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Dave W

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Everything posted by Dave W

  1. Due to circumstances outside our control, this event has now been postponed by 2 weeks and will now run on the 29th October and not the 15th. Apologies for the last minute change, any booked competitors who can't make the new date will be refunded in full. If an admin can alter the date on the original post, that'd be handy
  2. Twice a year we run a challenge event that aims to bring challenge back towards where it started - road legal vehicles, possibly equipped with a winch and a crew doing their best to navigate, cope with whatever terrain they come across and complete special tasks along the way. The event will consist of over 20 orienteering punches that will be graded into three categories according to their difficulty. Similarly, entries will be divided into three classes based on the vehicle's capabilities and competitors will only be allowed to attempt punches at or below their vehicle class. The status of this event means that all drivers will need to hold an MSA license (None Race Clubmans) . For those who do not already have a license, please bring a completed form to signing on. We will have some forms available although it's easier and saves time if you can bring them with you. Navigators need only a club membership card unless the crew intend to swap drivers. The three vehicle classes will be as follows: Class 1 is for vehicles not fitted with a winch, essentially our normal trials vehicles class. Class 2 are vehicles fitted with a single winch. Class 3 are vehicles with more than one winch and will also require basic rollover protection. More details and online booking are available on our web site... http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 We can also be contacted via Facebook... https://www.facebook.com/groups/225303763669/ Or post here
  3. If you're looking for a nice looking switch to control all this, I can recommend the CBE step switch, designed to be used to raise and lower the access steps on a motorhome it takes a single 12v input and switches the output to the motor internally so you just need two wires in (12v) and two wires out to the motor and the switch does the rest. the wiring diagram that comes with it also has an allowance for end stop switches although I've never bothered using those in my case. The CBE stuff gives a nice finish to the interior with lots of different options regarding modules you can use with them and surround colours.
  4. I think it would be, yes, you don't need much of an angle, just enough to ensure that the actuator and lever aren't directly in line. Even a small initial deflection will be enough to ensure the actuator is able to move the lever. On my bed it's only offset by around 1/2 an inch.
  5. One other thought regarding the linear actuator, you could, potentially use a ram as well to assist in the first part of the lift if you can't get the angle. The actuators have Essentially that's all a linear actuator is, uses a worm gear to turn the motors rotation into a linear movement. Hence the cheaper ones are quite slow but have a lot of torque (1500 Newtons with mine, which will lift 150Kg ish). At 5mm per second over a 400mm movement you just need to be patient !
  6. The scissors arrangement should work as you have it, on the proviso that the scissors never fully close. If the part anchored at B is allowed to be inline with the actuator when closed, it won't be able to open it. You could also look at make A-B as a single strut, mount B in a roller guide setup and attach the actuator to B. That would reverse the operation so the actuator would pull to open and push to close. Again though, ideally you want a slight angle when closed so it never fully aligns with the actuator. If you want to see a manufacturer's version of the design, see if you can find a VW California T5 or T6, they have an electrically operated pop top that is controlled by a linear actuator. From experience, when you buy linear actuators, remember to check their operating speed. I bought one to replace the ram on our rock'n'roll bed as it was exactly the same lengths so was a straight swap... only after fitting did I realise that it would take 50 seconds to go from one extreme to the other. It does the job but, in hind sight I'd have paid slightly more for one that was double the speed !
  7. MOT advisory, WATCH OUT !

    Same here, although I use wire with a length of shock cord to provide some tension in the wire.
  8. I bought one of the Sealey vacuum things for my VW van for testing/exercising the turbo vanes. I've since used it for bleeding the brakes on my MKIII Sankey and will definitely be trying it out as an alternative to my Eezibleed next time one of the Land Rovers need their brakes bleeding.
  9. No, it still uses hardwired switch inputs, the wifi/bluetooth just gives you different options too.
  10. There are two aspects to the immobiliser. The immobiliser itself will prevent the starter motor relay from energising if it is armed so, assuming you are using the full harness/relays than if the starter is turning then the immobiliser is not armed. The immobiliser sends a unique code to the engine ECU periodically and that code has to match the one stored in the ECU before the ECU will run the engine. If the AS10 and ECU came from the same vehicle than they should already be coded together, if not you will need to update the code in the ECU using Nanocom or similar. If you are seeing puffs of grey smoke from the exhaust then it is probably trying to run but a TD5 needs a lot of cranking to purge the air from it, assuming it's had no fuel in it at some point. There is a purge sequence for the primary parts of the fuel system (the fuel rail, filter and pipes) but the injectors themselves can only be purged by trying to start the engine. The fuel rail is purged by following the priming routine of pumping the throttle pedal 5 times after ignition on. It actually runs the fuel pump cycle as many times as you pump the throttle but 5 is normally enough for the fuel rail. Once the fuel rail is primed you just need to keep it cranking over with the throttle pedal to the floor. As each injector primes you'll find more puffs of grey smoke appearing until, eventually, it will start to fire on one or more cylinders. The injectors have their own fuel compartment inside them and it's only when the engine is being cranked and the injector is firing that the air can be removed from that compartment. Hence if a TD5 runs out of fuel it can take a while to start again.
  11. It's a solution for someone wiring a vehicle from scratch or someone who wants to rewire and get rid of the majority of the relays/fuses to tidy things up a bit. Essentially it's a small computer that has a series of inputs, from switches for example, and a series of outputs that can be turned on/off according to the inputs. So, instead of having a switch on the dashboard that controls a relay or switches a light directly, the switch on the dashboard sends a signal to this unit and it switches on/off the programmed outputs accordingly. Some of them have current sensors on each circuit and will automatically turn it off if too much current is drawn (like a fuse). Some have an app that allows you to remotely turn on/off the power to different circuits.
  12. With a bit of work you could build an Arduino one yourself for not a lot of money. I built a controller for my camper van with a tft touch screen display and I think total cost worked out around £80 in modules, connectors and wiring. Using MOSFETs to control the lights so they were dimmable and relays to control switched functions such as battery charge control and towing electrics. The only complexity with using MOSFETs on a car is that they work better on their own when switching the earth side rather than the supply. You can get around that though with a simple driver and a more expensive MOSFET but for my uses I'm happy to switch the earth on those circuits. My controller switches 6 lighting circuits via MOSFETs and 4 relays, has WiFi connectivity for use with a phone app, touchscreen TFT display mounted in the van as an alternative to the phone app, has GPS and an SMS text interface so I can send texts to, for example, turn the heater on when I'm walking back from the pub. It also doubles as an additional security device, allowing it to send me a text if the van moves while I'm out. Like all these things though you pay more for an off the shelf unit where it just works and you accept the limitations that the designer has built in or you build something yourself and go through the pain of development but at the end of it have something that meets your specific requirements. The main reason I built my own was that the off the shelf ones were very expensive and didn't do everything I wanted it to do.
  13. Calling all 109 owners!

    All the 109s I've seen have the turning circle of an oil tanker when compared to a 110. Whilst being narrower can be a benefit the huge turning circle and the lack of power steering make them really numb things to drive on road or off. It's not something I really noticed too much on my 88 but on the 109 it's a major issue for day to day use. Series vehicles certainly have a character of their own but having driven both extensively I know which one I would go for and it has power steering and coil sprung suspension !
  14. Rebuild Insurance

    I looked into this a few years back and couldn't get any joy, I gave up in the end and did what I could to ensure it's security during the build until it was back on the road. As you have found, unless it resembles a vehicle, car insurance companies don't seem to be interested. One of the main stumbling blocks seems to be the value, a pile of bits is difficult to put a value on when compared to a complete vehicle and if that pile of bits gets stolen, who will know what was there ? Maybe some of the classic car specialists could help, I only tried a few of the LR specialists when I was enquiring about it.
  15. Britpart Doors?

    Bearing in mind that this is now 13 years ago so my memory may be a bit vague ! I remember having to make the hole for the passenger door but not the driver's so that would make sense - fitting them to an ex-military Defender meant I have lock barrels on both doors and I ordered the Series door bottoms as, at around £60 each, it was a no brainer over repairing what I had. I also think I had to enlarge the holes in the top for the door top bolts to go into. Next set I'll see if I can get a LHD and RHD spec drivers door
  16. Rear near side and towing electrics

    It depends, normally the towing loom is connected into the off side rear corner and there is provision there to pick up the left nearside tail light feed. The chassis loom takes that route, after exiting the chassis just underneath the off side rear corner it comes up into a multitude of bullet connectors under the cover behind the rear lights before heading across the rear cross member to the near side lights. If you've lost your near side rear lights and your towing electrics it's probably the earth connector in the off side rear, it's a multiway female block that all the bullet connectors push into. It's a horrible system, I removed all the bullet connectors from mine, hardwired the connections together (soldered and sleeved) and converted to the later lights with 2 and 3 way econoseal connectors. At least now I only lose 1 light when there's a fault and it tends to be a hard fault rather than an intermittent one.
  17. Have messaged you with a link
  18. The MOD loom, on mine at least, is completely different to the civilian loom of the same period, not just a different layout but different colours too. Converting it fully to civilian lighting switches isn't a 2 minute job. On mine I added the stalks and extended all the cables from the stalks to the centre of the dash being the convoy switch and hooked it in one circuit at a time. Everything you need is there, just takes a bit of finding. I have the military wiring diagram for mine (a 1990 110) somewhere if you need one.
  19. Recommended Tuners for 4.4 TDV8?

    I don't think many people would argue that the TDV8 was too slow... probably why the aftermarket tuners aren't going to throw huge amounts of time at a product that very few would want. I've considered getting a remap for my TD5 Defender and my VW T5, both of which have a lot of options available when it comes to after market tuning. I've not once contemplated the same for my Range Rover !
  20. Advice on Roll Cage.

    Not sure what options you have but you could look for a club that doesn't have it's own odd roll cage regulations. As above, does the cage meet MSA requirements ? I had a cage in my Range Rover that was FIA and MSA registered and could be used in Rally Raid, stage rallies, hill rallies etc... without a problem but I couldn't compete at a local comp. safari or ccvt with my ALRC club. I just went to another club instead, was a lot cheaper and the competition was/is a lot better. Might be different here though as there is a lot of choice when it comes to clubs in Yorkshire. It'd be worth talking to the club even if they are an ALRC club, if your cage meets MSA spec, because many ALRC clubs run outside their regulations anyway so there may be more leeway than you think. Our local ALRC club often allows vehicles to compete that don't comply with ALRC regulations just to fill out the numbers.
  21. Britpart Doors?

    Britpart can be variable in quality depending on the supplier but I bought a new set of lower doors for mine (actually a military Defender but the door bottoms are the same) in 2004. They came as "blanks" so I had to cut a hole for the door lock barrel (The actual lock/handle mechanism was catered for just not the door locks) to go through but other than that they fitted OK, I figured that they were cheap enough so it didn't really matter how long they survived. After 10 years they started to bubble at the bottom although the frames seem OK, I should have coated the inside with some wax before fitting but was in a hurry at the time and there's far more damage from rocks and trees than corrosion !
  22. Welding Mask/Helmet

    I have an auto darkening helmet, not sure of the make off the top of my head, it was on special offer at the BOC gas place when I was in and it was a LOT better than my previous one. That said though it seems to be all or nothing no matter where I set the level, it's nice and clear when "off" but as soon as I start welding I can barely see anything outside the arc which makes welding a bit of a guessing game sometimes ! The number if times I've done a really nice looking weld... about 5 mm away from the join ! All the helmets seem to have a similar adjustment range but is there a helmet that will let me see what I'm welding without melting my eyes too ?
  23. Anyone going to Kelmarsh ( Billing ) show

    Not sure how much has changed but I was involved with the original Kelmarsh event planning and, at the time, it promised to be a much better event than Billing. Unfortunately, at the time, it never happened but I thought the venue was MUCH better than Billing and so was the off road course. Security would have been a huge improvement because there are no public rights of way into the venue and, more importantly, no "residents" in static caravans that have very close ties with the thieves that infested the Billing event. We were looking forward to a venue where the show organisers could actually turn people away who shouldn't be there. I hope that Kelmarsh finally gets the chance to live up to the expectations and we can finally put Billing to rest once and for all, something which should have happened years ago.
  24. LT230 ATB

    I've never been fully convinced by the BW thing. From driving them and repairing them it always seems to me that the perceived view (as described in the advertising literature) is that it locks up when needed but the reality is the opposite to that, it actually releases when it reaches a set torque front to rear and is, otherwise, permanently locked. When they go wrong they tend to stop releasing altogether, staying permanently locked even when the torque across them exceeds the set point where it should release to avoid wind up. I tried the transmission brake thing but never had much success with it, there were always a lot of different theories about the potential or otherwise of the BW box but in side by side comparisons there was never a clear cut outcome that suggested the BW gave any competitive advantage other than it's strength. I think you probably get a bigger advantage by using larger diameter tyres on the front axle which you don't want to do with a BW box really. What I'd really like is a mod to the LT230 that lets you precisely control the diff lock, maybe replacing the mechanism with a solenoid with a more positive engagement and disengagement. In my perfect world I would then have a control button that, in trials mode, would release the diff lock while pressed and reengage it as soon as I let go of the button so that during "safe" tight turns I can flick it out and no that it will disengage and then, more importantly, it will instantly reengage rather than engaging 5 seconds after I needed it ! I did toy with the idea of an Atlas 2 speed box as that gives the positive control, in low range at least, of sending drive to either axle or both axles as required so you can shift either axle into neutral while driving the other axle. If I were competing more seriously that would be my preferred route, maybe even an Atlas 4 if I was feeling really wealthy...
  25. LT230 ATB

    I trialled for a while with ATB (Quaife) diffs in my Range Rover and they gave no advantage whatsoever so I replaced them with air locking diffs instead so at least I knew what they would do and when. The only advantage, to me, is their strength and I think that's where the ATB Transfer boxes are being sold. You really need to know when it's locked and when it isn't and I suspect you'd get more joy by making sure your "manual" diff lock engages and releases smoothly so you can put the diff lock in/out mid section as required. I also tried a Borg Warner transfer box at one point but other than being stronger (in that you couldn't kill it by forgetting to put the diff lock in) it didn't give any advantage and not being able to flip the diff lock in and out when required was frustrating sometimes.