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Dave W

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Everything posted by Dave W

  1. It's a coil driver, allows you to fire an ignition coil from a 5v logic signal. It's been developed by Bosch and has all sorts of safeguards to try and prevent it getting damaged due to misuse/bad configuration with over temperature protection, current limiting and so on. You take the input 5v high for the dwell period and the coil fires when you drop the input to 0v. https://secu-3.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/pdf/bip373_datasheet.pdf If I had to hazard a guess I'd suspect that most of the current combined coil and driver offerings use this device, it's a lot more robust than the older VB921 we used to use as a coil driver. You connect the base (B) pin through a resistor to the MS ECU spark output, emitter (E) to vehicle earth and the collector (C) to the coil -ve. The other side of the coil is connected to ignition 12v. One thing you do have to watch though is that the collector is connected to the metal tab/heatsink so when you bolt it to a metal surface you need to make sure it's insulated, normally using a mica insulation kit. There are a number of places selling them in the UK and US or you can get a pack of 5 from aliexpress for under £10 if you're prepared to wait: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BIP373-TO220-Series-250-V-16A-Bipolar-Triple-Stage-Automotive-Ignition-Driver-30115/1132722921.html
  2. MS3 is the same as MS1 in that it has a series of spark outputs that all OUTPUT 5v. EDIS is an automated coil driver controller, it has 4 built in coil drivers and a circuit that reads the crank signal to power the coil drivers at the correct time. You can use coils with built in drivers such as the VW ones or LSx ones or you can use external drivers with your existing coils to convert the 5v signal from the MS ECU into a spark, typically you use a BIP373 for each coil and use your existing coils. Your choice really, depends on your budget and requirements - you can get 4 x BIP373 for less than £20, mount them in there own box near the coils and it's no different to EDIS or new coils. I use an Aluminium box to house mine, the box acts as a heatsink and also screens any electrical interference. The wiring details are available in the MS documentation. The VW option is very good, just not the cheapest and means new ht leads etc... I use this setup with standard RV8 coil packs so I can use "off the shelf" HT leads.
  3. I have a Sankey camping trailer too. A Howling Moon trailer tent mounted on a custom framework, trailer with onboard water, fridge, lighting etc...
  4. EDIS will also happily run RV8 coils such as those from the later GEMS and Thor engines, P38 Range Rovers or Discovery 2 V8s if you come across any. Also worth looking on Aussie LR sites/forums for people breaking them.
  5. Check the fuel return pipe, the flexible parts have a habit of delaminating and blocking the return, results in excessive fuel pressure at the manifold (fuel rail) . Easy way to check is to disconnect the return pipe at the regulator and put a piece of pipe from that into a jerry can or similar, if it fixes the problem, you have a blockage in the return line.
  6. It depends how adventurous you are and how willing to dabble. MegaSquirt is a good option but has moved away from the original DIY EFi concept and is now dominated by commercial rather than the original open source ethic. As a result, prices have rocketed as a small number of commercial suppliers have dominated the market. Sadly it seems the only people not making a living out of it are the people that designed the hardware and wrote the firmware. If you're looking for an "off the shelf" solution then you can get close with MegaSquirt but be aware that prices are more comparable now with other bespoke solutions. That said Nige offers a good, basic product but you won't get much in the way of support for it in the main MegaSquirt community as MS1-Extra is not considered viable by many now. If you like a bit more of a challenge, Speeduino is pretty mature now and has the advantage, over MegaSquirt of being an open source solution with cheap, easily available hardware, hardware costs around £120 for the ECU and it uses TunerStudio to tune/adjust, just like MegaSquirt. The UK supplier for Speeduino used to be one of the main MegaSquirt suppliers but appears to have switched. Speeduino uses a VR sensor board which vastly improves VR sensor reliability and precision over the older MegaSquirt design. Later MegaSquirt hardware also uses this external VR conditioner. Even assembled ECUs are significantly cheaper than MegaSquirt with an assembled and tested ECU coming in at less that £180 from the UK supplier. There is work in progress to embed an auto transmission controller into Speeduino too which looks an interesting option.
  7. Do you have a lift kit fitted/taller than standard suspension ? Toe in at the front can cause the line to move away from the front of the rear tyre, turn the steering until you get the same gap at the front of both rear tyres, if you can. If you have toe out on the front then, with the steering straight, you'll see a gap appear at the rear of the front tyres.
  8. Jigsaw. Use masking tape to cover the line of the cut and then you can mark the line you need to follow clearly. It will also help prevent the paint lifting at the cut. Make sure the masking tape also covers the area the the jigsaw will be resting on as it will scratch the paint otherwise, especially on the corners as you turn the jigsaw to follow the curve, the back end of the jigsaw comes out a long way from the cut. Remember the strengthening pillars behind the panel though, you either need to cut them out first from the inside or you'll risk snagging or bending the jigsaw blade. For that I'd use an angle grinder - carefully.
  9. Water/coolant will only flow out of the overflow when the pressure exceeds the rating of the cap. So, there are two possible causes, the coolant is under too much pressure or the cap is faulty and letting coolant out at too low a pressure. If you have too much pressure then it's either a cooling issue and the coolant is getting too hot or something else is increasing the pressure - cylinder head leak, for example or air in the system. I'd start by checking the cap is in good condition and work from there.
  10. I converted mine, the gearbox pushed it further back than normal so the mechanical link would have been difficult to relocate, especially the diff lock. The diff lock is simple enough as it uses the same connection as the mechanical link and I don't remember having any issues with it. The hi/lo is a completely different lever at the transfer box end though and posed more of an issue. i can't remember the exact details as it's about 12 years since I did mine but ISTR that the lever is incompatible and the cable won't connect to it properly without some fettling. I was lucky as, having failed to remove the old lever to make a new one, I lucked across a broken cable selected transfer box and swapped the whole hi-lo lever assembly over.
  11. If you have a set of accurate scales, you could weigh 1 litre of each...
  12. There is no simple "quick fix", more likely a combination of things. Tyres certainly make a huge difference and winter tyres will grip better at lower temperatures, tyre pressures can also make a huge difference. The compound on winter tyres gives far more grip in colder temperatures and, on ice especially, lowering the pressures will give a bigger contact area. Driver style and experience can make just as big a difference, as in any low traction situation. Chains would help but then there's the problem of having to remove them and put them back on again as road conditions change can be a real pain.
  13. Strangely, shortly after this thread appeared, having bought one of the packs I linked to earlier, I needed to use it for the first time this week on my Range Rover (V8 diesel). On Monday morning the car was completely dead, wouldn't unlock with the remote and after unlocking with the key no lights at all on the dash. So, popped the bonnet and hooked the starter pack up to the battery, had to use the "manual" switch to engage the pack as it couldn't detect the battery. It almost started the car but unfortunately the lights were on auto so as soon as the ignition was powered up the headlights came on, did their merry dance and all the pack could manage was a couple of slow turns of the engine before calling it a day. I put it on charge but got an error on the charger. AA man put his big starter pack on it and it turned over but wouldn't start, alternator had shorted out and was draining his starter pack at around 25 Amps with the ignition turned off ! So, new alternator fitted and battery partially charged on Wednesday then driven around in the dark on a few short journeys. With a train to catch on Friday morning I went out and the car would open but wouldn't start. As soon as the key was in the crank position all the lights on the dash went out. Mad panic with only 15 minutes to get to the station and a 10 minute drive... connected the starter pack up again and, thankfully, this time it started the engine without too much fuss. A short trip to the station and back then left in the drive. Saturday morning I went out to it again and battery worse than Friday, no lights on the dash at all and wouldn't let me turn the ignition on although the central locking worked, slowly. Battery pack connected again but not enough power to start it. I hadn't got around to recharging it after Friday so that may be a bit of an unfair test. So, these packs can start a vehicle, even a big diesel with loads of electronics, providing that the battery has enough life for the lights on the dash to work ! I think that alternator short that tied the battery to earth for a day or so (it measured 2 volts when I disconnected the earth lead on Monday) has probably killed the 6 month old AGM battery but, ever the optimist, it's been hooked up to my CTek battery conditioner for 24 hours so far... the starter pack may end up paying for itself at this rate !
  14. It would be worth contacting any decent local independents, many of them have an arrangement with the local franchise dealer and can often offer things like that at a reduced cost without the same markup. I got a new key for my Range Rover this way and it was about half the price the main dealer quoted.
  15. Main dealers can supply them, had to get one for ours and we just had to take the V5 and proof of ID form what I remember. It came stamped with the VIN number. You should also have one on the top of the bulkhead, at the bottom of the windscreen.
  16. There's a lot of power in LiPo/LiOn batteries for such a small size and these jump packs do work although the lead acid versions are cheaper and work just as well... just take up more space. There are better and cheaper versions available than the one listed though, this one for example... https://amzn.to/2CxMxZM I've not used a modern one but the older lead acid versions I've used have always worked well, as long as you remember to keep them charged up !
  17. As i understand it, you left the handbrake on while driving ? That being the case, it's a diff or half shaft gone in your rear axle. If the rear axle was in one piece then you would not be able to drive with the "hand brake" on as it would effectively lock the rear axle unless you also removed the rear prop shaft. It's unlikely to be the viscous, if it was you'd have lost all drive, front and back, not just rear. If the centre diff (viscous) wasn't working at all you wouldn't have drive to the front but it sounds as if it's functioning as you'd expect with the transmission brake on - all drive going to the front. BUT it would only need to have the brake on if the centre diff was no longer locked and was slipping. The viscous diff on these is, effectively, locked all the time with the diff "slipping" when the front/rear torque is different. It sounds to me as if you've had an issue in the rear axle, the viscous diff has compensated for it and now the viscous diff has given up and is slipping. If you can easily turn the rear propshaft (with the handbrake off) and all wheels on the ground then you have both a rear axle problem and a viscous diff problem.
  18. The fog light switch is in the centre dash console thing... along with the hazard light switch, heated rear screen etc...
  19. One thing to bear in mind is that you do not want the MS wiring to act as the earth for the engine. That's why you normally try to use a point on the engine for all earths. If you consider the, not uncommon, situation where the earth strap between the engine and body fails, you don't want the MS or it's wiring to try and take it's place. All the earths in the MS are joined together so if, for example, you have one earth connected to the battery and one earth connected to the engine then the MS can try and provide a path for the starter motor if the earth strap fails or goes high resistance. Picking up earths on the body side of the strap and then having another earth (TPS, coolant temp etc...) going to the engine means you risk bridging the earth strap. Anyone who's ever had their handbrake cable try to do that job will probably know why that's a bad idea.
  20. Regarding the CLT, it may have already been done but RV8 standard sensors use a different range to the GM ones that MegaSquirt firmware supports "out of the box". You need to make sure your firmware has been updated with the correct values and THE best way to do that is to test the sensor manually - a pot of water on the stove, sensor suspended so that it's immersed in the water and use a thermometer to create a series of reference points of resistance vs temperature. I found when I was still messing with RV8 engines that there were quite large differences in temperature/resistance between the different RV8 sensors. 3.5 sensors were different from 3.9 sensors, for example. I always ended up using EasyTherm because at least then I knew that it was right and matched my sensor. It's also worth swapping the sensor anyway as, even with the stock ECU, the CLT sensor was always prone to going out of spec and causing weird running and starting problems. On the hotwire system it was almost the first thing you did when you came across an odd issue ! One thing that does occur to me though, it would definitely be worth double checking the earth connection on your CLT sensor, make sure it's got a decent connection to the ECU earth otherwise you'll always read low - the sensor is only running at 5 volts so it doesn't take much to skew the readings. If your IAT (MAT) is using the same earth you can also end up with a bridge effect where both sensors feed each other, similar to the effect of a bad earth on a trailer where the indicators cause the tail lights to dim. When you unplugged your IAT, did you see any difference in CLT ? NB lambda sensors are fine for tuning and running, they are not completely linear and you can get decent readings either side of centre albeit quite a small (narrow) range before it falls off the edge. I know WB are the "holy grail" for some but I've never had a good experience with them and never trusted one, not helped by the fact that the early adaptors from innovate were bloody awful and, by all accounts, haven't improved much since ! For longevity and long term accuracy you really can't beat a NB lambda, the one in my competition motor is now 12 years old, it's been drowned in water and mud, it's seen pretty much every extreme of temperature from Scotland in winter to the Australian Outback and never missed a beat. Earlier this month it was in for it's MOT and, while testing the emissions, the tester said it was absolutely spot on and you could see the ECU switching either side of the centre point as I have EGO correction turned on at idle. NB always tunes by voltage, not AFR and you pretty much just set a switchover voltage. I don't think the AFR table in TS is used at all for true Narrow Band but can be used if you're running a WB in NB 0-1v mode. Tuning in NB gives you a base map and, ideally, you want to end up with a simple NB tuned VE table across the board. You can then start to manually lean it out in cruise positions and increase the fuelling in higher power areas although your throttle enrichment often does most of that.
  21. Not sure about the thread, think they are the same BUT, from memory, I think the taper is different so you need to make sure the TRE matches the component it's being mated to or it will only contact on a small part of the taper.
  22. If you wanted a simple method to disable the engine, you could always use the dual map option with one map set with 0 fuelling. That way an external switching earth can be used to enable/disable the engine.
  23. N1 is cheaper tax, speed limits are the same as M1 is you fall into one of the special categories such as dual purpose (4x4 for example) or motor caravan, otherwise some limits are lower, as above. My camper van is N1 and I pay the lower commercial rate of tax (£220 ish per year from memory) whereas my Range Rover of the same year is M1 and costs £550 per year for similar CO levels.
  24. LPG makes life more complicated on a Thor but that aside for now, the 4.0 Thor is essentially the last step in the RV8 ladder, a 3.9 with all the toys. It had all the features and refinements that evolved through years of experience with the engine with a cross bolted block, better oil pump, serpentine front end. The engine also delivers noticeably better low end torque, allegedly due to the inlet manifold. It had a bit of a bad rep at one point but, in all honesty, if it's still running OK after nearly 20 years it's pretty much NOT going to be one of the bad ones unless it's been sat in a barn from new. From a MegaSquirt PoV it's really easy because everything is there already that you would otherwise have to add on: Standard crank sensor is a VR sensor that can hook straight into MS (just make sure you use a shielded cable) Coil packs are arranged in a wasted spark configuration, mounted at the rear of the engine and can be driven direct or, if you really feel the need to, via EDIS Idle control uses a simple PWM controlled valve (with the addition of a resistor) If you want to use it, the AFM is also compatible with MegaSquirt ECUs that support it. Essentially you can fit an MS1-Extra, MS2-Extra or MS3-Extra straight onto it without any additional hardware being required. Where life gets complicated is that, unlike the earlier inlet manifolds, the Thor isn't really suited to a gas ring style LPG system so you would need to use a more advanced system with LPG injectors alongside the petrol ones, often tapped into the manifold.
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