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edwardatherton

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Everything posted by edwardatherton

  1. Does anyone know who owns this? Looks like an enthusiast - chunky tyres, roof rack, snorkel etc
  2. My megajolt build on the 2.5 petrol (LPG) in my S1 88" cost me £125.00. The EDIS parts came from ebay, trigger wheel from triggerwheels.com, and a few brackets made by a local engineering place. It really is a great setup, and you can leave all the old stuff on while you build and test the MJ. I was using the S1 every day for a 50-mile commute while I fitted Megajolt.
  3. I have a Longlife exhaust on my S1 88" - expensive but custome made, and the flanges are stainless as well. Dad has a stainless exhaust (can't remember which, but one of the normal LR suppliers) and the flanges and hangers have had to be replaced by him a few times in the last few years. One of the pipes had to be replaced and he had to send it back at his cost as well. I'm glad I spent the extra.
  4. I bought one many years ago. The fit was awful and I would never buy one from them again. Havnig said that, the supplier is likely to be different now...?
  5. When I put the 2.5 into my S1 88", I just conected the fuel line to the carb from the SU fuel pump. No return, no swirl pot, nothing else!
  6. Series 2 will fit fine - my old 86" used to have one fitted. It is wider, so careful measuring needed to make sure there's not a gap between the rear tub mounts and tub! The shape along the bottom is different - squarer shape, and the drawbar mountings aren't there as on the S1 X-member. Tell him to get a proper type - this is an addictive hobby, and he will regret saving money in a few years time when he decides he wants everything 'correct'!
  7. Thankyou everyone, I will order some seals and bearings! Just need to get the heads and exhausts back on the Scimitar, sort out the handbrake and starter cable on the Fiat 500, then swap vehicles round to get the LR home to start on that!
  8. As I set off to go to the Cumbria Steam Gathering this weekend, there were some horrid screeching/scraping/grinding noises in 1st/2nd/3rd but not 4th. I have been told that it is most likely one of the layshaft bearings, so I have a few questions about the job! Can I remove the gearbox by itself without the overdrive or transfer box? The overdrive and gearbox oil seem to find their way into the transfer box, so what seals do I need to replace to stop this? Should I replace/check anything else while I am doing this job? Thankyou!
  9. No, originally there were no gaskets for the exhaust, and just some very thin tin gaskets for the inlet manifold. Apparently some of the late 2.25 engines were like this as well. However, when I had my exhaust manifold checked by the engineering shop near work it was not flat - about 1mm out. This was probably just due to natural expansion/contraction of the metal. I was told to use a 2.25 petrol gasket (combined inlet/exhaust) to allow some movement if needed in the future becuse this is probably why one branch had cracked. When I got the gasket it was really badly made and obstructed the exhaust ports by several mm on each one. I ended up chopping it into four sections and matching each one to the ports. Very unlike me to be so fussy, and probably a bit over the top, but I thought if it protruded into the port it woul be more likely to burn it and fail early. The welded repair on the original manifold was badly done and I couldn't use it - I ended up getting a new one made by **itpart. Quality is rubbishe - the casting was rubbish and I had to spend nearly two hours with a drill/grinder-thingy opening up the ports and smoothing off massive bits of the casting! It was £50 as opposed to £200 though!
  10. Pictures and progress updates definitely needed. If you end up needing any help/beer/beds/food/tools etc and are within reach of Salford, get in touch!
  11. I suppose so, but that's what breakdown cover is for! If I was going on an overland trip somewhere remote, I would return everything to standard spec because my multitool can fix most distributor problems. However, for economy, power, and loving the fact I could have a S1 with fuel injection, I will be looking at megasquirt before long! If anyone can help me with parts/machining I will get on with megasquirt this winter...
  12. Depends on costs, and the current state of the engines... If 2.25 is in good condition, then the only cost will be the head + gaskets for the LR, and beer for you while you swap it over. If the 2.5 is in good condition, the costs will be buying the engine, beer, sorting out a suitable exhaust and throttle cable, and you need an engine hoist if you don't already have one. So, I would say the 2.25 with new head would be easier. Then upgrade the ignition to Megajolt and throw the dizzy away!
  13. My S1 88" isn't too bad, but the Sankey gets 'stuck' in the ruts and seems to pull one way then the other. The 7.5T truck at work is terrible - it really tramlines badly!
  14. Thanks, I'll forget powerflow - it doesn't specify the grade of stainless on their website. I'll visit Long Life in Preston or Leeds and see what they can do. I did phone Steve Parkers last year and got the impression that they didn't want to do it. The price they quoted was over double the price of Long Life.
  15. I am going to get a stainless exhaust made for my S1 88" which has a 2.5 petrol fitted. At the moment it has a modified 2.25 system, but it is a bit small compared with the 90 exhaust, and it is mild steel. I don't want to have to chop a 2.25 exhaust every time I need to replace the downpipe either! The bore of the 90 pipe is just over 2" (I think). Is there any great advantage in going to a 2.5" pipe (biggest my local powerflow place can bend)? Has anyone any experience of powerflow, good or bad?
  16. The company I work for have loads of the white salt available, and we have been in all weekend trying to sort out supplies to the authorities as the stocks at Winsford are very low. As of lunchtime Friday we haven't been able to get answers or orders from authorities because everyone is at home. It took several days to get a minor tacho exemption from the govt because the person who had to approve it was abroad and they couldn't contact him... A planning restriction is currently stopping us moving salt out of storage in Staffordshire at the weekend and after 6PM weekdays. The Highways Agency have taken over movement of salt out of Winsford and only managed to move less than a quarter of the salt that the mine regularly shift each day. We are trying to sell salt, and obviously as a company we are not doing this at a loss, but the government/councils shutting on a Friday afternoon without leaving anyone to make a decision doesn't help! 11000T coming in on two boats won't go far when 75000T can potentially be used across the country each week. If anyone here works for a council and want supplying it can be arranged quickly. Email me with contact details!
  17. Yep, ignition parts should be kept, as should the battery (always handy to keep charged for jump starting purposes). Relays, fuses, wire etc are handy, speakers are useless (when, they are in my S1 or wife's Fiat 500!). Alternator, starter motor, tyres, wheels etc could be sold on if not needed for LR use.
  18. Extra Gas just along the road from Morrisons is cheaper.
  19. My 2.5 engine is out of a 1987 LWB, and the choke is manual.
  20. I had to tighten the U-bolts once, but no problems for a couple of years since that.
  21. Of course it will pull it. The question is whether you get to your destination before your holiday finishes!
  22. The trailer eye should spin right round. It can't be locked. The reason the NATO hitch can be locked is because some trailers have fixed eyes, so the hitch has to rotate. One should be fixed, and one should rotate.
  23. That's not unusual. You can't miss it if it is there, so assume it is missing. If it is really stuck, take it off and stick it in a bucket of diesel, gunk or similar for a while first.
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