Beretta

Hi everybody Just to update this non start/running problem! Battery is fully charged, been on charge for a few days, reconnected battery done the EKA code so many times now to no avail, the engine will imediately start up just above tickover then cuts out- it will not rev at all. took off the antenna wire on the receiver under the parcel shelf the last time it did this so that is not a problem, just replaced batteries in remote. if my memory serves me correct the alarm went off on it's own last time this occured, the remote then decided to work and unlock the vehicle which it didn't when the initial battery was changed resulting in this problem back in Feb it then started ok and has done for months until the battery went flat recently and is now doing this non running thing. I noticed today that the remote will lock up the vehicle but not lock it but will set the alarm ok. Any Ideas- it is really doing my head in. thanks again Bryn

Hi Steve Thanks for replying, when it failed to run after charging the battery and recodeing the damn thing, i disconnected the battery and left the battery on charge, reconnecting it last night, recodeing (eka) and then tried to start it, as before it started only on tickover then cut out, so i don't know yet what the charging voltage is and i don't have a meter either. I'll see if i can borrow one. This is so annoying as i always wanted a p38 after i had a classic for a few years, got this one last year and this problem came along after i changed the battery. Is your location anywhere near mine? Bryn

Hi again everybody. Had a problem early in the year where it would not start after fitting a new battery, eventually after god knows how mainy recodes EKA's it started and has been ok, now 3 months later the battery went flat this week, i thought not going to have a problem again disconnecting battery so i trickle charged it, It started first flick then died i've got the same problem back again. It will start but will not rev at all, just half ticking over it then cuts out. It was ok when i tried it last week, now this b.......y problem has reared it's ugly head again. Have you fine gents got any ideas please this thing is really dogging me off. Bryn

Hi When my old r/r efi did a non start and i couldn't find anything my brothers electrian came along and said, i know what it is mate,not many people know that under the plenium chamber/air flow meter(or near the suspension turret) I can't quite remember,there is a power resistor (held on by a couple of small ba type screws/bolts) which gets all mucked up with road dirt they get a bad connection try to overheat, the terminal that is and it stops it starting. Lo and behold he took it off showed me the offending terminal cleaned it all greased the terminals replaced it within 15 mins it was running. i thought it was something expensively major but it wasn't. another little tip was when checking for fuel, disconnect pipe in engine bay, put in jar, turn ignition on and move flap in air flow meter with your finger slightly the ecu thinks the engine wants more fuel and will make the pump work. you don't have to have the engine turning over or anything, just ignition on. this chappie was a landrover dealer fitter and said it was a common problem for non start efi's. hope this is of some help to you mate. Bryn

Hi again all Ref that non start problem, well, after leaving it alone and a long stay in hospital(still on crutches, can't walk) i put battery on charge, managed to play around with connections as far as i could under bonnet, took the blue aerial lead off that RF receiver box at rear of seat, re-entered eka code and whey-hey it started first time, is that a coincidence or what! runs lovely starts first time each turn of the key except that the tickover is very slow and she slightly hunts on this slow tickover from 200rpm down to 50rpm up and down. Can you offer any advice or ideas on the tickover what can be done about it? Why did this suddenly start after a machine couldn't find anything! the remote still will not lock or unlock the doors but the buttons will operate the alarm because the flashers flash When it started it came up with EAS fault haven't seen it since though, all four lights stayed illuminated on the dash to do with the suspension, that has now settled to the second line but the suspension itself is staying up high at the moment. thanks very much for all your help so far everybody, i really appreciate it. awaiting with anticipation Bryn

Hi Nick If it is the original Landrover Radio/cassette then go down to your local Landrover agent and ask them if they could get you the Radio code, they will also give you the EKA code, if they don't then ask them for it. Go with proof of ownership of the vehicle (log book, bill of sale and driving licence with photo or another form of personal ID), obviously this is to prove you are who you say you are and the vehicle is yours, they will then take photo copies of the documents and get in touch with L/Rover and return a few minutes later with the codes for you. Keep codes safe. hope this helps you. Bryn

Hi David Sorry it's been so long away from this problem got so demoralised with it, but now it's time to look forward again, it's to nice a vehicle to leave. I was hoping that when he clipped that machine on to it, it was going to show up an obvious fault (wishful thinking i suppose)and hear it running afterwards, on my last thread it did start albeit very temporarily of sorts but now nothing. still i'm hoping that you chaps out there will find the solution. i will keep in touch to let you know any outcomes mate. Bryn

Hi again people after this didn't start i left it, thoroughly disheartened. but with your advise i got someone to bring up some diagnostic gear (they cleared existing codes that were on there) and went through various tests and came up with 2 codes PO102 & PO103 can you offer any advise as to what they mean he mentioned something about a short possibly to earth?, again the vehicle would not start at all it appears that we have spark at the plugs ok, you can smell the fuel he then said just spray a small wiff of easy start near the tube after the air filter was removed it should fire at least-no it didn't at all it will prove if it fuel related, not a chance it didn't fire at all. The diagnostic equipment was Auto..... something i can't remember. anyways a renewed approach might help as it won't fire up at all, what has the eka code got to do with the starting? does anybody have a contact for snake who apparently lives near me nr Newbury?, your renewed help would be greatly appreciated. Bryn

Hi again Day off from work went out to the motor, it started i thought it's rectified itself! no chance but it started held it on revs for a couple of minutes then it started loosing power and revs then died out, started it again went to rev it then it started loosing power then cut out, started it with no throttle so it then decides to tickover for a couple of minutes at the correct tickover speed went to rev it it had like a massive flat spot then cut out again, decided to lock door and go back to work deflated, i did notice again that since the battery change and doing the EKA the remote will not lock and alarm the motor (have to lock by key) but it will unlock though, anyway i'm trying to find someone with some diagnostic equipment to have a look without it costing an arm and a leg, i'm hoping that there might be someone on the forum who might be able to help who's got the neccessary gubbins and is local to Newbury. hope the update helps out so far. Bryn

Hi "Stopover" Just sent a reply also to "David Sparkes", yes the battery went totally flat, last owner was going to replace it soon! before i got it, My motor is as at the top of the thread P reg (97) P38 Range Rover 4.0 petrol, Manual, 100k on the clock (nicest bit is it was a 1 owner vehicle-old chap) i did pull some of the fuses out to check them when someone said it could be to do with the fuse box uder the bonnet but obviously couldn't see anything wrong there.what other info do you need mate? i will gladly give it to you, like i said to david I'm an ex "old mechanic". I got out when electronics came in, but i still love working on them! hopefully we will solve the problem. Bryn

Hi David Last owner was going to replace battery soon as it was 4-5 years old anyway, and was dropping it's charge a bit over a couple of weeks, so i thought i would change it to make the car more reliable (joke so far), I live in Newbury in Berkshire! what are those adaptive settings you mentioned? your very right that i don't want to spend loads of money as you say an arm an a leg on something i don't need (christmas coming up and all that!). That why i'm hoping that you guys on the forum can help me as no doubt you experienced the same problems at one stage i was told by an agent it needed a new receiver (£200+fitting+£77 to go on computer+vat+getting it there, happens all the time!I'm an ex "old Mechanic" who can see(sometimes) when someone wants to make easy money, i've been told it's not that anyway. I had a good look around and can't see anything i have touched or knocked to cause the problem. I really appreciate all the help advice and guidance from you all and feel sure that we will remedy the problem-I just want to use it! Bryn

Hi everybody, I'm hoping you can help mre with this problem! I have 1997 4.0 p38 Range Rover, which has started first time ever since i've had it, battery went flat while i was away (1 week) decided to fit a new battery, this now has been a pain in the rear which i wish i hadn't started, anyway changed the battery motor started was running fine 10mins but it did say key code lockout, switched motor off then it would not start, phoned up local agent who said it wanted an EKA code to start it, Take out a mortgage and bring it to us springs to mind!)-don't think so. they gave me the code entered it as shown in book, no start, various people have said disconnect battery, reconnect re-enter code it will take it, after 10 times or so still not starting, turned key on and off couple of times it started revved lovely ran it for 15mins it would not tickover though it was like the tickover speed wanted to be 100rpm so it wanted to try and cut out each time you took foot off throttle (if you held it above tickover speed it ran nice) after running it turn it on/off a couple of times restarted ok, i thought great! left it for 10mins or so switched off then went to start it,it would fire straight away but will not rev in anyway then cut out just after it fired- this is all so strange because the motor would always start first time before this battery was fitted, people have said if someone has got a rovercon they might be able to help diagnose this problem, what ever it is! sorry this so long but needed to give the full SP of what has happened since fitting this new battery. Can anybody help me with this problem? it has been suggested that a fuse box might be faulty but why did it start ok before! the battery was changed.