Fossy31

This should tell you all you need to know about replacing the compressor....... http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic84165.html?highlight=amk

We have used The Numax CXV24MF for the last couple of years and they are great, as both winching batteries and starting. Tayna are by far the cheapest and most efficient delivery ever. http://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-CXV24MF-P3126.html

Just seen this, much better write up than just looking at photos on FB. When is the gearbox arriving then?

Something like this from a p38 might fit?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Gearbox-Oil-Cooler-4-6-Auto-/180865691649?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a1c6f7001 Will be interested in what you do in the end as i will need to upgrade too. When it works again

You could use a switch or do what i have done on both discos, assuming you dont acctually want the aircon on! I have disconnected the air con compressor by unplugging it, then you can manually turn the fans on by pressing the snowflake button and turning the heater fans on, this puts the aircon fans on constant. If you want to turn them off just turn the heater fan off or press the snoflake button again. Simples!

Tried the actuator is lots of different positions and it still does the same.

Ok thanks guys, I will try adjusting the acctuator tonight and hope its that. Peter, when you say check the switches, do you mean the ones which also control the interior lights? If you do i'm pretty sure that both passenger side and rear switches do not work, and i dont think they ever have, interior lights dont stay on when you leave these doors open??

Hi all, I have tried a search but couldn't come up with the answer, so here goes... Central locking has been working fine for years until I go to the disco after it being sat without a battery for a week, I reconnected the battery and all was fine for a few days until.... Now when I press the fob to lock it, it locks all doors then immediately unlocks all doors and then locks and unlocks continuously until you press the unlock button. If you try and lock the drivers door with the key it would do exactly the same. In the short term so I can actually lock the car I have removed the link from the actuator to the drivers lock and now have to lock all doors manually, obviously the alarm is not armed so I'd quite like to fix it. I was going to buy a new drivers actuator to try, until I saw the price! Does anyone have any ideas what I could try before splashing out on a new actuator? Cheers Foss

As long as there is not a punch up that bloody tree again we'll be fine, if there is we'll leave that till last!

A new dizzy cap and rotor arm and all seems to be well

I have checked and cleaned all wiring to the coil, checked the connection to the afm, take all ht leads of the plugs and had a good look at the ceramic, everything looks ok, tightened all of the screw ends, put all HT leads back on checked the firing order and made sure none of the leads are touching each other or the engine, checked all breathers, checked all sensors, taken air box off to see if a new filter is needed, checked the oil level, everything seems fine. And its still running rough, probably getting worse. I have noticed it is a lot better first thing in the morning when every thing is cold but as it warms up it turns back into the bag of spanners. How would i go about checking the ecu? I dont know wether it could have anything to do with it but i think the torque convertor or gearbox is on its way out? ive been off roading in the past and it was coming to the end of the day trying to climb a gentle slope there was very little drive for the given engine revs, changing the oil and filter in the box helped but its on my list of things to do. Thinking now about changing the coil, dizzy cap and rotor arm to see if they help.

Thanks all, I will try the simplest and cheapest items first and report back how i get on. Its single point lpg btw. I think the 'gunson's flashtest' looks like a very hand tool to have in the V8 tool kit, may have to invest in one of those.

Hi all, Since the weekend and changing the oil, my disco 1 V8 has become rough( struggeling to pick up, sounds like its on about 3 or 5) when squeezing the throttle hard in park and seems ok with a slow squeeze. However under load it is apparent at low revs particullarly after coasting in traffic and then accelerating again. It seems to be apparent on both LPG and Petrol but much worse on LPG. This is steering me towards an electrical issue, as i know how the ignition system need to be in tip top condition for LPG. I have magnecor leads and NGK spark plugs which were changed about 4000 miles ago. I have cleaned the contacts up on the dizzy and the rotor arm but its still apparent. I have checked the vacum between the dizzy and plenum and it is working fine? Can any one suggest anything i should be looking at or what besides the rotor arm and dizzy cap i should change? Any ideas why its started to occur after an oil change? Cheers, Foss

Problem solved, Im checked them first but somehow managed to miss a fuse had blown. All that work for a bl**dy fuse! oh well at least i learnt my sipider has been bypassed!

After looking again at the wire coming into the plug, 3 pairs were joined so as to bypass it already! and yep it starts without the spider in so it definately aint that. Does anyone have any ideas where to look next?

All other ignition switched items seem to function except the fog lights? could this be connected? It is indeed EFI, even more confusingly it worked on petrol up untill friday when it just died on petrol, luckily i managed to have enough gas to limp to a station and fill up so now i can only start and run on gas.

As the title suggests im having problems with the electrics on my truck. The engine will crank over smoothly but there is not 12v's getting to the coil, fuel pump and lpg solenoids. I have researched this and thought it was the spider unit, took the dash apart and removed it (acctually pretty easy to get too) one leg was burn out but there were no tracks coming away from it, anyway resoldered all the joints as suggested in the tech archive post, but to no avail, it still won't start. I have been having this prob for a week and have been getting around it by putting a switched 12v feed to the coil but i dont want this permenatly. Any ideas would be greatfully recieved. Regards Fossy

Cheers guys, in the end i managed to find a guy in Leicester who worked for a rad making company in the day and recored radiators in his spare time. He even had one hed already done so it was straight exchange job in the end, and all for the sum total of £50 with 3 months warrenty, bargain or what! Already done about 300 miles on it and its loads better!

Hi all, I need to buy a new rad for my 1997 V8 disco with autobox as my old rad has got a big hole in it, even rad weld has failed to plug this one I am sure i read on a forum sometime ago about being able to get a thicker cored radiator?? Just wondered if anyone knew anything about it or where i could find one? Cheers Fossy

I had an inckling that was going to be the answer but wasn't 100% so thanks for confirming it.

Hi all, I noticed i had a coolant leak on my 3.5 V8 last week and it looked like it was coming from the water pump gasket, so removed the water pump cleaned up the faces and resealed the pump, however its still leaking. After closer inspection it appears to be coming from a hole (which is cast into the water pump housing) on the under side of the shaft of the water pump, ill try to post a photo later. Can anyone shed any light as to why it is coming from here and what i need to do to stop it leaking, my mot is due on monday so need to get it sorted asap. Cheers Foss