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L19MUD

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Posts posted by L19MUD

  1. 4 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

    Is it a house you're building? 

    No the house is already there but the barns that originally went with it were all unfortunately sold off long ago for barn conversions. I have got planning going in this week to build a workshop, yard and driveway on the field to the left of the house. I have a Hitachi 17u-2 but it would take me forever to complete it with that. Hence the 'essential' purchase of a 3CX from the house fund

    • Like 2
  2. 5 hours ago, miketomcat said:

    Quite the contry if it's hard a diamond stone will be better than a file. They are a replacement for old school oil/wet stones they come in different grades and are usually a lump of steel with diamonds on. eBay link picked at random so you know what I'm talking about.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133282627721?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vIRMQk85RKm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rj9sNdGlTqa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

    Mike

    I could be being very dense here...but they look to take off only a tiny amount of material as they are practically smooth? The issue is you need to take a reasonable amount off in places if the saw has hit a nail. They look more like the bitchers knife sharpeners which straighten out the end of the blade as opposed to taking much material out of the knife?

    I will take a picture of the blade and the teeth. They are probably 2.5cm high

     

    Once it is sharpened up it will buzz through 8 by 8 inch timber no problem

  3. I have a cordwood saw for the back of one of the tractors with a 30 inch diameter blade. When I have sharpened it previously with a file I managed to get it cutting really well. Once it dulled my old man decided to have a go with an angle grinder which was no where near as precise.

    I have taken him back out of the equation and want to sharpen it properly. What make/grade of file would people suggest? Its a tedious job (76 teeth) so I want something that cuts well and will last. Picture for attention!

    Saw.thumb.jpg.ccfbda61149c529d7b29cf2f6d458e99.jpg

     

  4. 5 hours ago, Sigi_H said:

    There can be good reasons to tune an engine to have excesive temps in extreme situations. Then of course it is good to see EGT always. But normally people like to have their tuning always in a save mode. In first mode it is best to have an EGT gauge with acoustic alarm. No need to watch it permanentely

     

     

    I have the gauge where I can see it but ignore it for 99% of the time. The only way I can get to unsafe levels is when towing uphill on a motorway and then obviously dependant on weight and size of the hill. Worth having for that as easy to just back off a fraction and see the drop instantly

  5. I managed to find some time to go to the workshop yesterday. I decided to try swapping out the Hazard switch and the flasher relay as quick simple things before I start testing through with the multimeter

    The answer was the flasher relay. Once changed everything was back to normal and working. I wish I started there!

    • Like 2
  6. The plot thickens. I pulled all the big maxi fuses in the engine bay and cleaned those.

    Disconnected the loom on the footwell of the bulkhead to the rear. Fuse in (turns out I had been checking fuse 16 not 15!) And fuse 15 for left hand sidelights blows so now I know it's front

    Removed wheel and left wheel arch to disconnect sidelights,  indicator and headlight plus a relay from headlight main beam to some spotlights.

    Cleaned that lot up and put back together and the sidelights now work fine. At some point in the messing about I was getting an indicator light on one side with the hazard lights switch on.

    Now nothing I do results in any indicators or hazard lights. I have 12v power at fuse 1 with the hazard lights on and no power without

  7. I think you could be right. Had a quick look whilst there tonight and could not get fuse to blow for sidelights. Interestingly though the left hand side front and back side lights won't come on but with the fuse out the dash lights go out

     

    Then put hazard lights on which immediately blew the fuse. A replacement fuse does not blow and the hazards and indicators don't work

  8. I have an issue with a 1998 300 tdi 90 where the left hand sidelights fuse. if you turn the lighting switch to the first position the work fine, as soon as you move it to the second position (headlights on too) then the left hand side lights fuse.

     

    I can't see any connection other than the switch itself unless I am being dim (pardon the pun!)? Next step would be to strip that apart I guess

  9. 2 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

    Normal width one … not sure why it had the low exhaust - might help me fit it in the garage though

    IMG_9617.thumb.jpeg.ddd8de7cfa7dbb449c16ccf047eef57c.jpeg
     

    IMG_9618.thumb.jpeg.84854bc552affc32a776911b69f51d5b.jpeg

     

    I got the OH’s blessing - though not immediately! 

    Where to put it is a question I need to answer - I can possibly make space in my garage for it. If not it might be under a cover outside.

    I think I’ll start with a flail mower, I’d like a haybob, and a small square baler eventually. Not sure how I find an old baler that’s cheap but not worn out though - I’ve no idea how they work.

    I did plan on buying a scruffier tractor that I could leave up at the field … this is a bit nice to just leave parked in the middle of nowhere.

    Longer term I am going to look at getting planning for a small 2 bay barn, something a bit more secure, or if it will fit in the garage at home perhaps even a field shelter to keep the mower out the weather.

    It’s very exciting ! 
     

    I’ve paid a deposit and the chap gave me the V5 to take, he said he works on trust. 😊

    The benefit of an underslung exhaust is not catching low trees when paddock topping round the edge, both of our 135's have bent exhausts!

    I keep looking at flails but unsure what to go for. Currently its more like a paddy field here rather than something you could drive a machine onto so is not that high a priority!

    • Like 1
  10. 4 hours ago, Nonimouse said:

    Don't use a detergent. The Dishwasher drying cycle will be too hot, unless you have a 25/30 degree setting. Put the hook in a couple of pars of socks, then put the whole thing in a pillow case and wash in a washing machine on a cold wash

    This is what I do. When the missus is out though as it still makes a reasonable noise

  11. 13 hours ago, deep said:

    That doesn't sound right!  There should be springs top and bottom and it's the adjusters that stop the shoes going back too far.

    You are right....this post is correct below

    On 6/26/2018 at 7:07 PM, Paul Woodward said:

    The only time I've experienced this is when the shoe springs were incorrectly fitted.

    As was said earlier the trailing shoe has no spring at the top.

    land-rover-series-3-front-axle-11-lg.jpg

     

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