Dave W

I had one fail due to it getting crimped, never found out how it got crimped though so I could only think that it got caught up on something, there was a definite crease in the stainless steel outer. The inner tube is relatively fragile so any fault or gap in the outer layer can be an issue so check for any signs of damage or fraying. It's always worth checking you've not been using your brake lines as axle check straps too... you wouldn't be the first ! Put full left lock on, cross axle the vehicle with the left front wheel high and see if it's your brake pipes taking the weight of the wheel and part of the axle.

Grease lubed wheel bearings with a damaged seal (or just badly fitted) tend to fail rapidly and catastrophically, usually when you're traveling at high speeds on a major road. They also aren't as well sealed as the oil lubed setup so are prone to issues with water ingress after driving through relatively shallow water. Oil lubed bearings give you plenty of notice of a problem, tend not to weld everything together and have a visual indicator of any minor problems with the seals It would be worth considering converting (very sure there is a topic about it around here somewhere !) at some point.

That is a fair distance away ! You could mount a bracket using the throttle body bolts if you wanted to go down that route, replace the bolts with longer versions so the two nearest the throttle are long enough to be exposed at the back (look to be threaded all the way through), then use nuts on the exposed thread to attach a simple bracket. Ordering 2 custom cables is probably quicker and easier though

Why not change/modify the bracket on the engine for one that isn't so far away ? I can't visualise the Thor arrangement as I no longer have one but I wouldn't have thought it would be difficult to extend it so it's closer to the throttle ? I'd rather use a custom bracket and a standard cable than the other way around... break a standard cable and you can get one anywhere in the world with a phone call.

As above really, always best and safest to use a mechanical means, something down the number 1 spark plug hole to find the top of the piston as it approached TDC. I've had RV8s that are as much as 20 degrees out on their pulley markings so I never trust them. On my LS1/6 there are no timing marks or pointer so I made up a pointer and marked the pulley using the method described above.

I wouldn't bother with that style. If you stumble across one of the later ones which had 2 coil packs with 4 outputs each, as used on the Thor engines and later GEMS engines, they work really well with MS direct drive or EDIS. ISTR I made my own bracket for mine that used whatever available holes/bolts I could.

I don't have a problem with the "lump" under the ladder, there's a matching one on the other side of the vehicle too. It gives it a "utilitarian" look where an otherwise flat backend would have looked a bit bland. I suspect the front end design, in part at least, is as a result of reminding you of a Defender whilst at the same time avoiding a JLR law suit. Be interesting to see what can be done in regards to replacement bumpers etc... When I saw the 2020 Defender for the first time, I wondered why they were using a LWB Vitara in a Land Rover ad... then realised it was actually a JLR vehicle when they showed what has now become the JLR cookie cutter front end design. The Grenadier looks more like a Defender than the JLR version and I suspect cost of ownership will be far lower and versatility will be much higher. Let's face it, reliability can't be much worse !

They can't replace her at the moment, they have run out of fish related surnames so will have to stick with her until they get a new SMP with a fishy surname. The only alternative would be to change the theme but that would be seen as a U turn by the unofficial opposition. I'd get some better trainers, as they say, you don't have to run fast when being pursued by a Tiger... just faster than at least one other person.

I just had a phone call from a group of "off roaders" wanting some advice... Apparently they picked up a route around Otley that takes 2-3 days and covers around 100 miles of tracks/lanes with some B roads. They'd not researched any of the routes themselves but it was someone's birthday and him and a bunch of his mates wanted to spend a few days driving and camping in the area having driven up from Wisbech. When they got there they couldn't find any of the routes so phoned up the local off road club for help. I pointed out that they are breaking the law in terms of the lockdown and intending to break the law further by driving routes that aren't legal rights of way. He said they must be legal because someone had published the route on the internet so they didn't need to research them. He was surprised when I told him that if you drove all the legal unsurfaced rights of way around Otley you'd be done in around 45 minutes and asked me to supply a route for him... which I declined to do. On the lockdown, his response was, oh well I'm only 40 so it doesn't apply to me... so him and his group of mates are camping together, driving any route that takes their fancy regardless of legal status and no doubt leaving piles of rubbish and carp across the countryside while they are doing it. The ONLY saving grace IMV is that none of them are driving Land Rovers.

Have you checked all 4 cylinders on one bank to see if any of them are getting a spark ? Where are you btw, I take it you're not anywhere near me !

What spark indicator and have you double checked using the old school method with a spark plug resting on the engine block ? You seem to have an issue with your IAT/MAT which is probably what's causing it to try and fire at TDC... which might be an issue with EDIS ? Did you try EDIS without the ECU at any point ?

mainHeight = 45; mainWidth = 35; mainLength = 51; stepHeight = 18; stepLength = 27; boltDia = 12.5; boltYOffset = mainLength - stepLength - boltDia / 2; difference() { union() { // Bottom block translate([-mainWidth / 2, 0, 0]) cube([mainWidth, mainLength, mainHeight]); // Top block translate([-mainWidth / 2, mainLength - stepLength, mainHeight]) cube([mainWidth, stepLength, stepHeight]); } translate([0,boltYOffset,-1]) cylinder(d = boltDia, h = mainHeight + 2, $fn = 100); } The above is an OpenSCAD design from your drawing, I assumed from the pic that the bolt would be positioned right at the edge of the step. The strength of OpenSCAD is you can adjust the parameters at the top of the file as you want. To move the bolt along the Y axis just change the boltYOffset value. Note that you should normally make allowance for bolts, printed at 12mm dia you'd probably find you'd need to drill it out or file it so it's normal to add a bit of extra wiggle room, hence I made it 12.5mm instead of 12mm !

You need to decide on material and time. It's a very simple design and not particularly large but on order to 3D print it you'd really need to know what environment it would be used in and what loads would be on it. 3D printed items aren't normally solid and tend to be stronger in one axis than another so the context needs to be looked at, if it's simply a supporting block where the load is in compression then a heavy load would need a finer infill than a light load. FDM printing, the normal hobby printers for larger items, uses an almost continuous filament to print each layer and then relies on the heat for the filaments to melt together when one layer is placed on another and that does effect the strength when it comes to shear forces. The temperature, UV exposure and any required flexibility would determine the material to be used. PLA would be no good if it is exposed to warm or hot temperatures as it will soften and is prone to UV breakdown. PETG has better heat tolerance and UV resistance but can be more flexible than you'd want for some applications. Nylon is a PITA to print with but does give very strong results. ABS is good but difficult to print and smells when printing so can meet resistance from other members of the household On the face of it though it's a simple design and wouldn't take much to print it.

That suggests the VR sensor is OK then so that can pretty much be ticked off, it means the EDIS is getting a signal it recognises and can interpret correctly. Narrows it down to a wiring issue on the EDIS/coils or a faulty EDIS unit. Have you checked the high capacity earth on the EDIS has a decent connection to the engine ? It uses that connection to switch the coils to.

Do you have an RPM reading from the MS ECU when cranking ?

Personally I would make use of the one, in my view, redeeming feature of EDIS - it doesn't need an ECU to run the ignition. Get rid of the MS ECU, remove it from the equation altogether, forget about it until you have the ignition working. Connect the EDIS to 12v, -ve, the coil packs and the VR sensor. See if you have a spark when the engine is cranking. If not then disconnect all but one of the coils and try that. If you have a scrap place handy locally and can get access I'd even consider having a look for an old Fiesta and grabbing an Edis-4 unit off that for testing purposes to eliminate a fault with the EDIS-8. With no ECU connected an EDIS-8 should happily run the ignition for you without any input from an external ECU. If you have a means of displaying/reading it it would also be useful to measure the output on the PIP wire as that will tell you if the VR sensor is doing it's job properly. You might get a feel for it with a DMM as you should see it pulsing as it's a 12v signal and any pulse would suggest that the VR sensor is doing something. No pulse at all and your VR sensor isn't wired properly or is faulty or is wired back to front.

Not certain but I remember using an injector flow and pattern tester may years ago and it recirculated the fluid. Viscor seems to be the most common recommendation, this stuff will probably be OK for use with petrol injectors as it will provide the right lubrication. Not cheap but should last forever. https://www.oil-store.co.uk/product/fuchs-viscor-calibration-fluid-1487-aw-2 I guess with no pressure it SHOULD be OK to fill the injector and cap it as it will lubricate it correctly, maybe a small reservoir above the injectors so any loss is replaced.

I had a factory recon 3.9 that had no serial number stamped on it. I needed one for customs so made up my own code/number, stamped it on, got the engine number changed on the log book to match the number I'd created.

I'm pretty sure I just bought the adaptor online for the P38, the DAB radio used standard ISO connectors so no problem to fit once you have a suitable adaptor. You'll need to know the age and also the type of audio currently fitted, the Harmon Kardon setup, for example, might need an additional amplifier. I think I got mine from these people: https://incartec.co.uk/products/Landrover There are 3 or 4 different variations in there, even more if you want to support steering wheel controls. Probably best speaking to them to make sure you get the right bits. The DAB module is the KT-DB1000, it's not available any more (as far as I know) but still available second hand occasionally.

As we're grasping at straws a little bit here, something else to throw in the mix that's an easy check... How confident are you that the injectors aren't opening ? Just wondering if you might have a fuel issue rather than electrical as such. Bear in mind that the last time i player with flapper systems was probably over 20 years ago and I hated the system so much I changed them all over to hotwire or MS at the earliest opportunity ! I have a feeling that on a working flapper system, with ignition turned on, you should hear the injectors click when you floor the throttle. If the fuel regulator is stuffed, not delivering enough pressure to the fuel rail, that would give the same symptoms as injectors not opening and one of the common failures of that regulator was for it to drop fuel pressure, essentially just returning the fuel directly to the tank. With that in mind, the fuel pump is running obviously but have you checked you have fuel at the rail ? I once spent 2 days chasing a similar fault only to find the walls of the fuel line had collapsed with age and were blocking the fuel so the pump was fine but almost no fuel at the regulator.

There's a relay mounted near the ignition coil that was a regular problem, can't remember if it cut the ignition or fuel... I vaguely recollect it was used to cut the fuel or ignition when the engine wasn't running or on overrun (no signal from the flapper ?).

You need to ramp the temperature up, I'm printing at 240C but it can also depend on the nozzle size you're using, how good the hot end is (how good the heat break is) and print speed. I do tend to wind back the retraction distance in the slicer more than I would for PLA, my current slicer also has a "cruise" setting which, rather than retracting at the end of the line it stops feeding material for the last couple of mm which reduces stringing so less retraction needed. I'm using a bowden setup so retraction is always a bit tricky to get just right.

I use PETG pretty much exclusively, generally only use PLA for prototypes. PETG is almost as easy to print as PLA, doesn't smell during printing, doesn't need an enclosure and has almost as good a temperature range as ABS. It's also more flexible than PLA and less brittle. Most of the stuff I print gets used in vehicles so the extra temperature range of PETG copes well with that. Through my volunteer work I designed and printed some devices for our local hospital and as part of that the infection control team had to approve the design and materials which included exposure to some pretty extreme cleaning products. The PETG version passed all the tests and was approved and is now in use on the wards. The only trick to changing from PLA to PETG, other than the higher print temperatures, is to increase the Z offset by 0.1 - 0.2mm to prevent dragging on the previous layer.

I keep looking at electric options and may end up with an electric mountain bike to commute to work. I'd love to see a practical conversion option that could provide a conversion option for existing vehicles but right now there's nothing out there so we'll have to wait for the tech/science to catch up. Range on current electric vehicles always seems to assume a downhill journey with no traffic, dry, warm, conditions and a tailwind. Something that used to be the case with petrol/diesel cars but was standardised eventually. In theory I can get 15MPG out of my Defender and did do it once on the A1 on a Sunday morning travelling at just below 60MPH. Realistically though I can't repeat that in normal conditions. A friend of mine bought a small electric car for his commute, it has a stated range of 80 miles and his commute is a round trip of around 40 miles so only half of the range of the vehicle. First day he ran out of power 8 miles from home and had to be recovered, contacted the dealer to be told that there was no problem with the car but there were too many hills on his route... so he ended up with a car that actually has a range of around 32 miles and that's when it's not raining. The solution was to install a charging point at work but that kind of makes a mockery of the suggestion that cars get charged at night... Regarding the grid infrastructure, much is made of the "they'll only charge at night" BUT if you also take into account the fact that the government is also looking to phase out gas heating in the same time period (new builds from 2025, all by 2050 is the aim), how will the grid cope with both higher electric heating demands and car charging demands and still get everyone's car charged overnight ? Better start bringing those nuclear generators on line !

Where is your ignition switched live coming from ? Be worth checking that is staying live during cranking, seen a few people converting from diesels and finding that the switched ignition live they picked up is fine when ignition is on but drops to 0 when cranking.