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L19MUD

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L19MUD last won the day on September 27 2016

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About L19MUD

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    Ipswich, Suffolk

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  1. Best air ratchet

    If it is outright power you are after you will struggle to beat this for the money - 1600NM loosening torque. It is a little heavy at 4kg but I hardly ever pick up the air line one now. The only downside is the size but I think I will treat myself to a smaller mid range model to get into tighter areas where the power of this one is not needed https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita-dtw1002z-18v-lxt-brushless-1-2-impact-wrench-body-only Lorry wheel nuts that I used to undo with the 3/4 breaker bar and a scaffold pole are now a breeze! Upside or downside depending on your point of view is the batteries - they are expensive but they fit every other tool in the range
  2. Venturing off road again.......

    £3k buys you an early L322 V8 now!
  3. Two or Four post lift

    Looks identical to mine!
  4. True or false? Defender unveiling?

    Is it sad that I am genuinely excited about what is going to happen in 30 minutes time? Do I think the new Defender will replace my challenge truck or even my trusty workhorse 200tdi 90? No probably not. Would I be tempted by a double cab Defender if they got it right instead of my TDV8 Range Rover? Maybe 😁
  5. Hi mileage D4 or L322 opinions

    2 and a half years of depreciation saved!
  6. Hi mileage D4 or L322 opinions

    I also have a 3.6 TDV8 but the later 2010MY one. I agree with all of the above comments Reb - stop procrastinating and buy one! I seem to remember you being tempted by my old L322 that I sold 2 and a half years ago!
  7. Welder recommendation

    I have one identical to that....and it is great! OK it will never do thin welds but I have used it loads for all sorts of repairs to machinery and general fab work. Only issue I find with it is it its difficult to get it to start an arc without the welding rod sticking to steel you are welding when it is not warmed up. Once that is done it is fine. People may scoff but you would be surprised what a relatively inexperience person can achieve with a stick welder and some thick ish metal
  8. Series 2 lwb bodywork alignment issues

    Wings and bonnet put on quickly and it all looks good. I don't want to put more washers between the bulkhead and outrigger as my door gaps are as perfect as they are ever likely to be Am I worrying unnecessarily. James your post is reassuring. I just assumed I had done something wrong. I may measure up the old chassis tomorrow out of interest
  9. Series 2 lwb bodywork alignment issues

    I was also Smug when I checked all the seat box lined up to the floor and floor plates plus the sill supports, that was until I looked under the rear tub to see that I had a gap on the rhs of 5mm between the rubber mount and the floor crossmembers and an even bigger gap of 10mm on the lhs. Even more worrying than this when I looked at the support brackets to the foot wells from the chassis there was no way they would bolt up. The holes in the bulkhead are not even visible through the bracket. Now I could just elongate the holes much further but this does not seem right. I then tried doing things the other way round I bolted up the support brackets on the most favourable side of thier adjustment. The next pictures show the result of that. The bulkhead is miles too laid backwards for the doors to ever line up. I don't know how to proceed tbh. Should I get it back set up with proper door gaps, elongate the support bracket holes and try to fit the wings? Then just space out the floor?
  10. Series 2 lwb bodywork alignment issues

    Sorry this will be in a few posts as not got access to a pc as off work for the week trying to sort the Series out.. Stage 2 and get the bulkhead on. Required a bit of a twist to one foot but am happy that the height from the mounting point on the outrigger to a reference point on the top of the bulkhead is the same both sides. I have also checked this to my other series 2 and the measurement is exactly the same. On this basis I fitted the doors and lined them up to the bulkhead first. I managed approx a 6mm gap with the adjustment avaliable. I then pulled the bulkhead forward very slightly to get a square gap between the bulkhead and the rear tub and adjusted the height of the tub to suit the doors. This worked fine but the doors were too close to the bulkhead. I spaced the bulkhead out by 2mm with a thick washer on the main mounting bolt between the bulkhead and the outrigger. I must admit I was feeling fairly smug at this point....
  11. I am trying to fit the bodywork to my 109. Richards chassis and restored galvanised bulkhead. I just can't get it to all line up. I started at the back of the tub as there is no way of hiding this. I lined up the Alluminium crossmembers with the top of the tabs. When measured to the top of the tub to the crossmembers this gives me an exact same measurement each side, however the floor supports on the rhs are touching the rubber pads correctly but the is a gap of 6mm on the lhs between the rubber pad and the floor crossmembers the first one from the back. I can't alter this as the rhs won't go down any further and I need the crossmember to tub of tub to be parallel. I figured I would just pack this out with washers when fitting the crossmembers
  12. Please talk me out of buying this L322

    The coil conversion would be what puts me off that one. The air bags are pretty reliable on the L322's and a compressor is only £300 and 20 mins to fix - not sure why you would want to lose the ride comfort and ability to change ride height. I have an identical car to -jon- as I couldn't quite stretch to a 4.4 TDV8 but lanted the later LCD dash. had mine for 2 and a half years now and love it. It replaced an 02 4.4 V8 petrol which had started to suffer electrical problems. Main thing I prefer about the drive of my TDV8 is the gearbox - the 5 speed petrol never seemed to be in the right gear, whereas the higher torque of the diesel and the extra gear make it a more refined drive. having said that I would take a petrol Bmw V8 over the TD6 any day. Don't buy that one - but do go and buy one!
  13. as above - easiest way to see if it is a sticking fuel stop solenoid is to pull the cable off the top of the Solenoid when it is running on. If it stops immediately your problem is electrical (ignition switch or back feed from alternator) if it carries on then the fault lies with the stop solenoid itself. Worth taking out and cleaning first as Ross mentions there could be some carp in there
  14. Bulkhead repairer

    Just to follow up on this I went with Mosside Land Rovers and my bulkhead and front panel is now back He even arranged collection of it from me and sent it back. Total cost £940 to do both including collection and delivery
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