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PoddyP

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by PoddyP

  1. ha ha, good advice for sure guys.... I was probably hoping for some divine answer that would put a smile on my face, one way or another... ah well, given the fact I've no spare time anyway, I think I'll sell it as is, and definitely sell the spares separately thanks for the replies
  2. My 300Tdi (S reg) has finally been beaten by the Mot Man....or eaten by the rust bug... don't know which is worse really. Anyway, I'm looking to sell it as it's been well looked after over the years I've had it, it's only done 176,00 miles and I put a Turner Eng. head on it no more 20,000 miles ago as the original cracked. I put heavy duty springs and shocks on it and polybushed it when I got it about 6 years ago and it's got bf goodrich all terrains, two of which have a reasonable amount of wear before needing to be replaced. I did some welding on it last year for the MOT on the rear wheel arches and the left chassis where there was a hole, but this year it got a load of advisories and 4 or 5 necessary places where welding was needed. It probably really needs replacement sills and wheel arches. From what I can see, the body mounts are still in good nick so if someone was prepared to put the effort in, it could still be a road going vehicle. I'm too old and knackered to be bothered with it anymore so I bought a Td5.... It starts first time every time, even without waiting for the glow plugs to warm things up. I have loads of spares with it, alternators (2) , a radiator (brand new) filters galore, seals coming out of my ears, swivel ball repair kit, wheel bearings etc etc. I've also just serviced it (oil, filters, gearbox oil, transfer box oil and rear diff oil). Just had a new heated screen fitted as well!. Right, if you've managed to wade through that lot, here's the question, would it be worth more to try and sell it as is, or would I be better off scrapping it and selling off the good parts? answers on a postcard to..... only joking.... seriously, any advice would be appreciated... one way or another, it has to go!!
  3. Well, in the end it turned out that the head was indeed cracked, a fair bit of rust on two of the head bolts makes me think that was the case, and no sign of any obvious damage to the head gasket. I had already bought a new head from Turner's, so I cleaned everything up and popped the new head on, one nice sunny day a couple of weeks ago. Trouble was that by the time I had finished it was dark and freezing cold. Charged the battery overnight, stuck it back in, bled the diesel through and turned the key, bingo, problem solved. In response to your comment Jim, the compression tester was a brand new one with a calibration certificate. The manual I have also states that there is no need to provide a measurement but instead, it is the difference between the readings that is important. I would be interested to know if you measured the compression again after you had done all the work to your engine and what those readings were?
  4. Took the head off today (finally), head gasket showed no sign of breaching to any of the cooling ports and appeared intact. cleaned the surface of the head and studied it carefully under a strong light and could not see any visible signs of a crack. No sign of water ingress to any of the bores. I can only assume that the head is indeed cracked in a place, and, probably so small that it is not visible to the naked eye. Does this seem to be a reasonable assumption that anyone would agree with? thanks in advance for any help.
  5. Hi Bogmonster, I did change the cap on the header tank, forgot to mention that. I was thinking about just taking the head off as per your suggestion because it is the only logical thing to do next. thanks for the reply and the information. Once I've done this, I will post the outcome on here. thanks again.
  6. I'm struggling to diagnose a problem with my 300tdi. I'ts done 160,000 miles and this year I've been having a right old carry on with cooling problems. I've gone through two water pumps and three thermostats and I finally thought I'd fixed it after taking the whole cooling system apart, back flushing radiator etc, no blockages in heater matrix, all appeared ok. Drove to work next day (22miles) and lost most of the coolant on the way there throught the vent on the reservoir cap. Same thing on way home. During this period of problems, the engine did get very hot on at least two occasions and I am now thinking that I have either a head gasket problem or a cracked head as the cooling system has far too much pressure and is just ejecting the fluid. So, did a compression test today to see if I could diagnose the problem myself and am struggling to interpret the results, because, according to the Haynes manual, a difference of up to 70psi between cylinders is acceptable. starting at the front of the block, cylinder 1 gave a reading of 25 bar/386psi number 2 gave the same reading. number 3 read 28 bar/432psinumber 4 read 24bar/371psi Now, I've never been great at maths but according to my calculations, the biggest difference is 61psi between 3 and 4 and the difference between 3 and 2 is 57psi. The specs in the manual state up to 70 psi difference is acceptable, so this is where I am struggling because there is definitely a problem somewhere?? I would very much appreciate any feedback from anyone who has either experienced this or who may be able to help me pinpoint the problem. thanks for reading...........................................
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