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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. BIP373: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143070295540 Although TBH the coils with built-in ignitors are a far nicer prospect as the ECU only needs low level 5v trigger outputs rather than handling all the high currents & associated noise and spikes that goes with direct coil drivers. Bosch do make some external coil driver modules for certain models and motorsport, they're another way. Whatever you do, if your ECU is currently built for EDIS it'll need internal mods to suit your chosen setup.
  2. 1. Is it really overheating or is the gauge/sender/wiring playing up? 2. Check the simple & cheap stuff: stuck thermostat, low coolant, slipping belt IR thermometers or temperature labels are your friends;
  3. @deep it's a good point, but it's still better than if they'd bulldozed it to build a coal-fired plant there... electric's gotta come from somewhere and I'd rather have a wind turbine in my back garden than a traditional power station.
  4. Martin at www.rrpartsltd.co.uk might have one but postage would be killer.
  5. That's not silly, a lot of people just want "more numbers", but a nicely built 3.5 is no bad thing if originality is important. Ian ( @Bull Bar Cowboy ) did an awesome rebuild on his 3.9 in stunning detail, it should be in the technical archive somewhere. Not the most powerful V8 ever built but smooth as a sewing machine and just generally lovely.
  6. Yes but your street doesn't have an infinite supply, you'd be surprised how quickly the local transformer trips out if everyone comes home & plugs their EV in at 6pm.
  7. Playing devil's avocado... if you're spending £1k+ on an old 3.5 why not buy an old 4.6 P38 and just drop that lump in? It's got, like, way more of everything and all the upgrades (cross-bolted mains, better oil pump, fully serpentine belts).
  8. Yeah but tidy though it looks I've not been convinced they really know what they're doing, much like the days of LPG installers - the motor & controller are easy but whipping a battery pack or three out of a crashed Tesla and hooking it up to whatever is a recipe for a large unextinguishable fire - there's a reason Tesla's battery packs contain massively complex electronics, the reason is "preventing flaming death" and even then it doesn't always work, never mind cobbling bits of it about without the full info (which Tesla are very reluctant to release even basic service manuals).
  9. Only if they're compatible - TBH electric motors are not the hard problem, the battery is likely to be the biggest expense by a long way for a long time, and I can well imagine specific controllers being tied to specific battery packs, not without good reason either until batteries get a lot safer.
  10. Where's the story on silicone electrodes then? I know there's been recent news about glass electrolyte but that's ~3yrs away if you believe the article. What it does make me wonder is if the current generation of EV's are going to be rendered obsolete overnight when a breakthrough like this hits the market, your lithium-ion powered Tesla suddenly worthless like last-year's iPhone when the new one comes out
  11. OK mister, who are you and what have you done with snagger?
  12. Aye, if it was anything other than a 3.5 it might be worth top-hatting, but a 3.5 should be fine and also is not really worth spending lots on - if you want more power just fit a 4.6 @Snagger a bunch of us actually bumped into Mark (Evans?) at the London To Brighton just after the series aired, he'd brought the truck with him and we were chatting about it (in the p***ing rain), he's a genuine guy and when I ribbed him about the bling suspension bits he basically said it wasn't really his choice, Scrapiron Racing basically made him / the production company such a good offer he couldn't refuse it. Also, as the truck had to be sold to fund the programme (which he was quite cut up about) it was more about creating the "best" spec to make it sellable.
  13. The easy option is Rover V8 + gearbox + LT230 from a Range Rover or Discovery, that sort of conversion has been written about here many times for Defender and Series. It depends on your budget, your abilities, what you want the vehicle to do, and where in the world you are as some places it's easier or harder to source different engines etc.
  14. Martin at www.rrpartsltd.co.uk will have one. @Snagger OK what are you after eh?
  15. Who's selling the kit and who makes the parts? That could be a £1000 pile of scrap metal if it's all "aftermarket" cack. Also, unless you're determined to do a money-no-object rebuild I'd question the need to replace pistons and valves, and I'd think twice about rockers and arms too - they're not common wear parts on the RV8, it's the cam & lifters & pushrods, oil pump, seals & gaskets. Also I'd throw a better cam in, they're not expensive and the stump-puller sorts (extra low torque) make a useful difference to driveability.
  16. My 1st conversion was a 3.9 with SD1 flywheel and it was a bit too easy to stall, especially off-road, compared to a regular V8 - hard to describe but the stall point was not where you expected it to be given how torquey the engine was.
  17. The Rivian looks pretty good, but all EV's suffer the same problems - batteries still suck, no matter how much they spin it they still take far too long to charge, don't hold enough, and the current crop have a propensity to turn into an unextinguishable metal fire if something goes wrong. I'm all for electric being the future but right now it's the emperor's new clothes.
  18. Don't see why not, they're compact and I think at least one of them is a standalone unit as they were optional fit early on.
  19. Not a lot of difference between seatboxes, I have a TD5 box in my 109, had to notch the battery tray side to clear the chassis. You will have to modify the box & tunnel & bulkhead whatever you do, a Defender seat box won't really help much. The p38 gearbox will be all sorts of wrong - odd concentric clutch release, different clutch, different transfer box which nothing else fits (see the odd back end on your picture? That only mates to a P38 transfer box). This is the Disco to Defender shifter adapter: https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/r380-rebuild-kits/selector-rail-adapter-yolk.html
  20. Blue smoke is burning oil - has it had the PCV filter changed ever?
  21. A proper serpentine V8 is usefully shorter (and simpler), and you can gain quite a lot of space at the front by trimming the rad panel. My V8 is set a fair way back but there's space a plenty should you need it: With the rad & fans in place there's still tonnes of space:
  22. I can believe that for many systems, including the older ones prior to Terrain Response where it didn't know what surface you were on and therefore couldn't make smart choices about how to behave, and I can well believe that once everyone "knows" that ETC doesn't work in sand & pulls the fuse, that's what they'll do forever no matter the vehicle. It may well be that just pulling the fuse is as good as anything anyway, especially if the local spec stuff has factory lockers (which some did). Interestingly, Tom Sheppard in his more recent book was trucking about the desert in a G-Wagen which has as much articulation as a shopping trolley but does have a rear locker, and if anyone knows sand driving it's him.
  23. Yes but they're rare as rocking horse poo, although Keith Gott might've had some. That still leaves you with an adapter plate to the V8 and potentially oddly positioned engine or gearbox, at least with stock V8 bits you can use stock V8 clutch, exhaust down-pipes to Y piece & mounting on the transfer box mount, etc. The V8 bellhousings are ~30cm long (ISTR LT77 is ~310mm, R380 is ~285mm) which gives the same overall length of gearbox + bellhousing for each.
  24. V8 Defenders had various gearboxes but you can either get a genuine LT77 with V8 bellhousing, or far more common (easy to find) would be the LT77 or R380 from a Disco or RR with a kit from Ashcrofts to fit the Defender shifter housing and put the gearstick in the right place. Or get Ashcrofts etc. to build you a box to spec. The only issue is length - in an 88 the 5-speed + LT230 combo is very long and leads to a very short rear prop, unless you push the engine forwards. May be teaching you to suck eggs but the different variants for different engines had different bellhousings & input shaft lengths so it's not just swapping bellhousings around, you need the right box. Here's my V8 + R380 + LT320 in a 109:
  25. Don't modern LR products have a specific sand setting? Can't believe that's useless on sand, although I can well imagine less well developed systems would be. As ever, understanding how the system works & the limitations that brings is helpful, but no-one's got time for thinking
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