Dave W

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About Dave W

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    North Yorkshire

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  1. Britpart Doors?

    Bearing in mind that this is now 13 years ago so my memory may be a bit vague ! I remember having to make the hole for the passenger door but not the driver's so that would make sense - fitting them to an ex-military Defender meant I have lock barrels on both doors and I ordered the Series door bottoms as, at around £60 each, it was a no brainer over repairing what I had. I also think I had to enlarge the holes in the top for the door top bolts to go into. Next set I'll see if I can get a LHD and RHD spec drivers door
  2. Rear near side and towing electrics

    It depends, normally the towing loom is connected into the off side rear corner and there is provision there to pick up the left nearside tail light feed. The chassis loom takes that route, after exiting the chassis just underneath the off side rear corner it comes up into a multitude of bullet connectors under the cover behind the rear lights before heading across the rear cross member to the near side lights. If you've lost your near side rear lights and your towing electrics it's probably the earth connector in the off side rear, it's a multiway female block that all the bullet connectors push into. It's a horrible system, I removed all the bullet connectors from mine, hardwired the connections together (soldered and sleeved) and converted to the later lights with 2 and 3 way econoseal connectors. At least now I only lose 1 light when there's a fault and it tends to be a hard fault rather than an intermittent one.
  3. Have messaged you with a link
  4. The MOD loom, on mine at least, is completely different to the civilian loom of the same period, not just a different layout but different colours too. Converting it fully to civilian lighting switches isn't a 2 minute job. On mine I added the stalks and extended all the cables from the stalks to the centre of the dash being the convoy switch and hooked it in one circuit at a time. Everything you need is there, just takes a bit of finding. I have the military wiring diagram for mine (a 1990 110) somewhere if you need one.
  5. Recommended Tuners for 4.4 TDV8?

    I don't think many people would argue that the TDV8 was too slow... probably why the aftermarket tuners aren't going to throw huge amounts of time at a product that very few would want. I've considered getting a remap for my TD5 Defender and my VW T5, both of which have a lot of options available when it comes to after market tuning. I've not once contemplated the same for my Range Rover !
  6. Advice on Roll Cage.

    Not sure what options you have but you could look for a club that doesn't have it's own odd roll cage regulations. As above, does the cage meet MSA requirements ? I had a cage in my Range Rover that was FIA and MSA registered and could be used in Rally Raid, stage rallies, hill rallies etc... without a problem but I couldn't compete at a local comp. safari or ccvt with my ALRC club. I just went to another club instead, was a lot cheaper and the competition was/is a lot better. Might be different here though as there is a lot of choice when it comes to clubs in Yorkshire. It'd be worth talking to the club even if they are an ALRC club, if your cage meets MSA spec, because many ALRC clubs run outside their regulations anyway so there may be more leeway than you think. Our local ALRC club often allows vehicles to compete that don't comply with ALRC regulations just to fill out the numbers.
  7. Britpart Doors?

    Britpart can be variable in quality depending on the supplier but I bought a new set of lower doors for mine (actually a military Defender but the door bottoms are the same) in 2004. They came as "blanks" so I had to cut a hole for the door lock barrel (The actual lock/handle mechanism was catered for just not the door locks) to go through but other than that they fitted OK, I figured that they were cheap enough so it didn't really matter how long they survived. After 10 years they started to bubble at the bottom although the frames seem OK, I should have coated the inside with some wax before fitting but was in a hurry at the time and there's far more damage from rocks and trees than corrosion !
  8. Welding Mask/Helmet

    I have an auto darkening helmet, not sure of the make off the top of my head, it was on special offer at the BOC gas place when I was in and it was a LOT better than my previous one. That said though it seems to be all or nothing no matter where I set the level, it's nice and clear when "off" but as soon as I start welding I can barely see anything outside the arc which makes welding a bit of a guessing game sometimes ! The number if times I've done a really nice looking weld... about 5 mm away from the join ! All the helmets seem to have a similar adjustment range but is there a helmet that will let me see what I'm welding without melting my eyes too ?
  9. Anyone going to Kelmarsh ( Billing ) show

    Not sure how much has changed but I was involved with the original Kelmarsh event planning and, at the time, it promised to be a much better event than Billing. Unfortunately, at the time, it never happened but I thought the venue was MUCH better than Billing and so was the off road course. Security would have been a huge improvement because there are no public rights of way into the venue and, more importantly, no "residents" in static caravans that have very close ties with the thieves that infested the Billing event. We were looking forward to a venue where the show organisers could actually turn people away who shouldn't be there. I hope that Kelmarsh finally gets the chance to live up to the expectations and we can finally put Billing to rest once and for all, something which should have happened years ago.
  10. LT230 ATB

    I've never been fully convinced by the BW thing. From driving them and repairing them it always seems to me that the perceived view (as described in the advertising literature) is that it locks up when needed but the reality is the opposite to that, it actually releases when it reaches a set torque front to rear and is, otherwise, permanently locked. When they go wrong they tend to stop releasing altogether, staying permanently locked even when the torque across them exceeds the set point where it should release to avoid wind up. I tried the transmission brake thing but never had much success with it, there were always a lot of different theories about the potential or otherwise of the BW box but in side by side comparisons there was never a clear cut outcome that suggested the BW gave any competitive advantage other than it's strength. I think you probably get a bigger advantage by using larger diameter tyres on the front axle which you don't want to do with a BW box really. What I'd really like is a mod to the LT230 that lets you precisely control the diff lock, maybe replacing the mechanism with a solenoid with a more positive engagement and disengagement. In my perfect world I would then have a control button that, in trials mode, would release the diff lock while pressed and reengage it as soon as I let go of the button so that during "safe" tight turns I can flick it out and no that it will disengage and then, more importantly, it will instantly reengage rather than engaging 5 seconds after I needed it ! I did toy with the idea of an Atlas 2 speed box as that gives the positive control, in low range at least, of sending drive to either axle or both axles as required so you can shift either axle into neutral while driving the other axle. If I were competing more seriously that would be my preferred route, maybe even an Atlas 4 if I was feeling really wealthy...
  11. LT230 ATB

    I trialled for a while with ATB (Quaife) diffs in my Range Rover and they gave no advantage whatsoever so I replaced them with air locking diffs instead so at least I knew what they would do and when. The only advantage, to me, is their strength and I think that's where the ATB Transfer boxes are being sold. You really need to know when it's locked and when it isn't and I suspect you'd get more joy by making sure your "manual" diff lock engages and releases smoothly so you can put the diff lock in/out mid section as required. I also tried a Borg Warner transfer box at one point but other than being stronger (in that you couldn't kill it by forgetting to put the diff lock in) it didn't give any advantage and not being able to flip the diff lock in and out when required was frustrating sometimes.
  12. Speeduino - Arduino based EFI

    It does seem a bit confused, the site talks about using a Mega 2560 R3 which is the 8 bit 16MHz RISC chip but then the assembly video shows him using a Due. I guess which MCU you use will depend on your needs. One of the strengths of the Arduino IDE is the ability to use identical code for diverse environments so I suppose you can use the cheaper Mega2560 unless you run into limitations. Looking at the source code it has some adaptations depending on the destination board type so it's optimised for both architectures.
  13. Speeduino - Arduino based EFI

    That's an Arduino Due, you might want to check the specs a bit more closely... it's a 32bit ARM core micro controller running at 84MHz so pretty similar to an STM32 Nothing wrong with using a board that's cheaply and widely available and has a freely available multi-platform IDE
  14. Have you had the V8 flywheel machined to use the Series 3 clutch plate or are you trying to use a v8 clutch on the flywheel ?
  15. Slightly OT I Guess

    Can you see the Amazon mp3 file in the finder or do you need to know how to find it ? There are a number of utilities on the App Store that will clean the Mac stuff off your SD Card. CleanMyDrive 2 looks like a good free one, interesting that the second review for the app says that he used it to clean all the carp off a flash drive so it would work in his car stereo... Macs store a lot of hidden information on drives, including external ones, to speed up mounting and to allow indexing of the contents. Being a unix based operating system they assume that by adding a . at the start of the name it will be ignored by anything trying to read the drive. Sadly, most car head units are pretty badly programmed and will try to read these "hidden" directories first and, not making any sense of the content, will show the drive as unreadable or unusable. The app above can be used to remove all those hidden folders before you eject it. You can also create your own .mp3 files from any audio source you are playing on your Mac, including iTunes, Amazon music player and Spotify etc... using an nifty application that "captures" an audio stream from an app or audio port and streams it to an mp3 file on your hard disk. I would never condone such a thing myself but, apparently, you can decode DRM protected files that way or download whole albums from Spotify as mp3s. https://rogueamoeba.com/audiohijack/