vehicles in a 40ft container, for our drive around we shipped the single vehicle in a 20ft container. It takes a while to ship, if you can you'll want to allow 3 months. I believe the requirements are similar to NZ in that you need to get the vehicle through customs and quarantine. Customs is easy really, just need to have the numbers that match the documentation and away you go as it
  7. One more thing, I just remembered ! The military version doesn't have a normal light switch. I think the two reds are the side lights and the blue is the headlights. I vaguely remember running 3 wires across to the civilian switch to accommodate the normal switch on mine, one from the brown for power, one for the two reds and one for the blue.
  8. Looks like the one on the left and yes, the solid brown wire. The brown/white is a bit vague from the diagram of the switch, however, I suspect that needs to be connected to the brown too as, from the wiring diagram, it looks to supply power through a fuse to various other circuits. This is the diagram for the switch, connector 1 plugs into the connector on the left which is connector 32 on the main wiring diagram. You'll also see item 31 on the main wiring diagram which I think may well be a master switch that connects the brown and brown/white wires together. I have my loom out
  9. It's the 8 way plug that used to connect to the convoy lights btw. The brown wire needs to be connected to the two red wires, the pink wire and the red/brown wire to simulate the switch in the normal position.
  10. If it's the military harness (which it does look like) then you will need to join some of the wires together to get lights, indicators, brake lights etc... working. I have a wiring diagram somewhere, I'll PM you a link. I have a 1990 110 V8 ex-military which will use the same harness.
  11. It makes no difference which side you switch, negative or live. The FIA switch has 3 independent switches, the main one for the power and two additional ones that are used to stop the engine and put a load on the alternator. That's the difference between an "FIA Switch" and a "battery cutoff switch". I personally prefer to switch the live but it's not an issue switching the earth as long as you remember to make sure that the alternator load resistor is connected to the unswitched earth (the same earth the alternator is connected to). There is a regulation (not sure if it's MSA or FIA) for all
  12. Just Enough Essential Parts was the version I was always told. Regarding the IPO thing I think Land Rover pretty much shot themselves in the foot on that when they released the new vehicle with a Defender badge on it. The fact that the company is willing to completely throw away the "iconic shape" and replace it with another Freelander/Discovery shows that the only value of that shape for them is in dodgy marketing, pretending that the new vehicle has any connection with it's past.
  13. I had one fail due to it getting crimped, never found out how it got crimped though so I could only think that it got caught up on something, there was a definite crease in the stainless steel outer. The inner tube is relatively fragile so any fault or gap in the outer layer can be an issue so check for any signs of damage or fraying. It's always worth checking you've not been using your brake lines as axle check straps too... you wouldn't be the first ! Put full left lock on, cross axle the vehicle with the left front wheel high and see if it's your brake pipes taking the weight of the
  14. Grease lubed wheel bearings with a damaged seal (or just badly fitted) tend to fail rapidly and catastrophically, usually when you're traveling at high speeds on a major road. They also aren't as well sealed as the oil lubed setup so are prone to issues with water ingress after driving through relatively shallow water. Oil lubed bearings give you plenty of notice of a problem, tend not to weld everything together and have a visual indicator of any minor problems with the seals It would be worth considering converting (very sure there is a topic about it around here somewhere !) at s
  15. That is a fair distance away ! You could mount a bracket using the throttle body bolts if you wanted to go down that route, replace the bolts with longer versions so the two nearest the throttle are long enough to be exposed at the back (look to be threaded all the way through), then use nuts on the exposed thread to attach a simple bracket. Ordering 2 custom cables is probably quicker and easier though
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