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Dave W

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Dave W last won the day on November 30 2018

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About Dave W

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    http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
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    North Yorkshire

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  1. It would be worth contacting any decent local independents, many of them have an arrangement with the local franchise dealer and can often offer things like that at a reduced cost without the same markup. I got a new key for my Range Rover this way and it was about half the price the main dealer quoted.
  2. Main dealers can supply them, had to get one for ours and we just had to take the V5 and proof of ID form what I remember. It came stamped with the VIN number. You should also have one on the top of the bulkhead, at the bottom of the windscreen.
  3. Dave W

    Paddocks Jump Start packs

    There's a lot of power in LiPo/LiOn batteries for such a small size and these jump packs do work although the lead acid versions are cheaper and work just as well... just take up more space. There are better and cheaper versions available than the one listed though, this one for example... https://amzn.to/2CxMxZM I've not used a modern one but the older lead acid versions I've used have always worked well, as long as you remember to keep them charged up !
  4. As i understand it, you left the handbrake on while driving ? That being the case, it's a diff or half shaft gone in your rear axle. If the rear axle was in one piece then you would not be able to drive with the "hand brake" on as it would effectively lock the rear axle unless you also removed the rear prop shaft. It's unlikely to be the viscous, if it was you'd have lost all drive, front and back, not just rear. If the centre diff (viscous) wasn't working at all you wouldn't have drive to the front but it sounds as if it's functioning as you'd expect with the transmission brake on - all drive going to the front. BUT it would only need to have the brake on if the centre diff was no longer locked and was slipping. The viscous diff on these is, effectively, locked all the time with the diff "slipping" when the front/rear torque is different. It sounds to me as if you've had an issue in the rear axle, the viscous diff has compensated for it and now the viscous diff has given up and is slipping. If you can easily turn the rear propshaft (with the handbrake off) and all wheels on the ground then you have both a rear axle problem and a viscous diff problem.
  5. Dave W

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    The fog light switch is in the centre dash console thing... along with the hazard light switch, heated rear screen etc...
  6. Dave W

    How to earth MS like a pro?

    One thing to bear in mind is that you do not want the MS wiring to act as the earth for the engine. That's why you normally try to use a point on the engine for all earths. If you consider the, not uncommon, situation where the earth strap between the engine and body fails, you don't want the MS or it's wiring to try and take it's place. All the earths in the MS are joined together so if, for example, you have one earth connected to the battery and one earth connected to the engine then the MS can try and provide a path for the starter motor if the earth strap fails or goes high resistance. Picking up earths on the body side of the strap and then having another earth (TPS, coolant temp etc...) going to the engine means you risk bridging the earth strap. Anyone who's ever had their handbrake cable try to do that job will probably know why that's a bad idea.
  7. Dave W

    MS sensors set up clarrification

    Regarding the CLT, it may have already been done but RV8 standard sensors use a different range to the GM ones that MegaSquirt firmware supports "out of the box". You need to make sure your firmware has been updated with the correct values and THE best way to do that is to test the sensor manually - a pot of water on the stove, sensor suspended so that it's immersed in the water and use a thermometer to create a series of reference points of resistance vs temperature. I found when I was still messing with RV8 engines that there were quite large differences in temperature/resistance between the different RV8 sensors. 3.5 sensors were different from 3.9 sensors, for example. I always ended up using EasyTherm because at least then I knew that it was right and matched my sensor. It's also worth swapping the sensor anyway as, even with the stock ECU, the CLT sensor was always prone to going out of spec and causing weird running and starting problems. On the hotwire system it was almost the first thing you did when you came across an odd issue ! One thing that does occur to me though, it would definitely be worth double checking the earth connection on your CLT sensor, make sure it's got a decent connection to the ECU earth otherwise you'll always read low - the sensor is only running at 5 volts so it doesn't take much to skew the readings. If your IAT (MAT) is using the same earth you can also end up with a bridge effect where both sensors feed each other, similar to the effect of a bad earth on a trailer where the indicators cause the tail lights to dim. When you unplugged your IAT, did you see any difference in CLT ? NB lambda sensors are fine for tuning and running, they are not completely linear and you can get decent readings either side of centre albeit quite a small (narrow) range before it falls off the edge. I know WB are the "holy grail" for some but I've never had a good experience with them and never trusted one, not helped by the fact that the early adaptors from innovate were bloody awful and, by all accounts, haven't improved much since ! For longevity and long term accuracy you really can't beat a NB lambda, the one in my competition motor is now 12 years old, it's been drowned in water and mud, it's seen pretty much every extreme of temperature from Scotland in winter to the Australian Outback and never missed a beat. Earlier this month it was in for it's MOT and, while testing the emissions, the tester said it was absolutely spot on and you could see the ECU switching either side of the centre point as I have EGO correction turned on at idle. NB always tunes by voltage, not AFR and you pretty much just set a switchover voltage. I don't think the AFR table in TS is used at all for true Narrow Band but can be used if you're running a WB in NB 0-1v mode. Tuning in NB gives you a base map and, ideally, you want to end up with a simple NB tuned VE table across the board. You can then start to manually lean it out in cruise positions and increase the fuelling in higher power areas although your throttle enrichment often does most of that.
  8. Dave W

    Defender Vs Series Track Rod ends

    Not sure about the thread, think they are the same BUT, from memory, I think the taper is different so you need to make sure the TRE matches the component it's being mated to or it will only contact on a small part of the taper.
  9. Dave W

    Megasquirt security

    If you wanted a simple method to disable the engine, you could always use the dual map option with one map set with 0 fuelling. That way an external switching earth can be used to enable/disable the engine.
  10. Dave W

    Vehicle category codes (M1G, N1 etc)

    N1 is cheaper tax, speed limits are the same as M1 is you fall into one of the special categories such as dual purpose (4x4 for example) or motor caravan, otherwise some limits are lower, as above. My camper van is N1 and I pay the lower commercial rate of tax (£220 ish per year from memory) whereas my Range Rover of the same year is M1 and costs £550 per year for similar CO levels.
  11. Dave W

    Disco 2 4.0 into Defender 110?

    LPG makes life more complicated on a Thor but that aside for now, the 4.0 Thor is essentially the last step in the RV8 ladder, a 3.9 with all the toys. It had all the features and refinements that evolved through years of experience with the engine with a cross bolted block, better oil pump, serpentine front end. The engine also delivers noticeably better low end torque, allegedly due to the inlet manifold. It had a bit of a bad rep at one point but, in all honesty, if it's still running OK after nearly 20 years it's pretty much NOT going to be one of the bad ones unless it's been sat in a barn from new. From a MegaSquirt PoV it's really easy because everything is there already that you would otherwise have to add on: Standard crank sensor is a VR sensor that can hook straight into MS (just make sure you use a shielded cable) Coil packs are arranged in a wasted spark configuration, mounted at the rear of the engine and can be driven direct or, if you really feel the need to, via EDIS Idle control uses a simple PWM controlled valve (with the addition of a resistor) If you want to use it, the AFM is also compatible with MegaSquirt ECUs that support it. Essentially you can fit an MS1-Extra, MS2-Extra or MS3-Extra straight onto it without any additional hardware being required. Where life gets complicated is that, unlike the earlier inlet manifolds, the Thor isn't really suited to a gas ring style LPG system so you would need to use a more advanced system with LPG injectors alongside the petrol ones, often tapped into the manifold.
  12. Dave W

    Disco 2 4.0 into Defender 110?

    IMHO the 4.0 V8 Thor engine is the best RV8 out there, as long as it's in good condition it'll make a good option for a 110. To run it you will need an ECU, either the one on the Disco or it's very well suited to a MegaSquirt setup as it has a crank sensor, coil packs and idle control valve that can be used directly with a Megasquirt ECU without needing additional trigger wheels etc... I've been considering getting one for the garage myself for a future conversion.
  13. Dave W

    MoT from 20 May 18

    A few people struggling with VW T5s but not seen much with Defenders. In the T5 cases it's mainly due to them being tested at the "wrong" levels and "fixed" by either blasting them down the road before the test or defacing/covering/removing the sticker (if the value on the sticker cannot be read the test is carried out against the default values, which are MUCH less strict). Strangely, despite all the predictions to the contrary, DPF and EGR removal doesn't seem to have caused many issues at all.
  14. Dave W

    New product from xcess4x4

    I have, bent the rear axle on my motor, probably on the Outback Challenge. Took ages to figure out that it was bent though, the rear diff lock would leak air under load (fine on the drive) and I spent a LOT of time trying to fix it. New air seals, rebuilt the diff, replaced shafts, all the pipework etc... In the end, out of desperation, swapped the axle casing for a spare and, lo and behold, never had an issue again. The axle wasn't bent much, just a few mm but the slight misalignment where the half shaft went into the diff must have been twisting it enough to unseal the O ring and let the air out. Think it was due to a heavy landing at speed but I don't actually know for certain when I bent it, could have been on a trial ! The problem first appeared about 6 months after getting the motor back from Australia.
  15. Dave W

    O/T - Pooter help required!

    It will only play on your account if it's protected, if it weren't protected then you could use iTunes to convert it for you as it will do for CDs etc... If it's protected you won't be able to send it to anyone. Do you have a Mac or PC ? As Arjan has suggested the best and easiest way to convert them is to use some software that records the sound while you play it. I've used SoundTap in the past for this on Mac, I think it's also available for PC. You can get a free unlimited 14 day trial version...
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