L19MUD

https://www.carscoops.com/2024/04/chelsea-truck-company-cheats-on-defenders-with-new-ineos-grenadier-project/ I actually really like the look of this with those wheels. I am sure the further exterior 'enhancements' planned will be awful though!

No the house is already there but the barns that originally went with it were all unfortunately sold off long ago for barn conversions. I have got planning going in this week to build a workshop, yard and driveway on the field to the left of the house. I have a Hitachi 17u-2 but it would take me forever to complete it with that. Hence the 'essential' purchase of a 3CX from the house fund

Not quite a tractor but I finally got my new to me Project 8 3CX home last weekend

I could be being very dense here...but they look to take off only a tiny amount of material as they are practically smooth? The issue is you need to take a reasonable amount off in places if the saw has hit a nail. They look more like the bitchers knife sharpeners which straighten out the end of the blade as opposed to taking much material out of the knife? I will take a picture of the blade and the teeth. They are probably 2.5cm high Once it is sharpened up it will buzz through 8 by 8 inch timber no problem

Never heard of this, I think it will be too hard for this option

Thanks just found it (and I realise I should have posted in there!)

I have a cordwood saw for the back of one of the tractors with a 30 inch diameter blade. When I have sharpened it previously with a file I managed to get it cutting really well. Once it dulled my old man decided to have a go with an angle grinder which was no where near as precise. I have taken him back out of the equation and want to sharpen it properly. What make/grade of file would people suggest? Its a tedious job (76 teeth) so I want something that cuts well and will last. Picture for attention!

Not Stephen this time and I know not everyone has Facebook but this blokes Facebook profile is well worth a look. Those 5 pictures are all the same car! Not quite a replica of the real thing but a thing of beauty never the less https://www.facebook.com/share/p/KixMeSD2SqPvvzsJ/

I have the gauge where I can see it but ignore it for 99% of the time. The only way I can get to unsafe levels is when towing uphill on a motorway and then obviously dependant on weight and size of the hill. Worth having for that as easy to just back off a fraction and see the drop instantly

Thought this may be of interest to those on this thread - had work done to sort rust and certainly not immaculate. Looks like a useable classic https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1991-range-rover-classic-3-9-csk-1

I managed to find some time to go to the workshop yesterday. I decided to try swapping out the Hazard switch and the flasher relay as quick simple things before I start testing through with the multimeter The answer was the flasher relay. Once changed everything was back to normal and working. I wish I started there!

Fuse 3 has 12v at all times with the ignition on. Am thinking the flasher relay or the hazard light switch should be my next action point?

The plot thickens. I pulled all the big maxi fuses in the engine bay and cleaned those. Disconnected the loom on the footwell of the bulkhead to the rear. Fuse in (turns out I had been checking fuse 16 not 15!) And fuse 15 for left hand sidelights blows so now I know it's front Removed wheel and left wheel arch to disconnect sidelights, indicator and headlight plus a relay from headlight main beam to some spotlights. Cleaned that lot up and put back together and the sidelights now work fine. At some point in the messing about I was getting an indicator light on one side with the hazard lights switch on. Now nothing I do results in any indicators or hazard lights. I have 12v power at fuse 1 with the hazard lights on and no power without

Well now it's none of them but was the one for the left hand sidelights

Am thinking the common point could actually be the main earth up on the bulkhead and things are finding different earth routes due to that bad earth

I think you could be right. Had a quick look whilst there tonight and could not get fuse to blow for sidelights. Interestingly though the left hand side front and back side lights won't come on but with the fuse out the dash lights go out Then put hazard lights on which immediately blew the fuse. A replacement fuse does not blow and the hazards and indicators don't work

I have an issue with a 1998 300 tdi 90 where the left hand sidelights fuse. if you turn the lighting switch to the first position the work fine, as soon as you move it to the second position (headlights on too) then the left hand side lights fuse. I can't see any connection other than the switch itself unless I am being dim (pardon the pun!)? Next step would be to strip that apart I guess

Serviced my Iveco Eurocargo including fuel filter, bled it up and all seemed good, took it up the road and would not rev. I naturally assumed I had air in the system and spent 'some time' bleeding it again and again. On one of the next runs around the yard I realised the speedo was not working but did not connect any dots At some point I gave up with the fuel filter and investigated the speedo fault which being a lorry was actually also the tachograph. That turned out to be a fuse. Penny still not dropped at this point.....took it for another run and everything back to normal. I then remembered that the lorry has a restrictor on it to stop it being revved when stationary (so you don't rev it hard to build up air) as the speedo/tach had fused it thought it was standing still School day every day.....

Yep and £2k inc VAT for the 175 version which seems like a very fair price

Find me a good one 🙂

A mate of mine has just bought a bigger flail run from a Case 5140 from this company https://www.mdlpowerup.com/product/efgc-flail-mowers/ I can't work out if I want a 175 wide without side shift or a 200 with side shift. I have a MF165 so a few more HP to run it than you will have I am nervous of buying a second hand flail - if they are abused they can go badly out of balance and be expensive to sort

The benefit of an underslung exhaust is not catching low trees when paddock topping round the edge, both of our 135's have bent exhausts! I keep looking at flails but unsure what to go for. Currently its more like a paddy field here rather than something you could drive a machine onto so is not that high a priority!

Nice. Underslung exhaust. Is it a narrow vineyard model?

This is what I do. When the missus is out though as it still makes a reasonable noise

The issue with painting them is getting a decent key on the surface. I have had success with taking them off, shot blasting them to dull them off and then clean them before using automotive spray paint.