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FridgeFreezer

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. The butterfly / throttle stop is not the bypass screw is not the idle air valve... Throttle butterfly should be closed when your foot's not on the pedal. If you have stepper motor drive I'd be setting the bypass screw quite low but not sure of the guidance on that. If you're not using the stepper I'd set the bypass screw to hit a reasonable idle when warm.
  2. Individually they're bullet connectors but cast in a block like that I've no idea.
  3. Ashcrofts have a gear ratio calculator on their website, but there's every chance a 3.9 will pull 33's with a 1.2 transfer box quite happily - it depends what you're doing though, if you want relaxed motorway cruising or more torque off the line towing heavy loads etc. I'd run it and see what you feel like - if it feels like it's revving too high on the motorway then it's an easy & cheap swap.
  4. As smallfry says, the V8 went in front of many gearboxes, the late R380 being preferable all else being equal. If you leave the LT230 where it is and work forward, you'll need to fabricate or buy new engine mounts & position accordingly. 1.4:1 LT230 is liveable with a V8 but it'll be revving higher than needed if you're on normal size tyres, a 1.2:1 ratio (Disco/RR) might be better. It may be stating the obvious but you'll need a high-pressure fuel pump for the EFI as well as a bit of wiring etc. depending on what you're doing.
  5. Whistle/whine I'd suggest turbo boost leak, alternator, or PAS pump. The alternator on the ambulance whines quite loudly if the split-charge switches in with a very low 2nd battery.
  6. I haven't found one yet - there's free electronics schematic programs like KiCad but they don't easily allow some of the stuff you want for a car diagram. Best bet is something like Inkscape IMHO.
  7. Well, the best way is to put a proper blade fusebox in - there' some compact 4 or 8-way ones that would work - it's nice to separate out a few things, and LR don't fuse the lighting circuits because glass fuses can't handle the current
  8. Yeah I've used jacks & stands (ambulance weighs ~2.8t) & engine cranes on it, hammered on stuff on the floor, dragged stuff across it... the only thing that's dented it in a couple of places is hammering on the end of a bar/tube with the other end on the floor or dropping something really heavy & pointy - but honestly it's stuff that would've damaged concrete too. Plus the ability to sweep up easily, clean up spills rather than have them soak in, and roll things on wheels so easily is just great. Also it's brighter and easier to find that m6 nut you just dropped... That was HD levelling screed from Jewson, and epoxy floor paint from Ask Coatings. My garage build thread: putting screed down, and painting the floor. Oh and another thing I just spotted in my garage thread is to run a bit of plastic duct in through the base for the electrics etc. before you pour the slab, makes life easier & neater. I got some ~3" corrugated duct (smooth lined, very important!) and ran it from the edge of the house (where the power was going to come from) under the garden and up through the slab at a convenient point for the fusebox etc. - currently got a power feed and a long network cable to a cheap wifi repeater for uninterrupted tunes / surfing for manuals etc. in the garage. A couple more floor paint glory shots
  9. I can't believe no-one's going to step in and manufacture / re-manufacture replacements, there's millions of vehicles out there with those boxes and they're going to be around for decades yet. Edit: The article doesn't really explicitly say they're stopping production, just that they're stopping delivering them to Land Rover.
  10. There's horror stories for every vehicle and every part - always someone who's had a couple of bad experiences or thinks something (usually whatever they've got in their truck, coincidentally) is the best thing in the world ever. I've run all manner of stuff that people on the internet have told me will be awful and explode and be useless and unreliable and so far they've all been great in fact the best thing I've run was my 1800 Freelander which is a vehicle that gets just about the most hate / worst reputation possible! I really doubt that I can be so exceptionally lucky, after all my lottery numbers still haven't come up There's a lot of stuff people like to point at and deride as being terrible engineering but they forget that every nut and bolt on a modern car has thousands of hours of R&D and testing / optimisation behind it and often there's 50 reasons for it to be that way despite the 1 or 2 reasons you think it's stupid.
  11. Current Top Gear magazine have a feature on the Defender, they seem to like it well enough.
  12. Heavy-duty self-levelling latex screed is only ~£30 a bag and leaves a beautifully smooth surface - even nicer if you epoxy paint it too. Best thing I ever did in my garage!
  13. It does OK, was never supposed to be an articulation monster - I've got Gon2Far front mounts (visible here) but keep forgetting to unlock them The length of the shocks was mostly down to what could fit in the available space and work with the Volvos - the rear mounts give you space for ~14" of shock travel and using turrets on the front allowed it to be the same both ends, although the shorter front leaves on Series are the limiting factor - I think @ToyRoverlander has extended his front hangers to fit rears on the front or possible some other spring (Transit?).
  14. I'll remember that - friends live just outside Veliko Tarnovo in a village in the hills and we're keen to do a road-trip over to see them one of these years
  15. Volvo front suspension, standard mounts are welded to the axle casing; You can see it nearest the camera here (no shock fitted): Volvo rear suspension - the shock mount (28) bolts to the bottom of the portal box; This sort of shows the tub - the covers are a lot bigger than the really need to be;
  16. That does sound weak, although the VCU gets weaker in cold temperatures as it relies on the slip heating the fluid and locking. By contrast, mine nearly locked solid in the Bosnian summer (40+ degC). I'm not sure what, if anything, you can do about it. Also, where in Bulgaria are you? It's a lovely country and I really want to go back, maybe even to do some off-roading.
  17. I don't really see how that's any more relevant than any other part of a modified vehicle failing? Tonnes of stuff has UJ's in the front, it's not any more or less safe, just that CV's give smoother feel through the steering.
  18. Doing nothing is also an option, it's not critical. I believe @Jon White runs full-time 4x4 on Series axles with no problem.
  19. But we are planning some more local stuff - a weekend in the west country .
  20. Nah, I can confirm that trailer is cursed - I've TWICE arrived home with a vehicle on a flatbed and that trailer on 3 wheels because a bearing went... once was just after having it serviced too!
  21. Nope, didn't imagine it - from "Land Rover File 65th Anniversary Edition" by Eric Dymock;
  22. Booking close at midnight tonight - looks like a good turnout so far which is bl**dy typical I've gotta miss it! Also Miketomcat has been instructed to sell all the club mugs at knock-down prices to clear some space in the trailer
  23. Just to throw the Labrador into the squirrel enclosure; If you're not doing many miles a V8 would make it far nicer to drive at the expense of some fuel money. For an '86 110 it would've been a factory option. Something 3.9 or bigger with EFi would haul a 110 around in a low-stress manner and probably even nudge 20mpg if you are reserved... might even put a smile on your face too
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