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UdderlyOffroad last won the day on July 6 2017

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  1. Personally, I'd go for either: a) Cheapo bluetooth speaker and phone charging dock screwed to wall. Keeps it out of the way and stops it making accidental trips to the floor. b) Take your phone completely out of the equation. Workshops aren't phone friendly, and tend to distract you. Instead, use an old Laptop running the streaming service of your choice and some PC speakers. Sacrificial cheapo keyboard and mouse so you can use with dirty paws. c) As above but Single board computer (e.g. Raspberry Pi 4) + Old Monitor screwed to wall. Makes for a neat installation. Options B or C allows you to look up stuff, have parts catalogue PDFs open, etc, without getting your phone out constantly. Option C is worth doing if this is your 'forever' garage.
  2. As we're doing puppy pictures... Got this chap just before the lockdown, 4mths old, mother is a springador, dad is pure lab. Picture taken shortly after a bath, due to his first dip in the tide pool at Weston-Super-Mare Hoping to work him, instincts seem good. Attempts to retrieve pigeons in the garden. Never trained a working dog but getting some tips from a pro. Still not made any progress on the 110, as it's at the wrong house!!
  3. Cracking job James, the rest should fly up 😋
  4. The guy I used to share a lock up with had the Ryobi tools system including the impact wrench. It was bluddy good and would undo some really tight nuts, provided you had the room to swing it. They are not compact. My £15 eBay-special windy gun got into spots the Cryobi just couldn't. As we're on this subject, when I last when to my local tyre place, the foreman told me they'd gone from Milwaukees back to air impacts guns. Why? No battery changes, they're less desirable so don't 'walk', and a decent air impact will outlast an electric model, and of course is much cheaper. All of this means that I'm sticking with air. I'm setup with a 3hp compressor, and don't need it to be mobile. I do have other Makita tools so could just buy the bare gun when it next comes on special, and doubtless I'll eventually give in, but having used both, I'm happy with my windy gun for now.
  5. It's not so much de-trailering a complete vehicle...I only have the slightest step up to my garage, but let me tell you, getting a 110 rolling chassis up and down it, on my own is sweaty work and not a little dangerous if it goes wrong! If it's not too late, I urge you to embed a bit of, say M12 studding, into the far end and tie it to the mesh if you can. Likely it'll end up under a work bench /shelf so if it sticks out an inch or two it won't cause a trip hazard. Get yourself a lifting eye with and m12 female thread and a come-along, and you can work smarter not harder...
  6. This. The Lidl saw is fantastic for the money. The supplied track…not so much. I’ve yet to stump up for the Festool track, but I’m told that the Evolution track also fits. Does it *have* to be cordless? I know that once you go cordless, it’s hard to go back. But, when I use a tracksaw, I’m usually setting up saw horses, a spoil board….etc. Point is, as there’s some set up involved, running an extension lead is no great problem. It’s not like a drill or angle grinder, which you take to the job. So unless you’re building your own off-grid ranch up a mountain in Wales, I don’t think you’ll gain much from a cordless version, save for an emptier bank account. And, frankly if you’re not using an extractor on a tracksaw, you’re just creating work for yourself. Their design means that they are much more effective at capturing dust than a circular saw. My cheapo Screwfix ‘titan’ ‘shop vac has a power take off which I plug the saw into. As long as you keep the saw running for a couple of seconds after the cut, you can drastically cut down on the dust. I do this even when working outside. As for clamps…in my mind, even the cheapest OSB is too expensive to make a mistake on, so I always clamp it. You can get special thin clamps that slot into the bottom of the rail (£18 from Amazon), or sacrifice a couple of clamps by trimming them to fit with an angle grinder – assuming you have the right type to begin with. Finally, somebody mentioned the 'DIY' approach by building your own rail for a circular saw. Chalk and cheese. Even with my cheapo Lidl with the factory blade, it produces far, far cleaner cuts than my previous attempt to build a rail. That, and after a while my 'exterior grade' plywood rail warped, despite being stored in a dry garage. Don't bother.
  7. I'm no expert, but I believe all of those are still able to use their existing type approval, and therefore crash test results to avoid the need to meet the new pedestrian safety requirements. The new Defender cannot, as it is a completely new design and will require new type approval. It cannot use the old Defender's 'type approval' (if such a thing ever existed).
  8. This, microcontrollers are pennies in quantities...so your interior light has a micro controller that performs on/off/dim slowly that used to be a capacitor and resistor combination. Does that count? It's largely an irrelevance, provided there's some resilience built into the thing. So it won't leave you stranded if any of the non-vital ECUs goes belly up and pulls the rest of the network down with it. No car will have this now, gotta protect pedestrians in a crash
  9. Long time no post... I don't hate it, but £45k for a basic spec 110?? LR clearly not interested in the market that is farmers and tradesmen buying a mid-spec jap pickup for £26k are they? A few grand more, possibly, but they've clearly made the decision to take themselves out of that market altogether, despite the 'commerical' variants.
  10. I got there after 0830, so was relegated to a pretty poor pitch position. No matter, I only had a few items to sell to clear up some space in the lock up. The only thing that failed to shift was a set of wheels to fit a VW, which is no great surprise really! But it was definitely very big, and well attended. The bogs as usual were a disgrace, and Newbury showground could do so much better. I had an 'oops' moment and ended up purchasing one of those horizontal+vertical metal band saws that Clark and all the other usual suspects do a version of. This one happens to be a Warco. I know they have their issues, but they seem to hold their money on Ebay. Having lifted one solo into the back of a Discovery, I can confirm that they appear to be made of pig-iron! Matt
  11. Anyone going tomorrow? I've packed the truck with all sorts of ta...useful items and the bread for the sammiches has just come out the oven. Matt
  12. Congrats Mike, just caught up on this thread, what a build! Reckon you'll bring it to the Newbury Show in October so the terminally nosey amongst us can have a look at your handiwork? Matt
  13. Go for it. I bought mine when they first had them in 2016 and I've been very pleased with it. It's fine for DIY use. It's great to have something you can roll to the vehicle and have a little workbench to to put stuff on whilst you take it apart. It's on the right in the picture below, clearly without the treadplate 'bling' of the more recent models but I think it's still the same. My only gripe is that for me it's a little too tall and tippy, and the wheels aren't very good. These are minor complaints however. I've sold mine to the guy I share my lock up with, and he's very happy with it. I'm now using a 'Continental Tools' (left in the picture below), which is slightly happier rolling across uneven surfaces.
  14. Afternoon all... I'm having an intermittent starting issue with my W plate Disco 2 TD5, and it's been getting worse recently. I'll try to start it, and it won't crank, all the lights illuminate on the dash, and it starts bonging at me. I also get that weird 'B' symbol on the LCD display, which apparently means the immobiliser has kicked in. Disconnecting the battery for a minute sorts it, but it is getting quiet annoying to have to do that. If it makes any difference, I'm unlocking it with the key, and locking it again with the switch on the dash via the passenger door. This is to prevent the alarm arming itself, as the remote part of the key is long since kaputt. Where should I start looking for the fault? Thanks all Matt
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