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UdderlyOffroad

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UdderlyOffroad last won the day on July 6 2017

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About UdderlyOffroad

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    Bristol

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  1. UdderlyOffroad

    ibex 300 build

    Congrats Mike, just caught up on this thread, what a build! Reckon you'll bring it to the Newbury Show in October so the terminally nosey amongst us can have a look at your handiwork? Matt
  2. UdderlyOffroad

    Aldi Titanium Tool Cabinet

    Go for it. I bought mine when they first had them in 2016 and I've been very pleased with it. It's fine for DIY use. It's great to have something you can roll to the vehicle and have a little workbench to to put stuff on whilst you take it apart. It's on the right in the picture below, clearly without the treadplate 'bling' of the more recent models but I think it's still the same. My only gripe is that for me it's a little too tall and tippy, and the wheels aren't very good. These are minor complaints however. I've sold mine to the guy I share my lock up with, and he's very happy with it. I'm now using a 'Continental Tools' (left in the picture below), which is slightly happier rolling across uneven surfaces.
  3. Afternoon all... I'm having an intermittent starting issue with my W plate Disco 2 TD5, and it's been getting worse recently. I'll try to start it, and it won't crank, all the lights illuminate on the dash, and it starts bonging at me. I also get that weird 'B' symbol on the LCD display, which apparently means the immobiliser has kicked in. Disconnecting the battery for a minute sorts it, but it is getting quiet annoying to have to do that. If it makes any difference, I'm unlocking it with the key, and locking it again with the switch on the dash via the passenger door. This is to prevent the alarm arming itself, as the remote part of the key is long since kaputt. Where should I start looking for the fault? Thanks all Matt
  4. UdderlyOffroad

    New Workshop Planned

    I’ve gone round this loop somewhat when seeing what I could put in my ‘vapour’ garage at the bottom of the garden. Height issues notwithstanding, the biggest problem with the recessed into the floor ramps, as I see it, is that they are more money than a mid-range ‘CE marked’ chinesium 2 or 4 poster. Add in the requirement to have you or your builder mess around getting the recesses correct and the cost starts to mount. Whereas a low cost 4 poster just bolts to the floor, and can store a ‘project’ vehicle up in the air and you can park underneath it. Always assuming you can get planning permission for a building tall enough, that is*. I know you crave an open working space Arjan…but in your previous projects you’ve mentioned you have a ‘decent’ amount of space/land where you are. Surely it’s cheaper in the long run to create a dedicated covered space for a four poster lift and be done with it? In my head, you’re then not making as many compromises with the lift either, and you can do pretty much anything safely on a 4x4 with a four poster. Additionally, you can get small tractors/trailers/equipment etc up to a decent working height. Try doing that with a 2 poster, or even a drive over ramp device. That said, if you’re going to do an interesting build thread on integrating one of these things…don’t let me talk you out of it!! Finally, you mentioned about not having to work on more than one vehicle at a time. Good luck with that, I’ve never managed it :-) Matt *Am sure someone will be along shortly to link to Simon/X-eng’s lifting roof device!
  5. UdderlyOffroad

    Air compressor basics

    Compressors are one of those 'how did I manage without' tools, in that you'll soon find yourself doing more with it that you thought you would. My top tip would be: If you're think aren't going to be moving any time soon, do yourself and your neighbours a favour: Build a dog house for it outside your garage. Then run hard lines in your choice of material and fit a filter reg-set. Personally I've been squirrelling away lengths of copper pipe and yorkshire fittings, but there are other options.
  6. I might have the wrong end of the stick here, but it looks like you want to mount your brake controllor in the caravan? Googling for Prodigy* brake controllers shows they're meant to be mounted on the dash, as they require adjustment and setting up, and appear to have a built-in sensor (i assume an acceleromator a la mobile phones). I can see this could get confused if it were mounted in the trailer? Also it appears they can be over-ridden for reversing manouveurs, which would be desirable. I might have googled the wrong thing, however, so am happy to be corrected. But If I am accurate, it means you need to find a fused feed on the dash and wire up as above. Running the blue cable in conduit on the top of the chassis to the rear of the Landie to meet up with a spare pin in this 's' socket should be fairly straightforward. If it were me, I'd go one stage further, convert 13pin electrics, not only are they are superior and more robust design, but they also have a spare pin which you could use for your trailer brake signal. *I am the scotchlok firestarter! My coat? Why thank you.
  7. UdderlyOffroad

    Re-flooring my trailer

    The trailer equivalent of Trigger's broom! Seriously though, try any local coachbuilders/commercial vehicle repair place, a word with the foreman might get you something for around cost price. Failing that, you might get a lead on somewhere else from them
  8. UdderlyOffroad

    Charging ancillaries

    There's a lot going on this thread, and some over-complication. But if I were doing any amount of camping, I'd go with a modified version of Miketomcat's solution of a voltage sensitive relay charging a second battery. This battery would feed fused, dedicated charging points. This eliminates, as far as practicable, user error, though you may want to trickle charge the second battery overnight before setting off on a camping trip, if you only drive your vehicle on short runs. Reading the OP's posts, it seems he might also be struggling with a parasitic draw somewhere, or possibly even a poor connection in the charging circuit. Youtube has a few videos on how to determine a parasitic draw using the voltage drop method. Start with that.
  9. UdderlyOffroad

    Accident Advice

    I know this is unlikely, but whatever you do, don't be tempted to get a Disco 1 winch bumper and try to make it fit, it will take lots of cutting+fiddling and never look right!!
  10. UdderlyOffroad

    Hobbyweld gas

    I've found the Hobbyweld bottles are either not very full to begin with, or the bluddy things leak. It's seems mine are constantly empty, and I haven't done much welding recently. I always turn the bottle off too. I might give BOC /Ryval a go, especially as I just started a job which doesn't offer flexitime, so getting to the welding factors in work hours is now a challenge, albeit the £19.50 delivery charge stings a little.
  11. UdderlyOffroad

    To scrap or not to scrap

    I'm not sure it is; your mate said it was a 'ringer', some posters above are being uber cautious - but all we know for certain from your posts is that it's a 'bitsa'. As Western pointed out, the fact the engine is a 200 Tdi could've been a factory upgrade kit. You have matching VIN numbers between ID plate and log book. As you say, it's a workhorse, so nobody in the real world would expect all original bits to be still on the vehicle given the meccano-like nature of Landies. See Snagger's post above as an example. But anyhoo, you're keeping the truck, and will eventually re-chassis it. To that end, I wouldn't bother trying to patch a cross member, as your bound to find more rot once you start prodding with a screwdriver - but obviously it depends on how you value your time spent fixing it. Also, welding gas, wire and cosumables aren't free! So yes, find the biggest set of forks you can for the front loader and get to it!! The only caveat with that, inspect your bulkhead carefully for rot too; it's not that it's an MOT failure (except round the brake servo), but it will let in water and otherwise need attention eventually.
  12. UdderlyOffroad

    Welding Mask/Helmet

    There was a thread on here a while back re this; I'm still very happy with my ESAB helmet, which was £60-odd from the local welding factors. If you can go to your local place and try a couple - bearing in mind these places keep 'trade' hours so you probably need to leave work early one day - there's usually a deal to be had for cash, and prices are often better than online.
  13. UdderlyOffroad

    To scrap or not to scrap

    Slow down people, for all we know somebody legally owned both vehicles and made one 'good' one out of 2 vehicles. Used to happen a lot, less common now. Especially with Defenders and Minis, before prices skyrocketed. Personally, you've had it this long, I'd get the galv chassis ordered and swap it. Do as Western says, make sure the VIN plate on the brake servo (if it's still there) matches the log book, and stamp up the new chassis with that number.
  14. UdderlyOffroad

    Slightly OT I Guess

    Try a proper, umolested mp3 file first! Don't bother with Amazon or some other digital music store...so for instance, go to youtubeinmp4.com , copy and paste a link of any youtube video into the box, select create mp4...then importantly, when the page loads, press the 'download mp3' button to get an audio only file. Copy that to your SD card and see if your head unit plays it. To be honest I think your HU has issues. Mac hidden folders don't usually confuse them, as they're, well, hidden. But I'm sure someone will be along to say they've had issues with that...
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