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UdderlyOffroad last won the day on November 4 2015

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  1. The 'flux core' we get over this side of the pond is meant for gasless application, rather than what's generally available in North America. This appears to be intended to supplement the shielding gas (at least according to some of the Youtube channels I subscribe to). I would guess it comes down to a difference in what's acceptable according to ASME/AWS and the EN stds, which therefore drives what consumables are available. I am not a welder or materials engineer however, so am happy to be corrected. As for spray transfer, yes it is do-able with DIY kit, but I would personally stick to the old motto of 'the key to good penetration is good preparation' using conventional MIG...
  2. Thanks for the info. Must admit am tempted, but will pass in favour of the spending 5 times as much on the R-tech inverter MIG which can do stick too... As we've mentioned Bridgwater, Toolstation have their 'outlet' shop there, always worth a peruse if you're in the area. Weston Five-0; hmmmm not sure that TV series would get commissioned somehow. .... Damn now I have a mental image of the theme song to drunks fighting underneath the pier....
  3. The 'C'-clamps in the 'welding clamps' set are a little on the small side, but probably quite good for sheet metal. At a fiver a set, you can't argue, I picked up 2 sets earlier today. I walked away from the inverter stick welder though, 80 A seems just too puny to be useful. Be interested to know if anyone on here buys one and how they get on.
  4. Deepest sympathies to both of you. None of this is easy. I’ve seen the special type of hell on earth that is a parent losing a child when we lost my brother, wouldn’t wish that on my worst enemy. I also remember the empty space I felt when our 16 year old collie mongrel had to make the one-way trip to the vet (frankly I’ve got a tear in my eye just thinking about it). Dogs are bu**ers for leaving you. Anyhoo, there must be a compromise in here. The off-topic posts do add to the forum’s value. Think of Fridge’s garage, Rattlers’ log burner install, Mike’s camper trailer build? Also people asking about their non-LR cars? Should we ban that too? A while ago I proposed an off-topic forum, I even offered to help moderate it. Crucially, the posts in that forum should be excluded from the Google search results. That way, the value of lr4x4 as the place to go to find technical answers to Land Rover related issues remains. Additionally, those who have no interest is such frivolities can exclude the OT forum from appearing in their ‘unread posts’ feed. I’ve always been somewhat confused about the scope of the ‘international forum’, so perhaps the above suggestion could complement it rather than replace it? Matt
  5. Indeed. Having been in and out of many different hire cars over the last 5 years of employment, I've noticed a definite decrease in the build quality of VAG group cars and a definite increase in the build quality of Kias especially. I hope the Germans pick it up, and who knows we might even have a sensible discussion in the press on the merits of a test system that bear little to no resemblance to real life. Given the parallels with school league tables, not to mention the chattering urban middle classes already thoughtlessly parroting the oversimplified 'Diesels bad!' mantra*, I don't hold out much hope
  6. And not just the earths either. The symptoms described could also point to loose/corroded battery terminal clamps, hence the intermittent nature of the problem. Make sure they’re tight, cleaned and smeared with some goop such as Vaseline.
  7. Honestly, using storage on board the cameras kind of removes the point for me, I want to be able to control and record it from my home office. Albeit it does simplify the wiring! I concur this thread’s taken in a turn down a techie avenue! In your situation, I’d call one of the reputable suppliers and buy a 4 IP camera kit, one of the known brands, e.g. Hikvision. Explain to them on the phone you’re going to need to hook these up via powerline adaptors. This is because you don’t want them to sell you a recorder (NVR) with Power over Ethernet as PoE and Powerline won’t work together*. When the kit and the powerline adaptors arrive: 1) ‘sync’ the powerline adaptors on multiway powerstrip (per the quick start guide, usually just involves pressing a button on the adaptors). 2) plug all the cameras in and get the recorder working ‘on the bench’. Hopefully the kit you buy should have fairly straightforward instructions for this 3) Plug all the cameras into the powerline adaptors and ensure the system still works on the bench 4) Take a camera and powerline adaptor to the outbuilding, connect up temporarily, and ensure the recorder can still see the camera. If it doesn’t work, test the connection back to the main building using your laptop, to ensure it ‘sees’ the internet. 5) Install cameras permanently 6) rinse and repeat steps 4 and 5 for all cameras 7) Then, if you’re worried about the cameras ‘phoning home’ like Fridge, you can setup the parental controls on your router (!) to stop the cameras being able to access the internet directly. Google your routers model no and ‘parental controls’ and you should find a straight forward guide. Doing it this way should ensure you only add one variable at a time, so if something doesn’t work, you can go back to the last step. *That’s not entirely true; I have a powerline adaptor in my outbuilding, but also a PoE injector to power the external camera. 2 boxes that look almost identical but do the diametric opposite! There are combined adaptors that do both, but they’re quite spendy. I’ve had that particular setup rigged up temporarily in my detached garage and it worked ok. So to be clear, powerline adaptors make it possible to have wired network connection by ‘piggybacking’ into the building’s mains electrical wiring. Using a pair of these adaptors, it’s possible to get a network connection to outbuildings that are too far away for wifi signals, and where you want to avoid the expense of burying cable. They’re not as fast as proper network wiring, but are more than sufficient for all but the most High Def of CCTV cameras. Power over Ethernet (PoE) does the opposite trick, by using some of the unused cores in network cable to power low-consumption devices, e.g. cameras. This is desirable because it means you only need to run one cable to the camera. Especially in outdoor installations, it makes weather proofing the whole assembly easier. So most (but not all) IP cameras will be capable of be powered either using PoE or via a power adaptor included with the camera. But, and here’s the gotcha, some kits won’t include separate power adaptors for the camera, as the power will come from the NVR. Hence the need to call the supplier and double-check before slapping the cash down. Matt
  8. There are few members on this forum that could do exactly that with their stashes... My coat? Why thank you!
  9. I think I may have started one of the more recent threads on this. I have yet to report back on it as we are just about to change houses thus the CCTV system was put on hold. However, I have continued researching for the new property. The consensus seems to be not to bother with wireless, as Wifi of whatever type just isn’t set up to cope well with ‘streaming’. However, if mains power is available in your outbuildings, network ‘powerline’ adaptors can used to provide a wired connection for your IP cameras. I’d be interested to see what Network Video Recorder (NVR) people recommend, as they either seem to be of the Chinesium cheap-and-nasty variety, or many hundreds for a decent unit. I have been trying to persuade Zoneminder to work on a Raspberry Pi 3 (in my lunchbreaks), i.e. the roll-your-own solution, but I got bogged down in configuration and dependency hell.
  10. Agreed, don't hate it... Doubt anyone can realistically produce a 'modular' design and meet crash safety, leak tight-ness and NVH (Noise Vibration Harshnees) that are required in a modern vehicle. I can't think of a single production vehicle that currently does it. I'll go further; I don't think many actual first-time customers of the Defender ever used its modularity either? Back on topic...It might just be that with the...uh, Footballerising of the Discovery, it's at least conceivable the Defender replacement might be slightly more utilitarian? I can't believe that in Tata's senior management, there aren't some people who look at what farmers have replaced their Landies with - the Japanese double cab pickup - and not want a slice of that market. Ok, so they'd be chasing a £25k market, which is a considerable come-down from their current £40k (startIng) price. Well, I can hope anyway! Matt
  11. I had a cheapie Clarke which would do gas-less, and I could never get a decent result. Not that the gas results were that good either. Sold that, bought a Screwfix special, I could get a decent bead in gas mode...but my mate bought a modern, electronic MIG and the results on that, even on thin sheet. are something to behold. So I currently coveteth one of those. On Si's recommend I'll probably go for the R-tech as it can also do stick. Handy for mitigating the running-out-of-gas-on-Sunday factor! Short story long, get the R-tech, or a GYS, or a quality 2nd hand unit. Yes, it will cost you about £400-500 for a complete decent setup including gas. If that seems steep, it is. But I'm willing to bet that it won't be an 'occasional use' tool. Once you have one, you'll find all sorts of uses for it. Matt
  12. That controller looks very smart. I like the idea of the CNC machine being a proper device on the network, rather than being some kind of glorified parallel-port driven plotter which requires an attached computer to run it. (Yes, I know of course it still requires a PC running UNCNC/Mach3) Might be worth starting your own thread RobertSpark, I’m sure many of us would be interested to see what you’ve done; Would prevent us dragging Ruuman’s thread too far off-topic.
  13. Surely in the Australian market they can disable the will-not-run-without-Adblue device as it's not required? And she's damning you with faint praise... Matt
  14. You can get the basic model from Screwfix for £42. Frankly If you’ve got £79, another tenner will get you a Bosch model…This is the one I've bought to replace my cheapie which worked for 10yrs. It's really good and chews through concrete. I'd still probably use the metal-gearbox cheapie for demo work though.
  15. If you have a Toolstation near you, they sell Milwaukee branded SDS bits. They’ve held up ok for the work I’ve been doing on my house. And yes they do 6 and 8mm sizes , the most commonly used sizes for rawl plugs