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Dave W

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Dave W last won the day on November 30 2018

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About Dave W

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    North Yorkshire

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  1. I've shipped vehicles to Australia 3 times now. Twice I shipped my competition vehicle out for the OBC and more recently shipped our 90 out for a 6 month drive around Australia. For the OBC we shipped 3 vehicles in a 40ft container, for our drive around we shipped the single vehicle in a 20ft container. It takes a while to ship, if you can you'll want to allow 3 months. I believe the requirements are similar to NZ in that you need to get the vehicle through customs and quarantine. Customs is easy really, just need to have the numbers that match the documentation and away you go as it
  2. One more thing, I just remembered ! The military version doesn't have a normal light switch. I think the two reds are the side lights and the blue is the headlights. I vaguely remember running 3 wires across to the civilian switch to accommodate the normal switch on mine, one from the brown for power, one for the two reds and one for the blue.
  3. Looks like the one on the left and yes, the solid brown wire. The brown/white is a bit vague from the diagram of the switch, however, I suspect that needs to be connected to the brown too as, from the wiring diagram, it looks to supply power through a fuse to various other circuits. This is the diagram for the switch, connector 1 plugs into the connector on the left which is connector 32 on the main wiring diagram. You'll also see item 31 on the main wiring diagram which I think may well be a master switch that connects the brown and brown/white wires together. I have my loom out
  4. It's the 8 way plug that used to connect to the convoy lights btw. The brown wire needs to be connected to the two red wires, the pink wire and the red/brown wire to simulate the switch in the normal position.
  5. If it's the military harness (which it does look like) then you will need to join some of the wires together to get lights, indicators, brake lights etc... working. I have a wiring diagram somewhere, I'll PM you a link. I have a 1990 110 V8 ex-military which will use the same harness.
  6. It makes no difference which side you switch, negative or live. The FIA switch has 3 independent switches, the main one for the power and two additional ones that are used to stop the engine and put a load on the alternator. That's the difference between an "FIA Switch" and a "battery cutoff switch". I personally prefer to switch the live but it's not an issue switching the earth as long as you remember to make sure that the alternator load resistor is connected to the unswitched earth (the same earth the alternator is connected to). There is a regulation (not sure if it's MSA or FIA) for all
  7. As there's not much price difference (excluding batteries) perhaps I should look at building a Milwaukee collection then... they should give the batteries away, like a drug dealer getting you hooked
  8. If you're looking for something a bit cheaper, I bought a Bosch 18v impact wrench a month or so ago after a LOT of pontificating. In the end I went with the Bosch one because I already have other Bosch 18v items so I figured at the cost it was worth a punt. So far it's been very impressive and battery life, even with the 2.0AH packs I have, has been very good and I've yet to find a nut/bolt it won't shift. I did go for the 300 Newton Meter version (GDS 18 V-300) though which, for me, was the best compromise between size, power and cost at £130. I have a basic "windy gun" and the Bosch out p
  9. Just Enough Essential Parts was the version I was always told. Regarding the IPO thing I think Land Rover pretty much shot themselves in the foot on that when they released the new vehicle with a Defender badge on it. The fact that the company is willing to completely throw away the "iconic shape" and replace it with another Freelander/Discovery shows that the only value of that shape for them is in dodgy marketing, pretending that the new vehicle has any connection with it's past.
  10. I had one fail due to it getting crimped, never found out how it got crimped though so I could only think that it got caught up on something, there was a definite crease in the stainless steel outer. The inner tube is relatively fragile so any fault or gap in the outer layer can be an issue so check for any signs of damage or fraying. It's always worth checking you've not been using your brake lines as axle check straps too... you wouldn't be the first ! Put full left lock on, cross axle the vehicle with the left front wheel high and see if it's your brake pipes taking the weight of the
  11. Grease lubed wheel bearings with a damaged seal (or just badly fitted) tend to fail rapidly and catastrophically, usually when you're traveling at high speeds on a major road. They also aren't as well sealed as the oil lubed setup so are prone to issues with water ingress after driving through relatively shallow water. Oil lubed bearings give you plenty of notice of a problem, tend not to weld everything together and have a visual indicator of any minor problems with the seals It would be worth considering converting (very sure there is a topic about it around here somewhere !) at s
  12. That is a fair distance away ! You could mount a bracket using the throttle body bolts if you wanted to go down that route, replace the bolts with longer versions so the two nearest the throttle are long enough to be exposed at the back (look to be threaded all the way through), then use nuts on the exposed thread to attach a simple bracket. Ordering 2 custom cables is probably quicker and easier though
  13. Why not change/modify the bracket on the engine for one that isn't so far away ? I can't visualise the Thor arrangement as I no longer have one but I wouldn't have thought it would be difficult to extend it so it's closer to the throttle ? I'd rather use a custom bracket and a standard cable than the other way around... break a standard cable and you can get one anywhere in the world with a phone call.
  14. As above really, always best and safest to use a mechanical means, something down the number 1 spark plug hole to find the top of the piston as it approached TDC. I've had RV8s that are as much as 20 degrees out on their pulley markings so I never trust them. On my LS1/6 there are no timing marks or pointer so I made up a pointer and marked the pulley using the method described above.
  15. I wouldn't bother with that style. If you stumble across one of the later ones which had 2 coil packs with 4 outputs each, as used on the Thor engines and later GEMS engines, they work really well with MS direct drive or EDIS. ISTR I made my own bracket for mine that used whatever available holes/bolts I could.
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