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Dave W

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Dave W last won the day on November 30 2018

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About Dave W

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    North Yorkshire

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  1. Dave W

    Defender wheel tracking

    Do you have a lift kit fitted/taller than standard suspension ? Toe in at the front can cause the line to move away from the front of the rear tyre, turn the steering until you get the same gap at the front of both rear tyres, if you can. If you have toe out on the front then, with the steering straight, you'll see a gap appear at the rear of the front tyres.
  2. Dave W

    What to best cut side panels with?

    Jigsaw. Use masking tape to cover the line of the cut and then you can mark the line you need to follow clearly. It will also help prevent the paint lifting at the cut. Make sure the masking tape also covers the area the the jigsaw will be resting on as it will scratch the paint otherwise, especially on the corners as you turn the jigsaw to follow the curve, the back end of the jigsaw comes out a long way from the cut. Remember the strengthening pillars behind the panel though, you either need to cut them out first from the inside or you'll risk snagging or bending the jigsaw blade. For that I'd use an angle grinder - carefully.
  3. Dave W

    Our discovery has a bladder issue

    Water/coolant will only flow out of the overflow when the pressure exceeds the rating of the cap. So, there are two possible causes, the coolant is under too much pressure or the cap is faulty and letting coolant out at too low a pressure. If you have too much pressure then it's either a cooling issue and the coolant is getting too hot or something else is increasing the pressure - cylinder head leak, for example or air in the system. I'd start by checking the cap is in good condition and work from there.
  4. Dave W

    Td5 LT 230 cable operated

    I converted mine, the gearbox pushed it further back than normal so the mechanical link would have been difficult to relocate, especially the diff lock. The diff lock is simple enough as it uses the same connection as the mechanical link and I don't remember having any issues with it. The hi/lo is a completely different lever at the transfer box end though and posed more of an issue. i can't remember the exact details as it's about 12 years since I did mine but ISTR that the lever is incompatible and the cable won't connect to it properly without some fettling. I was lucky as, having failed to remove the old lever to make a new one, I lucked across a broken cable selected transfer box and swapped the whole hi-lo lever assembly over.
  5. If you have a set of accurate scales, you could weigh 1 litre of each...
  6. Dave W

    Snow/Ice vs Tyres/Chains

    There is no simple "quick fix", more likely a combination of things. Tyres certainly make a huge difference and winter tyres will grip better at lower temperatures, tyre pressures can also make a huge difference. The compound on winter tyres gives far more grip in colder temperatures and, on ice especially, lowering the pressures will give a bigger contact area. Driver style and experience can make just as big a difference, as in any low traction situation. Chains would help but then there's the problem of having to remove them and put them back on again as road conditions change can be a real pain.
  7. Dave W

    Paddocks Jump Start packs

    Strangely, shortly after this thread appeared, having bought one of the packs I linked to earlier, I needed to use it for the first time this week on my Range Rover (V8 diesel). On Monday morning the car was completely dead, wouldn't unlock with the remote and after unlocking with the key no lights at all on the dash. So, popped the bonnet and hooked the starter pack up to the battery, had to use the "manual" switch to engage the pack as it couldn't detect the battery. It almost started the car but unfortunately the lights were on auto so as soon as the ignition was powered up the headlights came on, did their merry dance and all the pack could manage was a couple of slow turns of the engine before calling it a day. I put it on charge but got an error on the charger. AA man put his big starter pack on it and it turned over but wouldn't start, alternator had shorted out and was draining his starter pack at around 25 Amps with the ignition turned off ! So, new alternator fitted and battery partially charged on Wednesday then driven around in the dark on a few short journeys. With a train to catch on Friday morning I went out and the car would open but wouldn't start. As soon as the key was in the crank position all the lights on the dash went out. Mad panic with only 15 minutes to get to the station and a 10 minute drive... connected the starter pack up again and, thankfully, this time it started the engine without too much fuss. A short trip to the station and back then left in the drive. Saturday morning I went out to it again and battery worse than Friday, no lights on the dash at all and wouldn't let me turn the ignition on although the central locking worked, slowly. Battery pack connected again but not enough power to start it. I hadn't got around to recharging it after Friday so that may be a bit of an unfair test. So, these packs can start a vehicle, even a big diesel with loads of electronics, providing that the battery has enough life for the lights on the dash to work ! I think that alternator short that tied the battery to earth for a day or so (it measured 2 volts when I disconnected the earth lead on Monday) has probably killed the 6 month old AGM battery but, ever the optimist, it's been hooked up to my CTek battery conditioner for 24 hours so far... the starter pack may end up paying for itself at this rate !
  8. It would be worth contacting any decent local independents, many of them have an arrangement with the local franchise dealer and can often offer things like that at a reduced cost without the same markup. I got a new key for my Range Rover this way and it was about half the price the main dealer quoted.
  9. Main dealers can supply them, had to get one for ours and we just had to take the V5 and proof of ID form what I remember. It came stamped with the VIN number. You should also have one on the top of the bulkhead, at the bottom of the windscreen.
  10. Dave W

    Paddocks Jump Start packs

    There's a lot of power in LiPo/LiOn batteries for such a small size and these jump packs do work although the lead acid versions are cheaper and work just as well... just take up more space. There are better and cheaper versions available than the one listed though, this one for example... https://amzn.to/2CxMxZM I've not used a modern one but the older lead acid versions I've used have always worked well, as long as you remember to keep them charged up !
  11. As i understand it, you left the handbrake on while driving ? That being the case, it's a diff or half shaft gone in your rear axle. If the rear axle was in one piece then you would not be able to drive with the "hand brake" on as it would effectively lock the rear axle unless you also removed the rear prop shaft. It's unlikely to be the viscous, if it was you'd have lost all drive, front and back, not just rear. If the centre diff (viscous) wasn't working at all you wouldn't have drive to the front but it sounds as if it's functioning as you'd expect with the transmission brake on - all drive going to the front. BUT it would only need to have the brake on if the centre diff was no longer locked and was slipping. The viscous diff on these is, effectively, locked all the time with the diff "slipping" when the front/rear torque is different. It sounds to me as if you've had an issue in the rear axle, the viscous diff has compensated for it and now the viscous diff has given up and is slipping. If you can easily turn the rear propshaft (with the handbrake off) and all wheels on the ground then you have both a rear axle problem and a viscous diff problem.
  12. Dave W

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    The fog light switch is in the centre dash console thing... along with the hazard light switch, heated rear screen etc...
  13. Dave W

    How to earth MS like a pro?

    One thing to bear in mind is that you do not want the MS wiring to act as the earth for the engine. That's why you normally try to use a point on the engine for all earths. If you consider the, not uncommon, situation where the earth strap between the engine and body fails, you don't want the MS or it's wiring to try and take it's place. All the earths in the MS are joined together so if, for example, you have one earth connected to the battery and one earth connected to the engine then the MS can try and provide a path for the starter motor if the earth strap fails or goes high resistance. Picking up earths on the body side of the strap and then having another earth (TPS, coolant temp etc...) going to the engine means you risk bridging the earth strap. Anyone who's ever had their handbrake cable try to do that job will probably know why that's a bad idea.
  14. Dave W

    MS sensors set up clarrification

    Regarding the CLT, it may have already been done but RV8 standard sensors use a different range to the GM ones that MegaSquirt firmware supports "out of the box". You need to make sure your firmware has been updated with the correct values and THE best way to do that is to test the sensor manually - a pot of water on the stove, sensor suspended so that it's immersed in the water and use a thermometer to create a series of reference points of resistance vs temperature. I found when I was still messing with RV8 engines that there were quite large differences in temperature/resistance between the different RV8 sensors. 3.5 sensors were different from 3.9 sensors, for example. I always ended up using EasyTherm because at least then I knew that it was right and matched my sensor. It's also worth swapping the sensor anyway as, even with the stock ECU, the CLT sensor was always prone to going out of spec and causing weird running and starting problems. On the hotwire system it was almost the first thing you did when you came across an odd issue ! One thing that does occur to me though, it would definitely be worth double checking the earth connection on your CLT sensor, make sure it's got a decent connection to the ECU earth otherwise you'll always read low - the sensor is only running at 5 volts so it doesn't take much to skew the readings. If your IAT (MAT) is using the same earth you can also end up with a bridge effect where both sensors feed each other, similar to the effect of a bad earth on a trailer where the indicators cause the tail lights to dim. When you unplugged your IAT, did you see any difference in CLT ? NB lambda sensors are fine for tuning and running, they are not completely linear and you can get decent readings either side of centre albeit quite a small (narrow) range before it falls off the edge. I know WB are the "holy grail" for some but I've never had a good experience with them and never trusted one, not helped by the fact that the early adaptors from innovate were bloody awful and, by all accounts, haven't improved much since ! For longevity and long term accuracy you really can't beat a NB lambda, the one in my competition motor is now 12 years old, it's been drowned in water and mud, it's seen pretty much every extreme of temperature from Scotland in winter to the Australian Outback and never missed a beat. Earlier this month it was in for it's MOT and, while testing the emissions, the tester said it was absolutely spot on and you could see the ECU switching either side of the centre point as I have EGO correction turned on at idle. NB always tunes by voltage, not AFR and you pretty much just set a switchover voltage. I don't think the AFR table in TS is used at all for true Narrow Band but can be used if you're running a WB in NB 0-1v mode. Tuning in NB gives you a base map and, ideally, you want to end up with a simple NB tuned VE table across the board. You can then start to manually lean it out in cruise positions and increase the fuelling in higher power areas although your throttle enrichment often does most of that.
  15. Dave W

    Defender Vs Series Track Rod ends

    Not sure about the thread, think they are the same BUT, from memory, I think the taper is different so you need to make sure the TRE matches the component it's being mated to or it will only contact on a small part of the taper.

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