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UdderlyOffroad

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UdderlyOffroad last won the day on July 6 2017

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  1. This. The Lidl saw is fantastic for the money. The supplied track…not so much. I’ve yet to stump up for the Festool track, but I’m told that the Evolution track also fits. Does it *have* to be cordless? I know that once you go cordless, it’s hard to go back. But, when I use a tracksaw, I’m usually setting up saw horses, a spoil board….etc. Point is, as there’s some set up involved, running an extension lead is no great problem. It’s not like a drill or angle grinder, which you take to the job. So unless you’re building your own off-grid ranch up a mountain in Wales, I don’t think you’ll gain much from a cordless version, save for an emptier bank account. And, frankly if you’re not using an extractor on a tracksaw, you’re just creating work for yourself. Their design means that they are much more effective at capturing dust than a circular saw. My cheapo Screwfix ‘titan’ ‘shop vac has a power take off which I plug the saw into. As long as you keep the saw running for a couple of seconds after the cut, you can drastically cut down on the dust. I do this even when working outside. As for clamps…in my mind, even the cheapest OSB is too expensive to make a mistake on, so I always clamp it. You can get special thin clamps that slot into the bottom of the rail (£18 from Amazon), or sacrifice a couple of clamps by trimming them to fit with an angle grinder – assuming you have the right type to begin with. Finally, somebody mentioned the 'DIY' approach by building your own rail for a circular saw. Chalk and cheese. Even with my cheapo Lidl with the factory blade, it produces far, far cleaner cuts than my previous attempt to build a rail. That, and after a while my 'exterior grade' plywood rail warped, despite being stored in a dry garage. Don't bother.
  2. I'm no expert, but I believe all of those are still able to use their existing type approval, and therefore crash test results to avoid the need to meet the new pedestrian safety requirements. The new Defender cannot, as it is a completely new design and will require new type approval. It cannot use the old Defender's 'type approval' (if such a thing ever existed).
  3. This, microcontrollers are pennies in quantities...so your interior light has a micro controller that performs on/off/dim slowly that used to be a capacitor and resistor combination. Does that count? It's largely an irrelevance, provided there's some resilience built into the thing. So it won't leave you stranded if any of the non-vital ECUs goes belly up and pulls the rest of the network down with it. No car will have this now, gotta protect pedestrians in a crash
  4. Long time no post... I don't hate it, but £45k for a basic spec 110?? LR clearly not interested in the market that is farmers and tradesmen buying a mid-spec jap pickup for £26k are they? A few grand more, possibly, but they've clearly made the decision to take themselves out of that market altogether, despite the 'commerical' variants.
  5. I got there after 0830, so was relegated to a pretty poor pitch position. No matter, I only had a few items to sell to clear up some space in the lock up. The only thing that failed to shift was a set of wheels to fit a VW, which is no great surprise really! But it was definitely very big, and well attended. The bogs as usual were a disgrace, and Newbury showground could do so much better. I had an 'oops' moment and ended up purchasing one of those horizontal+vertical metal band saws that Clark and all the other usual suspects do a version of. This one happens to be a Warco. I know they have their issues, but they seem to hold their money on Ebay. Having lifted one solo into the back of a Discovery, I can confirm that they appear to be made of pig-iron! Matt
  6. Anyone going tomorrow? I've packed the truck with all sorts of ta...useful items and the bread for the sammiches has just come out the oven. Matt
  7. Congrats Mike, just caught up on this thread, what a build! Reckon you'll bring it to the Newbury Show in October so the terminally nosey amongst us can have a look at your handiwork? Matt
  8. Go for it. I bought mine when they first had them in 2016 and I've been very pleased with it. It's fine for DIY use. It's great to have something you can roll to the vehicle and have a little workbench to to put stuff on whilst you take it apart. It's on the right in the picture below, clearly without the treadplate 'bling' of the more recent models but I think it's still the same. My only gripe is that for me it's a little too tall and tippy, and the wheels aren't very good. These are minor complaints however. I've sold mine to the guy I share my lock up with, and he's very happy with it. I'm now using a 'Continental Tools' (left in the picture below), which is slightly happier rolling across uneven surfaces.
  9. Afternoon all... I'm having an intermittent starting issue with my W plate Disco 2 TD5, and it's been getting worse recently. I'll try to start it, and it won't crank, all the lights illuminate on the dash, and it starts bonging at me. I also get that weird 'B' symbol on the LCD display, which apparently means the immobiliser has kicked in. Disconnecting the battery for a minute sorts it, but it is getting quiet annoying to have to do that. If it makes any difference, I'm unlocking it with the key, and locking it again with the switch on the dash via the passenger door. This is to prevent the alarm arming itself, as the remote part of the key is long since kaputt. Where should I start looking for the fault? Thanks all Matt
  10. I’ve gone round this loop somewhat when seeing what I could put in my ‘vapour’ garage at the bottom of the garden. Height issues notwithstanding, the biggest problem with the recessed into the floor ramps, as I see it, is that they are more money than a mid-range ‘CE marked’ chinesium 2 or 4 poster. Add in the requirement to have you or your builder mess around getting the recesses correct and the cost starts to mount. Whereas a low cost 4 poster just bolts to the floor, and can store a ‘project’ vehicle up in the air and you can park underneath it. Always assuming you can get planning permission for a building tall enough, that is*. I know you crave an open working space Arjan…but in your previous projects you’ve mentioned you have a ‘decent’ amount of space/land where you are. Surely it’s cheaper in the long run to create a dedicated covered space for a four poster lift and be done with it? In my head, you’re then not making as many compromises with the lift either, and you can do pretty much anything safely on a 4x4 with a four poster. Additionally, you can get small tractors/trailers/equipment etc up to a decent working height. Try doing that with a 2 poster, or even a drive over ramp device. That said, if you’re going to do an interesting build thread on integrating one of these things…don’t let me talk you out of it!! Finally, you mentioned about not having to work on more than one vehicle at a time. Good luck with that, I’ve never managed it :-) Matt *Am sure someone will be along shortly to link to Simon/X-eng’s lifting roof device!
  11. Compressors are one of those 'how did I manage without' tools, in that you'll soon find yourself doing more with it that you thought you would. My top tip would be: If you're think aren't going to be moving any time soon, do yourself and your neighbours a favour: Build a dog house for it outside your garage. Then run hard lines in your choice of material and fit a filter reg-set. Personally I've been squirrelling away lengths of copper pipe and yorkshire fittings, but there are other options.
  12. I might have the wrong end of the stick here, but it looks like you want to mount your brake controllor in the caravan? Googling for Prodigy* brake controllers shows they're meant to be mounted on the dash, as they require adjustment and setting up, and appear to have a built-in sensor (i assume an acceleromator a la mobile phones). I can see this could get confused if it were mounted in the trailer? Also it appears they can be over-ridden for reversing manouveurs, which would be desirable. I might have googled the wrong thing, however, so am happy to be corrected. But If I am accurate, it means you need to find a fused feed on the dash and wire up as above. Running the blue cable in conduit on the top of the chassis to the rear of the Landie to meet up with a spare pin in this 's' socket should be fairly straightforward. If it were me, I'd go one stage further, convert 13pin electrics, not only are they are superior and more robust design, but they also have a spare pin which you could use for your trailer brake signal. *I am the scotchlok firestarter! My coat? Why thank you.
  13. The trailer equivalent of Trigger's broom! Seriously though, try any local coachbuilders/commercial vehicle repair place, a word with the foreman might get you something for around cost price. Failing that, you might get a lead on somewhere else from them
  14. There's a lot going on this thread, and some over-complication. But if I were doing any amount of camping, I'd go with a modified version of Miketomcat's solution of a voltage sensitive relay charging a second battery. This battery would feed fused, dedicated charging points. This eliminates, as far as practicable, user error, though you may want to trickle charge the second battery overnight before setting off on a camping trip, if you only drive your vehicle on short runs. Reading the OP's posts, it seems he might also be struggling with a parasitic draw somewhere, or possibly even a poor connection in the charging circuit. Youtube has a few videos on how to determine a parasitic draw using the voltage drop method. Start with that.
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