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L19MUD

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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L19MUD last won the day on April 30

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About L19MUD

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    Suffolk

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  1. I choose the US style ones as I already had 7 that syle and wanted them to match. The EU ones are better though... Pressing them on just feels right the other way
  2. I have a special switch made for the job! I could be lucky https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/carling-rear-wash-wipe-switch.html
  3. That is very annoying as the Mud website led me to believe it was a simple plug and play! Never mind just another barrier to overcome
  4. Yes it does! This would make sense, I just have it rotated 90 degrees. Diff lock light is on the to do list to check it is working
  5. OK white and orange can certainly be ignored as suspected. The second one is black and blue and has a hard plastic coating to make it rigid which I really don't remember when I unplugged it. It looks like it was connected from the inside of the wire I will have to go and look at the 200 tdi 110 to see if I can figure it out - that has been 300tdi converted though so the wiring has been messed with
  6. Thanks. I am really pleased with the trims, it was certainly worth taking the time to get the windows out and made the tinting process easier too. You are right about those top switches - the top row was present in my old setup, I got round it by gently bending the top two terminals down slightly so they did not hit. This was using female spade terminals and not the blocks as there is not space. To get round all the individual connections being a hassle to unplug if needed I am going to make up looms for the switch blanks that go to multiplugs to aid quick and easy removal. was planning to use different size plugs so that it can only be connected up in one way to avoid error. Well those are all new ideas for me as currently I just have wires unplugged from the previous standard rotary switch. I was just going to wire it up to work the same way as the standard switch did. To be honest the rear wash wipe has not worked for 10 years so it will just be a bonus to flick it on when required - in my Range Rover I never leave it on the intermittent setting I just flick it on and off once in a while so suspect I will do the same here
  7. Well actually 2 wires, neither of which I can find on the wiring diagrams - 1994 200tdi hard top. Does anyone know what these are and where they should connect? I think the first one is extra and not connected previously but the second one I think was First is white and orange up on the bulkhead by the fuel filter Second is a hard covered wire wich appears blue and black and comes up from the rear loom up next to the lift pump
  8. I have had a week off (should have been in Texas on a road trip!) and got some more jobs done I fitted the glass without breaking any of it and then tidied up the side trim window apertures and fitted some rubber finishing trim. I am very pleased with the results. There was a gap between the windown rubber and the rubber trim so I stuck single side sticky foam all around on the window rubber to take up the gap to make it look nicer and stop rattles. I think started the huge task of running wires, first through the dash to the centre console and then got the remainder of the dash back together (speedo housing just placed on here) I then moved onto wiring that would be coming from the behind seat bulkhead which was mainly the stereo equipment but also the front LED lightbar, rear power outlet and rear work light. It takes a huge amount of time to do a nice neat job of this...or maybe I am just really slow I then made up and fitted the auxilary fuseboard to go in the battery box. I mounted it on some dense plastic board which is insulating and strong, again this took ages but I am pleased with the results I have also decided upon the final configuration of the mud dash console which will look like this, slightly annoyed with that left hand window sticker which I realise now is wonky! That is it with the pictures but I also got most of the original loom reconnected and working plus tidied up all the rear light wiring and wired in the new 13 pin tow socket including switched power to it. Next job is to wire in the switches and start test/snagging circuits
  9. This is in a recovery lightbar and the stop/tail lenses are in the bar and behind the orange lense and 6ft 6 in the air so I very much doubt they would be spotted. There just does not seem to be enough benefit to changing them at the moment from the research I have done and anything decent for the H1 replacements (these are the main beacon bulbs) seems expensive and potentially rubbish too
  10. It has been mission creep on an epic scale 🤣 really not helped by the fact that with the temporary Transit and my RR I can get round not having the 90 for 75% of the time and pinch my old man's 110 hicap the remaining time. It will get finished before the pubs reopen (I think!)
  11. Thanks all, it seems like you either have to spend loads or risk buying rubbish. The standard bulbs are going back in!
  12. This may be a mad idea.....but would it be better to buy a LHD car and swap all parts over car to car and then sell it on as a RHD? Possibly only viable if you could do the work yourself as labour costs twice as high! You would at least know you have all the parts then!
  13. Thanks. I think they were £360 and at that price you can chose grey or black, for another 80 odd quid they will do them in any ral colour using raptor pai t and I think for 100 more they can do them in some sort of velvet type material again any colour. You can also get them with blanks for the rear quarters if you dont have windows and if you have a hard top with no windows and that strengthening bar there is an option that fits round that. The fit is not perfect and there is some faffing about to do but it really changes the truck inside.
  14. The issue is getting rid of the discoloured layer on the top first
  15. I started looking today for some H1 LED bulbs to replace H1 55w standard bulbs, some LED bulbs to replace standard 21w indicator bulbs, and LED bulbs to replace standard stop tail bulbs. These are to replace bulbs in a light bar so not standard fit by a manufacturer. The hope would be that they would be brighter, use less power if the light bar runs with the engine not running for a bit and the lifespan would be a lot longer. After an hour of trawling amazon and ebay I had pretty much convinced myself that I would be better off just sticking to what I have as the results and reviews vary so much. Has anyone got first hand experience of anything that is actually better than a normal bulb or am I wasting my time?
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