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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. Current Top Gear magazine have a feature on the Defender, they seem to like it well enough.
  2. Heavy-duty self-levelling latex screed is only ~£30 a bag and leaves a beautifully smooth surface - even nicer if you epoxy paint it too. Best thing I ever did in my garage!
  3. It does OK, was never supposed to be an articulation monster - I've got Gon2Far front mounts (visible here) but keep forgetting to unlock them The length of the shocks was mostly down to what could fit in the available space and work with the Volvos - the rear mounts give you space for ~14" of shock travel and using turrets on the front allowed it to be the same both ends, although the shorter front leaves on Series are the limiting factor - I think @ToyRoverlander has extended his front hangers to fit rears on the front or possible some other spring (Transit?).
  4. I'll remember that - friends live just outside Veliko Tarnovo in a village in the hills and we're keen to do a road-trip over to see them one of these years
  5. Volvo front suspension, standard mounts are welded to the axle casing; You can see it nearest the camera here (no shock fitted): Volvo rear suspension - the shock mount (28) bolts to the bottom of the portal box; This sort of shows the tub - the covers are a lot bigger than the really need to be;
  6. That does sound weak, although the VCU gets weaker in cold temperatures as it relies on the slip heating the fluid and locking. By contrast, mine nearly locked solid in the Bosnian summer (40+ degC). I'm not sure what, if anything, you can do about it. Also, where in Bulgaria are you? It's a lovely country and I really want to go back, maybe even to do some off-roading.
  7. I don't really see how that's any more relevant than any other part of a modified vehicle failing? Tonnes of stuff has UJ's in the front, it's not any more or less safe, just that CV's give smoother feel through the steering.
  8. Doing nothing is also an option, it's not critical. I believe @Jon White runs full-time 4x4 on Series axles with no problem.
  9. But we are planning some more local stuff - a weekend in the west country .
  10. Nah, I can confirm that trailer is cursed - I've TWICE arrived home with a vehicle on a flatbed and that trailer on 3 wheels because a bearing went... once was just after having it serviced too!
  11. Nope, didn't imagine it - from "Land Rover File 65th Anniversary Edition" by Eric Dymock;
  12. Booking close at midnight tonight - looks like a good turnout so far which is bl**dy typical I've gotta miss it! Also Miketomcat has been instructed to sell all the club mugs at knock-down prices to clear some space in the trailer
  13. Just to throw the Labrador into the squirrel enclosure; If you're not doing many miles a V8 would make it far nicer to drive at the expense of some fuel money. For an '86 110 it would've been a factory option. Something 3.9 or bigger with EFi would haul a 110 around in a low-stress manner and probably even nudge 20mpg if you are reserved... might even put a smile on your face too
  14. Surely modded or not is nothing to do with anything... the argument is whether the height barrier is up to scratch, and from the sound of it a lawyer could probably argue quite reasonably that if there's an unexpectedly low obstruction at the exit, being able to breeze gaily under the entrance height barrier is somewhat less than the minimum number of f**cks given. At best it's a very poor design - it shouldn't be possible to drive into somewhere you can't get out of. An attendant waving you in might also be considered as a mark against the council, if they know there's a point that's lower than the barrier you might expect him to flag you down or run over with a tape measure.
  15. ^ This may be your best hope - politely tell them that you don't really want to get lawyers/insurance involved and you might just go away for a small amount to cover your time & materials for banging the dents out & dusting some paint over the top.
  16. Jeebus Ross - those tools are too clean & organised, you need to crack on and get them looking a bit used!
  17. As others have said, most soap (esp. dishwasher stuff) is alkali and dishwasher powder/tabs can contain abrasive, so beware of the effect especially on ali parts - but steel parts may come out covered in a fine coat of rust! Just blasting stuff on the hot wash with no soap/salt can move a lot of gunk so I'd say it's worth a shot. Might be worth asking @Hybrid_From_Hell as I'm sure he uses an old dishwasher to clean diffs.
  18. ^ This, I've had a bearing melt on my 1st Freelander, which was caused by the release arm being partly seized and never fully releasing pressure, so the bearing was under pressure all the time. I've also had a bearing fail after deep wading, muddy/sandy water got into the bellhousing and that was that - although the bearing waited until I got half way to Russia before it actually failed The alu ones will stop this melting failure mode but won't fix the underlying issue - if the bearing's going to die it's going to die.
  19. Lots of reasons for relays - the main thing is you can put all the high-current stuff in one or two boxes full of relays & fuses with a nice big battery feed and then the switches can all have skinny wires, only have to take low current, and you can use small cheap transistors in your ECU to switch things on & off - although the kick back from the relay coil will kill small transistors without a bit of extra protection. Relays will put up with a lot more than transistors which will go pop faster than a fuse can. You can seal relays, you can easily decide which ones are active by switching the power/ground wire to the coils (low current) from another relay or switch rather than having one switch that turns the main battery feed for multiple circuits on/off. Also f**ckups in design can be corrected by simply swapping a relay part number - swap a normally-open for a normally-closed, add a feed you forgot you needed by going from a 4 to a 5-terminal relay (Flapper EFI I'm looking at you again)... @Snagger - the book says it's true and ISTR it's the official LR History book Edit: George you have a PM with a contact.
  20. It's tight on an 88 but most people use a later 5-speed box and LT230 these days as they're cheap and available, not to mention stronger and quieter and with better ratios...
  21. According to the big book of Land Rover history, the first P38's were so bad that the many of the dealers who attended the launch event had to be flatbed-taxi'd home supposedly the electrics were mostly lifted from the top-flight Rover 800 and shoe-horned into the P38 without enough thought / R&D... Shame as most stuff on P38's is fixable if you stop to understand how it works - and I think the BECM's are almost amateur-repairable in many cases as it's often only a burnt out transistor that fails to operate a relay or somesuch.
  22. I believe there is an earlier version 'DX' that had some known issue (which ISTR can be fixed) and the later 'DS' ones are fairly bulletproof... although I thought I saw Britpart selling them & the spares in the UK so I wonder if there's been some cost-cutting somewhere and some (ahem) less than perfect parts may have slipped into the system?
  23. The earlier 3-speed TF727 was a transatlantic box too, although supposedly a weaker version... lot of people rated them higher strength-wise than the ZF, and I think you could uprate them with yank bits easily enough. Heard a rumour that the original 4WD system was a descendent of the Ferguson Formula system (as seen on Jensen FF) and this badge I spotted on a 2-door certainly suggests it might be... yes I'm that sad; Fun fact on the flapper EFI - the special red "relay" isn't a relay but contains a couple of diodes and things they forgot to put into the ECU. Not sure when they deleted the hand-crank hole in the front bumper but it's got to be one of the last cars to feature it!
  24. Geeky trivia about the Range Rover and Rover V8... how long have you got???
  25. If you do the clutch it's worth buying a reinforced fork or welding a piece on the back where the clutch rod pushes as they are known to push through and fail. Avoid Britpart parts, they are a lottery at best. Swivels - if one breaks you can replace one, they don't need to be done in pairs. Tyres: 1. Remove the wheel spacers, they just put more stress on wheel bearings and are an extra thing that can fail, especially on rough roads. 2. Sizes up to ~33" diameter are not too bad, and it completely depends on your driving style - some people can break anything! 3. It depends what sort of terrain you are driving - narrow tyres will cut down through soft mud or snow to the hard ground below... but only if there IS some hard ground below! BFG Mud Terrain are reckoned to be about the best all-rounder and will last for a long time.
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