jonp

If you blank it off you will destroy your gearbox . An oil cooler is essential for the auto transmission . Regards Jonathan

STIG FASTNERS in Darlington they have a website www.a2stainless.co.uk . They do all sorts of stainless stuff and he goes to all the Land Rover shows etc ,and he will sell individual bolts etc Regards Jonathan

Thanks very much for the info . Regards Jonathan

Does any one know if alloy wheels from a 1998 Discovery 300 Tdi fit a 52 plate TD5 110 . Thanks Jonathan

It is the coolant temperature sensor for the EDC system . regards Jonathan

Does it do it with the engine off , if so it could be your master cylinder . With the engine running the brake pedal can be depressed slowly father than with the engine off but it should not go all the way to the floor . It sound as if a seal/valve is passing in the master cylinder . Regards Jonathan

Please find a picture of the correct way to fit the Pro Comp washers taken from the manufactures brochure as I described in an earlier post . Please check other peoples cars especially those ones that are are still in original condition or modified by a true Professional and you will find them as I have said and as in the picture . Regards Jonathan

img 5618 is correct, RHS , with the cone inwards towards the bushes . Regards Jonathan

The second temperature switch in the thermostat elbow is to switch off the air con when the engine is starting to over heat so the car does not have to work so hard trying to cool the engine's radiator with the warm / hot air that comes from the air con. condensor. The system should hold 900 g +/- 50 g and 180 ml of oil . Regards Jonathan

Yes you are correct with the front exciter ring but on the rear the exciter ring is bolted via very small studs to the rear disc. You do not touch the sensors as they fit in what is left of the hub after you remove the disc.( front and rear ). The sensor has nothing to do with the caliper. For the front just unbolt the two bots holding the caliper on and after unbolting the disc and replacing the disc with a vented one you just bolt on the bigger 110 caliper on disc . I also checked/replaced and repacked the bearings as I went on and used new bolts as the old were corroded.Sorry I forgot to say I actually changed both front and rear discs at the same time as the rear were past it , hence some confusion .quote I did not have to touch the sensors at all . If I remember correctly I only had to transfer the exciter ring from the old disc to the new one, and I think it was for the rear pair only. You probably are only doing the front so no need to worry about it I should have not mentioned the rear at all . Regards Jonathan

I did not have to touch the sensors at all . If I remember correctly I only had to transfer the exciter ring from the old disc to the new one, and I think it was for the rear pair only. Regards Jonathan

Sounds like you have got it sorted , well done , Regards Jonathan

Be carefull if you buy second hand sensors they can be damaged various ways during the removal process if not done carefully. A new one could be your best bet here. You can get them from most supliers on the internet for approx £65 to £95 Make sure you have cleared any codes in the ECU and get the warning light to flash correctly once , and take it for a test drive and double check what faults you get a couple of times, deleting them all before each test. Adam has the manufactures maintenance manual with all the fault codes so you should end up with one or two codes all pointing to the same sensor. The front sensors seem to get damaged more often than the rears , probably due to the steering exposing the wires to stretching( especially on cars with lifted suspension ) and off road hazards ie rocks and sticks. Regards Jonathan

I had a very similar problem and eventually I replaced the PAS pump with a new Genuine one and sorted it. Try bleeding some fluid off the steering box and when someone else is turning the steering wheelback and forth with the engine running. This will bleed any trapped air . If you are getting full pressure you will have a very significant blast of oil out of the bleed nipple if you open it too far . Be very carefull ( or you can get a garage to pressure test the system.) Regards Jonathan

Not sure if my previous post worked so Try this link to a 38 page maintenance manual www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/mm38.pdf Regards Jonathan

Hi , Try this link to a 31 page maintrenance manual from Wabco www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/mm38.pdf If in doubt find a local LR specialist with a good diagnostic tool. Second hand spares are available but make sure you do not buy second hand trouble . Try and use a specialist who has access to second hand parts and make sure he checks it out on your Disco before paying for it. Regards Jonathan

Hi just for clarification this how the warning light works If all is OK the warning light will come on when you switch the ignition to position 2 , after two seconds it will go off for approx half a second and then come back on again and remain on until you drive forward and exceed 5 mph , it will then go out . The system will "initially" check when powered up and tell you such. It'll run a check through the wiring, sensors etc and say all okay... during movement the system will check to see its getting speed signals ( voltage generation ) from the wheel sensors ie a voltage generated above 5 mph. If the light remains on after driving forward you have a current and active fault with your system If the light comes on any time you are driving you have just received a current and active fault . The flash on/off and stay on again when stationary when just switching on confirms you currently have no stored faults in the ECU. If it does NOT flash on and off but stays on you have a fault that is stored in the ABS ECU . Then if the light then goes out when driving it is an old fault that has either corrected it self or been fixed by someone and the fault codes not cleared from the ECU or it is an intermittent fault. If the light does not go out you have a current and active fault and you may not have full ABS operation. I am 100 % sure of this as I have just spent a lot of time researching WABCO C ABS faults as I had a problem very recently on my Disco which I managed to fix . Regards Jonathan

If you are sure you have code 2-1 . If so it means you have an internal ECU fault and need to replace the ECU . Regards Jonathan

The standard 300 tdi thermostat has a temp of 88 deg C stamped on it so you need the fan to switch on slightly greater that that otherwise it will be on all the time.Regards Jonathan

Can some one tell me what is the best value Fault Code Reader for a 1998 300 Tdi Automatic Discovery with EDC , ABS etc , Thanks Jonathan

Try these people they are good yrm metal solutions ltd do a Google search Regards Jonathan

I have had trouble getting my 300 tdi Disco start in the cold mornings so I have just checked the glow plugs . The plug end is 25 mm long and all 4 glow red on the very tip approx 5 mm after 5 seconds but 2 of them are also glowing red along the whole 25 mm length by the time the 15 second timer has expired . Which ones if any are working OK ?? Thanks Jonathan

Brake disc part number for the vented discs I used is FTC 902 , Regard Jonathan

Just double checked my notes and the vented disc number is FTC902 . Regards Jonathan

I have had both a 300 tdi Disco and a V8 , both 1998 ES models and the V8 had vented discs and the Tdi did not , I have done a very succesfull upgrade on my Tdi by changing the single disc to a vented discs and put calipers from a 110 on it as they take larger pads . Just make sure you get the correct calipers ie in my case and I suspect you as well they will be single brake hose .The part numbers I used were LEFT CALIPER STC 1267, RIGHT CALIPER STC 1266 NEW CALIPER BOLTS FTC3375 FITTING KIT STC 8575 and MINTEX PADS BM no. BR3653M , Rov no . SFP000260M Regards Jonathan