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L19MUD

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by L19MUD

  1. These posts prompted me to give a bit of an update. The Ant is nice and simple to work on, makes a Series Land Rover look complex! I have now changed all the brake slave cylinders plus master, same for the clutch and also freed off/cleaned/greased the adjusters on the brakes. This picture of the clutch and brake masters show just how simple it is in the cab The chassis is in pretty good condition when you compare it to the same age Land Rover (1986) with only the center cross being corroded. This is as a result of a bad design where the bottom plate holds water. I have chopped out the plate here ready to be replaced and you can see the corrosion better I have welded new metal in and sealed it all up to try and stop it happening again although this will live indoors from now on so I do not see that becoming an issue. The other rust areas were the bottoms of the mudguards, I cut out the rotten metal and welded in new (after I sorted the MIG welder issue!) Not perfect but will be presentable enough after they have some paint I have now finished cleaning up the chassis and cab supports ready for paint plus started work on the drop sides and wheels, once paint goes on I I think I will have started to turn the corner a bit
  2. Hi John, yes they came out and yes I removed the seat covers first. There is a really good video on how to do it on the web from Britpart! I am certainly no upholsterer and all of my seats look great. Also worth fitting the seat heater kit at the same time
  3. come on you should know this is the way to load aggregates without sides!!
  4. I still prefer the ARC if I am honest. The MIG comes out if it has to
  5. I love the Land Rover shows (I know a lot on here don't!) and went to Billing for the first time around 15 years ago I think and always loved it. I went to Kelmarsh once and was not that impressed. I never went to the off road mini show but we did camp there the last 2 or 3 times we went to Billing and really liked it. How did it compare to the original Billing? Was a shame how Live planned the show last year to clash on purpose
  6. This is exactly the advice I was going to give, he other insurer legally cannot write the vehicle off so they have to fix it to pre accident standard. It will not be recorded as an insurance write off if it is repaired instead of written off and a payment to you so that should not be a concern In my mind there are 4 possible scenarios here; 1 - Accept a payment for the car and it is written off - does not sound like an acceptable scenario and you need to make sure any payment would cover a vehicle of the same standard. You could do this by sending links to adverts of 110's of the same spec/mileage/condition etc and buy something else 2 - Accept payment for the car as above and then buy it back at a reduced value and get repaired yourself. Note this WOULD mean you have a car that is recorded as written off and affect the value 3 - Insist on it being repaired as advised with a new chassis - this is likely to mean you get a galvanized chassis if that is all that is available so this could actually be quite a bonus? 4 - They find someone willing to repair it without replacing the chassis. In all honesty I am surprised the chassis is bent but it is impossible to say looking at it from a picture not stripped down Option 3 sounds the best to me but that doe depend if you need that hire car/they will let you keep it for the much longer duration required
  7. Thermoset sounds like the one to go for then if you have a choice?
  8. Whilst I agree that is also true the two types were completely different in the way they reacted to removal! I gave up with the light guards in the end as the plastic just melted and moved about, the problem was solved when I accidentally left them on the bonfire.....
  9. My experience of powder coated items is pretty much this! I have purchased Land Rover light guards and bumpers that have been fine for a few years and then water gets in and rust gets behind the coating and it comes off in big nasty flakes. Interestingly the only positive experience I have had are on a pair of Scorpion Racing tree sliders purchased many many moons ago, they were galvanized and then powder coated from new and they held up amazingly well for 15 years. Even when someone drove a Mondeo into one scraping down to the galv the powder coating did not then start lifting either side of the scrape even years after. When I did my rebuild I cleaned everything of powder coat before being re galvanised, including the tree sliders to repair the crash damage. What was interesting was that the light guards and bumper powder coat melted into a gloop when trying to get it off with a sander/wire brush it seemed more like a layer of plastic. The coating on the tree sliders did not melt like that and cleaned off with a lot of persuasion from the wire brush on the grinder It seemed like a totally different coating used between the two items
  10. Interestingly mine is also a Bradbury but the beams are not intrusive like that. The ramps that the wheels run on are shaped so that the wheel free beams push partly underneath them so they do not get in the way. In my picture above the ramp has not been pushed up tight to the wheels free beam
  11. The wheels free works by leaving the normal ramps on the floor, you do that by driving the car on then sliding plates on the end of each ramp back onto the ramp so they do not overlap the main frame then when you lift it up the ramps stay on the ground and only the two cross beams move up
  12. You would have to take the jacks off yes. Probably not normal! Jacking beams are a lot easier to use than the wheels free as you have to get the fixed beam in exactly the right pace to use them. In reality i hardly use the wheels free now. It is useful to use when painting a chassis though as it makes the access better
  13. Not sure what your ramp is like but the wheels free beams (1 fixed and 1 movable) have a flat top. The jacking beams run on these on sprung loaded wheels that lift up when weight is put on them. Will take a picture
  14. As above really. A ramp is the way to go. I have wheels free on my 4 poster but rarely use it that way. I have a couple of jacking beams which make it easy to get the wheels off the lift. Doing brakes or wheel bearings etc at a nice height is amazing compared to sitting on the floor!!
  15. New liner fitted and back up and running!
  16. They will contact you to confirm the order via email. When i was there on monday they said Britpart had 250 ordered! A lot are going abroad apparently. They make around 50 a week and the lead time for mine were around 10-12 weeks
  17. That is what I have found too. Couple of decent ones near Manchester but I have not got keen enough yet to go and look!
  18. Nothing helpful to add other than I am considering the same for my 110 rear axle and was planning on fitting a disc braked Salisbury if I can find one or convert the drum one I have if not. Is the length to the nose of the diff of the Puma axles the same or do they use a different length prop shaft?
  19. Most have 2.7 TDv6 engines not the 3.6 TDV8 and they like to seize!
  20. This is the idea i used when i lifted the body off my 90. I have a 4 poster so lifted it up and then held the body up with poles across at the back and high lift jacks at the front until there was space for a pole at the front with the gearbox out of the way
  21. Well now I feel like a right tool! Pull the side off and tested the voltage at the wires to the motor, varies smoothly between 12 and 25v so all good. Then realised the rollers are slipping...the liner is knackered. I can barely pull the wire through. I though it had a new liner but I think that must be the teflon one I use for Ali welding. Just shows basics first!!
  22. Diagnosing it without knowing the paramenters is going to be tricky. I guess the control knob and circuit just varies the voltage to the motor. Question is what range should it operate at
  23. The wire feed in my trusty MIG welder has died, it moves so is getting power but only moves very slowly. Are they universal or do i need to buy the specific one for my welder? Welder in question is a Cemont cemig 170
  24. Sorry shouldn't laugh but this is why my wife insists she has an Audi/BMW for when all the Land Rovers decide they want the week off at the same time Hope you get them sorted
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