Dave W

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About Dave W

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  1. Can you see the Amazon mp3 file in the finder or do you need to know how to find it ? There are a number of utilities on the App Store that will clean the Mac stuff off your SD Card. CleanMyDrive 2 looks like a good free one, interesting that the second review for the app says that he used it to clean all the carp off a flash drive so it would work in his car stereo... Macs store a lot of hidden information on drives, including external ones, to speed up mounting and to allow indexing of the contents. Being a unix based operating system they assume that by adding a . at the start of the name it will be ignored by anything trying to read the drive. Sadly, most car head units are pretty badly programmed and will try to read these "hidden" directories first and, not making any sense of the content, will show the drive as unreadable or unusable. The app above can be used to remove all those hidden folders before you eject it. You can also create your own .mp3 files from any audio source you are playing on your Mac, including iTunes, Amazon music player and Spotify etc... using an nifty application that "captures" an audio stream from an app or audio port and streams it to an mp3 file on your hard disk. I would never condone such a thing myself but, apparently, you can decode DRM protected files that way or download whole albums from Spotify as mp3s. https://rogueamoeba.com/audiohijack/
  2. You may have a combination of issues going on. First off you are trying to use a music file that was purchased from iTunes and may well be encrypted so it can only be played by iTunes. Second, you are using a .m4a file instead of .mp3, it may be that your head unit supports AAC but it's possible it's not recognising the .m4a extension so you might want to stick to .mp3 until you isolate the problem. Third, it is possible that the hidden directories that the Mac creates might be confusing the head unit. This is a difficult one to fix but there are apps available on the app store to do it or you could write an AppleScript or drop into unix and do it from the command line.
  3. Regards the single button mouse, hold the control key down and click, that gives contextual menus. .m4a is not normally recognised by head units in most cases, they may understand the codec but not the compression (mp4 part). It's very easy to use iTunes to convert to MP3 though. You can select your entire library or just a playlist, go to the file menu -> convert -> create Mp3 version If your music is copy protected then you won't be able to create an MP3 version though and you won't be able to play it on your head unit. You can then use File -> Show in finder, this will take you to the folders where your music is stored and you can simply copy them. Alternatively, as you have a CD burner, you can use the Burn playlist to Disc option and select MP3 as the format then copy that to your SD card.
  4. It's an old 110 V8 so a lot heavier duty/deeper than a 90 chassis, the crossmember near the brake is one that was added to support a centre mounted winch under the floor. My gearbox is a LOT longer than the Ford setup otherwise it'd be nowhere near that crossmember.
  5. Been out to look at mine to try and see where you might be having an issue and took a pic for comparison. Bear in mind my transfer box is around 15cm further back than a standard setup due to the long gearbox adaptor between the gearbox and transfer box. I still can't see on your pictures what is catching, is it the operating arm catching on the cross member or something catching on the chassis rails ? If the latter, maybe the gearbox mounts are too low ?
  6. Can you take a wider picture, looks to me like you've not fitted it correctly but difficult to tell from a close up pic of a tiny part of the brake.
  7. I found a few pics of mine, might help... might not The sticker is on the driver's side on the main hoop behind the driver's seat.
  8. Not exactly bolt in, no. They were supplied with plates similar to the ones on the bottom of the cage, these had nuts welded to them and were welded to the floor after cutting suitable holes. That said, that was for the FIA version of the cage, for the none competition version you can probably just bolt through the floor/sill. From memory you install them from the front backwards and you may need to cut part of the dash away depending on the model. They are a pain to get into position and until you get the front legs bolted to the floor you'll feel like you need 6 hands. You also need to get the windscreen top bar in before putting the main hoop in, again this is from memory as it's nearly 20 years since I installed mine !
  9. The difference is in the angle of the backplate from memory. On the Disco the calliper is mounted in a different place to clear the body. No reason why they wouldn't fit to an 88 inch, it's a shame you don't gain any extra length for the rear prop shaft by changing them !
  10. I was dubious at first but if you compare the ratings of the single pole solenoids with the ratings of the winch control solenoids that people have been using for 20 years, you'll see that they are rated pretty much identically. It's a while since I researched it but from memory if you download the Albright specification sheets for both there's nothing to choose between them. I don't pretend to fully understand the ratings as I have an electronics background, not electrical. Many of the current specifications are to do with switching current and not passing current and much of that is voltage related and indicates, as I understand it, the current and voltage that the devices can switch, not what they can pass. As an example, if a circuit is passing 300A and you open the switch at that point, especially with higher voltages, the contacts can be damaged as the contact areas separate from each other. The transition between 0 ohms and infinite ohms in the contacts is not instant and for the fractions of a second in between the current can arc between them. That's not to say that 300A is the maximum it can pass, it's what it can switch. In a cut off solenoid the chances are it will never switch anything like the current that a winch control solenoid might. I spent many hours pouring over data sheets and talking to control gear experts that deal with this stuff all the time and the conclusion was that I was worrying too much about it. Having run this setup for many, many years I've never had a solenoid fail although I've been through a few winch control solenoids in that time.
  11. The MSA technical committee specifically stated that that did NOT meet the regulations and this was confirmed by the MSA cross country committee and Ian Davis in November, 2010, I have the letter from the MSA confirming this somewhere if you really want to see it. I suggested that the winch solenoid could be interpreted as an isolator providing it was controlled via the FIA switch, as you describe. This was rejected out of hand by the MSA at the time and their view has not changed. The technical committee felt that the winch solenoids had to be isolated under the existing regulation. When the regulation stated that ALL electrical items should be isolated from the battery by a single switch, they included winch solenoids in those "electrical items". I had an, at times, quite heated "discussion" with the MSA regarding the implementation of the new challenge regs and it's taken 6 years for then to finally agree and amend the regulations. Similarly, another "trick" that people use to make the FIA switch easier is to wire the alternator direct to the battery, this also doesn't meet the regs then or now. Just because you weren't pulled up at scrutineering doesn't mean it met the regs, the fact that you couldn't actually meet the letter of the regs regardless of setup meant that most scrutineers simply ignored them. How many people were running illegal D shackles, for example, prior to the regulation change ? Come to that, how many people are still using really old D shackles that have now been made illegal as a result of the regulation change ! The new regulation also doesn't allow the winch solenoid to be the only means of isolating the winch btw.
  12. It was rewritten to allow two switches and also to make it clear that you could also use a solenoid to isolate the winches. IMV the latter is always the best option, use an Albright single pole solenoid for each winch next to the battery (you could use 1 for more than 1 winch but I prefer to keep everything independent), that way you can easily wire it so it will only activate when the ignition is on (turning off the ignition removes power from all winches), have a master switch on the dash that disables all winches, fed from the ignition, and when you turn the power off with your FIA switch the winches are also isolated. One master switch kills everything, engine and winches, without putting too much current through the FIA switch. I was responsible for the regulation amendment although the MSA modified the wording slightly which, IMV, made it less clear but that's their job ! Prior to the regulation change nobody complied with the regulation as it was worded, more the "spirit" of the regulation. Edit... sorry, nobody running electric winches I should have said !
  13. It will but you will need to drive it as a PWM valve with resistor on one side. There's a recent thread on this on here somewhere. The MS3X is the only one that can control it in the way the Thor system does (by controlling both sides of it) but using it as a PWM works really well anyway.
  14. MS2 is about $60 more expensive if you're buying from scratch (cost of an MS1 kit versus the cost of an MS2 kit) $279 for MS2 $219 for MS1. To upgrade an existing MS1 to MS2 is around $100 Performance wise the MS2 processor is a massive upgrade over the MS1 version both in speed and capabilities. It's that speed that allows it to make much finer adjustments to everything so, in simple terms, while the MS1 can adjust the fuel being injected in 256 steps the MS2 can adjust it in 1024 steps. Ignition timing is also more accurate and the MS2-Extra firmware is much more advanced than the MS1 version as the processor can support it. There is a version of firmware that runs on MS1 and was kind of the predecessor of MS2-Extra, called MS1-HR (high resolution) which sacrificed some functionality (like dual tables) for finer control and that can be used as a stepping stone but it's not been updated very much since it's inception as so few people are running it. MS2 is quicker to respond to events and has a much finer control of ignition and fuel. The firmware is far more advanced than MS1-Extra and takes advantage of the speed and capabilities of the processor to give you much better control of all aspects. The downside of MS2 versus MS1 is that all the options can take longer to get used to and mistakes in the configuration can be harder to identify. As long as you are methodical and make regular backups of your configuration it's not really an issue though.
  15. If you're using a Thor top end then you don't need stepper control and I can't think of any good reasons to ditch Thor in favour of Gems. Thor uses an IAC that can be controlled directly by any of the MS ECUs with just standard modifications. So, MS2x would be my choice as it's quick, smooth and reliable without the costs of an MS3X setup. I've updated my ECU to MS2X twice now and both times been impressed with how smoothly the engine runs compared to MS1x. Sadly both times I've ended up selling the MS2x on to someone else after being offered decent money and gone back to the old faithful MS1x. I should build another MS2 ECU but I haven't had the time. MS1x is solid and reliable, just a bit "agricultural" when compared to MS2 but then I've been running MS1x for over 15 years now on the same ECU without a problem so there's something to be said for it's "agricultural" nature !