mick the digger!

I've this set up on a g wagen and it works fantastic, I've never had a issue with muck getting it the tube. I remove the rope after most events to clean it, and all though I've never had to remove or replace it while stuck after breakinging it, there is no reason as to why I can't.

Can you still not use a cheap wireless remote to trigger a relay which in turn energised the coil on the solenoid valve or am I missing something?

I had a l322 for nearly 5 years and used a faultmate fcr https://blackbox-solutions.com/products.html Worked great and done everything I wanted from it as a code reader. I've also used a snapon modius to re calibrate the air suspension and although is a fantastic bit of kit it's not something to just leave in the glove box 'just in case'.

I always just use standard tinners, I'm assuming if tinned with white spirt it would take longer to go of as it doesn't evaporate as fast as tinners?

Another vote for rustoleum combicolour I've sprayed all sorts with it, even rollered it onto garage in a camper with hardboard covered walls got a great finish on it with a roller and it's hard wearing an easy to wipe clean.

I'd have a interest in a kit, please keep me informed.

I've delt with them a bit over the last few years, always found them ok untill the last time. Had a part they supplied fail 4 months later, rang them to find out about a warrenty claim, and I was told I'd have to return the old one fair enough. But as I didn't want the vehicle off the road to return the old one and wait for it be sent back to there supplier for a warrenty claim I asked could they send out a replacement straight away, I was told the best thing to do was to order one on line, fair enough I thought... But when I asked would it be sent out straight away I was told there were 400 orders in front of me and would take 'a few days to be dispatched' When I pointed out to the gentleman that as this was a replacement part for one they had supplied that has failed in four months could they not send it out any quicker... His response was 'there is nothing I can do about it' Very disappointed as it then took over a week to arrive. To the OP i very much believe if you can't contact a company before you give them money, what chance have you after you have if you have an issue.

Why not just score it with a grinder and give it a crack of a hammer and chisel or have I missed something?

Just to point out for anyone looking for a pump the 606 non turbo only has a mechanical pump in a w124 and these are quite rare having only been produced from 93 to 95 and are also the most desirable pump rs 203 having a bigger camshaft and bearings. All w210 from 95 on (twin headlight model) non turbo or turbo are ecu controlled.

Another vote for a 606, they are light .. And when the edc pump is swaped for a pump form its earlier version the 603 it's mechanical. To make 200bhp it will need the elements from the orginal pump swapping and anything much more and it will need a bigger turbo as the orginal is very small buts they are great low down because of this.

Only the early non turbo cars got a manual option with 606. Lots of options too run the 722.6 electrionic auto box stand alone as there also used in gm Chrysler vehicles on the US. I bought a stand alone plug and play ecu to run one in a G Wagen from a guy in Denmark for around €500 new, very similar too compushift.

Not sure about your exact model of valve, but generally solenoid just bolts onto the back of a valve block, it MAY be cheaper to fit a cetop, but then you will loose your manual control. What's it for, and more importantly what's you flow rate?

From what I can see from google images they don't have the lip like on the 500220, looking forward to pictures to clarify. Also the 500220 has a 16mm bolt hole.

Is that a RR sport balljoint? Can you post a picture of them? Who did you get them from and what cost?

No as there a balljoint the centre is free to rotate. Yes a polybush would be fine for a one link....but in my view a ball joint is better. Yes on the back of a l322 or 5 series there is a cir clip on the other side as it will see side loads in this configuration. I machined the lip of mine and just pressed them in to a sleeve ther will only really ever see compression or tension in a link never really side loads.