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L19MUD last won the day on November 26 2020

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  1. Without question the belt tensioner. Remove the belt and start up just for a few seconds and the noise will be gone
  2. I used this technique to do exactly the same and it worked well. I had never welded ali before. I changed to a teflon liner in the MIG and changed the gas and did it that way. Didnt produce anything pretty but was successful and you are only going to grind back off flat anyway
  3. These posts prompted me to give a bit of an update. The Ant is nice and simple to work on, makes a Series Land Rover look complex! I have now changed all the brake slave cylinders plus master, same for the clutch and also freed off/cleaned/greased the adjusters on the brakes. This picture of the clutch and brake masters show just how simple it is in the cab The chassis is in pretty good condition when you compare it to the same age Land Rover (1986) with only the center cross being corroded. This is as a result of a bad design where the bottom plate holds water. I have choppe
  4. Hi John, yes they came out and yes I removed the seat covers first. There is a really good video on how to do it on the web from Britpart! I am certainly no upholsterer and all of my seats look great. Also worth fitting the seat heater kit at the same time
  5. come on you should know this is the way to load aggregates without sides!!
  6. I still prefer the ARC if I am honest. The MIG comes out if it has to
  7. I love the Land Rover shows (I know a lot on here don't!) and went to Billing for the first time around 15 years ago I think and always loved it. I went to Kelmarsh once and was not that impressed. I never went to the off road mini show but we did camp there the last 2 or 3 times we went to Billing and really liked it. How did it compare to the original Billing? Was a shame how Live planned the show last year to clash on purpose
  8. This is exactly the advice I was going to give, he other insurer legally cannot write the vehicle off so they have to fix it to pre accident standard. It will not be recorded as an insurance write off if it is repaired instead of written off and a payment to you so that should not be a concern In my mind there are 4 possible scenarios here; 1 - Accept a payment for the car and it is written off - does not sound like an acceptable scenario and you need to make sure any payment would cover a vehicle of the same standard. You could do this by sending links to adverts of 110's of the sam
  9. Thermoset sounds like the one to go for then if you have a choice?
  10. Whilst I agree that is also true the two types were completely different in the way they reacted to removal! I gave up with the light guards in the end as the plastic just melted and moved about, the problem was solved when I accidentally left them on the bonfire.....
  11. My experience of powder coated items is pretty much this! I have purchased Land Rover light guards and bumpers that have been fine for a few years and then water gets in and rust gets behind the coating and it comes off in big nasty flakes. Interestingly the only positive experience I have had are on a pair of Scorpion Racing tree sliders purchased many many moons ago, they were galvanized and then powder coated from new and they held up amazingly well for 15 years. Even when someone drove a Mondeo into one scraping down to the galv the powder coating did not then start lifting either side of
  12. Interestingly mine is also a Bradbury but the beams are not intrusive like that. The ramps that the wheels run on are shaped so that the wheel free beams push partly underneath them so they do not get in the way. In my picture above the ramp has not been pushed up tight to the wheels free beam
  13. The wheels free works by leaving the normal ramps on the floor, you do that by driving the car on then sliding plates on the end of each ramp back onto the ramp so they do not overlap the main frame then when you lift it up the ramps stay on the ground and only the two cross beams move up
  14. You would have to take the jacks off yes. Probably not normal! Jacking beams are a lot easier to use than the wheels free as you have to get the fixed beam in exactly the right pace to use them. In reality i hardly use the wheels free now. It is useful to use when painting a chassis though as it makes the access better
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