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L19MUD last won the day on February 3

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About L19MUD

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  1. First time I have found anyone that agrees with me on this. Have a quality mig and a cheap arc and I will always try and ARC weld it if I can assuming it's thick enough
  2. I am right in the middle of all of this and I can say that mission creep is a killer! I chose not to do my bulkhead as other than a footwell it really is mint. My doors are crusty but because I didn't want the expense of a respray right now I decided not to do them. If you are having a bulkhead sprayed you may as well do the doors at the same time. It really depends on your goal I guess, back on the road as quickly as possible or spend a bit of time getting things back to new (or better) condition. I have got carried away with the interior on mine.... The advice of getting a runaround if you can is sound. No matter what you think you will always need more parts you have not factored in and will have to wait for. I seem to order bits every week! For me the issue with having the 90 off the road was the fact it's my tow vehicle and used for dirty jobs I didn't want to use the RR for. Cue the purchase of a very handy transit tipper! Personally I think if a jobs worth doing it's worth doing properly and not just rush it back together. Loads of jobs are so easy when it is apart
  3. I may be able to fit it in the battery box and that reduces the holes I need to drill. Tonight see me bodging my door back together. Not pretty but it is all covered and now the left hand bottom of the door is fixed to the right side!! New doors when I am feeling fluch and can afford a respray are going to be on the cards. This should last a while yet though
  4. I work in finance for a big insurance broker and working from home is common and not discouraged. I work with people from India, the US and other UK locations daily so my location is fairly irrelevant. I never chose to work more than 1 day a week at home though. It is only a 20 minute commute each way and I prefer actual human interaction. Weeks of sitting in my study on my own is going to drive me insane
  5. I agree with this and things that seemed important before have now dropped to the wayside. Instead of saving up to replace the Range Rover with a newer one or replace my wifes car, that money is going in the bank in case she gets made redundant (company could go bust - they have dropped from £6m turnover a month to zero overnight). With my Defender off the road the only vehicle we have used to go shopping/collect logs is the transit tipper. I don't think we will be rushing to spend thousands on newer cars for quite some time
  6. Not least from employers who could vastly reduce the costly office space they need!
  7. As above. There are much lighter higher revving engines that are easier to fit too... 200 or 300 tdi engine conversions are popular for a reason
  8. Depends what you want it for. I have one of these now and find it much more useful than a usual style led torch https://www.google.com/search?q=sealey+puck+light&client=ms-android-sonymobile&prmd=sivn&sxsrf=ALeKk01s86Ly8711BO0I-TEGyhBhtsJCxQ:1585597237922&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiY5P2A-sLoAhXUoVwKHaEAAnEQ_AUoAnoECAoQAg&biw=360&bih=512&dpr=3#imgrc=RG3OZoii0UzS5M
  9. Now starting to move on to running wiring. How have other people routed wires from the battery box? Previously I had wires running over the transmission tunnel under the matts there but really want to avoid that this time. I was thinking I will mount the fuseboard on the rear bulkhead with wires coming up behinds the seats and then into the existing holes in the battery box, then run the wires to/from the bulkhead switches back through the battery box, under the truck in some of that flexible plastic conduit and then bring them back into the truck in one of the unused grommets either side of the standard fuse box. I would then use the grommet on the other side to run the 6 cables needed from the head unit to the amp but take then up the other side and put the amp behind the pass seat. Speaker cables can then be easily run to the rear door and headlining from there In addition and whilst totally uncessary I had a measure up and I think I could just squeeze a 10 inch shallow sub in the middle then make an enclosure in the triangular void the other side of the bulkhead as an enclosure. It is about 18 litres in size so should work pretty well What have others done? Excuse my 5 year old paint skills
  10. I would heat them up as much as you can with a plumbers torch. If the heads do round off you can always use the Irwin bolt extractors over the top of the head good luck!
  11. Some radios have a little capacitor on the positive wiring for this exact thing, should be fairly easy to sort?
  12. I also want it to tidy up the seatbox which had very worn original trim on it before I removed and fitted the sound deadening. My mats are also very badly worn. The sound deadening is only 1-2mm thick so I don't have a space issue. I think even with this the standard spacers on the seats wont have to be added to. Added to that I am a righ short arse so it makes little difference!! Would you mind dropping me a PM with the price you paid?
  13. Arrghh! Reb I was hoping it would not look so good as it is such a large chunk of money (£470 now on the exmoor website) but it looks really clean and professional. I have spent so much money on mine that it is bordering on silly for what is still a rough old Land Rover but this does look to be a nice final touch to the front I don't think there are any other options out there? Thanks for the pictures though!
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