Macker

Thanks. And yes I'm sure it's a crack, it's not part of the casting.

I'm about to do a head gasket and a few other things on my 200tdi, and I noticed a small crack just behind one of the flywheel housing bolt holes. It's about 3mm long, in a straight line. It's visible in the picture. I can feel the crack when running a finger over it. I'm wondering if it's going to be a problem, and if so, is it possible to fix. I'm also not sure if it's particularly close to any water or oil passages. Any help would be appreciated!

I should have mentioned that there will be other modifications along with the exhaust. While upstream of the turbo you do want as much velocity as possible, downstream of the turbo the main objective is to have the least amount of backpressure possible. The small diameter of the exhaust manifold keeps velocity high, and my slightly larger exhaust post turbo won't hurt the efficiency of the engine, however there won't be much gains going from a 2.5 to 3" at the power levels I will be runing. But if nothing else I'll get a little more sound out of it, which personally I would enjoy. I did consider just using a lhd pas box, but what I decided I will be doing is basically building a defender, and building it on a coil rolling chassis I have at my disposal. This way I don't have to touch the series (no grumbling necessary) and it can stay a series, I'll just be taking the 200tdi. If I had more money, I would leave the tdi in the series, with the series box/transfer and just put an overdrive on it and call it good. After I build the coiler then I should have some money to put an engine back in the series and enjoy it as a series. The truck in question will be my daily driver, so I will save the series for the weekends. Here there are very few defenders, none of which came with a tdi unless its and older imported 90. So beleive it or not, I'd much prefer a tdi over a v8, having had many v8 vehicles already. Thanks for the advice.

Thanks for the response! I think I have all of those sorted out, just making sure I haven't forgotten anything. -When I first got my truck, it was right hand drive with the power steering on it, (and the 200tdi in it already) so it had a non-stock crossmember just behind the bumper, and the stock one removed. But then I replaced the frame, but I should be able to modify it easy -I have the front defender grille, just need to find myself a bonnet. -New mounts on the chassis, that shouldn't be too bad I did have to make the ones it currently has -New exhaust, been looking forward to being able to run a full 3" exhaust! Can weld that up -Throttle cable should be relatively easy -Yes I'll be running an Lt230, I would prefer it over a series transfer, and I'll have to fab some mounts and a crossmember -For my axles I currently am running Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 axles, so these are CV jointed already. -Propshafts will have to be made up, I'm currently running custom props that have the 1310 Land Rover U joint on one end and a 4 bolt toyota flange on the other to adapt the land rover output to the toyota differential. There was no clearance in the front with the series tranfer, but now with the lt230 I think I will have front/rear Double cardon (cv style) props so those will have to be made the proper length. -Still have my rhd hand brake so that should bolt back up. -I'll have to get a new transmission tunnel, and modify my floor pans. I realize it's alot of work, but I love the tdi; just wish I had another gear so I can go over 60mph! I had been daily driving the truck before I pulled it into the garage for dissasemble, so my goal is a nice daily driver. Instead of trying to find an overdrive for the series box, I would be a lot happier with a newer main and transfer box, so I think I will go for it. I do have a disco rolling chassis at my disposal, so since I'm doing all this work i've thought of building it on the coil frame. I wish I were able to afford a defender, but the only ones we have here are either NAS style ($$$), 1985 and older 90's which are either rusted and need a lot of work or they are in good shape and again they are expensive. Plus it is very difficult to get a truck registered as a TDI here in California, so one way to do it is to have a Smog exempt title from 1975 or older truck, which is what my series is. So it will be more legal than just taking a d90 and putting a tdi in it. I appreciate the advice hopefully i'm not missing anything!

Hello, I've got a series 3 88 hybrid with a 200tdi in it. It still has the original series gearbox/transfer and I want to put a 5 speed in it. I know I can get a short bellhousing R380 from Ashcroft, but since I'm in the US it will be quite expensive for me. I can obtain a defender r380 for a significantly lesser amount. My question is, has anyone run a non short bellhousing defender r380 and moved the engine forward to accommodate for the longer gearbox? When I bought my truck, it was right hand drive. I had to replace the frame, and the replacement was setup for left hand drive with the non power steering setup already on it, so I've been running that. Now I want to convert it back to right hand drive to make use of my power steering setup that will go back on easily. (and so I can put my dash back on !) I also will be putting on a defender bonnet/grille, which will free up some space. Since my right hand power steering pump isn't mounted to the frame yet, it's hard to say if the engine/injection pump will clear the power steering pump. Can anyone offer any fitment advice? I am a poor college student so I'm hoping to find the cheapest way to get my truck where I want it. Thanks for any help!

I've done a compression test, Here are the results: Cyl 1: 368psi Cyl 2: 355.5 Cyl 3: 334.5 Cyl 4: 318 I have oil leakage at the back of the head, and I can hear a ticking/feel air leaking at the headgasket at the rear. I plan on doing a new headgasket, and was I was planning on doing the leakdown test to help me decide if I should do anything else while I was in there. The motor runs well and doesn't really smoke excessively. Any other advice would be appreciated..

I'm looking to do a leakdown test on my 200tdi and haven't seen any instructions on how to do it. I plan on getting a leakdown tester with two gauges and a regulator, and to use the glowplug adapter I have from a compression testing kit. I have a few questions, should the test be carried out while the engine is warm? What's an easy way to make sure the enine is at Tdc? What's an acceptable ammount of leakage? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks. Does anyone happen to know exactly how much longer the 90 side panels are vs. the series? I'm not quite to the point of assembling all the parts or I could just measure.

Hello, I'm currently building a series 3 88/defender hybrid (in the US), and obtained a nearly complete 90 SW roof, missing the side panels. What I'm trying to do is make use of a set of series side panels and modify them to fit the 90 roof. I have a 90 roof panel, 90 sliding side windows, and a rear liftgate. It appears that since the 90 windows are larger than the series, I can remove the series windows, cut the opening to fit the 90 windows, and rivet them in. Is it this simple? I've seen this done in pictures, but haven't heard of anyone doing it. I was also hoping to extend them a number of inches to fit the 90's longer roof. Has anyone done this? I'd assume probably not, because i'm sure 90 side panels are a dime a dozen over there, but here they are hard to come by, and would likely have to be shipped, so this could cost a small fortune. Does anyone have any advice/info for me? Thanks for any responses! Mack

Seems we often have different names for the same stuff! My only worry was that the fit around the windshield may not be very great looking and that the relatively inexpensive hoods won't last forever. There's a company badger coachworks (http://badgercoachworks.com/index_files/Page682.htm) that makes a canvas cab but i'm afraid I might not be able to afford one. Plus the off-the-shelf half cab was made for the NAS ST cage which I don't have. Is yours the all wheel or exmoor?

Searching didn't quite get me the answers I was looking for, I would like a half cab pickup hood for my series hybrid. I have a S3 88 and a 2007 defender windscreen i'd like to make use of. I've seen the exmoor and the all wheel trim 90 half cabs. I've been told they are both decent quality, does anyone have any better pictures besides the ones on their site? Also how well they fit/hold up? I'm wondering if there is any reason why I couldn't use a 90 extended hood from either exmoor or all wheel to use on my series with the 90 screen. Obviously i'll have to buy the over door panels, and the header rail. any other problems I'll run into? Right now I have an exmoor canvas on my series so I have the hood stick set, and I will be making a full rollcage for it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I was thinking the same thing, just thought I'd see if I could find a cheap one first. Found a new one for 125 us here in the states, which is definitely cheaper..

that was the part number I couldn't seem to come up with. Thanks!

I have an '80 series 3, and am sort of confused. Do I have a smith's heater? I'm looking for a blower motor for left hand drive. Thought about trying to modify my right hand drive one, but mine is rusted so that's a no-go. Found an overpriced blower motor on a US website, says it's a series 3 "smiths" blower motor, wasn't sure if that was the right one or not. Can anyone recommend a place to find one? I check ebay etc. occasionally but haven't had luck yet. Thanks

Hello, had a leaky clutch master cylinder on my series 3. Was leaking from the plunger and where the clutch pipe screws into the master. So I bought a new master cylinder, no more leaks from the plunger. I fitted a new copper washer and it still leaks from this fitting. The block that connects the pipe to the master was a bit rusty on the surface but I figured it'd be OK, could this be why it's still leaking? Any tips on how to get it to stop? This is the piece in question, I was hesitant to order a new on as it's expensive! http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1014-adapter-clutch-master-cylinder.aspx leaked clutch fluid on my freshly painted footwell! Thanks