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Posts posted by L19MUD
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5 hours ago, miketomcat said:
Quite the contry if it's hard a diamond stone will be better than a file. They are a replacement for old school oil/wet stones they come in different grades and are usually a lump of steel with diamonds on. eBay link picked at random so you know what I'm talking about.
Mike
I could be being very dense here...but they look to take off only a tiny amount of material as they are practically smooth? The issue is you need to take a reasonable amount off in places if the saw has hit a nail. They look more like the bitchers knife sharpeners which straighten out the end of the blade as opposed to taking much material out of the knife?
I will take a picture of the blade and the teeth. They are probably 2.5cm high
Once it is sharpened up it will buzz through 8 by 8 inch timber no problem
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5 hours ago, miketomcat said:
A diamond stone might be a better choice than a file, but it depends how soft the blade is.
Mike
Never heard of this, I think it will be too hard for this option
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13 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:
The subject of files came up in the tools section fairly recently, have a look in there
Thanks just found it (and I realise I should have posted in there!)
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I have a cordwood saw for the back of one of the tractors with a 30 inch diameter blade. When I have sharpened it previously with a file I managed to get it cutting really well. Once it dulled my old man decided to have a go with an angle grinder which was no where near as precise.
I have taken him back out of the equation and want to sharpen it properly. What make/grade of file would people suggest? Its a tedious job (76 teeth) so I want something that cuts well and will last. Picture for attention!
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Not Stephen this time and I know not everyone has Facebook but this blokes Facebook profile is well worth a look. Those 5 pictures are all the same car! Not quite a replica of the real thing but a thing of beauty never the less
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/KixMeSD2SqPvvzsJ/
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5 hours ago, Sigi_H said:
There can be good reasons to tune an engine to have excesive temps in extreme situations. Then of course it is good to see EGT always. But normally people like to have their tuning always in a save mode. In first mode it is best to have an EGT gauge with acoustic alarm. No need to watch it permanentely
I have the gauge where I can see it but ignore it for 99% of the time. The only way I can get to unsafe levels is when towing uphill on a motorway and then obviously dependant on weight and size of the hill. Worth having for that as easy to just back off a fraction and see the drop instantly
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Thought this may be of interest to those on this thread - had work done to sort rust and certainly not immaculate. Looks like a useable classic
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1991-range-rover-classic-3-9-csk-1
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I managed to find some time to go to the workshop yesterday. I decided to try swapping out the Hazard switch and the flasher relay as quick simple things before I start testing through with the multimeter
The answer was the flasher relay. Once changed everything was back to normal and working. I wish I started there!
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Fuse 3 has 12v at all times with the ignition on.
Am thinking the flasher relay or the hazard light switch should be my next action point?
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The plot thickens. I pulled all the big maxi fuses in the engine bay and cleaned those.
Disconnected the loom on the footwell of the bulkhead to the rear. Fuse in (turns out I had been checking fuse 16 not 15!) And fuse 15 for left hand sidelights blows so now I know it's front
Removed wheel and left wheel arch to disconnect sidelights, indicator and headlight plus a relay from headlight main beam to some spotlights.
Cleaned that lot up and put back together and the sidelights now work fine. At some point in the messing about I was getting an indicator light on one side with the hazard lights switch on.
Now nothing I do results in any indicators or hazard lights. I have 12v power at fuse 1 with the hazard lights on and no power without
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6 minutes ago, Peaklander said:
What’s the number of the fuse
Well now it's none of them but was the one for the left hand sidelights
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Am thinking the common point could actually be the main earth up on the bulkhead and things are finding different earth routes due to that bad earth
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I think you could be right. Had a quick look whilst there tonight and could not get fuse to blow for sidelights. Interestingly though the left hand side front and back side lights won't come on but with the fuse out the dash lights go out
Then put hazard lights on which immediately blew the fuse. A replacement fuse does not blow and the hazards and indicators don't work
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I have an issue with a 1998 300 tdi 90 where the left hand sidelights fuse. if you turn the lighting switch to the first position the work fine, as soon as you move it to the second position (headlights on too) then the left hand side lights fuse.
I can't see any connection other than the switch itself unless I am being dim (pardon the pun!)? Next step would be to strip that apart I guess
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Serviced my Iveco Eurocargo including fuel filter, bled it up and all seemed good, took it up the road and would not rev. I naturally assumed I had air in the system and spent 'some time' bleeding it again and again. On one of the next runs around the yard I realised the speedo was not working but did not connect any dots
At some point I gave up with the fuel filter and investigated the speedo fault which being a lorry was actually also the tachograph. That turned out to be a fuse. Penny still not dropped at this point.....took it for another run and everything back to normal. I then remembered that the lorry has a restrictor on it to stop it being revved when stationary (so you don't rev it hard to build up air) as the speedo/tach had fused it thought it was standing still
School day every day.....
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Just now, Anderzander said:
3 years warranty on the one you linked ..
Yep and £2k inc VAT for the 175 version which seems like a very fair price
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4 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
Some of the old ones are very simple though and parts can be cheap ..
Find me a good one 🙂
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A mate of mine has just bought a bigger flail run from a Case 5140 from this company https://www.mdlpowerup.com/product/efgc-flail-mowers/
I can't work out if I want a 175 wide without side shift or a 200 with side shift. I have a MF165 so a few more HP to run it than you will have
I am nervous of buying a second hand flail - if they are abused they can go badly out of balance and be expensive to sort
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2 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
Normal width one … not sure why it had the low exhaust - might help me fit it in the garage though
I got the OH’s blessing - though not immediately!
Where to put it is a question I need to answer - I can possibly make space in my garage for it. If not it might be under a cover outside.
I think I’ll start with a flail mower, I’d like a haybob, and a small square baler eventually. Not sure how I find an old baler that’s cheap but not worn out though - I’ve no idea how they work.
I did plan on buying a scruffier tractor that I could leave up at the field … this is a bit nice to just leave parked in the middle of nowhere.
Longer term I am going to look at getting planning for a small 2 bay barn, something a bit more secure, or if it will fit in the garage at home perhaps even a field shelter to keep the mower out the weather.
It’s very exciting !
I’ve paid a deposit and the chap gave me the V5 to take, he said he works on trust. 😊
The benefit of an underslung exhaust is not catching low trees when paddock topping round the edge, both of our 135's have bent exhausts!
I keep looking at flails but unsure what to go for. Currently its more like a paddy field here rather than something you could drive a machine onto so is not that high a priority!
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Nice. Underslung exhaust. Is it a narrow vineyard model?
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4 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
Don't use a detergent. The Dishwasher drying cycle will be too hot, unless you have a 25/30 degree setting. Put the hook in a couple of pars of socks, then put the whole thing in a pillow case and wash in a washing machine on a cold wash
This is what I do. When the missus is out though as it still makes a reasonable noise
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The issue with painting them is getting a decent key on the surface. I have had success with taking them off, shot blasting them to dull them off and then clean them before using automotive spray paint.
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13 hours ago, deep said:
That doesn't sound right! There should be springs top and bottom and it's the adjusters that stop the shoes going back too far.
You are right....this post is correct below
On 6/26/2018 at 7:07 PM, Paul Woodward said:
OT - "Vintage" Tractor Purchasing
in International Forum
Posted
No the house is already there but the barns that originally went with it were all unfortunately sold off long ago for barn conversions. I have got planning going in this week to build a workshop, yard and driveway on the field to the left of the house. I have a Hitachi 17u-2 but it would take me forever to complete it with that. Hence the 'essential' purchase of a 3CX from the house fund