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TS888

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    A Yank in Leics
  1. Start with this axle Then get bearings, and a piece of DOM for a pivot. Job done, probably under 30 quid all in.
  2. Well, fudge. I suppose the gauge originated in a 200TDi vehicle then. I'd think the sender would work, as you say just need an appropriate adapter, and I suppose a T to keep the warning light sender. Thanks!
  3. Can anyone confirm P/N PRC4043 is the correct sender for the factory oil pressure gauge? I tried searching, but have had no luck finding a P/N. I came up with that one from the Microcat and various parts seller websites, but I can't find a conclusive reference to the 300TDi. Many thanks!
  4. All you really need is the tunnel "flange" from the 300 seatbox, so if you old one is in good nick, a rusty one will provide the pieces you need. Drill out the spot welds, attache the flange to your seatbox with adhesive and rivets. Trim out your seatbox to match the tunnel, job done. Also, if you don't need a middle seat, the hand brake form a RRC can be used on top of the seat box, gives much needed ankle room.
  5. Are the Delphi ones or Bearmach OK, or is genuine the only way to go here?
  6. But if you do as Dyna VT did and create a new harness for the headlamps with relays and properly sized wire, your lights will be a lot brighter.
  7. I don't think you'd notice much if any difference in power with a 300TDi. For other engines -- as the saying goes, there's no substitute for cubic inches...
  8. You could probably pit a double DIN in a MudUK dash console. Double din -- that's a pretty good description of the noise level inside the average Defender....
  9. I would expect more problems with solder on something semi-rigid, like a circuit board, from vibration and temperature contraction/expansion of unlike materials. Failed solder joints are a fairly common problem in older ECU's for this reason. I've never heard of problems with soldered wire connections.
  10. I did this a few months back, and I soldered and shrink wrapped. It's not that many wires, you'll get it right.
  11. There's a screw on the back of the lock, it can be removed without taking the latch mechanism out of the door. It has a locking tab washer on it so you have to press the tabs down with a srewdriver, then I believe the screw is an 8mm hex head. And be aware -- there are two ball bearings that ride in grooves on top of the lock cylinder, and if you lose them the lock doesn't work!
  12. Having replaced a headlamp panel recently with the wing on, I think putting the entire wing together and installing it as an assembly would be the best path. Or so my scraped knuckles and scratched arms tell me...
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