soutie

I recently replaced my indicator column with a new non branded one. The horn worked, but the indicators did not. Taking it off, I tested it and the indicator wiring on it was faulty. In the bin it went after sacrificing the black collar bit to go on my old one and it was back to working.

This is mine. I switched the last two wires round after the photos as I had them the wrong way round and the gauge was reading minus temperatures.

I have one fitted to my 110 200tdi. Bought it off a well know seller site for a price cheaper than fleabay. It is 1/8 NPT thread. I tapped the manifold when off the engine.

Finish my 1989 110 and get her back on the road hopwfully without finding any more self inflicted errors.

Vin plate snapped in my ownership. Can you get a new one made? Door switches makes sense. I had somebody add central locking and an alarm and he wired all the door switches in red and green. It makes sense if he did not use the front two door wires.

I have a 1989 110 county. Originally it was a TD. In my engine bay on the left and right hand side, coming out of the lights wiring loom is a sheathed bit. It is either Purple Blue or it could be a Pink Blue wire and a Black wire. Looking at the wiring diagram I can't find what they belong to. Are they pre-wired for spotlights? Or what are they used for?

Diff's are EP90. As per FridgeFreezer, identify which gearbox you have so the forum can help. For filling the gearbox and diffs I used a lidl 5lt weed sprayer filled with the oil. You pump up to pressurise it and fill them in one go instead using those small 500ml bottles which dribble everywhere.

Put on the old switch today. Left hand indicators now working. Went back to the wiring diagram and hazards switch. All seemed to be correct there. I tested the old switch and on the left side wiring and the voltage switched between 0 and 12.3 volts. Then tested the right hand side, it was a constant 12.3 volts. Taking the dash apart I could see the green and white wire from the hazards switch going behind the instrument panel and into a loom with a bullet connector before it went in. The ligher green and white wire from the other side of thevplug from the indicator switch also going into another part of the loom. Thinking that there is a join in the middle that has pulled apart, I made a short length of wire with bullet connectors on it can connected it to the other side of the switch's plug. I then undid the single bullet plug connector on the dark green and white side of the loom. Put in a double connector and connected the old wires and my new length of wire. Now the right hand side indicators also worked. Some time over the next couple of days I will take the new indicator switch off and see why it is not working. If I can't get it to work I will replace it with the old one and make a bodge on the plastic bit that holds it to the steering column which is brocken. A bit disappointed that the new one is duff, but glad I found the issue with the wiring. The other thing that I found is if I moved the red wire from pin 4 to 8, then all the instrument lights flash when the hazards are on. So moved it back to pin 4. However when the lights are on the switch does not light up. Is there a bulb in this switch which should light up or not?

I have a retrofitted Td5 dash in my 1989 110. The hazard switch does not have a plug and I did not note the wires position when I dismantled it 12 years ago for my rebuild. I have wired it as per the photo below. The switch now works and indicators flash when the ignition is off or on. However the indicators do not work. I have changed the indicator dash stalk as the plastic bit around the steering column was brocken. Could it be my wiring of the hazards that has caused this, or should I test with the old indicator switch to see if it is the new one that is playing up? If I move the light green wire from pin number 6 to 8 the indicators still work. The trailer light on the dash flashes using both pins when the switch is on. I tried this LG wire in place of the other one on pin 3 and it did not work, so think I have the wires in the correct places. DG is dark green so I could differentiate between that green and the other two wires.

That was the original latch which matches the new one fitted. A friend turned down the nob on the striker by an 1/8 inch this morning and it now fits and works. I checked the part number of the saftey catch on its box and it matches what Western gave. As I have an up rated intercooler in front of the radiator, that is why I think it was catching. So I cut the catch in half and slide the hook inside to decrease it length. A hole drilled and a bolt and nut to hold it all together. It now does not hit the intercooler. Just in case I have stuck a strip of plastic on top of the intercooler as a wear strip.

Western, thanks. As you can see below why I was asking the question.

I went to fit the bonnet striker and catch to my 1989 110. The bonnet would not close and after much head scratching I found that bonnet striker diameter is too big for the catch. Plus the saftey catch is too long hence the Mildly miffed angle on the bonnet. What part numbers should I be using? Is it MRC9995 for the striker? Not sure what the saftey catch part number is.

Nickname from time doing National Service. Soutie means salty in Afrikaans. A slang name for an English South African. As one foot in England and one in South Africa and your member hanging in the sea. My retort, was I was proud that my member was long enough to hang in the water.

FridgeFreezer these are the two multi meters that I have. How do I use them to test continuity and what is positive and negative?

Thanks for the replies. I am using the continuity test as per the photo. The gauge has a plastic casing and is digital. I have checked and I had wired in the positive feed and negative correctly. The wiring for the probe has a red wire with a blue terminal and a yellow wire with a red terminal. I have assumed the red wire is the positive. But to make sure I also wired them in the other way round. Both ways round the gauge works. I then rewired it with the probe red wire the positive plug. Still not sure which way round they go. I have check the instructions and it does not mention the wire colour and only had a positive or negative on a black and white diagram.

On my 1989 rebuild I have a few questions from a non sparky like me, like should the white ignition switch positive wire read negative with my Sealey continuity tester when the ignition is off? When the ignition is on it reads positive. Plus, I have an exhaust gas temperature gauge which positive wire, when not connected to the ignition feed wire gives a negative reading when I test it with my continuity tester. When connected up it gives a tempreture reading. Does this look normal?

Thanks for the replies. It sounds like I should leave a relay in there as a spare. Any other ideas?

Trying to sort out the wiring on my 1989 110 that I am rebuilding. On my heatered rear screen relay I have a wire soldered to the black pink wire. I assume that this should go to earth. Is this a correct assumption. Looking at the wiring diagram for 4 cylinder models 1986 to 1990, there are side diagrams for the rear heated screen with relays, but the others do not match what I have. Looking at the 1991 onwards wiring diagram I can match 4 of the 5 relays that I have by the fuse box. However I can't find one on the diagram. It has a white red wire, white wire, white purple and a white wire. I have a 200 tdi in the 110 and don't have twin tanks. What is this relay for?

Thanks for all the suggestions. My Seal bleeder cap does not fit the clutch master cylinder so I bodged a cap and bled it. I then adjusted the pedal height. In the majority of cases it now returns. The more I pump it the better the return. I will try and bleed it it and look to put a pedal stop bolt in.

I have procured a Sealey positive brake and clutch bleeder. I will try it this weekend and let you know how I get on.

Thanks to all for the ideas. I will try and bleed it again and see how I get on.

The bleed nipple is at the top. Absolute pig to get to with a normal 11mm spanner as too little room to crack it by a quarter. I have a small 5/16 spanner that fits that I am using. I will try re-bleed it and see what happens. Where do you by the remote bleed setup? Or do you need to get somebody to make them up for you?

It had resistance, but not as much as I expected.

I am in the process of finishing my 1989 110s restoration. In doing so I have replaced the clutch, clutch slave and master cylinder. Yesterday I used a vacuum bleeder to bleed the system. The issue is that if you press the clutch it goes to the floor and does not come back. The clutch pedal is the later clutch pedal with the centre spring into the bushes. I took off the spring, examined it to see if it was broken and replaced it. It was very easy to do. Does this mean that the spring is faulty? Or could I have install it upside-down? When pressing the clutch there is resistance and then like a snap and it pulls it to the floor. I tried adjusting it to the 14cm off the floor and that did not make any difference. Has anybody got any idea of the what the issue is?

I am finally getting round to getting a spacer made for the overdrive to give it a deeper sump. A work colleague of mine has cad drawn the spacer and now is going to 3d print it so I can test it before I get it water blasted out of aluminum. To help, does anybody know what bolt size holds on the sump. The head size is 11mm and the thread pitch appears to be 1mm from the thread and tap set measuring gauge that I have. Before I start looking for m7 bolts can anybody confirm what the bolt size and thread are?