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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. Millions of brushes on eBay, I'd assume they're going to be common to a load of other stuff of the era too... a quick search turned up these: Land-Rover-Series-2A-3-Starter-Motor-Carbon-Brush-Kit-AAU1405 Which have a wedgey shape to them and are LR parts.
  2. I think Axminster sell the little pyramids.
  3. Oddly, ours is in the archive but the scan of the record card doesn't quite tally and the colour (NATO Green IRR) is in the spreadsheet but not listed / secret in the website.
  4. Cebora is a good make, as long as it's single-phase and working that should be a good unit, spares should be available etc.
  5. Yeah I was surprised how much wheel spin is allowed before it gets a grip, although I wonder if it would be different if it wasn't the "all-or-nothing" tarmac/roller setup? Given the TR system knows absolutely loads about what's going on, it knows it's basically flat & level on tarmac so is probably outside its normal behaviour - they surely anticipated the "driver left TR in sand mode and then drove home on tarmac" scenario...
  6. If you find one that's a way away it might be worth asking if anyone can forum-relay the unit up to you?
  7. You used to be able to get wedges that correct the angle without too much lifting of the axle. Sure someone with a mill could knock something up.
  8. Thought a few might find this useful: https://ntrs.nasa.gov/search.jsp?R=19900009424 Click "view document" for a PDF download.
  9. Thanks @hurbie, didn't know about that list and found our ambulance on it!
  10. I suspect doing this in a flat tarmac car-park with rollers doesn't fully/properly demonstrate its behaviour.
  11. Our 127 has the genuine spring-loaded bonnet hooks, much nicer than pins IMHO. Part numbers 300693 & 300691, hopefully you can find them cheaper than this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281925384898
  12. This just in, actual footage of Red90 in action: Only time I've lowered pressures was when I had a nail in my tyre, but then I've never driven anywhere hard
  13. I'd have suggested anywhere that repairs truck starters & alternators, used to be a place near me that did it, just an old chap in a shed but did a great job for very little money.
  14. Which will likely have paid for itself after the 1st job or two... and if not you can sell it again without losing much unless you've blown it up somehow
  15. Dinitrol is good stuff, easy enough to apply (just spray it) but it WILL go everywhere, all over you and anything in range of the breeze so be careful where you do it & what you do it near. A stout wire brush to remove any loose rust is a good idea, the SPID type ones on eBay are cheap and effective. That and a damn good pressure-washing underneath to remove any dirt etc., might be worth paying a local outfit to do it - places that prepare HGV's for MOT are often set up to steam-clean the hell out of things in preparation as taking a dumper truck for MOT with a year's mud crusted underneath is a surefire failure. Eye protection is essential (rust or paint in the eye isn't fun, ask me how I know) and some sort of coverall is a really good idea, the stuff can drift into your hair etc. and really doesn't come off easily. For touching up chassis black, Corroless chassis paint with glass reinforcement is damn good, Arc-Rite on eBay sell it. Edit: Dinitrol UK have an eBay shop too, worth a look.
  16. No-one was born knowing how an engine works any more than anyone was born being able to program... my point is it's easier than ever to learn. Also, people are solving problems faster and cheaper than ever - you don't need to invent your own ECU every time any more than you need to reinvent an engine if your dies, open-source projects like Megasquirt or Speeduino pop up when a few people want to solve the same problem. The same is happening for things like shift controllers, the OBD / CANbus is getting more and more attention. @Cynic-al is right that manufacturers don't always provide much info, often because they don't own the contents of the ECU either (it'll belong to Bosch or Denso etc.) but at the end of the day all the ECU's connect to some physical thing - an actuator, a sensor, etc. - that does a job, and if you know what it's supposed to do you can make it do it.
  17. Nice, that's a decent amount of space to fill with junk valuable treasure
  18. Yeah we're going to try and avoid the TDF shenanigans. Would be good to see a bit of it, but the hassle of trying to get near it / battling the uber-fans for space doesn't appeal.
  19. More a lack of understanding of electronics - what was made can be re-made, devices like the Raspberry Pi are opening the field up, making a custom PCB is cheaper than ever, the tools are more accessible than they've ever been but it's outside the knowledge of most old-school workshops. It's like saying "oh you can't get a new cylinder head for that anywhere at any price" - yes you can, someone somewhere will happily whittle one from billet with a CNC machine if you're willing to pay for it, but your local garage will just shrug and say you can't get them and the car is scrap.
  20. Urchfab on Youtube has some pretty good welding tutorials.
  21. We won't be going off-road in the ambulance, it shakes the beer up but if there's a source of info on alpine passes etc. being open/closed that would be useful.
  22. I swear that damn bonnet gets worse every picture I see
  23. "Which welder" has been covered here before, as Bowie says used industrial kit can be a better bet than flimsier new "hobby" kit. As a minimum you want a Euro torch and ready for a gas bottle. 0.8mm wire feeds easier than the 0.6 a lot come with.
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